Linuxbot3000 YPbPr to SCART Converter

[NewSchoolBoxer]

So has anyone done a comparison of RGB2Comp vs Shinybow 2840?

I'd like to see this. Ideally screenshots compared to reference title screen on accurate emulator and between the RGB and the Comp for each device. Signal to noise ratio, maybe even THD, would be amazing. Helpful to check 240p/480i + PAL, 480p + PAL, 720p, 1080i if possible. Higher resolution greatly increases the bandwidth and impedance so a transcoder good at one resolution could take a hit on another. I never thought comparisons only using 240p/480i were fair. PAL uses more bandwidth and alternates phase on half the video so may give different quality from NTSC.

Living in Georgia, costs for these are:

linuxbot3000 RGB SCART to YPbPr: $65.34 [$50 + $10 shipping from New Zealand + $5.34 GA sales tax]
RGB2COMP: ................................... $78.98 [$69.99 +$8.89 shipping]
ani-av Shinybow 2840: .................. $86.90 [$75.20 + $11.70 FedEx 3 days cheapest option. Lets you use FedEx business account if you have one.]

For no sales tax, surely you will pay use tax when you file.
If you factor in PCB + $6-12 in chips + cheap connectors + container, prices aren't bad but DIY becomes an option.

[Tempest_2084]

I'd like to see this as well. I'm currently using a Shinybow with my KV-27FS100, but I think the picture could be better. Someone suggested the Retrotink RGB2COMP and said it was way better than the Shinybow, but I've seen other reports saying it's exactly the same. I've also had the Linuxbot3000 unit suggested to me which is how I came to find this thread. Ideally I'd like to see pictures of all three units side by side, but I'd settle for some firsthand experiences.

[cyborc]

I'd like to see this as well. I'm currently using a Shinybow with my KV-27FS100, but I think the picture could be better. Someone suggested the Retrotink RGB2COMP and said it was way better than the Shinybow, but I've seen other reports saying it's exactly the same. I've also had the Linuxbot3000 unit suggested to me which is how I came to find this thread. Ideally I'd like to see pictures of all three units side by side, but I'd settle for some firsthand experiences.

The Retrotink and Linuxbot are both way better than the Shinybow. i've owned all three. While I don't have any direct comparisons, here are a few pictures of the Linuxbot on the same model TV you have (27FS100)

https://imgur.com/a/qGIfCxt

[Tempest_2084]

I'd like to see this as well. I'm currently using a Shinybow with my KV-27FS100, but I think the picture could be better. Someone suggested the Retrotink RGB2COMP and said it was way better than the Shinybow, but I've seen other reports saying it's exactly the same. I've also had the Linuxbot3000 unit suggested to me which is how I came to find this thread. Ideally I'd like to see pictures of all three units side by side, but I'd settle for some firsthand experiences.

The Retrotink and Linuxbot are both way better than the Shinybow. i've owned all three. While I don't have any direct comparisons, here are a few pictures of the Linuxbot on the same model TV you have (27FS100)

https://imgur.com/a/qGIfCxt

Looks nice. I've heard of some issues with the Linuxbot unit but nothing but praise for the Retrotink. Have you heard of any issues with the Linuxbot unit? I'd be using this with a wide variety of systems.

BTW I see you're using a Neo Geo with the Linuxbot. How is the overscan? I lose almost an inch on each side with my Shinybow if I have the picture adjusted so my other systems are fully onscreen (Genesis, SNES, NES, etc.). Someone told me that the severe overscan issue might be due to the Shinybow shifting the picture a bit.

[cyborc]

I'd like to see this as well. I'm currently using a Shinybow with my KV-27FS100, but I think the picture could be better. Someone suggested the Retrotink RGB2COMP and said it was way better than the Shinybow, but I've seen other reports saying it's exactly the same. I've also had the Linuxbot3000 unit suggested to me which is how I came to find this thread. Ideally I'd like to see pictures of all three units side by side, but I'd settle for some firsthand experiences.

The Retrotink and Linuxbot are both way better than the Shinybow. i've owned all three. While I don't have any direct comparisons, here are a few pictures of the Linuxbot on the same model TV you have (27FS100)

https://imgur.com/a/qGIfCxt

Looks nice. I've heard of some issues with the Linuxbot unit but nothing but praise for the Retrotink. Have you heard of any issues with the Linuxbot unit? I'd be using this with a wide variety of systems.

BTW I see you're using a Neo Geo with the Linuxbot. How is the overscan? I lose almost an inch on each side with my Shinybow if I have the picture adjusted so my other systems are fully onscreen (Genesis, SNES, NES, etc.). Someone told me that the severe overscan issue might be due to the Shinybow shifting the picture a bit.

No issues at all with the linuxbot, just make sure you use a good usb-c power supply. I use the canakit one that's marketed for the rpi4. These pictures are actually from a MiSTer, and not real hardware. I have the linuxbot vga variant, not scart. I believe the issues mentioned somewhere around here was with the scart version.

[Tempest_2084]

I believe the issues mentioned somewhere around here was with the scart version.

You mean the Component to SCART version?

[strygo]

If you were doing a converter shoot out, it would be great to include the Audio Authority 9A60 as well.

[cyborc]

I believe the issues mentioned somewhere around here was with the scart version.

You mean the Component to SCART version?

the scart to component version.

[Tempest_2084]

I believe the issues mentioned somewhere around here was with the scart version.

You mean the Component to SCART version?

the scart to component version.

Ah, that would be the version I need. Hmm... Maybe I'll just stick with the Retrotink device then.

[mikechi2]

I have no experience with the Shinybow device (their stuff also looks like it was designed in the 90s), but there should be little difference between the RetroTINK and Jam's (Linuxbot).

The limiting factor is your CRT/cabling, not a brand new piece of electronics. Your time is better spent playing games than trying to make comparisons, which will almost certainly be confounded by the quality of your display.

[Tempest_2084]

The limiting factor is your CRT/cabling, not a brand new piece of electronics. Your time is better spent playing games than trying to make comparisons, which will almost certainly be confounded by the quality of your display.

I've always wondered how good/bad my cables are, but I really don't know how you test that short of getting some super high quality expensive ones and seeing if there's a difference.

[kitty666cats]

The limiting factor is your CRT/cabling, not a brand new piece of electronics. Your time is better spent playing games than trying to make comparisons, which will almost certainly be confounded by the quality of your display.

I've always wondered how good/bad my cables are, but I really don't know how you test that short of getting some super high quality expensive ones and seeing if there's a difference.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYELZXE?re ... b_ap_share

^ these ones from Amazon aren’t too shabby. You can find good ones on eBay, I suggest keeping an eye out for thicker looking ones, or flat ribbon-style - also gold plated is usually a good sign