Anyone have experience getting scratches out of a screen?

[BONKERS]

I got lucky recently and scored an incredible deal on one of these Sony OLEDs (Processing of 480i content is great with both a lagless bob mode and a motion adaptive deinterlacer option, a rolling scan/flicker option for reducing motion blur,etc)
https://pro.sony/en_GB/products/surgica ... pvm-2551md
It has basically no burn in and is in mostly great shape except it has a few deep'ish scratches in the outer glass screen that are pretty visible on lighter/white content.
I could get used to it eventually, but has anyone ever tried anything to buff out or used something to hide or make the scratches less visible successfully on glass screens? (CRTs would apply I think)

[strayan]

I got lucky recently and scored an incredible deal on one of these Sony OLEDs (Processing of 480i content is great with both a lagless bob mode and a motion adaptive deinterlacer option, a rolling scan/flicker option for reducing motion blur,etc)
https://pro.sony/en_GB/products/surgica ... pvm-2551md
It has basically no burn in and is in mostly great shape except it has a few deep'ish scratches in the outer glass screen that are pretty visible on lighter/white content.
I could get used to it eventually, but has anyone ever tried anything to buff out or used something to hide or make the scratches less visible successfully on glass screens? (CRTs would apply I think)

You cannot buff it out because there is a coating on it. It’s plastic, not glass.

Replace with new laser cut acrylic sheet. Comes apart relatively quickly and new sheet will drop in if cut to the same size. Check CAREFULLY (I cannot stress this enough) for dust before putting it all back together.

FYI service menu is:

Press MENU

Simultaneously press RETURN and CONTROL.

Hat tip to fudoh as usual.

Lag test results here: https://www.retrorgb.com/lagtest.html

[SCARTicus]

Sandpaper, carburetor cleaner, epoxy, the heatgun trick... you have options.

[fernan1234]

Do not do any of the above!

The OLED panels on these monitors is especially coated and treated, any conventional approach is very likely to damage it further. From what I've seen on the production and broadcast panels though, the coated layer seems to be affixed to the actual OLED panel, so I wouldn't get my hopes up on it being removable, but these medical monitors may be different as they are made to resist stronger disinfectant use in cleaning. The manual for these medical monitors does mention a "protection plate", so strayan's suggestion may be doable. You will want to track down a service manual for disassembly instructions, and see if the plastic top layer is indeed removable.

If you make any progress share an update here. I'm curious as to how recoverable these panels can be.

[BONKERS]

I got lucky recently and scored an incredible deal on one of these Sony OLEDs (Processing of 480i content is great with both a lagless bob mode and a motion adaptive deinterlacer option, a rolling scan/flicker option for reducing motion blur,etc)
https://pro.sony/en_GB/products/surgica ... pvm-2551md
It has basically no burn in and is in mostly great shape except it has a few deep'ish scratches in the outer glass screen that are pretty visible on lighter/white content.
I could get used to it eventually, but has anyone ever tried anything to buff out or used something to hide or make the scratches less visible successfully on glass screens? (CRTs would apply I think)

You cannot buff it out because there is a coating on it. It’s plastic, not glass.

Replace with new laser cut acrylic sheet. Comes apart relatively quickly and new sheet will drop in if cut to the same size. Check CAREFULLY (I cannot stress this enough) for dust before putting it all back together.

FYI service menu is:

Press MENU

Simultaneously press RETURN and CONTROL.

Hat tip to fudoh as usual.

Lag test results here: https://www.retrorgb.com/lagtest.html

Yeah I tested it with my TimeSleuth and even with the strobing backlight it's still less than 20ms though even without it it seems to fluctuate between 10 and 20ms.. With the TS though it seems to treat the Interlaced resolutions as half height progressive signals. 480i is detected as 1920x240 for example. Going into the menu the DI options are greyed out when using 1080i/480i with the TS.
I did test a PS2 with it and the DI was very good and didn't feel laggy at all. I also tried 240p over component and composite and sadly it doesn't work.
I wonder if Sony does any front panel replacements still on these.. it does mention a website on the back of the unit, of course it doesn't have the same information it would have had near a decade ago

In regards to the lag testing again though, I used to have that spreadsheet and added entries to it, but someone seems to have gone through and removed a bunch of entries. There are 4 displays I tested but two of those entries seemed to have been removed.

[BONKERS]

Hmm. Having some trouble with this monitor and a PC. Without an EDID override, it's always selecting 1920x1200 as native resolution. 1080p by default only works in preset 1 at 30hz as an HDTV resolution without an override.
Even when using 1920x1080 with an EDID override and the display saying it's using 1080p. It looks somewhat soft, like it's being scaled before being displayed. Compared to how pixel perfect the OSD looks, something seems wrong. There's a Vert/Horz filtering option that can be tweaked in the service menu to make it look a bit more normal. But that setting always seems to be reset and doesn't save once the monitor is turned off.

[strayan]

You need to set scan mode to ‘native’. I’ve only ever used the DVI input but I did originally have EDID issues that were easily overcome with a custom resolution using NVIDIA control panel. An EDID minder also works (which I used to connect a Mac one time).

[fernan1234]

The native scan mode is only for inputs other than 1080p though, which is the native resolution of the panel--though IMO native scan should always be on. Something weird is probably going on with the PC's video output. I'd try a different source.

[BONKERS]

For shits and giggles, I tried a second DP to DVI adapter that I normally use to run a 50 ft DVI to HDMI cable to a nearby room for a TV that works perfectly fine with that adapter.
Seem to get same results. I tried the Time Sleuth and 1080p from that seems to be pixel perfect. I also tried using the TS > HDMI to VGA in to the HD15 port and 1080p through there definitely looks softer than DVI from the TS.

