XRGB-mini Framemeister

[ChrisK1977]

I haven't found a single remote controlled HDMI switch in existence that allows you to disable auto switching, so unfortunately not much I can do on that end.

The ATEN VS0801HB has a little switch on the back that turns auto-switching on or off - the non-B version does not have it though. The included remote sucks, but it works fine with a Logitech Harmony.

Alternatively, try shuffling around the HDMI inputs on your switch - some use a priority system and switch away if a higher-priority input becomes active.

I appreciate the reply so much!

I tried shuffling around the HDMI ports and unfortunately it didn't help.

Buying a $300 ATEN VS0801HB just because the Framemeister doesn't know how to properly sleep is going to be a tough pill to swallow, but if no one has any other ideas I might have no choice.

[ChrisK1977]

So here's the fix I was able to accomplish for this. I had to order SEVEN DIFFERENT HDMI SWITCH BOXES to get this set up to work! Every single one of them, except for the last one, exhibited the following issue: it would show up as "active" to my auto-switching Monoprice HDMI switcher, even with the power off!

Basically I have an 8 port Monoprice HDMI switch for my setup. However, I finally exceeded 8 HDMI devices, and there aren't any HDMI switchers that have more than 8 ports. So my idea was to plug a 4 HDMI switch INTO input 8 on the Monoprice HDMI switch (essentially daisy-chaining them). So I would now be able to have 11 HDMI devices hooked up.

I also figured this would have the added benefit of the Framemeister not constantly sending an "on" signal to my Monoprice switch. This was the most annoying thing ever. Any time I rebooted a system, the damn thing automatically switched over to the port the Framemeister was plugged into. I figured with the 2nd 4 port HDMI switch powered off, the Monoprice switch would no longer constantly have an input that was always "on". I was extremely wrong!

Seven different 4 and 5 port HDMI switches STILL sent a signal to the Monorpice switch, even when the 4/5 port switch was powered off!

I kept returning them to Amazon over and over again, until FINALLY I found one that when powered off, it no longer sends a signal. It was this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08H83CSTL/

So now I have the Framemeister plugged into that. My Harmony is set to only turn that 4 port HDMI switch on whenever the proper device is selected. So no more annoying auto switching from the Monoprice switch.

This was such an immense amount of work just because the Framemeister doesn't properly know how to go to sleep, but at least I finally found a cheap workaround. So if anyone else is having this problem ever, this is the switch to get! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08H83CSTL/

Hope this helps someone else out with both the annoying Framemeister issue, AND the need for more HDMI ports!

[ChrisK1977]

I am having another weird issue with the Framemeister.

I am using a Logitech Harmony with my main gaming area setup (the Harmony with the LCD touch screen on it). Does anybody know why every time I activate "play Genesis" or "play snes" or anything that involves the Framemeister why it would be changing the display mode to some zoomed in mode? The command isn't doing anything other than turning the Framemeister on and changing the input to RGB. Yet if I do everything manually without the remote the screen always looks fine.

I like it set to Smart_x2 but every time I turn it on with the remote it goes to LB2

Also if I decide to start using Firebrand X's profiles, is there a way to get the profiles to be selected by the universal remote? So if I start the "play SNES" command, it will load the SNES profile? Or does that have to be done manually?

[jdawg131]

Does anyone have the Framemeister connected to a Hisense TV? I recently replaced an LG (can't remember the model off hand) with the H9G, and have been running into stuttering issues. It affects all resolutions (480p, 720p, and 1080p) and all of the systems that I've tested (Dreamcast, Genesis, PS2, and Saturn). I've been testing with the different Street Fighter II versions.

