Need help with NES RGB install issues

[DadicusPrime]

Hello,

I am experiencing two problems after my first NES RGB install and would REALLY appreciate some help.

- It is in an NTSC top loader
- I am using an 8 pin din connector and a 3.5 mm jack for audio
- RF out is still intact and usable... could the NES RGB output + the RF out still existing be causing excess heat?
- I had to gently bend the big capacitor at the rear left of the console (when looking at it from the front) away from the back of the console in order to make a little more room for the 3.5mm jack and 8 pin din jack. I did gently bend it away, and it wasn't a ton.

Problem #1: I only get audio out of the 3.5 jack if I have a controller plugged in. In other words... if no controller is plugged in there is no audio.

Problem #2 (the bigger problem of the two): the video is perfect but after about 15-20 minutes the graphics start slowly deteriorating (sprites glitching and things turning odd colors) until the NES just resets on its own. Here are pictures showing progressive graphical degradation that starts after playing about 15-20 minutes (so definitely seems to be heat induced):

https://imgur.com/gallery/6tCeflN

If I let it sit for a while and come back I can play another 15-20 minutes before the problem re-occurs. Could the two problems be related?

I am willing to supply additional pictures, quickly answer any questions, and perform any testing that I am able to do.

Thanks in advance for any help.

[Mobiusstriptech]

You would get more help by posting pictures of the install. However, I am guessing you didn't wire in the second regulator or didn't set the onboard jumper to use it. The frontloaders will overheat trying to run the console and the NESRGB board from the OEM 7805. The heatsink is miniscule.

Your other issue sounds like a weird grounding error. Again, install pictures would be most beneficial.

[DadicusPrime]

You would get more help by posting pictures of the install. However, I am guessing you didn't wire in the second regulator or didn't set the onboard jumper to use it. The frontloaders will overheat trying to run the console and the NESRGB board from the OEM 7805. The heatsink is miniscule.

Your other issue sounds like a weird grounding error. Again, install pictures would be most beneficial.

So I may have figured out the audio issue... somehow (beyond me) I have the wires going to CPU 1 and CPU 2 crossed and touching each other. I'm guessing that would cause the strange issue where audio only works if I plug in a controller? I'm going to fix it later tonight and re-test:

Spoiler

As far as the overheating issue... I'm confused because any mention of the voltage regulator on the etim.net.au site only mentions it in relation to the 'original' NES or the 'front-loading' NES. There is no mention of it in the AV Famicom / top loader instructions. Also, the NES RGB kit that I received from etim.net.au didn't come with the voltage regulator board. Is that something I would have to order separately directly from etim.net.au or is there some other way to solve it without waiting for the long shipping time? Pictures:

Spoiler

Thanks again for any help or advice!!

[Mobiusstriptech]

Sorry that's my bad. I misread your post and was thinking you had the front loader. You won't need the other voltage regulator. So if you have an overheating issue then it's going to be more serious. The toploader has a large heatsink. Before the install did you have any issues with this unit?

[Mobiusstriptech]

Actually I just looked at your picture since it doesn't show automatically. Where did you put the heatsink?

[Syntax]

Hes running it without the heatsink.

[Kez]

Just to be clear OP, here is a random pic I found online:



That big metal thing with a 5 on it is the heatsink, in your picture that is missing. Did you take it out? Or was it not there in the first place?

Either way, if you're running without it that's almost certainly the cause of your problem.

[DadicusPrime]

Just to be clear OP, here is a random pic I found online:



That big metal thing with a 5 on it is the heatsink, in your picture that is missing. Did you take it out? Or was it not there in the first place?

Either way, if you're running without it that's almost certainly the cause of your problem.

Thanks everyone - I actually left it out... I thought it was an RF shield for some reason and it is in the way of my 8 pin din and 3.5 mm hacks : /

Pic:

Spoiler

... looks like I'm going to have to cut into it. I assume others have done this before and cutting off a chunk on the top won't cause heat issues? It is a pretty big heat sink.

[DadicusPrime]

Gah.. I picked a bad spot for those jacks. Even if I cut the heat shield away it's going to be a biatch to route the wires coming off the back of them around the heat shield. I didn't take the heat shield into account when choosing the location of them.

Any tips?

I now see the wisdom of installing the 8 pin din and 3.5 mm jacks where the RF out and 3/4 channel switch are. I just wasn't sure about removing them. Can the RF box just be completely removed without causing any issues?

[Mobiusstriptech]

Yes RF can be removed. Just a general question that doesn't matter now, why not just get a multiout panel? It greatly simplifies everything. That aside, you will probably need to lengthen your wires.

[DadicusPrime]

Yes RF can be removed. Just a general question that doesn't matter now, why not just get a multiout panel? It greatly simplifies everything. That aside, you will probably need to lengthen your wires.

Just poor planning. I ordered the kit and ordered a 8 pin din scart cable to go with it before I understand you can install a multi-out. Since I was already on for the 35 dollars or so for the cable I decided to roll with it.

I think either way I will need to cut into the shield - I did give myself a little slack on the cable so I may not need to lengthen them.

[DadicusPrime]

I cut into the heat shield to make some room and have it closed up and working 100%. Played for about 45 mins with no issues.

Thanks for everyone’s help!

Pic with some of the heat shield cut out:

Spoiler

[DadicusPrime]

Yes RF can be removed. Just a general question that doesn't matter now, why not just get a multiout panel? It greatly simplifies everything. That aside, you will probably need to lengthen your wires.

Do you know if there is any downside to leaving the stock NES RF enabled?

[Mobiusstriptech]

The video is going to be black and white because of the NESRGB. If you want to have color you will need to disconnect the original composite video and connect it from the NESRGB. Other than that, there is no issue with having it.

[Syntax]

Or wire the pallet switch to off.