XRGB-3

[Konsolkongen]

Have you checked the connectors on the GAME IN port? Perhaps the one carrying blue has been bent inwards or something :/

[kel]

Good point. I'll do a continuity check on the blue pin when I strip down the XRGB3 later.

[Konsolkongen]

If all fails try contacting Micomsoft directly. I did that when my XRGB-3 suddenly died and together with one of the engineers we isolated the problem to one of the IC's. The XRGB-3 has been working fine ever since

If you can't make it work you should still be able to route RGB cables through the D2 VGA input.

[edwinbradford]

I contacted Micomsoft too over a sound problem with my XSelect D4, they asked me to return it, confirmed it was faulty and sent me a replacement. Their English is minimal but they really put themselves out to help.

[kel]

If all fails try contacting Micomsoft directly. I did that when my XRGB-3 suddenly died and together with one of the engineers we isolated the problem to one of the IC's. The XRGB-3 has been working fine ever since

If you can't make it work you should still be able to route RGB cables through the D2 VGA input.

I haven't found the time to have a proper look at it yet but thanks for tip about the D2 VGA input, I had forgotten about that. Also If I don't manage to find out what the problem is then I will contact Micomsoft as you suggested and see if they can help.

[Loogs]

Hey folks,
I've had the XRGB-3 for about 2 years now, and I can't thank Fudoh enough for helping me immensely in the beginning through emails. I rarely play much anymore, but this particular problem has always driven me nuts.

I have always had an issue with my SNES and N64, which, when too much white or bright light is generated from a game on these 2 consoles, the signal strength causes the top-half of the screen to warp/buckle/flicker if you will, and in rare cases, "knock out" the picture. Now, I've got the same RGB amp in my N64 as I do my NES, which gives me no problems at all when it comes to this scenario. There are some standard caps in the SNES which boost the RGB signal, albeit even a bit too much, which causes this issue to happen more on the SNES.

The SNES and N64 share the same cable, which was created from a modified SCART cable. Perhaps there is something I need to do to this cable, put in some resistors?

I'm trying to make sense of all this and just eliminate this instability issue, as well as get the SNES signal boost just right (lower it a bit). If anyone can offer some insight or share experience/numbers, I'd be more than appreciative!

[Konsolkongen]

I hope you can find an easy solution to your problem. It's no fun playing without your XRGB-3 once you get used to it

[Kilmaattikahn]

Could this be the problem?

[Loogs]

Thanks for the suggestion, Kilmaattikahn, I actually stumbled on that bit of the wiki while looking for solutions. Through the assistance of a great friend, and fellow RGB fanatic, the problem has been pinpointed. Natively, the RGB signal is just fine across all systems, including the SNES, which show no distortion of any kind when connected directly to the XRGB-3. It turns out the system selector connecting all RGB consoles to the XRGB-3 is the cause.

Using an oscilloscope, we discovered that the SNES and N64 RGB signals natively clocked in between 300-500 mVolt, while other RGB systems were clocking in above that, some even above 1 V. The powered/amplified system selector tries to boost these signals to around 2 V during output, basically overdriving/overpowering those weaker SNES/N64 RGB signals, causing the instability where the RGB signal becomes the most intense (white, bright screens).

The solution is rather simple; implement a pot (potentiometer/variable resistor) on the sync line of the SNES and N64 RGB cables and adjust until the sweet spot eliminates all instability. I'm not sure if they exist already, but if not I will create a male/female RCA coupling with the pot soldered in the middle, which will just be placed on the end of the RCA sync for easy access and simple future changes if needed (versus internal resistor installation).

I have 2 similar system selectors, both System Selector Pro models by Pelican, their only decent products. The first style has no remote but 8 inputs, and causes no instability issues with RGB, yet has a weaker signal boost, causing RGB to appear darker/faded and requiring more setting changes. The later model w/LCD and remote has 6 inputs and is the one I use for RGB consoles. While it does cause this fixable issue, it has a stronger signal boost without any fading/color wash (basically looks as if directly connected) and requires no setting changes between consoles.

Anyone else employ higher-end amplified system selectors that use/swear by? Always looking for new/different selectors.

All the confusion stems from RGB not having an established "standard" across different consoles unlike composite and component, and is probably why these system selectors have various issues with RGB.

But damn't, the XRGB-3 will always be an enigma to me. The XRGB-2+ is simpler, seems to be less sensitive and more of a "plug-and-play" device that requires less attention, not to say the 2 don't have their pros and cons.

Sorry for writing a essay, hopefully this experience will perhaps be informative or be of interest to some of you!

RGB FOREVER!

[Konsolkongen]

The solution is rather simple; implement a pot (potentiometer/variable resistor) on the sync line of the SNES and N64 RGB cables and adjust until the sweet spot eliminates all instability.

Is this using pure sync or composite video?

[Loogs]

Is this using pure sync or composite video?

One RCA line is dedicated to just sync, nothing else, but ironically enough, so I know which is which, I have all RGB systems' sync on yellow "composite" RCA

Sorry if it's been brought up already, but it seems Micomsoft is preparing for a new XRGB? They're accepting users admissions on ideas and concepts for a new XRGB unit, no doubt it would be nice for HDMI output of course! What are your ideas?

[BuckoA51]

The screen blanking on bright white occurred for me even when feeding the console directly into the XRGB3. Only way I found to cure it was using pure sync, which cured it without fail in every instance and seems simpler than playing with pots.

[Loogs]

The screen blanking on bright white occurred for me even when feeding the console directly into the XRGB3. Only way I found to cure it was using pure sync, which cured it without fail in every instance and seems simpler than playing with pots.