Dreamcast (1080p connected via SCART using a Toro box): Super Turbo (and Alpha 3)
Genesis (720p connected via RGB): Special Champion Edition
PS2 (720p connected via component): Hyper
Saturn (720p connected via RGB): Super Turbo

The systems are connected to the JP21 version of the gscartw switch before going into the Framemeister. The stuttering is terrible and makes the games almost unplayable. Special Champion Edition isn't as bad, and I think that it's due to the speed being slower. I didn't notice the stuttering while playing Dead or Alive 2 Hard*Core or Pro Evolution Soccer 4 on the PS2.

I've messed with the sync settings to no avail. It's almost like the Hisense H9G doesn't like the signal being sent from the Framemeister. I have another H9G in my main home theater setup, and have no issues when playing games. I've played NES (RetroUSB AVS), SNES (Analogue NT), Genesis (Analogue Mega SG), Xbox 360, Switch, PS4 Pro, and Xbox Series X games without issue. This includes multiple Street Fighter games.

I had no issues with the LG (other than average PQ). Is there a setting on the Framemeister that I'm missing? Or is it just a compatibility issue with the H9G?

[jdawg131]

I was able to resolve the judder issue by upgrading to firmware v2.04. Not sure what the issue was, but it seems like the sync wasn't actually locking when set to Auto like it's supposed to.

[stuminator]

I've recently acquired a Framemeister and have some weirdness going on with it.

Before getting this I've been using my Genesis, SNES, Saturn & PS1 with Euro SCART cables and an RGB-to-component converter for years with no issues. After trying all the systems out with the cables going directly into the Framemeister's RGB port, only the Genesis & SNES work properly.

So I tried running the Saturn & PS1 with the RGB-to-component converter, then into the Framemeister's component port, and voila, they work with no issues.

Anyone know what's causing problems with the direct RGB connection for the Saturn & PS1?

[Fudoh]

Either you simply have to adjust the sync level setting on the FM or it's a grounding issue. On a RGB cable you have many pins that can be wired for ground, but if your adapter (from RGB Scart to the FM's mini DIN) doesn't pick up GND from a populated pin on the Scart cable, you can be out of luck with this particular cable.

[darcagn]

It's been a fun ride, but today is exactly 8 years to the day I made my first post in this topic, and I just dropped my Framemeister off at the post office to be brought to a new home.

With the OSSC, MiSTer, and digital HDMI mods out now, I hadn't connected my Framemeister in far too long, so it was time to go. Especially with RetroTink 5X, OSSC Pro, etc. on the horizon.

The resale value on these things is pretty nuts. I thought I was crazy for paying $400 for it brand new back in 2013, but I got $700 for it now used.

[TooBeaucoup]

It's been a fun ride, but today is exactly 8 years to the day I made my first post in this topic, and I just dropped my Framemeister off at the post office to be brought to a new home.

With the OSSC, MiSTer, and digital HDMI mods out now, I hadn't connected my Framemeister in far too long, so it was time to go. Especially with RetroTink 5X, OSSC Pro, etc. on the horizon.

The resale value on these things is pretty nuts. I thought I was crazy for paying $400 for it brand new back in 2013, but I got $700 for it now used.

I got $500 for mine a few months ago. I'm sad I didn't ask for more. I didn't expect it to go so fast. LOL!

[Shuco13]

I did some tinkering this weekend with the XRGB Mini, PS3, Xbox 360, and HDMI Direct. The XRGB Mini does not properly pass 1080p signals. It constantly drops the signal. Tested both the PS3 and 360. After I switched both consoles to 720p, I haven't run into any issues.

I found some posts in this thread from 2 years ago about this issue. It looks the past few firmware updates didn't address it. It's not a major deal breaker as the vast majority of PS3 games are only 720p, but it is definitely disappointing.

Interesting, because my Framemeister works flawlessly with 1080p (HDMI Direct On) from 360, PS3 and even PS4.

Of course PS3 games are outputting always 720p signal, but on the main console interface it works perfectly on 1080p, also on long sessions of Netflix and YouTube -- always 1080p, without any drops.

