RetroTINK 5x-Pro

[mikechi2]

These CSYNC SCART cables should be fine with the 5X, right?

https://retro-access.com/collections/sc ... -lead-cord

Any idea why the master system and neo geo have issues in particular?

Yes, the ones made in the past few years should all be fine. Although I have a soft spot for sync-on-composite for when you want to switch to using the composite line instead of RGB

Unknown right now. MVS1C conversions and Neo Geo CD seem to work fine. Not sure if there is something wrong with the AES or if it was the cable in question. Will know soon and looks like (hopefully) an adjustment to the sync settings in firwmare.

[mikechi2]

Yeah, I wouldn't get too hung up on getting audio in through the same cable. Even for people who don't have external audio solutions or for whatever reason want to feed the audio into the RT5X, there's the two RCA jacks for that. Again, DB15 users are well accustomed to routing audio separately.

We just need the access point! It's kinda sad how there's literally no simple dongle/adapter to go VGA-SCART (there are SCART-VGA ones, but those won't work thanks to the unidirectional nature of SCART, gotta love it). There are cables but shielding on those is dubious. There's also the option of paying $50 for a custom coax cable by RA...

I made one, think I posted a render of it earlier in the thread

Just sell it so I don't have to make one haha.

[maxtherabbit]

Yeah, I wouldn't get too hung up on getting audio in through the same cable. Even for people who don't have external audio solutions or for whatever reason want to feed the audio into the RT5X, there's the two RCA jacks for that. Again, DB15 users are well accustomed to routing audio separately.

We just need the access point! It's kinda sad how there's literally no simple dongle/adapter to go VGA-SCART (there are SCART-VGA ones, but those won't work thanks to the unidirectional nature of SCART, gotta love it). There are cables but shielding on those is dubious. There's also the option of paying $50 for a custom coax cable by RA...

I made one, think I posted a render of it earlier in the thread

Just sell it so I don't have to make one haha.

I will sell some sure, the PCB design is tested and good to go but I need to make some kind of shell for it once I get my 3d printer up and running

[Jefferson]

These CSYNC SCART cables should be fine with the 5X, right?

https://retro-access.com/collections/sc ... -lead-cord

Any idea why the master system and neo geo have issues in particular?

Yes, the ones made in the past few years should all be fine. Although I have a soft spot for sync-on-composite for when you want to switch to using the composite line instead of RGB

Unknown right now. MVS1C conversions and Neo Geo CD seem to work fine. Not sure if there is something wrong with the AES or if it was the cable in question. Will know soon and looks like (hopefully) an adjustment to the sync settings in firwmare.

Thanks Mike! So it sounds like only one person tried an AES console and hit the issue? Can’t wait to try it out myself.

[mikechi2]

These CSYNC SCART cables should be fine with the 5X, right?

https://retro-access.com/collections/sc ... -lead-cord

Any idea why the master system and neo geo have issues in particular?

Yes, the ones made in the past few years should all be fine. Although I have a soft spot for sync-on-composite for when you want to switch to using the composite line instead of RGB

Unknown right now. MVS1C conversions and Neo Geo CD seem to work fine. Not sure if there is something wrong with the AES or if it was the cable in question. Will know soon and looks like (hopefully) an adjustment to the sync settings in firwmare.

Thanks Mike! So it sounds like only one person tried an AES console and hit the issue? Can’t wait to try it out myself.

You're very welcome! Yeah and he's sending the console over to me, so we'll see what's up.

[Tempest_2084]

May have been asked, but how much power via microUSB is needed for this Pro? For instance, I've got my Roku powered from the FIOS STB USB jack, is that good enough, or a separate AC adapter is needed?

< 800 mA over microUSB

Maybe this is a dumb question, but would an old Apple iPhone power supply work (1A/5W)?

[ldeveraux]

May have been asked, but how much power via microUSB is needed for this Pro? For instance, I've got my Roku powered from the FIOS STB USB jack, is that good enough, or a separate AC adapter is needed?

< 800 mA over microUSB

Maybe this is a dumb question, but would an old Apple iPhone power supply work (1A/5W)?

It should, that's a 5V supply with >800mA current. I can't see any mention of voltage requirements, but if it's a micro usb cable then its probably 5V. Someone had better confirm though!

[Josh128]

Mike, maybe I missed it, but projected availability date and tentative price? Surely you can share something.

*Oh crap, got it. Are you taking pre orders?

https://twitter.com/retrotink2/status/1 ... 4220515329

[Tempest_2084]

Looks like I need to get a Micro USB cable to use with this. What variety of Micro USB does the 5X use? I assume it's the standard one like this (https://www.amazon.com/Micro-USB-to-Cable/dp/B004GETLY2)

[Jefferson]

Looks like I need to get a Micro USB cable to use with this. What variety of Micro USB does the 5X use? I assume it's the standard one like this (https://www.amazon.com/Micro-USB-to-Cable/dp/B004GETLY2)

It comes with one:

Package Contents
RetroTINK-5X
IR Remote Control (2 AAA batteries not included)
microUSB Cord
Quick-start Card
Sticker
(Optional, $5) – SCART to composite adapter to convert the SCART port into a second composite input.

