XRGB-mini Framemeister

[anticipating]

No luck with DVI mode ?

Well it makes the DVI LED light up but besides that nothing. Also I got the Input LED to light up by pressing the input button a few times, but still no picture :'-(

Do you have any other monitor to try out? Maybe the unit is defective?

Nothing else with an HDMI port no... but all three HDMI ins on the tv work fine with my pc and ps3, so it shouldn't be that. Of course if the framemeister had a vga out it would help determine if it is an hdmi problem...

I was afraid it might be a faulty unit... I just wanted to ask first to make sure I wasn't missing something.

Still, it did arrive much sooner than I was expecting it to, so I guess having to send it back won't be as bad as it could have been if I was waiting like, 3 or 4 weeks. Oh well.

[BuckoA51]

Good thing about Euro SCART is it has the 5-12V pin attached.

Eeep just noticed this, DO NOT RELY ON THIS, especially on games consoles, I've had switches that auto switch based on detecting this voltage and they are very hit and miss with the nonstandard SCART outputs from retro stuff. Yeah I know there has to be a certain amount of voltage there to force the TV to switch to RGB but it cannot be depended upon for powering anything at least not in my experience.

[Retro Access]

Good thing about Euro SCART is it has the 5-12V pin attached.

Eeep just noticed this, DO NOT RELY ON THIS, especially on games consoles, I've had switches that auto switch based on detecting this voltage and they are very hit and miss with the nonstandard SCART outputs from retro stuff. Yeah I know there has to be a certain amount of voltage there to force the TV to switch to RGB but it cannot be depended upon for powering anything at least not in my experience.

I don't think there's a problem with (most?) North American consoles. From what I can see they always have 5V output from the socket which is connected directly to the 5V line running round the console which all the ICs in the system take their voltage from. The consoles with 12V out are mostly EU, and have a dedicated line for switching to 4:3, which is probably too low current to run things reliably. Of course, I'm going to test everything works fine, but as long as you use correctly rated power supplies there should be enough power for an extra amp circuit. The circuit is very simple.

I've sold many dedicated amp in a cable for PC Engines and they all use the 5V line to power the ICs in the amp. Never had a problem.

I have most consoles that people would be likely to use right here in my house so anything I supply is going to come with a compatibility list and recommendation for using correct power supplies. If anyone has a problem I'll release another version which takes the power in from the XRGB Mini supply. This will be more expensive though and I like to keep things affordable. I'm not well off myself, the Mini I have would not even have been a consideration if it wasn't essential for troubleshooting the things I sell.

[BuckoA51]

Well, going by the Sync Strike I'd say about, hmm, 75% of the time I can power it from the SCART, the rest of the time, nope no dice. My PC Engine is one that definitely wont, I guess the amp sucks too much of the current for itself?

[Retro Access]

Well, going by the Sync Strike I'd say about, hmm, 75% of the time I can power it from the SCART, the rest of the time, nope no dice. My PC Engine is one that definitely wont, I guess the amp sucks too much of the current for itself?

What consoles are you having problems with specifically?

I've never had any issues running simple IC video amps off the output, every console has a higher rated power supply than it actually needs, the third party ones are the ones that cause issues.

You are running an amp based scart from pce into sync strike? I don't know the exact circuitry of sync strike and how that would cause issues, but it probably has more components than a single LM1881 circuit, I'm not sure?

I can't really speak for other supplier's cables sadly, I know mine all work with externalised amps.

Anyway I'll have more answers later today, the buffer circuitry I built was already working on 3 systems, I just need to run the whole lot through the paces.

[Fudoh]

My PC Engine is one that definitely wont, I guess the amp sucks too much of the current for itself?

I can power a LM1881 from a PCE directly, but not from an interface unit. This said (after weeks of testing and modding), the PCE does not need a LM1881 to work on the Mini, but it needs stabilized power for the booster...

[Retro Access]

My PC Engine is one that definitely wont, I guess the amp sucks too much of the current for itself?

I can power a LM1881 from a PCE directly, but not from an interface unit. This said (after weeks of testing and modding), the PCE does not need a LM1881 to work on the Mini, but it needs stabilized power for the booster...

Super CD ROM 2 doesn't have +5V on the usual output pin IIRC, I do remember having to do something with that system last time I modded one, but it's hazy. I do remember the output would not switch a scart TV to RGB. Is this the one you use? What's on that pin exactly?

