Mister FPGA what combo goes best with my set-up?

[Rock Man]

I own:

Retro Game Room

Sony PVM M2U20
Male RGB Euro SCART to 4 BNC + Audio Cable (With Built-In Sync Stripper)
6X2 Shinybow SCART Matrix Switcher
Male to Male SCART Cables (3 roughly)
A bunch of classic consoles with RGB support

Modern Game Room

Vizio Plasma TV
Framemeister
XRGB-3
(plan on buying the OSSC Pro later)

Desires are to:

Play the Mister FPGA on the PVM
Play in SCART RGB
reserve the option to play in HDMI
Turn the power off on the Mister device via power button led (My understanding is default you must unplug it but there's an add-on with a power button)
Plug in a USB controller (360, Xbox One, X360 Fightsticks)
WiFi & Internet
USB or SD Card slot

Now from what I've read on the device there are parts I can get separately that can do all of this. But I'm having trouble figuring out what's the best combo? The only thing I know for sure is I need the DE-10 Nano, the RAM Module, and some sort of fan.

I thought about getting this:

http://arcadeforge.net/Mister-Projects/ ... anguage=en

and/or this:

https://misterfpga.co.uk/product/mister ... -with-fan/

Question is, with the I/O Board would it be better for my set-up to just grab a VGA (Can't recall the proper name for the end that goes into the I/O board is that Dsub15?) to SCART cable and call it a day? Like the one from here:

https://www.retrorgb.com/retro-access-m ... cable.html

Or should I grab the SCART solution from Arcadeforge? So far I'm leaning I/O board but I want a second opinion. If for example I were to get the SCART PCB From forge what are my options for a fan? Would you guys recommend I grab anything else?

[Gara]

I'd go with the Retro Access DB15 to Scart cable and regular IO board. Your Mister will have a much bigger footprint with the scart version. Especially if you're using a scart cable with rigid coax cabling. The DB15 goes straight in, while the scart version will stick way out to the side.

Since you didn't mention wanting to use original controllers, I'd go with the USB hub, standard IO board, 128gb Ram, and the De10 nano. Most sellers of the I/O board also include a simple fan. You can swap in a Noctua if you'd like. The inline power switch is also a good addon.

The only big variable is your hub choice. Blisster makes a good alternative if you're interested in their adapter system. There was another option called the LLCoolJoy, but I don't think that project ever came to light.



https://misterfpga.co.uk/product/usb-hu ... ster-fpga/

https://misterfpga.co.uk/product/mister ... -with-fan/

https://misterfpga.co.uk/product/mister ... mb-module/

https://misterfpga.co.uk/product/mister ... er-switch/

[Rock Man]

I'd go with the Retro Access DB15 to Scart cable and regular IO board. Your Mister will have a much bigger footprint with the scart version. Especially if you're using a scart cable with rigid coax cabling. The DB15 goes straight in, while the scart version will stick way out to the side.

Since you didn't mention wanting to use original controllers, I'd go with the USB hub, standard IO board, 128gb Ram, and the De10 nano. Most sellers of the I/O board also include a simple fan. You can swap in a Noctua if you'd like. The inline power switch is also a good addon.

The only big variable is your hub choice. Blisster makes a good alternative if you're interested in their adapter system. There was another option called the LLCoolJoy, but I don't think that project ever came to light.



https://misterfpga.co.uk/product/usb-hu ... ster-fpga/

https://misterfpga.co.uk/product/mister ... -with-fan/

https://misterfpga.co.uk/product/mister ... mb-module/

https://misterfpga.co.uk/product/mister ... er-switch/

This is helpful. I'll go with the DB15 to SCART from Retro Access then purchase all the usual suspects. The Noctua fan is the one that comes with the on/off button? I may go that route.

Finally I considered asking about original controller support but I didn't want to make the post to big; still it is something I'm interested in being able to use Saturn and Mega Drive controllers. What might they call this device? I'm assuming it fits perfectly with the DE-10, I/O Board, and Noctua Fan.

[thebigcheese]

This is helpful. I'll go with the DB15 to SCART from Retro Access then purchase all the usual suspects. The Noctua fan is the one that comes with the on/off button? I may go that route.

