So... A CSync cable from Retro Gaming cables made the issue worse...nam9 wrote:JVC X'EYE (NTSC 60Hz RGB Scart): Picture is stable at the top; flashing at the bottom with a steady transition.
Any thoughts?
On the X'EYE is this a sync issue? I first need to check the cable to see if it is wired for CSync or Composite video.
Hey thanks for the offer! I think I may just keep it for parts though, because the power interface socket has gone bad on it. Games will randomly reset every minute or so, and I found out that was the cause after Googling for some time. It can be helped/improved by jamming a shim in there with the power supply, but it doesn't get rid of the problem completely. I remember pissing off some Nintendo fanboys with the news while they were busy masturbating over the claim that the N64 had NO functionality issues and was indestructible. They first attacked me for not knowing what I was talking about, and then refused to respond further when I posted the link to the thread documenting the issue.jamisonia wrote:FBX, if you're looking to get your green N64 RGB Modded, I would install the kit for free.
C'mon now, we all know that the Gamecube is the indestructible one, not the N64. Silly fanboys.FBX wrote: I remember pissing off some Nintendo fanboys with the news while they were busy masturbating over the claim that the N64 had NO functionality issues and was indestructible. They first attacked me for not knowing what I was talking about, and then refused to respond further when I posted the link to the thread documenting the issue.
Mine does that, drives me nuts. Might have to try jamming a toothpick in there.FBX wrote:Hey thanks for the offer! I think I may just keep it for parts though, because the power interface socket has gone bad on it. Games will randomly reset every minute or so, and I found out that was the cause after Googling for some time. It can be helped/improved by jamming a shim in there with the power supply, but it doesn't get rid of the problem completely. I remember pissing off some Nintendo fanboys with the news while they were busy masturbating over the claim that the N64 had NO functionality issues and was indestructible. They first attacked me for not knowing what I was talking about, and then refused to respond further when I posted the link to the thread documenting the issue.jamisonia wrote:FBX, if you're looking to get your green N64 RGB Modded, I would install the kit for free.
Index cards or an old credit card work pretty well. I might take the thing apart and see if I can service it myself.Thamiel wrote: Mine does that, drives me nuts. Might have to try jamming a toothpick in there.
Oh yeah, 3DO would be cool too.Malin wrote:Great idea with the labels, any chance of one for the Neo Geo?
What I will probably do is have the adhesive on the sides and leave the middle clean. Here is a crude mockup using cardboard and sticky tapeRGB32E wrote:The labels look pretty nifty, but wouldn't the middle part be creased along the clamshell hinge as that side isn't completely flat? I suppose you could trim off the hinge to make that side flat though.
Malin wrote:Great idea with the labels, any chance of one for the Neo Geo?
Ask and you shall receive!pyrotek85 wrote:Oh yeah, 3DO would be cool too.
Looking good thus far! Perhaps make them a little smaller so there's about 2 or 3 mm of black plastic showing around the edges? It would give it a nice professional look I think.enigmaxtreme wrote:
Isn't it advised to just use one or the other?Ed Oscuro wrote:I think they should indicate the underlying pinout - JP21/RGB21 or SCART.
That's what I heard too. I gotta replace the one JP21 that I've got once I get a switch for all of them.enigmaxtreme wrote:Isn't it advised to just use one or the other?Ed Oscuro wrote:I think they should indicate the underlying pinout - JP21/RGB21 or SCART.
If cables are built so that only the used pins are present, it's pretty easy to tell the difference. E.g. Pins 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 would not be present on a RGB 21 cable. That's how the SHVC-010 and the SCPH-1050 Official RGB21 cables are constructed, and is what I tend to do when building my own cables.enigmaxtreme wrote:Isn't it advised to just use one or the other?Ed Oscuro wrote:I think they should indicate the underlying pinout - JP21/RGB21 or SCART.
Changed any sync settings from default? It has been my experience with the AES that you get consistent sync results by modding the system to route CXA1145 pin 11 instead of pin 10 to 8DIN pin 7 output.Blit wrote:Hi All,
I have recently updated the FrameMeister from firmware 1.11 to 2.0. With the GameCube and Nec PC-FX things are fine as before. But for e.g. the NeoGeo has an issue with randomly dropping the sync which was never the case with the 1.11 firmware. My NeoGeo Scart cable uses C-Sync (pin 7). Any clues and/or similar experiences?
