Ikegami TM20-90RH help

[Yardley]

Hi all, I just bought an Ikegami TM20-90RH and I am having trouble connecting any RGB source to it. I own a TM20-20 and an HTM20-50 so I know about changing the setting in the menu between YPbPr/RGB but unfortunately that is not what is wrong here. I tested the monitor with my PS2 through component and that looks great but when connecting my SNES through RGB it looks terrible, the colors are all wrong (yes I switched the setting to RGB in the menu). Below are two links with the specs in case anyone can spot any useful information. The sync details seem interesting but I am not an expert on this topic.

http://editcam.ikegami.com/br/products/ ... 0_spec.pdf

http://editcam.ikegami.com/br/products/sdtv/tm2090.html

[darcagn]

Can you post a pic of a well known game so we can see how it looks?

I own the TM20-80RH, which should be very similar to yours, and I can't really think of a reason you couldn't just switch from YPbPr to RGB and have it work.

[Yardley]

Can you post a pic of a well known game so we can see how it looks?

I own the TM20-80RH, which should be very similar to yours, and I can't really think of a reason you couldn't just switch from YPbPr to RGB and have it work.

Sure, here you go. I agree, I have never seen a problem like this with my other Ikegami monitors or any of my other PVM's for that matter. It just refuses to work with an RGB source but has no issues with component. Even a PS2 set to component displays fine and when I switch it to RGB both in the PS2 menu and Ikegami menu the colors go haywire.

[Kez]

I have had issues similar to that before with a BVM.. it ended up being fixable by the CLP P DLY which I think is something to do with the horizontal sync clamping.. I am not sure if there is a corresponding setting on Ikegami monitors. It's a longshot but do you have a 75ohm terminator on your sync line?

[Classicgamer]

I initially thought it might have been a sync related issue as he was not using a scart to BNC adapter with a built in sync strike but he has the same issue with all RGB sources including his PC.

It makes sense as a next step to open it up and follow the RGB lines checking for dry solder joints or anything else out of place. That greenish tint that is apparently unaffected by any of the hue, chroma and color balance controls could be explained by a loose wire internally.

If it was a 75 ohm / 1kohm issue, with the source cable, it would be the same issue with his other monitors. In my experience (with the same monitor), not having 75ohm termination results in excessive brightness, not color balance issues. The excess load warning light would come on too.

[Kez]

Yeah like I said it's a longshot, but if you look carefully it's not a tint uniformly across the image, there are weird streaks after areas of high contrast which makes me think it's a clamping issue. Termination on the colour lines would cause brightness issues, but I was asking about sync.

[Yardley]

I have had issues similar to that before with a BVM.. it ended up being fixable by the CLP P DLY which I think is something to do with the horizontal sync clamping.. I am not sure if there is a corresponding setting on Ikegami monitors. It's a longshot but do you have a 75ohm terminator on your sync line?

I had issues displaying 480p on my Sony PVM-20L5 that I was also able to fix by tweaking the LCP P DLY value! I don't see such an option in the Ikegami menu, it's actually very basic consisting of only 5 pages. See link to pics below, I took a shot of every page. Regarding the termination, I also tried piggy backing a small Sony monitor off of the Ikegami to make sure that issues wasn't a faulty terminator but that didn't fix the problem. You can see a pic of the Sony looking great being fed RGB through the Ikegami and the Ikegami looking very bad. There's no green tint in that pic because I was tweaking the RGB values and gain but that isn't the problem here, I still can't get it anywhere close to looking normal and like you said, there are other issues like streaking/bleed.

https://imgur.com/a/6DWLczz

[Classicgamer]

It has a lot of automation in these monitors. For rare instances where the auto factory color reset does not return the display to the desired state, it has a separate device (probe) for more in-depth calibration.

I don't think it is worth investing in the probe or anything else. The colors are infinitely adjustable with the pots and draw controls. If you can't use them to balance the colors then there is a physical problem.

The fact that the other connections work fine is also a good indication of a problem somewhere on the RGB lines.

If there was a green tint with all connections, I'd be looking for magnetic sources near the screen like speakers and I would try deguasing but it's just with RGB. The only way I can replicate the problem is by half pulling out the RGB cable so some of the colors don't connect...

[Yardley]

It has a lot of automation in these monitors. For rare instances where the auto factory color reset does not return the display to the desired state, it has a separate device (probe) for more in-depth calibration.

I don't think it is worth investing in the probe or anything else. The colors are infinitely adjustable with the pots and draw controls. If you can't use them to balance the colors then there is a physical problem.

The fact that the other connections work fine is also a good indication of a problem somewhere on the RGB lines.

If there was a green tint with all connections, I'd be looking for magnetic sources near the screen like speakers and I would try deguasing but it's just with RGB. The only way I can replicate the problem is by half pulling out the RGB cable so some of the colors don't connect...

Yeah I think it might be time for a visit to the shop. Where does one find the factory reset? If you look at the pics of the menu I posted there is nothing of the sort to be found.