OEM PSUs from 8-16 bit consoles, are unregulated linear power supplies because those were the cheapest to manufacture. I don't know about PlayStation/Saturn/N64 and later. Unregulated is a big deal since they don't have good control over keeping voltage output constant. I wasn't able to find a single unregulated wall wart PSU on Mouser or Digikey but I did find a few from Jameco made in China. Costs a little more to add a regulator to PSU output for big performance gain.Lopenator wrote:Is the triad psu still considered a good choice? How about even over OEM? I have both and can't decide what I should use. I notice my SNES runs cooler when I use the Triad as opposed to when I use my OEM recapped PSU. What psu do you use?
The classic deviation between linear and switching mode PSUs, I understand through the distinction in voltage regulators. Linear is very low noise but very power inefficient and therefore run very hot. Linear regulators need heat sinks. They are simple in design and therefore very cheap at < $1 for good quality.
Switching mode uses an electrical switch (relay) to change the width of a voltage pulse. Circuit is more complicated and needs an inductor to smooth out current. Costs more, about $4 for an all-in-one circuit voltage regulator. Is far more power efficient, like 90% vs linear 50%. Heat sink not a must. Every PSU I listed is switching, can tell just from the efficiency. Downside besides cost is the switching generates electrical interference (noise) that hopefully the PSU capacitors are able to filter out.
Lowest noise strat is using them together by switching regulator feeding linear regulator for best of both worlds. I haven't seen done IRL but have seen reference to existing in computer PSUs.
I would only use regulated switching PSUs except I also have nostalgia of using official crap while I can. OEM PSUs can be recapped if you're hardcore. Can use passive adapters to have one PSU be compatible with multiple console barrel sizes. Except Saturn PSU is internal so got to feed mains AC.
I disagree that 500mV is fine and I have same Electrical Engineering degree from good ABET university. Even ceramic caps get aged from ripple current. That said, I think he's very smart and knowledgeable from his blog posts. Can I ask how you, RetroRGB Bob and Voultar all seem to know him? Does he post here or on Reddit? I don't see any contact information on HDRetrovision website. Does he slide into your DMs when you break 1k YouTubs subs? I'm being sarcastic but Mike Chi posts here and he's the only other person I know with EE degree. In his case BS and PhD.FBX wrote: Ste went on to give me details on how to set up a testing rig with the scope and a beefy 10 Ohm resistor (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/3886586). His recommendation is anything 500mV and under is perfectly fine. However, looking up the datasheet for a Triad 9V 2A PSU, I found the ripple and noise MAXIMUM was already listed at 150mV pk-pk. So there's your answer. It falls well under the safe range.