White PC engine I tried needed an amp on the video line, but I was using composite not sync, I still have to try that.

[BuckoA51]

I'm fairly certain my Atari Jaguar didn't work either, also Saturn but that was probably due to a poor SCART cable at the time (although, said cable still worked with the TV).

My PC Engine is a Supergrafx, I've a Turbo Duo too, neither of them would work, never been able to get either of them working on the XRGB3, frustratingly, so could be a dodgy mod in both.

Edit - Yep - Jaguar, PC Engine and RGB modded japanese N64 don't work on the Sync Strike without an external PSU being attached. SNES, MD, CD32, Saturn all do. Could just be the cables I'm using of course.

[Fudoh]

Moosmann should have the neccessary PCE mods online within the next week(s). After those all PCE units should work fine with both the XRGB-3 and the Mini.

I'm using a IFU-30-based PCE - that's the grey interface unit which connects classic PCEs to CD drives. The 5V power inside the IFU is fluctuating too much to properly power a LM1881. This will cause massive dropouts on the Mini.

[Retro Access]

The real answer is of course, I'll just supply two versions of the adaptor.

The one that takes 5V from SCART will work on the huge majority of common consoles and it should be all most people need. I'll admit to not owning a Jaguar to check. I'll have a compatibility list for a basic model today.

[BuckoA51]

Moosmann should have the neccessary PCE mods online within the next week(s).

Please do let me know when that happens, the RGB from my Supergrafx is pretty poor (ghosting etc), even when used with a more tolerant scaler, so any improvement would be good.

[Retro Access]

Moosmann should have the neccessary PCE mods online within the next week(s).

Please do let me know when that happens, the RGB from my Supergrafx is pretty poor (ghosting etc), even when used with a more tolerant scaler, so any improvement would be good.

I'll be testing some IC based amps today to makes sure they work with the adaptors I'm making as well as what's best compatible with the Mini.

[Fudoh]

will do ! On the PCE we had the best results with transistor based boosters, not IC based ones.

[TurboCro]

Did another Neo-Geo AES, 3-6 board (180k serial). Cut the traces. RGB quality is good, but i notice a little more blur in motion than in the earlier revisions (other one is a 70k serial). Also interesting, I get dropouts if used through the Selecty21. No dropouts if connected directly.

[shaurz]

Anyone tried capturing the HDMI output of the Framemeister? I'm trying to capture with a Blackmagic Intensity Pro but it doesn't detect any signal when I plug it in. I've tried different resolutions but all I get is black.

[Retro Access]

will do ! On the PCE we had the best results with transistor based boosters, not IC based ones.

Do you mean in terms of quality or compatibility?

I have a THS7314 amp running on it now, perfectly compatible and looks fine to me, can't see ghosting or any jailbars to speak of.

Not had time to do an NJM2267 amp to compare, anyway these are ones I fit into scart cables so I can try a transistor one later, need to put lots of capacitors in those and there's not much space. Just testing my DIY kits first as I can't have them not working on the Mini.

[Retro Access]

Anyone tried capturing the HDMI output of the Framemeister? I'm trying to capture with a Blackmagic Intensity Pro but it doesn't detect any signal when I plug it in. I've tried different resolutions but all I get is black.

I'd be very interested in peoples' findings re. this too, I would like to capture vids if i can. Um that might require actually owning something other than a Macbook Air.

[grahf]

will do ! On the PCE we had the best results with transistor based boosters, not IC based ones.

I can attest to this. I'm currently using a slightly tweaked version of the old transister based PCE amp (the one from the 90s Japanese gaming mag) that's been around on the net forever. I put it together "temporarily" with this amp, but the picture was so good I never bothered to finish my NJM2267 amp.

I do know that people have reported jail bars with the transistor amps, but there are none on the Mini. I don't have any analog RGB equipment to test it on right now. though.

I'm looking forward to seeing what Moosmann has come up with.

[Retro Access]

Tried the transistor amp. Saw really, really faint jailbars but only when I zoomed in on the image to a huge degree. This also happened with the THS IC amp, actually. I don't know if it's just my imagination but this seemed to get very slightly better when I used sync instead of composite video. However, it's not like it matters a damn unless you feel like playing your games in the zoom mode intended for PSP (obviously not.)

Anyway, both are compatible with XRGB Mini, through either composite or sync.

