Component Video mod for curved screen Sony Trinitrons

[flyingflygon]

Absolutely try wiring directly without the DuPont connectors. That's the only way I could get mine to go away. Hopefully it works for you.

Hot damn, didn't think that'd be the issue, but it sure was. Everything looks clean now. Thanks a bunch!

Nice! So glad to hear

[EddieMaster]

Hey guys,

so I have an interesting question. I know it is not a cruved Sony Trinitron, but I have a Philips 32PW9527 /12 (European model) with 3 SCART ports (of which 2 can display RGB). I found out, however, that this model also exists in overseas territories. Right now I am specifically talking about the Philips 32PW9527 /79R (New Zealand model) that is HD capable and had Component YPbPr and VGA ports. Since mine CAN'T do HD via SCART and the New Zealand model of the same type can, it made me wonder if maybe it was possible to get those capabilities back by modding back YPbPr Component. I've looked at the schematics and they seem to look almost identical, with some differences (of which I don't know if they make a difference). The Jungle chip and other chip seem to look identical though.

I wanted to ask you guys if you could maybe help and see if it would be even possible to mod YPbPr back in and if you could explain what to do. Sorry if I ask too much, I was just wondering and you all seem like the only people with expertise (since barely anything on the internet can be found regarding YPbPr modding.

I will supply information in case anyone is willing to help.

The schematics of the 32PW9527 /79R (New Zealand, YPbPr capable) -- Chassis EM5A P/M AA
https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/ ... nfo/24028/

The schematics of the 32PW9527 /12 (European, RGB SCART capable) -- Chassis EM5E AA
https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/ ... info/2854/

The video in which you can see the 32PW9527 /79R (New Zealand) working with its ports
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VhffNi4Ai8&t=802s

[KPackratt2k]

Absolutely try wiring directly without the DuPont connectors. That's the only way I could get mine to go away. Hopefully it works for you.

Hot damn, didn't think that'd be the issue, but it sure was. Everything looks clean now. Thanks a bunch!

Weird, I've always used DuPont connectors on all of my RGB mods (including the BA-4C/D and BA-5) and have never had any issues with them. I wonder if you guys were having issues with them because of bad crimping, one of my practice cables had no continuity from the crimped connector to the bare wire, so I had to recrimp that wire. Not related to any of my mods, just something I thought I'd mention to show how recrimping can make a difference.

[Zronium]

Weird, I've always used DuPont connectors on all of my RGB mods (including the BA-4C/D and BA-5) and have never had any issues with them. I wonder if you guys were having issues with them because of bad crimping, one of my practice cables had no continuity from the crimped connector to the bare wire, so I had to recrimp that wire. Not related to any of my mods, just something I thought I'd mention to show how recrimping can make a difference.

It's possible that the crimps were just bad, I'm honestly terrible at crimping connectors lmao

[flyingflygon]

Absolutely try wiring directly without the DuPont connectors. That's the only way I could get mine to go away. Hopefully it works for you.

Hot damn, didn't think that'd be the issue, but it sure was. Everything looks clean now. Thanks a bunch!

Weird, I've always used DuPont connectors on all of my RGB mods (including the BA-4C/D and BA-5) and have never had any issues with them. I wonder if you guys were having issues with them because of bad crimping, one of my practice cables had no continuity from the crimped connector to the bare wire, so I had to recrimp that wire. Not related to any of my mods, just something I thought I'd mention to show how recrimping can make a difference.

I had done it on two TVs before I realized that the connectors were part of the issue. However in my case, it's the connectors in conjunction with using diodes. Once I dropped the diodes, having connectors themselves does not cause interference. I surmised it was ultimately caused by dirty power at my house, since I can see the faintest ground interference on all CRTs anyway. Using diodes and connectors just exacerbated it a ton.

So it's definitely not bad crimps. But it could be a number of factors - usually connectors will just worsen what's inherently there with analog electronics on your home's power source.