Strange, I've never had that issue when connected directly. As noted, the issue is with the system selector. Until I find a comparable IR system selector/receiver w/6+ inputs, it is/was hardly a bother installing a basic inline pot.

Funny how finicky the XRGB-3 is, and it seems there is a variety of issues across the board, everyone is always experiencing something different. I guess I am truly lucky to not have to change even the most basic settings across all 6 consoles I have outputting RGB, they all produce a consistent & quality picture under the same settings (which are judged by direct S-video connection comparison). I would assume that is largely due to the powered system selector outputting a 'standardized-ish' signal to the XRGB-3.

[BuckoA51]

Nothing like a SCART switch to screw things up! Disconnecting the switch and going directly into TV/Monitor/XRGB3 is the first thing I always try

[catfish]

hello all, i'm a total beginner with the xrgb-3, i need some help to plug my supergun in it.
i'm using it with scart cable but i only got blinking on the screen, xrgb 3 seem to try to check the right signal between 15-30 and 45khz but never stop searching.
same with my 2 slots mvs.
i'm using the special scart cable to convert the signal to japanese, and i'n going out with vga cable.

if someone can give me hand, thanks in advance.

[Fudoh]

Maybe the Scart input is set to component instead of RGBs. Also use a PCB with a common standard refresh rate like 59,9-60,0Hz. MVS is so problematic, so it's best to start with something else.

[catfish]

ok i will only try first with common jamma system.
do you what kind of scart cable i should use for a supergun ?
neo geo aes,cd, megadrive do not work with my supergun...
another special rgb cart cable for the supergun of a friend do not work too..
i get realy confused about all that

[catfish]

does anybody know hoy to update the xrgb 3 on win7 64b ?
i've followed the turorial but the unit is not recongize by window and i can't update it when i launch tu updater.

[Fudoh]

neo geo aes,cd, megadrive do not work with my supergun...

Neo Geo and MD don't have the same RGB connectors. Similar, but not the same. You do damage to the connectors if you force one into the other...

Since a supergun is a custom built device there is no RGB standard for it. Use the supplied cable or get the pinout and make one yourself. A supergun doesn't "produce" a picture, it just passes the RGB signal from the actual Jamma board. If you get a picture on your CRT using the same cable and the EU/JP adapter is ok, then it might be an incompatibility to the Jamma board used.

Updating the XRGB under W7 doesn't work. Install XP. You can do it on a virtual machine....

[catfish]

thanks a lot fudho
update under virtual machine works fine

ok for the supergun i will ask the dude who sold it to me.
using the composite signal it's just unplayable...too ugly for me

[catfish]

last question for tonight,
i've checked the firmware and the xrgb is in english, but i have to do it 3 times before it works
how do i know if the b1 update worked ?

[Fudoh]

how do i know if the b1 update worked ?

switch to B1, RESTART, set the resolution to 1024x768. If your TV says 1024x768 then it reverted to B0 (hence no B1 installed). It it says 640x480, then B1 works. You can also check the scanline settings which only work in B1.

[freyesm]

does anybody know hoy to update the xrgb 3 on win7 64b ?
i've followed the turorial but the unit is not recongize by window and i can't update it when i launch tu updater.

I did the update under Win7, but it needs to be x86 (32-bit) version!

[Eggy]

hi,
I just got my xrgb-3 a few days ago and now I'm a bit troubled.I already updated it to b1 and english firmware and so far everything is working fine. except for my snes. the xrgb has problems syncing to it and won't stop switching between 15, 31 and 45 khz. and if it does finally sync, the picture is very unstable and shaky. I'm really surprised because I heard that the mvs and pc engine are the usual troublemakers. on my setup, they both work fine. it's a pal system, but this being the source of error is very improbable since it`s modded to 60hz. my mega drive/pal genesis(also 60 hz modded) works fine. changing the afc level barely alters the shaking in the picture, but that's rather unimportant if it doesn't even sync. I'm trying this on b0 mode btw. will this change in b1? help is very appreciated.

[BuckoA51]

I had trouble with my SNES at first too, there are a number of things this could be down to in my experience:-

1) SCART switches, are you using any?
2) Power supply, believe it or not virtually all of my SNES/SFC picture problems were resolved by replacing a faulty PSU
3) Pure composite sync - should NOT be necessary on the SNES for a good picture, though switching to pure sync can cure dot-crawl effects when running a PAL console at 60hz. Nothing as severe as the effect you are getting however.

And B1 mode is usually more error prone than B0.

[Eggy]

1)I`m using a scart switch for all consoles, I`ll try that.
2)I don´t have an emergency psu, I`ll have to borrow one.
3)how do I accomplish that?

[BuckoA51]

1) First thing I try
2) Second thing I'd try
3) Actually I'm talking rubbish sorry, its PAL games on a NTSC console that helped with in my case, I don't think the PAL SNES outputs pure sync, but I don't think your issues are down to using composite video for sync. We're talking very minor dot crawl on certain colours, not major picture instability.

[Konsolkongen]

When I had a modified EU SNES I too had problems with it and the XRGB-3. In my case it was the sound that kept dropping out.
If I connected the sound from the SNES directly to my receiver that worked fine though :/

[Eggy]

nope, connecting the snes directly to the snes won't help. connecting it to the tv itself works fine, so it can't be the cable. can't I somehow force the xrgb into 15khz mode?
another thing I'd like to know: can I somehow connect something that outputs 50hz via composite(like the n64) to the xrgb? I can see a picture, but irt's gray with vertical rainbow stripes. inputting 50hz through scart(mega drive) works fine.

[Fudoh]

can I somehow connect something that outputs 50hz via composite(like the n64) to the xrgb?

no, the XRGB does not have a PAL decoder. So PAL sources only work through RGB (but actually not sure about component right now....).