Still on PS3, I'm playing Demon's Souls and scaling 720p to 1080p via Framemeister (of course I turn off HDMI Direct when I play this game or anytime I want the profile to take place) just to get a very slightly sharper scaling when comparing to my TV doing the 720p>1080p scale. Even made a simple profile for that, PS3SHARP.BIN -- it's great.

One more thing: maybe I don't experience any dropouts on the 1080p signal from these consoles (yes, 360 at 1080p works all the time, never any dropouts) because there's a HDMI splitter right before the XRGB HDMI input: one HDMI cable goes to the XRGB of course and the other to the capture card (Elgato HD60). The HDMI splitter is a cheap one but it's perfect, never had any problems: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ultra-HD-4K-2-P ... 2106340900

I have 2 of these, using for years, always capturing footage and playing with those on the system.

Another thing to note: I just got the Elgato HD60, but before I captured footage with the Blackmagic Intensity Shuttle USB, and this card captures on 720p@60 only. So, to capture PS4 *and* at the same time enjoy the game on 1080p on my TV, I connect the PS4 HDMI out to the HDMI splitter, then to XRGB which downscales the 1080p resolution to 720p which the Blackmagic can capture. It worked perfectly, I used this setup for about 3 years. This is the last video I did using this setup (The Last Guardian, which is native 1080p on PS4): https://youtu.be/5P1awApq4zg

(it's on portuguese, I'm linking just to check the quality)

Anyway, hope that something I said helps on any way Have a great day!

I bought a new TV and wanted to save money on a new HDMI switch so I went for the Framemeister's HDMI direct mode. Unfortunately I've been having no luck with the PS3's 1080p output. 720p/1080i however work. Has anybody found a solution to this problem (setting-wise) except adding another device/splitter in between? Thanks

[ZellSF]

I'm planning to maybe sell my XRGB-mini. I don't have the official PSU so I have two bad options (cheap options, anyway):

1) 5V @ 1.5A (PSP PSU)
2) 5.3V @ 3.5A

Opinions? I'm guessing 1) might overload the PSU and kill it over time and 2) might generate more heat in the XRGB-mini's voltage regulator possibly harming it over time. Or am I too concerned and neither is likely?

[Fudoh]

I guess the PSP one would be fine. On the other hand, if you're selling at current market value, can't you just order a matching one on Amazon? You can also get a USB to DC 4.0mm adapter cable, so you can use any USB charger with 2A.

[TheShadowRunner]

I'm planning to maybe sell my XRGB-mini. I don't have the official PSU so I have two bad options (cheap options, anyway):

1) 5V @ 1.5A (PSP PSU)
2) 5.3V @ 3.5A

Opinions? I'm guessing 1) might overload the PSU and kill it over time and 2) might generate more heat in the XRGB-mini's voltage regulator possibly harming it over time. Or am I too concerned and neither is likely?

1) is bad, not enough amps, original is 2.3A
2) is the better choice, +0.3 should be well within margins

[Shuco13]

Since the Framemeister's scanlines are a bit thin on 1080p output, does anybody have experience with running your input through an SLG3000 or SLG scart before going through the mini? I'm wondering whether that would improve the perceived scanlines somehow. I furthermore assume an all-digital scanline generator to be added to the output signal still doesn't exist?

[Gara]

Since the Framemeister's scanlines are a bit thin on 1080p output, does anybody have experience with running your input through an SLG3000 or SLG scart before going through the mini? I'm wondering whether that would improve the perceived scanlines somehow. I furthermore assume an all-digital scanline generator to be added to the output signal still doesn't exist?

Why not use 720p output with the Framemeister? 720p gives a more pleasing result with scanlines.

[Shuco13]

Because sharpness is better on 1080p.

[Guspaz]

Because sharpness is better on 1080p.

That isn't always desirable when using scanlines. In fact, I'd argue that it somewhat defeats the purpose of trying to recreate the look of a CRT. You need a certain amount of softness for scanlines to look like scanlines and not venetian blinds.