[chjmartin2a]

Hi,

I am really excited to have found this thread. I recently pulled out my KV-27S40 as I now have more space in my office. I was excited to get to use this TV and my memory betrayed me because I thought I had S-Video input, which I do not. I know RGB mods using the menu overlay are all the rage but I really do not have anything with a SCART connector. I do however have plenty of S-Video output and component output devices. I really would like to either a) add S-Video to this TV or b) component mod. I am ok with just component, hence asking the question here.

Here is a link to the schematic applicable to my TV.

Sure enough, my jungle chip is the same one from this post CXA2061S.



However I don't have S-Video input, and of course I only know how to install mods others have made, not as skilled at trying to make my own. Any advice on how to get started here? Obviously the mod where people can use the TV menu to get to the additional input and enabling second audio, etc. is great, but honestly if I have to put in a switch to keep my original composite input working and have to share audio that's fine with me. This will, in fact, for me be my first attempt at a TV mod. I'd appreciate any advice on a shopping list too. I have a soldering station and desoldering iron and I do know how to use them. I have lifted IC pins in the past. I have dremel modified cases and put in connectors before, etc. I haven't grounded the anode before but it appears now is the time to learn.

Like I said, I am not concerned with it being super fancy. I am happy to have just composite and component, requiring a switch or not, and having it use the current audio in. If it wasn't a huge amount of additional work, also would be happy to add S-Video to that as well. Would be intellectually interested in how to enable a new input for component and audio as a second input, but that isn't critical. I appreciate in advance any help in getting me started.

Thanks,

Chris

Anybody willing to mod my board for me? I'll pay...

[KPackratt2k]

Anybody willing to mod my board for me? I'll pay...

If you are in (or close to) the Seattle, WA area, I would gladly mod this set for you. PM me if you're interested.

[flyingflygon]

I wanted to report that I successfully modded a KV-27S42 with both component and RGB connected to one rotary switch. More details and pics on Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... h_both_rgb

Spoiler

Switching between the blanking circuits: https://imgur.com/a/aSif1s3

[KPackratt2k]

Nice job! I should post about my modded KV-27V42 someday. I've also modded a KV-27V20 to have both YPbPr and RGB through the use of a 3P3T slide switch, I believe I've posted about that one several months ago.

[HDgaming42]

I wanted to report that I successfully modded a KV-27S42 with both component and RGB connected to one rotary switch. More details and pics on Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/comm ... h_both_rgb

Spoiler

Switching between the blanking circuits: https://imgur.com/a/aSif1s3

Wait--there's a way to overcome the horizontal shift without resorting to the service menu? I had my KV27S42 RGB modded and even with a full service menu adjustment I can't center it properly. Can you expand upon how this is overcome?

[matt]

Wait--there's a way to overcome the horizontal shift without resorting to the service menu? I had my KV27S42 RGB modded and even with a full service menu adjustment I can't center it properly. Can you expand upon how this is overcome?

There are 2 things happening here.

First, you have to use the S-Video Luma input for sync, otherwise the comb filter delays the signal too much and the picture is too far off center. If you do that, the shift will be minimal and you'll be able to easily adjust the position in the menu. This is the case for any TV that uses a comb filter (which is most TVs that have S-video or component inputs).

Secondly, the TV has a horizontal position switch on the A board. This can be wired in tandem with blanking to automatically correct for horizontal shift when switching to RGB or component.

I wrote an RGB mod guide for the 27S42 that covers both of these. The same principles apply to the component mod as well:

https://crtdatabase.com/crts/sony/sony-kv-27s42

[HDgaming42]

Thanks so much for this--this is awesome!

Wait--there's a way to overcome the horizontal shift without resorting to the service menu? I had my KV27S42 RGB modded and even with a full service menu adjustment I can't center it properly. Can you expand upon how this is overcome?

There are 2 things happening here.

First, you have to use the S-Video Luma input for sync, otherwise the comb filter delays the signal too much and the picture is too far off center. If you do that, the shift will be minimal and you'll be able to easily adjust the position in the menu. This is the case for any TV that uses a comb filter (which is most TVs that have S-video or component inputs).