[Tempest_2084]

Looks like I need to get a Micro USB cable to use with this. What variety of Micro USB does the 5X use? I assume it's the standard one like this (https://www.amazon.com/Micro-USB-to-Cable/dp/B004GETLY2)

It comes with one:

Package Contents
RetroTINK-5X
IR Remote Control (2 AAA batteries not included)
microUSB Cord
Quick-start Card
Sticker
(Optional, $5) – SCART to composite adapter to convert the SCART port into a second composite input.

Oh great! Thank you!

[Josh128]

Has 480p line doubling to 960p with and without scanlines functions been confirmed? Looking to feed GC to a 1080p plasma.

[Tempest_2084]

Maybe this was answered earlier, but will the PS2 work without having to use something to convert the sync?

[whatamansion]

Will either of these power supplies be fine to use?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017T ... UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0773 ... 0DER&psc=1

[Lawfer]

Will either of these power supplies be fine to use?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017T ... UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0773 ... 0DER&psc=1

Yeah, this is a little confusing, one area in the manual says that the RetroTINK-5X requires 800mA or less and then another part says that it would need at least 1A, but yeah the first one you linked could be good, alternatively you could use a Nintendo Switch AC Adapter (HAC-002) or a PSP Go AC Adapter (PSP-N100).

[Guspaz]

Maybe this was answered earlier, but will the PS2 work without having to use something to convert the sync?

Yes, with component video, which AFAIK works with all PS2 resolutions and has the same quality as the RGB output when used with good cables. If you want to use RGB because you have a full RGB SCART setup or something, the current version of the gscartsw handles automatic conversion for any sync-on-green it encounters.

[Tempest_2084]

Maybe this was answered earlier, but will the PS2 work without having to use something to convert the sync?

Yes, with component video, which AFAIK works with all PS2 resolutions and has the same quality as the RGB output when used with good cables. If you want to use RGB because you have a full RGB SCART setup or something, the current version of the gscartsw handles automatic conversion for any sync-on-green it encounters.

What about a SCART to component converter like the Shinybow (which is what I'm using now)? Or would I be better off just getting component cables? Or maybe an Extron device?

[Lawfer]

The OSSC is 4:4:4, while the RetroTINK-5X Pro is unfortunately 4:2:2 but what's the GBS-C 4:4:4 or 4:2:2?

[mikechi2]

The OSSC is 4:4:4, while the RetroTINK-5X Pro is unfortunately 4:2:2 but what's the GBS-C 4:4:4 or 4:2:2?

Clarification: The RT5X actually takes as many or more luma and chroma samples than standard 4:4:4 ADCs for input resolutions below 720p. This oversampled video stream is handled using a 4:2:2 style datapath for ease of interfacing with memory, but there is no loss of input chroma detail. Technically, a pure 4:4:4 path is better but you would have to have amazing vision to notice it even at close game playing distances.

[fernan1234]

The OSSC is 4:4:4, while the RetroTINK-5X Pro is unfortunately 4:2:2 but what's the GBS-C 4:4:4 or 4:2:2?

Wouldn't that depend on the VGA to HDMI converter you pair with the GBS-C? I've tried using the OSSC as the ADC for the GBS-C and colors are really good as you would expect, better than when using a Monoprice converter that outputs 4:2:2. 4:4:4 output definitely makes a difference, especially on a high quality display. It also seems to allow gain boost (which is pretty important when using scanlines) without crushing colors as much.

[Lawfer]

The OSSC is 4:4:4, while the RetroTINK-5X Pro is unfortunately 4:2:2 but what's the GBS-C 4:4:4 or 4:2:2?

Clarification: The RT5X actually takes as many or more luma and chroma samples than standard 4:4:4 ADCs for input resolutions below 720p. This oversampled video stream is handled using a 4:2:2 style datapath for ease of interfacing with memory, but there is no loss of input chroma detail. Technically, a pure 4:4:4 path is better but you would have to have amazing vision to notice it even at close game playing distances.

So when you have the output of the RetroTINK-5X Pro on your TV, you won't notice a difference between a pure 4:4:4? Just wondering because RetroRGB showed a zoomed-in picture of The Legend of Zelda: A Link to the Past and it showed difference in colors as well as what appears to be noticeable color gradation on the RT5X than on the OSSC:

See:





Just wondering because I can never get accurate sampling phase settings on the OSSC and the RetroTINK-5X Pro seem like a good plug-and-play product if like me you can't get a perfect sampling phase and end-up with a slightly "ghosty" looking picture with the OSSC.