It's probably worth knowing but you can reduce jailbars in transistor amps by having the right placement of caps. However I'm not convinced it's necessary thanks to the Mini's filtering. I'll have to check all mods on the cheaper upscalers to see if they're even "there."

You can also improve the video a tad by branching a capacitor between +VCC and ground on the PPU. Bakuchiku's site has info on this. RGBs's a bit shaky otherwise.

[Shining]

4. Is it compatible with european power sockets without using a converter?

You could just get a quality +5VDC 3A AC adapter (wired correctly of course), and bypass the need for a stepdown. Have any of you guys in Europe found an AC adapter/power supply you like?

So i just ordered the Frame Meister from Solaris. Yay! But i'm having a hard time finding a cheap US power plug splitter for my step down converter in my country. So do you think this adapter will work without modification?

http://www.24.se/natadapter-230v-till-5 ... c-529.aspx
"100-240V AC 50/60Hz to 5V DC, 3A,
Polarity: plus in the middle,
plug inner/outer diameter 2,1/5,5mm"

[Fudoh]

The tip is too large. The Mini has a very small power connector. Kinda like the one one the top right on this picture here (or even the middle one):

[Fudoh]

I use this one as a replacement for many japanese PSUs:
http://www.conrad.se/?websale7=conrad-s ... ref=513002

[Retro Access]

It seems to be a 1.7 inner, 4.0mm outer plug.

2.1 inner, 5.5 outer will fit many upscalers and converters (SCART to YUV, RGBS to VGA board) but not the mini.

The part can be bought at Radioshack or Maplins if you do not fancy paying shipping on it. It should be included in variable voltage adaptors with changeable plugs (match/increase the required current.)

[Shining]

Great, thanks for the tip. I got this store just across the street that carries this:
http://www.kjell.com/sortiment/el/strom ... -ma-p44255
"100-240 V, 5VDC, 3A"

I guess that one will work too? I'll just have to make sure it has got the right tip.

[Konsolkongen]

It should. But you have to make sure that it outputs + and - on the right pins! For example if the Mini requires + on the center pin (I can't reach my PSU from here sorry...) then you mustn't do it the other way around.

I did this a while back on the SNES where I used a Master System PSU and soldered another plug on, and it immediately blew the fuse inside the SNES

[zak]

Does anyone else's up and down buttons not work on the unit itself? I can only navigate the menu with the remote right now

[TurboCro]

Did another Neo-Geo AES, 3-6 board (180k serial). Cut the traces. RGB quality is good, but i notice a little more blur in motion than in the earlier revisions (other one is a 70k serial). Also interesting, I get dropouts if used through the Selecty21. No dropouts if connected directly.

Interesting update. On the AES with the dropouts, I decided to do some testing. I hooked up an s-video cable at the same time as rgb to see if i could replicate the same symptoms (in addition to the dropouts you can see interference in the picture). Once I hooked up the s-video cable to the Mini, the rgb output was perfect with no dropouts. Could this mean the problem is a bad ground somewhere?

[Fudoh]

if you connect two video cables at the same time you're changing the output termination. It's like adding a resistor to the RGB cable.

[Konsolkongen]

If anyone needs a nice Scart switcher this thing works very well:
http://www.computeruniverse.net/product ... +switchbox

I'm using it at the moment to connect my Neo Geo CD and Supergun to my Extron RGBHV Matrix which then again connects to my XRGB-Mini. No quality loss at all. I am using high quality cables for my NGCD, Supergun and a very high end one at only 0.5m to connect the switcher to my Extron. But if the switcher box was rubbish it should show right away.

[Shining]

So my FM arrived this weekend and i spent some time trying out Wii and NES om my 55" LED. Still waiting for my RGB adapter from Retro Accesories to arrive. Oh, and the PSU i mentioned earlier works great. Thanks for the help.

Holy shit, NES is playable again! At 480p/720p it looks rather nice in Frame Meister mode with scanlines, sharpness 1 and H_scaler 5.

Wii over component looks... better but not great. I find Game 1 too blurry, and there is too much color boost using Game 2, so i use Picture. Setting H_scaler to 5 looks rather weird, almost too sharp, so i use H_scaler 7 which is slighly sharper than H_scaler 6. Sharpness 1. I'm having a hard time though getting nice scanlines on Wii no matter what output resolution i choose. Is there any way to adjust the scanlines manually, or am i limited to Frame Meister mode?

Oh, what do the H/V_Polarity settings do?

I'm sure Genesis/SNES/PC Engine will look gorgeous though