Secondly, the TV has a horizontal position switch on the A board. This can be wired in tandem with blanking to automatically correct for horizontal shift when switching to RGB or component.

I wrote an RGB mod guide for the 27S42 that covers both of these. The same principles apply to the component mod as well:

https://crtdatabase.com/crts/sony/sony-kv-27s42

[KPackratt2k]

I've modded a Sony KV-27V42 (BA-4D chassis) to include both RGB and YPbPr inputs which are selectable via a 3P3T slide switch (the same one used for the KV-27V20 AA-2 mod from several months ago), and as promised earlier, here is a photo album of the mod with diagrams included.

https://imgur.com/a/TFw7VLg

Special thanks to matt and MarkOZLAD for providing the information to make this mod possible.

[chickenxhat]

I am trying to mod a KV-27v22 for component and have largely followed packrats information, however I am getting only luma correctly working. I followed the following from his post (https://imgur.io/a/BjLmET0) but wired directly and omitted the switch, as I won't be using RGB or S-Video and am happy to more or less permanently alter the set to run component. That said, I still removed those components that the imgur pics indicated should be removed and added those it said needed to be added, paying attention to polarity for the caps. My real problem is simply wiring up the input jacks. When I first wired it up I got nothing, and noticed that when I pulled out Luma that I brushed the male jack against the outer sleeve of the female connector I bought, suggesting I had it wired in reverse where the wires arrive at the connector from the main board. I swapped and now Luma works as intended, but I'm having no luck at all with wiring the two chroma lines. I have 1ea 75ohm resistor for these lines as intended, I'm just totally not wiring things in the proper sequence and would love it if someone could assist me with getting it right.

The ypbpr wiring diagram in the above referenced imgur link makes sense to me until I actually wire it up and see that I clearly don't have it correct, and now I'm worried that I'm just not understanding where split the lines for ground and the 75Rs on the chroma lines. A clear picture would be great. More, the picture of the actual jacks wired up don't seem to match the diagram. Why is that? Maybe I'm just not reading it correctly.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!


UPDATE: I modified the original diagram to show how I am attempting to wire this: https://imgur.com/Eclv8Mf

SECOND UPDATE: a reddit user pointed out that I was mistakenly believing the line from PYS to the switch in the original diagram was only related to RGBs, but is needed to activate blanking for the YPbPr signal. I will connect that line later today and see how it goes.

THIRD UPDATE: added that line with a switch to break it, got chroma but very dark. Swapped polarity of luma and everything looks right only the image is scrolling, like ironically it isn’t actually synced. Can someone evaluate?

[nopiccolo]

Hey all!

I recently got a Trinitron KV-24FV12 for free off craigslist, and modded it to accept according to this Zronium's instructions. It came out really well, and I'm really happy with how the picture looks even if the convergence leaves a bit to be desired (I know that is basically an expected problem with flatscreen CRTs like this.)

There is one major problem though: In certain moments, the screen will start rolling uncontrollably and it makes playing certain games impossible. I think this has something to do with the brightness of the picture, but I've fiddled with the picture settings and the service menu and it hasn't helped at all. Here's a video and some pictures to demonstrate what's happening: https://imgur.com/a/ImL7nH6
This happens in composite as well, so I'm not sure if it's something I did or a problem the tv had before I worked on it. (Forgot to do a prelim test, whoops!)

I was just wondering if anybody had a suggestion on where to start with the troubleshooting process, or if anyone has had a similar problem before, thanks in advanced for any help!

[skull_face]

Hi i'm new in this foro y furthermore new in this kind of mod's. i have a sony kv21se42, and with some help of one of my friend i have already get to the board. The jungle chip is the same as the one in the post and i want to make the mod but Unfortunately i dont understand a lot of things, i dont know if i can made the mod in my tv. That being said, can someone help me? hahahah I would really appreciate it since it is the only forum I found on this topic.
pd: sorry if my english is not the best :B my mother language is spanish.

[flyingflygon]

Hey all, revisiting this thread as I'm working on a KV-27V42 and implementing a dual RGB and Component mod. I'm having massive troubles with sync.