[fernan1234]

That isn't always desirable when using scanlines. In fact, I'd argue that it somewhat defeats the purpose of trying to recreate the look of a CRT. You need a certain amount of softness for scanlines to look like scanlines and not venetian blinds.

I absolutely hate scanline filters that just look like blinds, for sure. That's what you get with integer scaling. There are now several ways to make them look more like genuine CRT scanlines while preserving sharpness though. The polyphase scanlines recently introduced with the 5X are a very nice sweet spot. The OSSC's custom scanlines can do even better, basically letting you emulate the sharpest, razor-edge, but also brightness-variable scanlines of a 1000 TVL BVM (or even beyond that). But you can play with horizontal and vertical custom scanlines to get the softer look of a commercial 300 TVL CRT also.

[UAP]

Hi guys, I have the power button directly on the FM without function. is this normal? or a defect? The FM can only be switched on via the remote control. Regards

[strumm]

Hi,
I'm in the USA, and I use a Framemeister XRGB Mini to connect to my HDMI TV.

It works great with my NTSC C64, and both my NTSC and PAL C128.

But with my rev5 NTSC Amiga 500, and with a rev6a PAL Amiga 500, and a PAL Amiga 1200, I'm getting white horizontal banding. I'm using the RGB out from the Amigas with an RGB to Euro SCART cable. And then a Euro SCART input into the Framemeister.

I'm also getting electrical hum buzz in the audio.

here is a video of what I am seeing.
http://www.pydl.org/amiga/amiga.mov

I hope I received the correct SCART adapter with the Framemeister? If I have any picture at all, can I assume I received the Euro SCART and not the JP SCART adapter? There are no markings on the adapter? Is there an easy electrical test I could do?

Also, I'm wondering if a bad Amiga power supply could cause this?

Any help or direction to investigate would be appreciated.
thanks!!

[Smashbro29]

Today was a historic day for me, I sold my framemeister and shipped it off. I haven't used in over a year and better things are coming. It was fun, shoutouts to the legends like fudo and FBX see you in OSSC/RT 5X and beyond threads.

[strumm]

Hi,
I'm in the USA, and I use a Framemeister XRGB Mini to connect to my HDMI TV.

It works great with my NTSC C64, and both my NTSC and PAL C128.

But with my rev5 NTSC Amiga 500, and with a rev6a PAL Amiga 500, and a PAL Amiga 1200, I'm getting white horizontal banding. I'm using the RGB out from the Amigas with an RGB to Euro SCART cable. And then a Euro SCART input into the Framemeister.

I'm also getting electrical hum buzz in the audio.

here is a video of what I am seeing.
http://www.pydl.org/amiga/amiga.mov

I hope I received the correct SCART adapter with the Framemeister? If I have any picture at all, can I assume I received the Euro SCART and not the JP SCART adapter? There are no markings on the adapter? Is there an easy electrical test I could do?

Also, I'm wondering if a bad Amiga power supply could cause this?

Any help or direction to investigate would be appreciated.
thanks!!

So a new power supply fixed the bad video on all computers. But I'm still getting a humming sound on all computers in the RGB input.

[Fudoh]

I think there's an option to associate the front RCA audio inputs with the RGB picture. If any of your sources has a dedicated audio output, you could try that. This way you might be able to pinpoint the problem.

[strumm]

I think there's an option to associate the front RCA audio inputs with the RGB picture. If any of your sources has a dedicated audio output, you could try that. This way you might be able to pinpoint the problem.

Thanks!! I was able to find that option in Framemeister where the RGB A/V input uses the RCA audio inputs instead of the RGB audio input. That solved the problem completely!!

That means the problem is one of the following
1.) Bad Amiga RGB-Audio to SCART cable
2.) Bad Framemeister Euro-Scart to RGB adaptor cable
3.) Bad Framemeister RGB audio input.

But to be honest, since it works using the RCA inputs for audio, I'm good for now.

thanks again!