Finally I considered asking about original controller support but I didn't want to make the post to big; still it is something I'm interested in being able to use Saturn and Mega Drive controllers. What might they call this device? I'm assuming it fits perfectly with the DE-10, I/O Board, and Noctua Fan.

The fan is just a fan. The IO board typically comes with a fan installed on it, but you can swap in any fan you like. Many people choose Noctua because they are quiet, but that's the only reason to change the fan. The power switch isn't a button, it's just a switch on the power cable itself. It isn't terribly convenient, but it's better than having to unplug everything. Regarding using original controllers, as Gara wrote, the Blisster seems to be the most popular option there, but I believe it takes the place of the USB hub board, so that is a potential factor. Don't quote me on that, though; I don't use a Blisster or original controllers at all (just using 8bitdo stuff), so I don't know how that all works.

[Osirus]

You can use a SNAC to connect original controllers to the IO board instead of the Blisster board. It's quite a bit cheaper. You still need the Blisster cables for each controller type though.

[Overkill]

Just to add: If you are looking for the IO Board just because of the analog video output, you can just use an cheap HDMI to VGA adaptor and enable "direct Video" on MiSTer ini file. Most of the Cores are already updated to use this feature, and you will get even better color depth in some cores.

You can add an IO Board later, if you feel the need to.

[buttersoft]

Doesn't the HDMI output allow greater colour depth? So, in mister.ini you enable direct video and composite sync, and then get one of the $3 VGA converters they recommend. The fact the converters are able to handle 1080p at whatever quality basically means they're far faster than required to convert 240p, and the results are stunning. You need a VGA-to-BNC cable as well, in your case. Or VGA-to-SCART if you go that way.

Any converter that looks like one of these will work, but a lot of others will too - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-HDMI-Mal ... 2749.l2649

EDIT: oH wait, the post right above mine says all this, lol.

I'm using one of the converters, and the super cheap USB hub they recommend. I have a friend who's going to print me a case to put it all in, which is the sticking point with this setup.

[Gara]

I'd go with the Retro Access DB15 to Scart cable and regular IO board. Your Mister will have a much bigger footprint with the scart version. Especially if you're using a scart cable with rigid coax cabling. The DB15 goes straight in, while the scart version will stick way out to the side.

Since you didn't mention wanting to use original controllers, I'd go with the USB hub, standard IO board, 128gb Ram, and the De10 nano. Most sellers of the I/O board also include a simple fan. You can swap in a Noctua if you'd like. The inline power switch is also a good addon.

The only big variable is your hub choice. Blisster makes a good alternative if you're interested in their adapter system. There was another option called the LLCoolJoy, but I don't think that project ever came to light.



https://misterfpga.co.uk/product/usb-hu ... ster-fpga/

https://misterfpga.co.uk/product/mister ... -with-fan/

https://misterfpga.co.uk/product/mister ... mb-module/

https://misterfpga.co.uk/product/mister ... er-switch/

This is helpful. I'll go with the DB15 to SCART from Retro Access then purchase all the usual suspects. The Noctua fan is the one that comes with the on/off button? I may go that route.

Finally I considered asking about original controller support but I didn't want to make the post to big; still it is something I'm interested in being able to use Saturn and Mega Drive controllers. What might they call this device? I'm assuming it fits perfectly with the DE-10, I/O Board, and Noctua Fan.

I don't use a Blisster, but from what I understand it takes the place of the usb hub. In exchange for a couple usb ports you get a couple hdmi ports. Blisster uses custom controller cables on the two ports. My information may be out if date, but I believe the Blisster support requires an alternative fork of mister. It has its own automatic update script the last time I looked.

Snac is also an option. I believe the limitation there is that the controller adapters are locked to the core. So Genesis snac works on Genesis and Genesis only. So you can't go using a single controller for every core.

The best feature of the I/O board is dual output. If you're rocking a pvm along with a modern screen then you can probably appreciate the utility.


Links!

Blisster:
https://misterfpga.co.uk/product/blisster-v2/

Blisster adapters:
https://bliss-box.net/store/Bliss-Box-C ... -p65613202

Snac:
https://misterfpga.co.uk/product/mister ... -adapters/

Controller latency tests(this will help pick a controller/adapter) :
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... p=drivesdk

Discussion of the analog IO vs the digital:
https://twitter.com/MisterAddons/status ... 08578?s=19

[Osirus]

Know that Blisster requires the IO board in order to function. So if you get Blisster you need that as well.