The OSSC is 4:4:4, while the RetroTINK-5X Pro is unfortunately 4:2:2 but what's the GBS-C 4:4:4 or 4:2:2?

Wouldn't that depend on the VGA to HDMI converter you pair with the GBS-C?

Oh, I wasn't planning on using the GBS-C with an Analog to Digital Converter, my TV has a VGA input or I would have just hooked it on a CRT for it's downscaling capabilities.

[mikechi2]

Not sure the images are a good example as there appears to be additional compression (see the horizontal grey bleed) on link's hat that can't come from either scaler.

I also suggest imagining how big Link is on your TV, and stepping back to get a realistic perspective, in which case even the compressed images look great

[Lawfer]

Not sure the images are a good example as there appears to be additional compression (see the horizontal grey bleed) on link's hat that can't come from either scaler.

I see, that makes sense, wondering what these greyish vertical lines were, guess I'll get one and see it for myself, best way to form an opinion, thanks a lot.

[TooBeaucoup]

Although, you can see there are differences, as Bob pointed out in his stream, he feels the differences are negligible considering you're not viewing your games blown up to 800%. Bob, Voultar as well as other reputable people on Twitter who all have one already have said it's phenomenal and these people are not shy pointing out when there are legit issues with products.

[Lawfer]

Although, you can see there are differences, as Bob pointed out in his stream, he feels the differences are negligible considering you're not viewing your games blown up to 800%.

Yes I know, as he mentioned there were just zoomed-in screenshots for comparison sake, you wouldn't view the small detail differences under normal gameplay.

Bob, Voultar as well as other reputable people on Twitter who all have one already have said it's phenomenal and these people are not shy pointing out when there are legit issues with products.

Just wondering how it stacks up compared to a pure 4:4:4 scaler, is all.

[fernan1234]

Oh, I wasn't planning on using the GBS-C with an Analog to Digital Converter, my TV has a VGA input or I would have just hooked it on a CRT for it's downscaling capabilities.

I wouldn't worry about it if it's a direct VGA connection, though not sure how your TV handles it with it not being an analog display. Also the GBS-C has some slight but noticeable bleeding problems with some colors.
edit: should clarify the color bleed is a limitation of the GBS board itself, not a flaw of the GBS-C firmware.

Although, you can see there are differences, as Bob pointed out in his stream, he feels the differences are negligible considering you're not viewing your games blown up to 800%. Bob, Voultar as well as other reputable people on Twitter who all have one already have said it's phenomenal and these people are not shy pointing out when there are legit issues with products.

Not having 4:4:4 is not an issue, it's a technical limitation and on paper it would be ideal to have it just to have more room to get closer to optimal results, but I also agree that your eyes + your favored display are the best way to test how much or little this matters.

[TooBeaucoup]

Although, you can see there are differences, as Bob pointed out in his stream, he feels the differences are negligible considering you're not viewing your games blown up to 800%.

Yes I know, as he mentioned there were just zoomed-in screenshots for comparison sake, you wouldn't view the small detail differences under normal gameplay.

Bob, Voultar as well as other reputable people on Twitter who all have one already have said it's phenomenal and these people are not shy pointing out when there are legit issues with products.

Just wondering how it stacks up compared to a pure 4:4:4 scaler, is all.

Oh, I totally get it. It was certainly something that I wanted clarification on as well.

[Greg2600]

love that it comes with a remote!

[Lawfer]

Also the GBS-C has some slight but noticeable bleeding problems with some colors.

Hum interesting, I wasn't aware.

[Guspaz]

Maybe this was answered earlier, but will the PS2 work without having to use something to convert the sync?

Yes, with component video, which AFAIK works with all PS2 resolutions and has the same quality as the RGB output when used with good cables. If you want to use RGB because you have a full RGB SCART setup or something, the current version of the gscartsw handles automatic conversion for any sync-on-green it encounters.

What about a SCART to component converter like the Shinybow (which is what I'm using now)? Or would I be better off just getting component cables? Or maybe an Extron device?

That all seems overcomplicated when the PS2 natively outputs YPbPr, and the 5X Pro is natively a YCbCr scaler (well, AFAIK all scalers are, I think?). I don't know why you'd add extra steps beyond maybe a component switch like the gcompsw. The shinybow's specs don't make any mention of sync-on-green, and I doubt it supports it, so unless you've tested to the contrary, if you have a PS2 connected to the Shinybow connected to anything else, I'd imagine you'll lose video if the PS2 outputs 480p. That's not a problem with component.

The RT5X supports both SCART and YPbPr inputs, for that matter. Hook your RGB SCART consoles to the SCART input, hook your YPbPr component consoles to the component input. You don't really need to switch to all one or all the other, you can just use both.