[Fudoh]

it's probably (1) because it's the longest cable in your setup and if it has unshielded wires running next to each other, the video can introduce that kind of hum into an audio signal.

[strumm]

it's probably (1) because it's the longest cable in your setup and if it has unshielded wires running next to each other, the video can introduce that kind of hum into an audio signal.

Ah, that makes sense. I found another guy that makes the combined cable with shielded wires, so I'll try that next.

thanks again!

[A Murder Of Crows]

hey guys

back for the first time in a bit and i've got some settings problems/questions.


Display Chain: Saturn (SCART) --> Sony BVM 1911 (RGBS) --> XRGB Mini (RGB In, HDMI Out) --> XCapture-1 HDMI In
Sega Saturn NTSC RGB using EURO SCART
XRGB-Mini with firmware 2.03 eng.
XCapture-1 using the modded/unsigned combo drivers.

XRGB Mini Settings:
OUTPUT_MODE: HDMI
HDMI_OUTPUT: 720_60 p
IMAGE_MODE: PICTURE
ASPECT_RATIO: AUTO
SCREEN_SET: NORMAL 2
COLOR_SET
-BRIGHTNESS: 21
-GAMMA: 14
-BLACK:0
-HUE: 45 (greyed out)
-SATURATION: 32 (greyed out)
-RED: 50
-GREEN: 50
-BLUE: 50
-SHARPNESS: 1
VISUAL_SET
-AUTO_SCALER: off
-H_SCALER: 4
-V_SCALER: 6
SYNC_SET
-SYNC_MODE: AUTO
-SYNC_TIME: 3
-SYNC_LEVEL: 27
-H_POLARITY: OFF
-V_POLARITY: OFF
HDMI_SET
-DeepColor: OFF
-OUTPUT_COLOR: RGB
-OUTPUT_RANGE: FULL
-(No other settings touched in HDMI_SET)
SPECIAL
-SCANLINE
-->SCANLINE: ON
-->INT_LINE: 0
-->INT_SMOOTH: 76
-->(All other SCANLINE settings are greyed out and at default)

My problem is that the scanlines look....wrong? it seems like every once in awhile the lines are extra "thick" or something, causing there to be some sort of pattern. Note the ref's shirt in the following screenshots.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OcM8e8 ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AcHAdW ... sp=sharing

the colors are also off but it is hard for me to explain how. best i could probably do is take a photo with my phone showing both side by side.

anyway, whatever is wrong with the scanlines is REALLY bothering me and stops be from enjoying my setup for capture or streaming.

I read that Firebrand only deals with 1080p profiles, and i have a specific need for using 720p at the moment, and i keep hearing that 720p is better for scanlines, but i can't get this dialed in.

Is there a good profile/settings page for 720p NTSC with CRT like scanlines for the Sega Saturn?

[Fudoh]

Regarding the scanline bug you're seeing: this sounds like a common problem the FE can exhibit with a few sources. It's most common with a Neo Geo as your source, but can show on other sources as well. The fix is to increase (or was it decrease?) the vertical size by one click (that's the V_WIDTH option). Give it a try!

BUT I have to say that I can't see it on your screenshots - are you sure that these are the right ones?

[jarop]

Question for the PS2 owners - I have two separate component to D-terminal cables (https://imgur.com/a/fqSMymW the one on the left is BRAND new) that are both not giving me any input... the comp cable itself is fine as i ran it straight into the TV, have mucked around with various settings on the FM and can confirm the D-terminal works because I run it through my Wii just fine. Anybody run into anything similar?

[Johnpv]

You probably have your PS2 set to RGB and not component.

You can try this to see if it fixes your issue.

Start up the PlayStation 2 without a game in it.
Wait about 20 seconds.
Press Down.
Press X.
Press Down three times.
Press X.
Press Left.
Press X.


I grabbed this from online but I think you also need to wait a second or two between pressing X and then doing the next thing (when ever you have press X)