RGB works fine over Mister and syncs to everything. Component doesn't sync, or can't hold the sync. I have my sync line pulling from S-Video luma to the center pole of a switch, and each leg goes to one mod. One side goes to my Sunthar mux board for RGB sync, and the other goes to the Y input RCA jack for the component mod. When I turn on the Mister in component mode, it sort of syncs, but if you know the default Mister background how it's rolling static and sometimes its mostly white and other times its darker? Well when it gets darker, I lose sync for a second. This continues into other scenes. When I try to load a core, it doesn't sync at all. This all leads me to believe that it can only sync on higher voltages of the luma input.

Composite sync works perfectly fine. But of course, we can't use that due to the left shift.

What I have found is that by splitting this Y line between jungle pin 37 and S-Video connector's luma, it is getting 75 Ohm termination (even though if you check the service manual schematic, it only shows a grounding resistor of 75 on chroma - maybe Sony forgot to document it? lol), and reducing that termination resistance causes sync to never work. I put a pot as my terminating resistor and tried to sweep between 0-10k and it never got better than the default 75 where it will only sync on full bright scenes.

I will list what I have already done:

• Aformentioned terminating resistor adjustments

• Putting in a cut S-Video cable (thinking maybe the switch pin wasn't working?) no luck

• Moving the sync wire from S-Video luma downstream to the output of C081 - right before the sync switch in IC010

• Inline capacitor values of 0.01uF, 0.1uF, and 0.47uF

Maybe there's something I can introduce to boost luma signal voltages? After re-reading each of the replies to this thread, I am now wondering if there's a possibility of register values locking me out of using the Y input from EYIN and maybe it's using the S-Video input itself?

Has anyone got any ideas here? I would love some help as I don't really have any other options to try.

[KPackratt2k]

I found out that the later BA-4D 27" sets use a sync separator IC (IC010) for switching to the S-Video input instead of the logic signal on the shield pins used in previous sets. If for some reason the IC can't recognize the signal properly, it loses sync. When I attempted to input RGBS from a Dreamcast with a DC2VGA DIY adapter in CSYNC mode to a KV-27V42 that I modded for a friend, it wouldn't sync unless I changed the ID-1 value to "23", which reverts S-Video detection to the shield logic method instead of the sync separator method. Maybe you can try changing that setting to see if it solves your problem.

[flyingflygon]

I found out that the later BA-4D 27" sets use a sync separator IC (IC010) for switching to the S-Video input instead of the logic signal on the shield pins used in previous sets. If for some reason the IC can't recognize the signal properly, it loses sync. When I attempted to input RGBS from a Dreamcast with a DC2VGA DIY adapter in CSYNC mode to a KV-27V42 that I modded for a friend, it wouldn't sync unless I changed the ID-1 value to "23", which reverts S-Video detection to the shield logic method instead of the sync separator method. Maybe you can try changing that setting to see if it solves your problem.

You are such a lifesaver. This worked perfectly, exactly what I needed. Thank you for that incredibly valuable information!

[matt]

I found out that the later BA-4D 27" sets use a sync separator IC (IC010) for switching to the S-Video input instead of the logic signal on the shield pins used in previous sets. If for some reason the IC can't recognize the signal properly, it loses sync. When I attempted to input RGBS from a Dreamcast with a DC2VGA DIY adapter in CSYNC mode to a KV-27V42 that I modded for a friend, it wouldn't sync unless I changed the ID-1 value to "23", which reverts S-Video detection to the shield logic method instead of the sync separator method. Maybe you can try changing that setting to see if it solves your problem.

That's interesting. I did a component mod on a KV-20FV12 recently, but found the TV would lose sync on dark screens when I used the s-video input for sync. Using composite for sync gave a stable image, but you have to disable to comb filter which ruins composite. The BA-5s also use a sync separator chip for S-Video.

My solution was to inject sync before the comb filter, which works well but requires more wiring (you have to add a manual switch between the comb filter output and luma).

