Ikegami ASP-15 probe

[jamon1567]

Wondering if anyone has any experience using the Ikegami ASP-15 probe? I have both it and an Ikegami TM20-20RH monitor (for which the probe was made for), but for the life of me I can't figure out what my problem is. Using the video below as a reference, I can get only as far as when it is setting up the background/contrast on the red colored box. In the video below it flashes through it a few times before moving on, but for mine it just keeps trying it for several minutes before erroring out and telling me to check probe settings. I opened up the probe and see a batter, so maybe that needs to be replaced? Not sure where else to go with this as I can't find any helpful resources online, so hoping maybe someone here can help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qO0eYm-ip8

[Classicgamer]

Wondering if anyone has any experience using the Ikegami ASP-15 probe? I have both it and an Ikegami TM20-20RH monitor (for which the probe was made for), but for the life of me I can't figure out what my problem is. Using the video below as a reference, I can get only as far as when it is setting up the background/contrast on the red colored box. In the video below it flashes through it a few times before moving on, but for mine it just keeps trying it for several minutes before erroring out and telling me to check probe settings. I opened up the probe and see a batter, so maybe that needs to be replaced? Not sure where else to go with this as I can't find any helpful resources online, so hoping maybe someone here can help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qO0eYm-ip8

I have an Ikegami TM20 - 90RH. It may just be because that model does most of the calibration automatically but I am not 100% clear what you are trying to achieve or why you are attempting to use a spectrophotometer?

All that stuff was to make a monitor comply with specific color specifications for editing in the broadcast and motion picture industry. There is no requirement to comply with any standard for video games.

I remember people in the print industry using spectrophotometers for brand control in my consulting days. The spectrophotometers also need to be calibrated for accuracy and my guess is that any old kit you pick up hasn't been calibrated in some time anyway.

A better approach, imo, with these monitors is to put on your favorite game and adjust the image to your liking which is all that really matters.

When I factory reset my TM20-90RH, it does all the calibration automatically but the results are far from optimal for gaming. At least for my taste anyway. I prefer a cooler image so Ryu's clothes in SF2 look white instead of beige.

[jamon1567]

I should add though that I just went into the user settings and there appear to be 3 saved, so I don't think it's an issue with the battery at this point.

[jamon1567]

Wondering if anyone has any experience using the Ikegami ASP-15 probe? I have both it and an Ikegami TM20-20RH monitor (for which the probe was made for), but for the life of me I can't figure out what my problem is. Using the video below as a reference, I can get only as far as when it is setting up the background/contrast on the red colored box. In the video below it flashes through it a few times before moving on, but for mine it just keeps trying it for several minutes before erroring out and telling me to check probe settings. I opened up the probe and see a batter, so maybe that needs to be replaced? Not sure where else to go with this as I can't find any helpful resources online, so hoping maybe someone here can help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qO0eYm-ip8

I have an Ikegami TM20 - 90RH. It may just be because that model does most of the calibration automatically but I am not 100% clear what you are trying to achieve or why you are attempting to use a spectrophotometer?

All that stuff was to make a monitor comply with specific color specifications for editing in the broadcast and motion picture industry. There is no requirement to comply with any standard for video games.

I remember people in the print industry using spectrophotometers for brand control in my consulting days. The spectrophotometers also need to be calibrated for accuracy and my guess is that any old kit you pick up hasn't been calibrated in some time anyway.

A better approach, imo, with these monitors is to put on your favorite game and adjust the image to your liking which is all that really matters.

When I factory reset my TM20-90RH, it does all the calibration automatically but the results are far from optimal for gaming. At least for my taste anyway. I prefer a cooler image so Ryu's clothes in SF2 look white instead of beige.

It is supposed to auto calibrate the white balance and color. It's really just a nice to have though as there are steps in the operation manual about how to do it manually and it doesn't seem too difficult. I'd like to get this probe to work though nonetheless.

[Classicgamer]

Fair enough. I guess I can't really comment on the need as the TM20-90rh model arrives perfect and can be reset to perfect caliber ration with a single button. So it is easy for me to say it is not needed.

I haven't spent much time with the TM20-20 and the TM20-80. My understanding is that it is like the difference between a BVM and a PVM.

[jamon1567]

The 20 and 80 are 700 line and the 90 is 900 line. Other than that, not sure of the differences.

[Classicgamer]

The 20 and 80 are 700 line and the 90 is 900 line. Other than that, not sure of the differences.

The 90rh was their top model in that series. It cost around 3 times as much although, like almost every other display manufacturer, they never did a very good job of explaining where your extra money went.

As you said, the pitch is finer on the 90 which allows it to display 900 vertical lines instead of 800 for 80rh and 700 for their 20rh. The rest of the differences in the specs elude me.

They describe it as a "high end Grade-I master monitor" but they don't really explain what makes the 90 high end vs the 20 being a "general purpose broadcast monitor".

My guess is that, most people would only be able to see the difference with a test pattern on screen. If I was paying retail, I seriously doubt I would have paid that much extra to get the 90. Not for video games anyway. I'd like to see them side by side some time though.

[jamon1567]

According to the link below (and from reading the linked operations manuals), the 20RH and 80RH are both 700 line, while the 30RH and 90RH are 900 line. I would assume either the 80 and 90 phased out the 20 and 30 or the 80 and 90 just had better options (hardware/software wise) for tweaking the picture. Regardless, my 20 is a great monitor and I love it, but I'd love it more if I could get this damn probe to work

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/wiki ... ikegami.3A

[Classicgamer]

According to the link below (and from reading the linked operations manuals), the 20RH and 80RH are both 700 line, while the 30RH and 90RH are 900 line. I would assume either the 80 and 90 phased out the 20 and 30 or the 80 and 90 just had better options (hardware/software wise) for tweaking the picture. Regardless, my 20 is a great monitor and I love it, but I'd love it more if I could get this damn probe to work

https://www.reddit.com/r/crtgaming/wiki ... ikegami.3A

They have all the specs in detail on the Ikegami site. They don't really highlight the key differences though. I've never understood that.

If I wanted to sell two similar looking items but one is three times the price, I would expect to explain why.

Whatever it is, I am sure it doesn't matter. All Ikegami RGB monitors are good.