[shroom2k]

Know that Blisster requires the IO board in order to function. So if you get Blisster you need that as well.

No, it doesn't. I used it as a regular USB hub for months before I got the IO board.

[Rock Man]

I'm gonna skip the noctua fan since noise doesn't bother me (if I can ignore a fan on the OG Xbox I can ignore the default I/O fan) I feel like my best bet is the basic set-up. I'll just buy a USB Saturn controller and fightstick and call it a day. For the time being I can always buy the Blisster later. Would the SNAC or the Blisster need to be soldered?

Just to add: If you are looking for the IO Board just because of the analog video output, you can just use an cheap HDMI to VGA adaptor and enable "direct Video" on MiSTer ini file. Most of the Cores are already updated to use this feature, and you will get even better color depth in some cores.

You can add an IO Board later, if you feel the need to.

Doesn't the HDMI output allow greater colour depth? So, in mister.ini you enable direct video and composite sync, and then get one of the $3 VGA converters they recommend. The fact the converters are able to handle 1080p at whatever quality basically means they're far faster than required to convert 240p, and the results are stunning. You need a VGA-to-BNC cable as well, in your case. Or VGA-to-SCART if you go that way.

Any converter that looks like one of these will work, but a lot of others will too - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-HDMI-Mal ... 2749.l2649

EDIT: oH wait, the post right above mine says all this, lol.

I'm using one of the converters, and the super cheap USB hub they recommend. I have a friend who's going to print me a case to put it all in, which is the sticking point with this setup.

EDIT: I'm having second thoughts... are you guys saying that I can connect an HDMI cable from the Nano or a controller hub? Then from there daisy-chain HDMI to VGA converter into VGA to SCART? I am a videophile so any suggestion to boost the quality on some cores is enticing. If the noctua fan doesn't need to be soldered I can go the VGA adapter route. But my understanding is the I/O board also comes with WiFi or am I mistaking that for another add-on board for the Mister? I hope I won't have to choose between the WiFi vs better colors in cores.

[Fudoh]

You can get around without the i/o board, but the dual output functionality, HDMI and analogue outputs at the same time are pretty neat, even if you might not need it initially. The i/o board also provides you with the possibility to output 15khz, 31khz in both RGB and component and it's really the easiest way to get various types of sync for RGB (like RGBS for Scart or RGBHV for VGA). All this can get pretty complicated if you want to go with a solo-nano board and HDMI out only.

If you plan on using the full range of supported titles on the Nano a 2-screen setup with even a small LCD is useful, since the HDMI output will provide you with an upscaled and normalized output even if you run into video issues on the analogue out (for example when running cores with non-standard refresh rates).

In short: do yourself a favor and don't cheap out on the initial setup. The i/o board is useful.

Wifi can by provided through an USB dongle. The regular i/o board does not include it.

[Rock Man]

You can get around without the i/o board, but the dual output functionality, HDMI and analogue outputs at the same time are pretty neat, even if you might not need it initially. The i/o board also provides you with the possibility to output 15khz, 31khz in both RGB and component and it's really the easiest way to get various types of sync for RGB (like RGBS for Scart or RGBHV for VGA). All this can get pretty complicated if you want to go with a solo-nano board and HDMI out only.

If you plan on using the full range of supported titles on the Nano a 2-screen setup with even a small LCD is useful, since the HDMI output will provide you with an upscaled and normalized output even if you run into video issues on the analogue out (for example when running cores with non-standard refresh rates).

In short: do yourself a favor and don't cheap out on the initial setup. The i/o board is useful.

Wifi can by provided through an USB dongle. The regular i/o board does not include it.

To be on the safe side I'll get both the I/O + the VGA/HDMI adapter. I planned out the budget for an I/O board and the VGA/HDMI adapter is cheap as dirt anyway. If I have both I'll at least have the option of swapping between the two methods.

As for dual output it's not a huge deal to me only because my PVM and my 50 inch Vizio ways a ton and would be too much to move either into the others room. Cool to know I have that feature though, perhaps some day I'll move one of them for some dual screen action!

Definitely picking up that USB dongle.