PVM Transformer Flyback part availability

[hontis]

I have a SONY PVM-2010QM that has recently blown it's Transformer flyback (part no: 1-439-322-00).
There appears to be no available replacement part on the whole internet - aside from one unit listing in Brazil that is impossible to order and could well just be an old listing - but it's just sitting there taunting me.
Is it possible to replace the part with a similar unit that might have better availability?
Or even repair the blown one?
I live in Sydney and there is literally no professional CRT fixing service available anymore.
I really want to get my PVM up and running again as it's the heart of my retro set up – it only has 350 lines but I've got an RGB scart line in on it and it looks great playing 80s and 90's titles.

[matt]

Yes, I'm in a similar situation. I have a PVM 1910 that I've had for a long time. It works fine, but the flyback whines a lot on startup. It's done that for 15 years and it's not a big problem, but I've been on the lookout for a spare for a long time. I did see that Brazilian one but, like you, I don't know anybody there and have no way to buy it.

The equivalent part numbers from Sony are 1-439-322-11 and 1-439-322-12. You can buy knockoff flybacks sold as the 322-11 model, but they're clearly not the same as they have a standard rubber cup instead of the metal tip.

What's wrong with your monitor? Is it possible that the flyback isn't at fault?

[xga]

Did you try Ray from Insight Technical Support?

http://insightbroadcast.yolasite.com/

[matt]

This was recently posted to Reddit - a user successfully used an aftermarket flyback replacement on a PVM-1910Q. It should work just as well on the regular 1910 or the 2010QM:

https://tobysworld.net/?p=715

The part in question can be purchased here, or on Ebay (whichever works better for you). Either way they're really cheap:

https://www.tedss.com/2023000553

The problem with this flyback is that, as I mentioned before, whoever made it put the wrong tip on the anode lead. So, you'll have to cut the end off and splice it with the original. Anode wire splice kits are available from various places if you search for "ECG 433" or "NTE 433".

[xga]

This was recently posted to Reddit - a user successfully used an aftermarket flyback replacement on a PVM-1910Q. It should work just as well on the regular 1910 or the 2010QM:

https://tobysworld.net/?p=715

The part in question can be purchased here, or on Ebay (whichever works better for you). Either way they're really cheap:

https://www.tedss.com/2023000553

The problem with this flyback is that, as I mentioned before, whoever made it put the wrong tip on the anode lead. So, you'll have to cut the end off and splice it with the original. Anode wire splice kits are available from various places if you search for "ECG 433" or "NTE 433".

Terrific outcome for that owner! Thanks for sharing that article, matt.

[tongshadow]

The problem with this flyback is that, as I mentioned before, whoever made it put the wrong tip on the anode lead.

This might be because of the different part number. While the FBT may be identical inside, it can have either an anode cup or anode clip at the end, hence the different part number. I've seen this on LG TVs that had a similar setup, but instead of the clip going into an H-Stat box it went into a voltage tripler box. Using a new updated FBT that goes directly into the tube made it work perfectly.

Also, never use the FBT of a larger screen on a smaller one, even if the pins are identical. They generate more high voltage and can potentially destroy the tube by causing arc-over inside it and could even crack the neck. FBT of a smaller screen into a larger one is fine though, but you'll lose substantial screen size due to the lower HV and adjusting it to fit the screen could potentially stress the width capacitors, leading to premature failure.

[hontis]

Thanks for all the help on this.
The links and info on a potentially suitable flyback model as well as the details of some professional local Sydney service help is much appreciated.
I'm going to source the part and the anode wire splice kit and then see if I have the guts to actually try to fix it.

The issue with the PVM is that during a short retro gaming session - on my PS2 – the screen went black and let out a fairly alarming screeching sound along with a burning smell.
Thankfully I was at hand to switch off the power asap and my wife wasn't home otherwise my CRT enjoyment days would have disappeared.

I know it's the flyback because took the back off the PVM and saw soot from the smoke but couldn't see anything obviously blown.
Then I switched the power back on and instantly saw the flyback glowing with a huge spark and almost catch fire - along with the screeching sound.
A couple of seconds were all that was needed for that diagnosis.

I've read that if you're changing out a flyback you should also consider replacing the horizontal output transistor and the snubber capacitor that's connected to it as it's often these parts that contribute to a deadfly back, and can sometimes kill the replacement flyback within a couple of months if they are faulty.
I'm well out of my depth on this though and can barely solder.
I'm going to get my old 20" PVM back up and running one way or another though.

[matt]

The problem with this flyback is that, as I mentioned before, whoever made it put the wrong tip on the anode lead.

This might be because of the different part number. While the FBT may be identical inside, it can have either an anode cup or anode clip at the end, hence the different part number. I've seen this on LG TVs that had a similar setup, but instead of the clip going into an H-Stat box it went into a voltage tripler box. Using a new updated FBT that goes directly into the tube made it work perfectly.

It's definitely not due to the part number. 1-439-322-11 is the part number listed in the service manual for the PVM-1910 (NTSC-only model), and is consistent with what's in my unit. All of these monitors have a high voltage block between the flyback and the tube, so a standard rubber cup/wire clip lead isn't going to work.

I've read that if you're changing out a flyback you should also consider replacing the horizontal output transistor and the snubber capacitor that's connected to it as it's often these parts that contribute to a deadfly back, and can sometimes kill the replacement flyback within a couple of months if they are faulty.
I'm well out of my depth on this though and can barely solder.
I'm going to get my old 20" PVM back up and running one way or another though.

Possibly, although flybacks are definitely capable of blowing by themselves.

Having some spare HOTs around isn't a bad idea if you want to future proof your monitor. They're another common failure point in CRTs and, like flybacks will become less available as time goes on.

Definitely take the time to practice your soldering before attempting this! Removing a flyback is a pain due to how securely the pins are soldered in. It's very easy to lift a pad or damage something. Having a desoldering gun really helps here. I've done it before with a manual suction pump and it's possible but definitely riskier.

[buttersoft]

On most older Sony's the Flyback HV wire feeds into the H-stat, using a push-release coupling (you push in until it clicks gently, and sometimes turn slightly, and the HV wire will just slide free). I would think this one is the same. Either way as Matt notes, the HV lead from the flyback doesn't need ANY anode cup as it's not connecting to the tube. It is, however, likely to need an HV wire splice, as shown in that blog linked above, to use the existing push-release tip from the old flyback wire.

I've used Dalbani Corp. for flybacks before, but they're not listing anything like the part you're after right now. Still, it's another avenue to try, and you could shoot them an email. http://www.ebaystores.com/Dalbani-Corpo ... ny+flyback

And searching HR Diemen brings up this https://www.hrdiemen.com/search/index?u ... 439-322-11. However the link is dead. I tried the flyback for my 2730 as well, and that link does come up. Not only that, the part looks right, with the push coupling on the end of the lead. I would drop HR Diemen a line for sure.