EDIT: I've tried also using all 3 display ports on my RTX 2080 and several different DVI cables. Nothing will budge. After thinking of it, I used this picture:
https://u.cubeupload.com/MrBonk/ChromaRes.png (Which displays properly on all my other displays)
To check if it's processing the signal as a proper signal or not. And it's not. 4:2:2 shows, not 4:4:4. It's like during the lifespan of this monitor the previous owners updated the EDID on the device or something to think 1200p was native, CRU shows 1200p as native res. The monitor did ship with this DVI adapter https://www.broadatacom.com/products/48 ... 0-t-r-m-lc Which mentions it can reprogram the EDID. I wonder if they did that...
Next step I guess i'll plug it in to a PS4 with the 4:4:4 picture and see what it shows there.

EDIT: PS4 displays 1080p as "Unsupported". It works, but it doesn't display 4:4:4 properly either. Damn. And I can confirm the PS4 displays 4:4:4 properly with my main TV using this image. This must mean someone fucked with the EDID

[strayan]

For shits and giggles, I tried a second DP to DVI adapter that I normally use to run a 50 ft DVI to HDMI cable to a nearby room for a TV that works perfectly fine with that adapter.
Seem to get same results. I tried the Time Sleuth and 1080p from that seems to be pixel perfect. I also tried using the TS > HDMI to VGA in to the HD15 port and 1080p through there definitely looks softer than DVI from the TS.

EDIT: I've tried also using all 3 display ports on my RTX 2080 and several different DVI cables. Nothing will budge. After thinking of it, I used this picture:
https://u.cubeupload.com/MrBonk/ChromaRes.png (Which displays properly on all my other displays)
To check if it's processing the signal as a proper signal or not. And it's not. 4:2:2 shows, not 4:4:4. It's like during the lifespan of this monitor the previous owners updated the EDID on the device or something to think 1200p was native, CRU shows 1200p as native res. The monitor did ship with this DVI adapter https://www.broadatacom.com/products/48 ... 0-t-r-m-lc Which mentions it can reprogram the EDID. I wonder if they did that...
Next step I guess i'll plug it in to a PS4 with the 4:4:4 picture and see what it shows there.

EDIT: PS4 displays 1080p as "Unsupported". It works, but it doesn't display 4:4:4 properly either. Damn. And I can confirm the PS4 displays 4:4:4 properly with my main TV using this image. This must mean someone fucked with the EDID

I also suspect windows might be screwing with your custom resolution. Go into display settings -> advanced display settings and check to see your active signal resolution is correct.

My monitor broadcasts 1920x1200 as the native resolution too (this is obviously incorrect). You should not need to reprogram the EDID to get it working. Your output resolution settings are wrong somewhere.

[BONKERS]

Have you tried plugging yours into a PS4 and using the above 4:4:4 chroma picture to check if it's processing it right?
That image and a PS4 show proper 4:4:4 on every display I own except this one. The image also works properly on the same displays in Windows + EDID override to remove non PC timing resolutions.
I'm using Custom Resolution Utility FWIW. I've tried using the default settings, the default + adding 1080p60hz timings with 4 different refresh rates, 1080p HDTV timing resolutions, deleting the entire extension block (which causes windows to see it as a DVI only display as it should and removes the possibility of HDMI HDTV compatibility messing things up) and setting 1080p as the only resolution. I've tried custom timings,LCD Native/LCD Standard timings. With a full driver reset in between each test as you would normally making any changes with any other display.
The same kind of things that can trick all those garbage 1080p Vizio TVs into running in 4:4:4 PC mode even(Which disables any all calibration controls sadly). Nada

Is there something in the service menu maybe that is causing the problem? Can you make any adjustments on your set in the service menu that actual stick between power cycling?

Example image showing the OSD pixel perfect. Everything in the background is somewhat blurred due to 4:4:4 not displaying properly. (Varying focus depending on the part of the image , but look around the area behind the OSD)
https://u.cubeupload.com/MrBonk/IMG2021031420330223.jpg

[fernan1234]

Is MULTI DISPLAY ENABLE set to on? I'd try changing that. And no difference with preset 2?

[BONKERS]

I don't think Multi display is on. Selecting Preset 2, which in the manual indicates it supports 1280x720/1920x1080 I can only get it to display 1280x720. It won't get a sync signal from preset 2.

I also bought 2 more adapters just to try out. (HDMI female > DVI male) and after A/B testing with my PS4 the only thing that actually seems to display it properly is going into the service menu and changing the "FILTER_HORZ" setting from the default of 10 to a value of 6. This gets the 4:4:4 pattern to display properly and match my other displays. (at least on PS4). The only problem is the service menu doesn't seem to retain any changes between power cycles.

Here's some pictures. (The TV picture is a bit out of focus but after double checking the 4:2:2 part of the image looks just like the 4:2:2 on the Monitor)
60" Sony W610b/2 https://u.cubeupload.com/MrBonk/PXL2021 ... 600935.jpg
The 2551MD https://u.cubeupload.com/MrBonk/PXL2021 ... 011444.jpg
What the OLED looks like by default with that FILTER_HORZ=10 setting https://u.cubeupload.com/MrBonk/PXL2021 ... 550525.jpg

I haven't tried on my PC again yet though. Was hoping maybe with a registry delete of the EDID value of the monitor, setting it to mode 2 and doing a driver cycle/monitor power cycle would get it to redetect mode 2 at 1080p.

[BONKERS]

Yeah no luck with preset 2 and 1080p. 720p just fine.
I did get my EDID override to stick so it detects it as native 1080p, otherwise by default it will only accept a 1080p30 TV timing signal, or 1200p as native.

Still wish there was a way I could get that PW318 service menu option to save between resolution switches/power cycles so I wouldn't have to go into the menu every time to change it.