Problems with PCB
Problems with PCB
Got Mr. Driller G recently, just tried it. The screen displays graphics garbage, looks like scrambled cable pr0n (seems to be going through the startup and attract scenes properly though).
I know the pcb is hooked up to the s. gun. properly because the component/solder side is clearly labeled on the connector.
$500 down the drain any ideas?
I know the pcb is hooked up to the s. gun. properly because the component/solder side is clearly labeled on the connector.
$500 down the drain any ideas?
Nah, they're equally screwed as the rest of the picture, my bad. I just meant that the problem was with the video display rather than the PCB as I see crap going on in the backgroundValgar wrote:Test and attract are showing up? Go into the TEST menu and into the graphics section. Try changing the interlace off.
Just cleaned all the jamma edge prongs with a pencil eraser. Didn't do the trickDave_K. wrote:Check that the Compoiste Sync tooth on the Jamma edge connector is clean.Neon wrote:More like when you're using a tv and you barely get the station, the way the screen scrolls.
Thanks for the replies all. I emailed Matt, hope he responds.
Got Batrider today and it's doing the same thing. New phenomenon though: Sometimes the picture will stop rolling. But then it looks like a mirage, you know the things you see in the desert, wavy effect, and the PCB is frozen, you can't insert coins, etc.
I can't adjust the power supply, there isn't a knob anyway. Didn't Matt make anyone else a supergun?
I'll send a $10 MO to the suggestion that fixes the problem. Seriously.
I have pictures, if that helps.
I can't adjust the power supply, there isn't a knob anyway. Didn't Matt make anyone else a supergun?
I'll send a $10 MO to the suggestion that fixes the problem. Seriously.
I have pictures, if that helps.
Hey Neon, don't know if this will help, but I also got a batrider pcb this week, and when I hooked it up to my cab, the picture was doing this weird rolling/waving thing (sounds similar to your description loosing sync). I was about to send the board back, but then threw in battle bakraid (which used to work fine) and had the same problem. Finally found out it was just the v.hold control on the monitor that had to be adjusted. I don't know what the refresh rate is on raizing boards, but the cab seemed to display a stable picture with DDP pcb. I also had Viper Phase 1 in recently, so that may have been when I tweaked the v.hold just out of range for the raizing boards.
So if you can't adjust the vertical hold on your monitor, you may be screwed for games that don't output exactly 60hz from your supergun.
So if you can't adjust the vertical hold on your monitor, you may be screwed for games that don't output exactly 60hz from your supergun.
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thegreathopper
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Re: Problems with PCB
$500 for Mr Driller G, I sold one of these a few weeks ago for $50.. I think you were robbed..Neon wrote:Got Mr. Driller G recently, just tried it. The screen displays graphics garbage, looks like scrambled cable pr0n (seems to be going through the startup and attract scenes properly though).
I know the pcb is hooked up to the s. gun. properly because the component/solder side is clearly labeled on the connector.
$500 down the drain any ideas?
Re: Problems with PCB
Well, when you throw in the cost for the monitor, supergun, and batrider...thegreathopper wrote:$500 for Mr Driller G, I sold one of these a few weeks ago for $50.. I think you were robbed..Neon wrote:Got Mr. Driller G recently, just tried it. The screen displays graphics garbage, looks like scrambled cable pr0n (seems to be going through the startup and attract scenes properly though).
I know the pcb is hooked up to the s. gun. properly because the component/solder side is clearly labeled on the connector.
$500 down the drain any ideas?
DaveB: You might be right...however it doesn't seem like there's a way to adjust v. hold on commodore 1084's...if there is, someone correct me please!
If its like the 1080, there should be a control (second from the left).Neon wrote:You might be right...however it doesn't seem like there's a way to adjust v. hold on commodore 1084's...if there is, someone correct me please!
http://bboah.claunia.com/1080.html
[edit] after googling newsgroups, seems the 1084 doesn't have external controls...so may have to open up the case and adjust from the inside...which seems pretty difficult from what I'm reading...
Found more info. The 1084 is a fixed frequency 15.75khz monitor with support for 50hz (PAL) and 60hz (NTSC). Apparently your model is only ment to be used at those refresh rates. I still read that it should be adjustable if you open up the monitor, but you'd have to study a circuit diagram and hope there is a pot there to adjust it. Problem is you'd have to do this for every game you play as each game uses slightly different refresh rates.
So bottom line is the 1084 is not a good PCB/Arcade gaming monitor. Playing home consoles that output RGB only at 60hz is fine. The 1080 looks more suited to PCB use.[/edit]
Great, thanks buddy. PM your addressDave_K. wrote:If its like the 1080, there should be a control (second from the left).Neon wrote:You might be right...however it doesn't seem like there's a way to adjust v. hold on commodore 1084's...if there is, someone correct me please!
http://bboah.claunia.com/1080.html
[edit] after googling newsgroups, seems the 1084 doesn't have external controls...so may have to open up the case and adjust from the inside...which seems pretty difficult from what I'm reading...
Found more info. The 1084 is a fixed frequency 15.75khz monitor with support for 50hz (PAL) and 60hz (NTSC). Apparently your model is only ment to be used at those refresh rates. I still read that it should be adjustable if you open up the monitor, but you'd have to study a circuit diagram and hope there is a pot there to adjust it. Problem is you'd have to do this for every game you play as each game uses slightly different refresh rates.
So bottom line is the 1084 is not a good PCB/Arcade gaming monitor. Playing home consoles that output RGB only at 60hz is fine. The 1080 looks more suited to PCB use.[/edit]
I'll ebay for a 1080, unless someone can recommend something better.
Do, I don't mind, saved me a lot of headache.Dave_K. wrote:Heh, thats ok, my advice is free.Neon wrote: Great, thanks buddy. PM your address
Could you test the supergun out on a normal tv?
Can't test it on a normal TV as I don't have the proper cable. Just the db9 cable. I hear making cables is easy though, I'll look it up later.
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cigsthecat
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I'm guessing your 1084S is really a 1084DS? As the DS version is the one with the db9 connector (the 1084 or 1084S has a 6 or 8 pin DIN connector only from what I'm reading).Neon wrote:Found a 1080 - only problem is it looks like the DB9 connection is male rather than the 1084S female. Should be easy to find an adapter, no? But will the pins correspond to the same points?
Anyway, the pinouts between 1084DS and 1080 look the same, so yes a simple radioshack DB9 male/female converter should work.
http://www.hardwarebook.net/connector/av/c1084dd.html
http://bboah.claunia.com/1080.html
Does your RGB cable go to a DB9 or DIN connector to your 1084S?cigsthecat wrote:I have a 1084s + Matt made supergun- works fine with Batrider. I don't know what the problem is, but it must be something else.
If it was adjustable, I'd say check that too with a multimeter (make sure +5v is acurate) but Neon says he doesn't see any adjustment for it, so I'm assuming its self regulating?cigsthecat wrote: Maybe a power supply issue?
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llaoyllakcuf
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