Worthington N64 RGB Mod Gone Wrong

[Mikey]

Hello! I have just installed this mod on a US N64 and it works fine for a few minutes in RGB, then the screen begins to glitch, then quickly becomes garbled, then shuts off entirely.

I suspect it's heat related because restarting the console won't make it work again. It only works after the console has been left off to rest. Then it works, but the same problem occurs.

Has anyone with experience of this mod had anything similar happen? If so, what could be the cause?

Any help will be appreciated. At this stage I am considering removing the mod and running the console in composite to see whether the mod is at fault or a video chip has been cooked.

[Mikey]

Update: In case the power supply was at fault I tried a new power supply, but the problem persists.

It seems as if the RGB mod is cooking the console.

[darcagn]

I would open up your console and verify that there are no shorts anywhere in your installation. Use a multimeter to check continuity between adjacent pins on all the soldered ribbons and cables on your install. I can't think of any other reason these symptoms would happen besides a faulty installation.

[NewSchoolBoxer]

I haven't messed with N64, just using general electronics knowledge. I like suggestion to do continuity check.

Did you install the "Borti4938’S N64 3.3v Voltage Regulator" mod? I see the justification for the new voltage regulator that the Tim W mod itself doesn't touch is:

This version of the mod also integrates Borti’s 3.3v Voltage Regulator circuit into it’s design. The N64’s stock 3.3v rail is very noisy, with high frequency noise produced by the audio circuit and controller inputs leaking into the power rail. As a result this produces unwanted noise in the RGB video output on any board that doesn’t have a separate 3.3v power regulator installed. This version of the RGB mod eliminates this problem by integrating a dedicated 3.3v Voltage Regulator directly on board for clean power input and noise free video output.

That voltage regular board itself seems to sell for $10 but it uses $1 of parts with the GH27G linear regulator and 3 SMD capacitors. Could roll your own replacement. Switching voltage regulators are far more efficient and therefore generate much less heat. The inductor and low frequency switching would generate some EMI but "low EMI" ones exist and your issue is heat. Looking at $3-10 range.

I'm a fan of electricity usage monitors. Plug into AC outlet then plug N64 power supply into that. Could watch power use increase over time and see if power factor is declining or console straight out keeps drawing more current. If stable power draw then issue is mod design or mod installation, or both? What would be nice is someone to measure a stock N64 over Composite or S-Video...or to other modded N64 and compare. Sorry I can't help.

Greater screen brightness can draw more power and therefore heat. If you're willing to turn on the console for more testing, can try a game with very dark scenes and keep it paused or looping. Resident Evil 2 or Perfect Dark maybe? Reducing TV brightness shouldn't help, has to be console putting out lower power darker images.

Could be capacitor(s) on the power line are near end of life and need replacing. A noisy power supply, meaning the non-flat contribution to a DC signal, is power that can't be used by the console and gets converted to heat. An oscilloscope would help but now isn't the time to learn how to use one if unfamiliar.

High humidity is corrosive to electronics. If you're living in Florida or something, considering it's the summer, worth getting a de-humidifier.

[Mikey]

Thanks for helping.

I went back to the chip connection and found a couple of joints were looking scorched. Clearly there wasn't enough solder on there and the heat build-up was bothering the chip. It's fixed now.