Br,
Blit
That's a cool idea. I have mine labeled with basic rectangular yellow stickers with text on them. Gotta love diecutters, though.enigmaxtreme wrote:
Well, mate, when you've got 11 RGB consoles on one entertainment system, and only one 8-input SCART switch, it can be super helpful to only have to look at the SCART end itself to know which plug you're holding, especially when the wiring is routed to be as unobtrusive as possible.Pasky wrote:I mist be the only guy that just looks at the plug...lol
For whatever reason, the X-RGB Mini is losing the sync signal. This could be because of a bad cable, though I'm really thinking there is a problem with your console. The NTSC official RGB cables use Composite Video as Sync; try running composite video into the Mini and see if you still get video flickering issues.chojinosaka wrote:Hi, I have a questions.
I am connecting my Super Famicom via official Japanese RGB Cable to the framemeister and the picture is awsome.
However the screen gets black (the connection breaks off) every couple of minutes. The picture comes back after a second or so but keep loosing the screen for a second while playing is a nightmare.
I have tried different HDMI cables and 2 different screens. The Framemeister Firmware is the latest.
Would be great if somebody could help...
I am thinking about buying a Framemeister for SNES and wanted to understand your profiles. My understanding is that the 4x uses 896 pixels of height and the 5x uses 1120 pixels of height (effectively cutting of 40 pixels on a 1080p display resulting in 8 lost pixels from SNES). This is all good and I love the fact that both options are scaled with integers which results in every SNES pixel corresponding to exactly 4 or 5 pixels on the 1080p display.FBX wrote:Unfortunately it is very tedious, but Artemio's 240p Test Suit on the Genesis for example was a huge help in showing me where I needed to align the picture to the graphics:Tomdominer wrote:Hey FBX,
Is there a guide to creating these profiles? I guess you need the exact output from the console / game and then use the scale values to enlarge them the right amount of times to get some sort of multiple of 1080p? The problem is that I find the XRGB "zoom / scale" menus totally counter intuitive. Also, it takes so long to actually see the picture that zooming by hand takes FOREVER.
I was hoping to try my hand at creating a profile for "Saturn High-Ten Bomberman", which in ten player mode goes into some sort of progressive widescreen signal. Also, creating some saturn profiles in general would be good!
Any pointers on how to calculate what all the settings should be would be greatly appreciated.
1. In using the Visual_Set functions to align the masking, I used Artemio's grid test patterns for 320 and 256, which show the edge of the active graphics in red. Pressing the C-button lights up the overscan area, and this let me know how close I was getting to completely blocking it out. This part was even more tedious because the Framemeister has to blank and repost the video after each adjustment of the H & V Widths and well as the H & V Positions. So it took an hour or so of fine-tuning these settings to a perfect border mask.
2. Once I got the Visual_Set functions perfectly set to the edges of the Genesis graphics, then I had to experiment with different combinations of Zoom_Size and Zoom_Overscan until the scaling was perfect. For that, Artemio's vertically scrolling grid let me know when I nailed the perfect 4x. Now thankfully the Framemeister updates these adjustments on-the-fly, but because the combinations required to nail integer-perfect scaling are pot luck, it becomes much like trying to crack a combination lock. You just keep trying different combinations until that scrolling grid shows zero scaling artifacts, and that's when you know you nailed it. Further confirmation of 4x-perfect scaling can be done by turning Zoom off and checking Smart_2x. If the picture takes up the same vertical space as Smart_2x, you know you're at 4x 240p. For this, I used pieces of tape on my TV screen that marked the exact vertical borders of Smart_2x, and those tape markers acted as guide posts when I would try to dial in the Zoom settings.
3. Lastly comes aspect correction. For both square pixels and TV, I would use a tape measure and write down in inches the vertical size of the 4x image. Then I would use simple math to determine how many inches wide the image should be based on that vertical measurement. Then I would adjust Zoom-Width until the horizontal was at the correct aspect ratio. For 5x, I would multiply the 4x measurements by 1.25 and adjust Zoom-Width accordingly.
Anyway, the main thing to remember when wanting to do integer-perfect scaling 1080p profiles is to check vertical scroll either in a test rom or in a game that features it. It should be liquid smooth if properly scaled.
