You can't connect a Game Boy Player to a Wiimatrigs wrote:well there is idd.
if the gc component cables just wouldn't cost as much as a used wii.

The difference in image quality is much smaller than I thought it would be.
You can't connect a Game Boy Player to a Wiimatrigs wrote:well there is idd.
if the gc component cables just wouldn't cost as much as a used wii.
that's true, but for some reason the Wii signal just doesn't scale well on most processors....You can't connect a Game Boy Player to a Wii
The difference in image quality is much smaller than I thought it would be.
Well... don't forget about a modified GCN component cable (component -> RGBHV conversion)! Yes, the GCN component cables are expensive (though I'm sitting on 6+ new ones)!ZellSF wrote:You can't connect a Game Boy Player to a Wiimatrigs wrote:well there is idd.
if the gc component cables just wouldn't cost as much as a used wii.
The difference in image quality is much smaller than I thought it would be.
In those screenshots, the blurriness is apparent, but as Fudoh said - it doesn't upscale well. Also, the output looks 'dirty' - I don't know how else to explain it. But your right, the cost difference is tremendous. I got a "deal" on Cube YUV cables years ago. They seem to go for much more now surprisingly.ZellSF wrote:matrigs wrote:well there is idd.
The difference in image quality is much smaller than I thought it would be.
http://www.gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id= ... odigitalavFudoh wrote:Ever compared transcoded YUV from the Cube to RGBHV from a modified cable ? I was wondering if there's an advantage in using a modified cable, maybe for color resolution reasons ?
I suppose modding the component cable is primarily useful when trying to connect the GCN to a monitor that doesn't accept component for 31kHz/480p, or where a scaler does a better job with RGB than component. IIRC, in most cases RGBHV ends up resulting in better PQ because the signal isn't being treated as video (reason 2).sent as 4:2:2 YCrCb component.
Fudoh wrote:Phil, here you go:
Original layout:
top row:
20 RGB (B) = light blue cable
18 GND (B) = connected to Pins 21, 17, 13
bottom row:
21 GND = cable shielding
19 RGB (G) = light green cable
17 GND (G) = connected to Pin 18
15 RGB (R) = pink cable
13 GND (R) = connected to shield from (B) Coax
09 Sync = yellow cable
07 GND (V) = connected to shield from (G) Coax
05 Audio (R) = thin red cable
03 GND (Audio) = connected to shield from (R) Coax
01 Audio (L) = thin white cable
Mod to the following:
- remove all GND wires, all interconnects and those from the Coax lines.
- light blue cable - remove from Pin 20, solder to Pin 07
- light green cable - remove from Pin 19, solder to Pin 11
- yellow cable - remove from Pin 09, solder to Pin 20
- thin red cable - remove from Pin 05, solder to Pin 02
- thin white cable - remove from Pin 01, solder to Pin 06
rewire GND wires like this:
- (R) coax shielding - solder to Pin 13
- (G) coax shielding - solder to Pin 09
- (B) coax shielding - solder to Pin 05
- bridge 21, 18, 17 and bridge any of the video coax shieldings to the audio ground (Pin 04).
the difference between Meister Mode and Picture Mode + SCanlines is that Meister has the higher LPF, so you lose more details, but gain smoother color gradiants in dithered areas.my nes looks so much better in 720p frame meister mode compared to 1080p game mode 1 / 2 / picture (even better than 720p picture mode + scanlines tbh, but thats just my opinion).
no, 100% the same.Is there a image quality difference between :
- A Nintendo D-Terminal Gamecube cable
- A D-Terminal to component adapter cable + a Nintendo Component Gamecuble cable ?
Perhaps. When I did my NES RGB mod a few months ago I didn't amplify the sync signal, and as the PPU got warmer I got more and more video dropouts.Zapf wrote: On a related note, is it possible for heat to affect the image quality of an nes rgb mod? I feel like the jailbars / image quality was worsening over the span of 10 minutes switching back and forth between modes - perhaps its just in my head?
Weird... I've always had my RGB-NES with buffer circuits for RGBS and have had mine running for 4+ hours without having any issues crop up over time.Konsolkongen wrote:Perhaps. When I did my NES RGB mod a few months ago I didn't amplify the sync signal, and as the PPU got warmer I got more and more video dropouts.Zapf wrote: On a related note, is it possible for heat to affect the image quality of an nes rgb mod? I feel like the jailbars / image quality was worsening over the span of 10 minutes switching back and forth between modes - perhaps its just in my head?
Haven't tried the 4 channel THS yet?Konsolkongen wrote:Hey, this was before I added anything for the sync line. Now that I use an NJM amp (like yours) for my sync everything is perfectFor RGB I use the THS-amp.
Ok I know this is an old post, but I have done this to remove flickering on certain colors. You are right, though, and it makes other colors flicker instead. So if I get rid of the flickering on the blue background of Super Mario Bros for NES, it will show up in, for example, a brown background in another game.Fudoh wrote:I don't see it with my SFC. Have you manually adjusted the A/D conversion level on the Mini ? If you have the flicker on light blue backgrounds changing the A/D level by 2-4 steps might be enough to fix it. The flicker might move to more magenta-ish areas though. Give it a try.
A/D level can only go so far. I take it that you're picking up noise from the system, cable, and/or particular RGB mod implementation? Do you have any sources that don't have this issue?Hamburglar wrote:Ok I know this is an old post, but I have done this to remove flickering on certain colors. You are right, though, and it makes other colors flicker instead. So if I get rid of the flickering on the blue background of Super Mario Bros for NES, it will show up in, for example, a brown background in another game.
Am I doomed to adjusting A/D level the rest of my life for each and every game I play?
It shows up in everything; SNES model 1 (even the 1 chip one), RGB modded AV Famicom, RGB modded SNES 2, etc.RGB32E wrote:A/D level can only go so far. I take it that you're picking up noise from the system, cable, and/or particular RGB mod implementation? Do you have any sources that don't have this issue?Hamburglar wrote:Ok I know this is an old post, but I have done this to remove flickering on certain colors. You are right, though, and it makes other colors flicker instead. So if I get rid of the flickering on the blue background of Super Mario Bros for NES, it will show up in, for example, a brown background in another game.
Am I doomed to adjusting A/D level the rest of my life for each and every game I play?
If you think that, why are you getting a Framemeister at all?Those composite picture's from GregI don't look bad at all to me either, so that or S-Video might even be a backup option.
I opened my second SNS and found that it has the expected RGB encoder (BA6596F). What are the serial numbers of each? I'm curious to know what ranges use the BA6595F (S-RGB) and BA6596F (S-RGB A)! Also, while taking a look at this post over on nfggames I noticed that pin 7 (CSYNC) is the input pin, and not a buffered output. I suppose this should work fine to use though IIRC (it's been years since I RGB modded my other SNS)? Maybe I'll try using YOUT instead for pin 3! :pHamburglar wrote:I have three SNES model 2's and as we know the model 2's have the BA6596F. Well I opened all of them up today and I found one of them does not have the BA6596F! In fact, it has one I never heard of before:
What the....???
Have you tried more than one particular model of NTSC Playstation? I encountered issues with particular NTSC playstation models... not all, but some revisions wouldn't display correctly, while others would! Do you have more than one model to try? My 5501 didn't work, but others did! A sync stripper fixes the issue I had though.ZellSF wrote:Definitely don't upgrade to 1.06 if you own a PAL PS2, it broke NTSC PSX game video output here. Good thing the firmware downgrade/upgrade process is so straightforward.