XRGB-2 Power Switch Repair

[gatsu25]

For some time now, I have had a finicky power switch on my XRGB-2. For a while, I was essentially fixing the switch in place while powering the unit via a power strip switch.

Recently I adjusted the switch since it became finicky again, and smelled a burning plastic smell. After powering the unit down, I was unable to power it back on. Upon opening up the unit and inspecting it, the smell was due to a short and plastic melting on the pole switch (Image), with no other damage visibly present on the board. Messing around a little more and I was able to power the unit if I hold the power switch juuust right. The tolerance is quite small, and will not hold its position by itself.

I found a thread that recommended this type of pole switch. Looking at the image, it seems like this is something that I would have to jump the wires to mimic the switch that was originally in the unit. Beyond this difficulty, removing the 30 pin switch on a fragile board without a proper desoldering iron seems risky at best.

Would it be possible to simply cut the pins that hold the pole switcher, jump the necessary leads, and force the unit into an always on state, so that I can continue using a power strip to power on the unit, while also avoiding another shorting risk? If so, is there a schematic or diagram or any information that would help me decipher what pins needed to be connected to achieve this?

Is there a more eloquent method that I am not aware of?

While we are on the subject, the power supply has always been somewhat hot when the unit is running. Should I simply be using another one, or is there some kind of adjustment I can make to help it run cooler?

[thchardcore]

I would also like to know.

[Strider77]

That switch replacement works fine, You don't need to worry about the top having additional connecting points.

You can pull out the push pole inside the switch and then clean the inside connectors with a q-tip or something. Keep in mind that pole on the inside has many small parts that can be a bitch to get back together correctly if you knock stuff off. I've managed to clean it myself... you do have to give it a good tug to get it out. I ordered that replacement switch also.

[gatsu25]

That switch replacement works fine, You don't need to worry about the top having additional connecting points.

You can pull out the push pole inside the switch and then clean the inside connectors with a q-tip or something. Keep in mind that pole on the inside has many small parts that can be a bitch to get back together correctly if you knock stuff off. I've managed to clean it myself... you do have to give it a good tug to get it out. I ordered that replacement switch also.

Thanks for the information. I'm sure I was overthinking it.

I found some info on an older Japanese blog and then checked continuity with it switched off and on. I found that my 13.8V line was the only thing not connected when the switch was in the engaged position.

If I want to use it without replacing the switch yet, would there be a problem with me simply jumping these 2 pins and activating the unit through the power strip? My intention was to not use the PC pass through while it's jumped like that, but is there actually any danger in doing so?

He mentions that the off position pin on the 13.8V line is the only pin not used, so it makes me wonder if actually would be fine to use it as a monitor through.

[Strider77]

I imagine that would work.... power was the same issue with mine. It was tarnish that had crept into the inside of the switch. I actually haven't used the replacement switch I ordered and just scrapped the inside clean of the OG one.

[gatsu25]

Success! I jumped the power pins, reflowed some iffy solder joints, and gave it a good clean. Now it's working fine switching from the adapter.

I'm not using the passive input although I still think it would most likely be ok.

Thanks for the help