Did you see any difference in picture quality with the ID bit change? Changing from 151 to 23 disables ID-1 bit 7 (which has a value of 128). I could never figure out what it does - it's enabled on all the 27" BA-4D models but not the BA-4 and BA-5. On the TV's I've worked on it doesn't seem to correspond to an actual feature.

On the 2nd generation BA-5D TVs (FV-310, FS-210), bit 7 appears to enable the 2nd component input.

[matt]

In case anyone's interested, I recently wrote up a component video mod for the KV-20M40 (BA-4 chassis). It's really simple - on these models you can get away with using the composite input for the Y signal, plus you can make it auto switch with the remote. The mod only requires 4 wires, 2 RCA jacks, and 6 passive components.

I put the writeup here:

https://crtdatabase.com/crts/sony/sony-kv-20m40

[Josh128]

Nice!

[chuckster]

In case anyone's interested, I recently wrote up a component video mod for the KV-20M40 (BA-4 chassis). It's really simple - on these models you can get away with using the composite input for the Y signal, plus you can make it auto switch with the remote. The mod only requires 4 wires, 2 RCA jacks, and 6 passive components.

I put the writeup here:

https://crtdatabase.com/crts/sony/sony-kv-20m40

I am trying my first ever mod on a CRT, and it is a KV-13M40, and it is really a practice run for the same mod on a 20M40. I am using your guide, and I had a minor question so I came here to ask, and find the author themself! I gotta say the guide is has been very useful. Clear and very good about explaining each step, even for a newbie.

One question I did have was how to handle switching since the 13” set doesn’t have the extra front AV input. You mention this in your guide, recommending a physical switch. Could you possibly give some more detail on how to wire that up? I plan on following your guide exactly for the 20” model.

[matt]

I am trying my first ever mod on a CRT, and it is a KV-13M40, and it is really a practice run for the same mod on a 20M40. I am using your guide, and I had a minor question so I came here to ask, and find the author themself! I gotta say the guide is has been very useful. Clear and very good about explaining each step, even for a newbie.

One question I did have was how to handle switching since the 13” set doesn’t have the extra front AV input. You mention this in your guide, recommending a physical switch. Could you possibly give some more detail on how to wire that up? I plan on following your guide exactly for the 20” model.

It's the same as the blanking switch for an RGB mod. Find a +5v point on the board and attach it to the YUVSW pin through a switch, with a 1k resistor for current limiting.

You could actually use the same point as the 20M40 mod; the TV is permanently stuck on AV1 input so that pin will always be high. Otherwise, pin 3 on the RF tuner is +5v and you can find several other points by following the schematic from there.

[chuckster]

Thank you, I will try that! I thought I could go with the same pin in the tutorial, but wanted to be sure!

EDIT:

Just wanted to report that the mod worked! Thank you all for laying the groundwork so that folks like me could do something like this! I’m sure the results will be even more impressive on the 20”!

[swankerme]

Does anyone know if this mod is compatible with models that contain the PIP board and an active PIP circuit? I am modding a KV-27V66 which has a PIP board attached to the otherwise empty header this mod uses for YUVSW, EYIN, ERYIN and EBYIN. I am utilizing the same points (albeit on the mini board), but I am only seeing a B&W image. I'm not sure I'm the additional board changes pathway capacitance or resistance.

Does the PIP functionality need to be disabled for the external component input to work, or are the simultaneously compatible?

[matt]

Does anyone know if this mod is compatible with models that contain the PIP board and an active PIP circuit? I am modding a KV-27V66 which has a PIP board attached to the otherwise empty header this mod uses for YUVSW, EYIN, ERYIN and EBYIN. I am utilizing the same points (albeit on the mini board), but I am only seeing a B&W image. I'm not sure I'm the additional board changes pathway capacitance or resistance.

Does the PIP functionality need to be disabled for the external component input to work, or are the simultaneously compatible?

I'd pull the PIP board and use the header for your connections. I've never tried the mod on a model with PIP, but your results seem to indicate that there's a conflict.

[Ramzelle]

With the help of OP, I was able to confirm that this mod works on the AA-2D chassis. Without going too in-depth about the details, here is what I had to do to get it to work on my KV-32V26:

1. Remove R358/R359/R360
2. Run YPbPr through 0.01 uF caps on the positive legs of caps C360/C361/C362 (there may just be jumpers here; remove those)
3. Run blank at far side of R1352
4. Grab 5v from an appropriate point (you can trace pin 46 of the micon to find one)
5. Grab sync from center pin of s-video
6. Use a switch to connect 5v and blank (more than one pole is necessary to preserve s-video)

Hey Matt,

I have a few questions as a novice modder in reference to the AA-2D Chassis if you have the time.

Do I install .01uf Ceramic Caps into C360/C361/C362 sockets
Where do you run the sync signal to, is it as simple as joining the center pin of sync to the positive leg of C360 Cap with the Y signal?
Following these directions would this properly Mux the OSD, it seems... too simple?
I would reach out to Lanr757 but it seems he hasn't been active in some time, If you have any correspondence with him could you forward it to me, might go a long in helping me.

Trying to theory craft as much as I can before diving in. Appreciate the write up OP

[swankerme]

I'm also currently attempting this with an AA-2D.

Yes, caps go into the C360/C361/C362 slots.

The sync signal goes to the green (YIN) center pin to the S-video luma sync (just below R233).

This isn't an OSD Mux, BTW.

Matt, I have completed this mod as described below, and I am having the issue of no red colors. My switch is working with +5V and I see the image on Video 1, but I only see Blues/Greens/Yellows. I've double checked all connections - are there any service menu settings that need to be adjusted / enabled with the AA-2D to activate the YPbPr that you know of?

I've tried:

-0.1 uf caps in c360-362
-.47 uf caps in c360-362
-220 ohm in line resistors in line with above capacitors, and no resistors
-left PIP module in place, and tried removing pip module



Not sure what could be causing a loss of red color. I've tried two systems/cables and the effect is the same.

UPDATE: I switched from the MONITOR OUT RCA jacks I was using to the Video 3 RCA jacks and the problem was resolved. I would have loved to use MONITOR OUT as they are useless on the set, but no matter how much I tried, I couldn't get the Pr to work.

With the help of OP, I was able to confirm that this mod works on the AA-2D chassis. Without going too in-depth about the details, here is what I had to do to get it to work on my KV-32V26:

1. Remove R358/R359/R360
2. Run YPbPr through 0.01 uF caps on the positive legs of caps C360/C361/C362 (there may just be jumpers here; remove those)
3. Run blank at far side of R1352
4. Grab 5v from an appropriate point (you can trace pin 46 of the micon to find one)
5. Grab sync from center pin of s-video
6. Use a switch to connect 5v and blank (more than one pole is necessary to preserve s-video)

Hey Matt,

I have a few questions as a novice modder in reference to the AA-2D Chassis if you have the time.

Do I install .01uf Ceramic Caps into C360/C361/C362 sockets
Where do you run the sync signal to, is it as simple as joining the center pin of sync to the positive leg of C360 Cap with the Y signal?
Following these directions would this properly Mux the OSD, it seems... too simple?
I would reach out to Lanr757 but it seems he hasn't been active in some time, If you have any correspondence with him could you forward it to me, might go a long in helping me.

Trying to theory craft as much as I can before diving in. Appreciate the write up OP

[matt]

I'm also currently attempting this with an AA-2D.

Yes, caps go into the C360/C361/C362 slots.

The sync signal goes to the green (YIN) center pin to the S-video luma sync (just below R233).

This isn't an OSD Mux, BTW.

Matt, I have completed this mod as described below, and I am having the issue of no red colors. My switch is working with +5V and I see the image on Video 1, but I only see Blues/Greens/Yellows. I've double checked all connections - are there any service menu settings that need to be adjusted / enabled with the AA-2D to activate the YPbPr that you know of?

Never seen that one before! The only thing I can think of is the Pr signal is broken somehow. Do you have an oscilloscope? That's the most definitive way to see if the signal is reaching the input pin.