I recommend this HDMI Equipment for OSSC + 4K60 18Gbps

[KentaZX]

So i got myself an xbox series X and im thinking of getting a new TV that has HDMI2.1 and that can play nice with OSSC and the different resolutions for each old consoles. would you say LG CX fits the role? Or do you know any Samsung TV that works well and thats 49-50"?

[DirkSwizzler]

Main complaints are:
...
4. My Xbox One X seems to take over anything else plugged in when it is in standby mode. However, this is fixed by totally powering down, or.... I'm just gonna take the Xbox One X out in a couple days when I have an Xbox Series X (which I will be plugging that directly into my receiver)

This has been my experience with a regular Xbox One. I believe the problem is that the Xbox consoles do not cut 5V output over HDMI when in standby/quick-resume/whatever; since that is what I believe these automatic switchers are looking for, the Xbox appears to the switcher to always be powered on, even when it logically isn't to you or me.

Yeah. This has been my experience as well. There's definitely a setting in the XBone to make it fully power off. And I have that enabled to ensure my switching plays nice at all times.

[TheSwartz]

So i got myself an xbox series X and im thinking of getting a new TV that has HDMI2.1 and that can play nice with OSSC and the different resolutions for each old consoles. would you say LG CX fits the role? Or do you know any Samsung TV that works well and thats 49-50"?

See my post a few above yours to see that I am using an OSSC with multiple different consoles. Some of them may be what you're using. I am still not as knowledgeable as I want to be, but, as far as I can tell, all of these are playing nicely with an LG CX and I'm happy.

One update to that post is, that I now have a PS5 and XBSX set up as well. However, for those, I have them connected directly to the LG CX (not through the HDMI switcher discussed in that post). Then, from there, I have audio going back to my receiver via eARC (FYI set digital audio output on the TV to pass-through). With this setup, I am able to get the Dolby Atmos audio back to my receiver. I think it is a specific problem for my set up, but the Xbox One X and Xbox Series X don't seem to play well with my Denon Receiver and this is the only way to bitstream Dolby Atmos.

One more comment related to this. For 4K UHD 120 Hz on the XBSX to the LG CX, you will want 48 Gbps rated cables. I did find some long cables that are cheaper than the Monoprice ones I mentioned. I have not used these, not quite long enough for my long run but it's what Vincent Teoh has recommended.

Lastly, you may read about a glitch with 4K UHD AND 120 Hz AND VRR between the LG CX and XBSX. According to Vincent Teoh, this seems fixed with the latest beta firmware, so expect that pushed out soon.

[Leviathan_GX]

I need an automatic HDMI switcher, preferably 4k 60hz compatible, that does NES - 240p X5 - 1920|1080p.. Already tried one of the first 3 listed & it didn't work! Also tried a Monoprice 4k & a Kinvio 4K.. No Luck! Yes, my NES has the Dejitter mod..

[DirkSwizzler]

I need an automatic HDMI switcher, preferably 4k 60hz compatible, that does NES - 240p X5 - 1920|1080p.. Already tried one of the first 3 listed & it didn't work! Also tried a Monoprice 4k & a Kinvio 4K.. No Luck! Yes, my NES has the Dejitter mod..

Hmm. Maybe the guts of the switcher changed. Do you have a product link of which one you bought?

Did you also run the diagnostic tests to ensure it's *just* the switch causing the incompatibility? Running your NES 5X directly to the display (no other equipment in the chain at all). And then adding *only* the switch.

HDMI device compatibility defies a normal amount of logic. And sometimes requires extensive testing to root out a subtle incompatibilites between just 2 devices. I have many examples of devices that work great on their own but simply don't work together for whatever reason.

[Octo-King]

Any recommendation for an HDMI switcher that's compatible with the Xbox one X and PS4 Pro (I guess this also goes for the PS5 and XSX) to use on the LG CX? I was using the TESmart switcher with my LG C8 with absolute no issues. But when I hook it up to my CX, it only passes through as 1080p even though the sources are 4K. I've tried turning off and on every new setting on the CX (auto low latency, freesync, and deep color) and still nothing. It sometimes won't even pass audio through. Any help is appreciated

[nmalinoski]

Any recommendation for an HDMI switcher that's compatible with the Xbox one X and PS4 Pro (I guess this also goes for the PS5 and XSX) to use on the LG CX? I was using the TESmart switcher with my LG C8 with absolute no issues. But when I hook it up to my CX, it only passes through as 1080p even though the sources are 4K. I've tried turning off and on every new setting on the CX (auto low latency, freesync, and deep color) and still nothing. It sometimes won't even pass audio through. Any help is appreciated

1) Does your switcher advertise 4K30 or 4K60 support?
2) If #1, are you using a cable with a Premium High Speed rating between the switcher and display?

[Fudoh]

The step from 18gbps (4K60, e.g. running on a C8) to HDMI 2.1 with 40+ gbps is insane. HDMI equipment these days gets outdated at an incredible rate. The CX probably triggers current consoles to output at a rate that easily exceeds what a switcher could do two years ago.

[Octo-King]

Any recommendation for an HDMI switcher that's compatible with the Xbox one X and PS4 Pro (I guess this also goes for the PS5 and XSX) to use on the LG CX? I was using the TESmart switcher with my LG C8 with absolute no issues. But when I hook it up to my CX, it only passes through as 1080p even though the sources are 4K. I've tried turning off and on every new setting on the CX (auto low latency, freesync, and deep color) and still nothing. It sometimes won't even pass audio through. Any help is appreciated

1) Does your switcher advertise 4K30 or 4K60 support?
2) If #1, are you using a cable with a Premium High Speed rating between the switcher and display?

The switch is defnitely 4K60. I bought a 2.1 48gbps cable to have it be the output to help isolate the problem and hope it fixes it. It's cheaper than buying a new switch too. I'll keep you guys updated.

[DirkSwizzler]

To my knowledge, there are no HDMI 2.1 switches yet. If anyone finds one, please do let the thread know.

I have a feeling that we're past due to switch from HDMI to Displayport as the main way to handle digital video & audio. So if anyone finds an automatic Displayport switch (not a manual KVM). I'd be interested in knowing about it.

[Octo-King]

2.1 cable did not solve the issue. I'll be buying one of the switchers on the original post to see if it helps.

[ldeveraux]

Not sure if this is within the scope of your thread @DirkSwizzler, but I need an audio extractor that removed the audio from the HDMI path and outputs 3.5mm stereo (or RCA). I have a multiport HDMI switch where one of the hdmi ports volume is far louder than the others. I already have an audio mixer that can control the volume if I can extract ultimately to 3.5mm. I tried the ViewHD Audio Extractor from this thread (and the J-Tech Digital which I also have) and they both output the audio I'd like, but also output the HDMI audio. Is there an extractor that will take HDMI and output video ONLY to HDMI and ONLY audio to another output?

Thanks!

[DirkSwizzler]

I believe you'll need an audio injector/embedder to kill off the hdmi audio.

I haven't tried it. But simply leaving the analog or spdif input disconnected on the embedder should replace the audio with nothing. With an spdif embed being closer to actual nothing, and an analog embed being a noisier version of quiet.

[ldeveraux]

I believe you'll need an audio injector/embedder to kill off the hdmi audio.

I haven't tried it. But simply leaving the analog or spdif input disconnected on the embedder should replace the audio with nothing. With an spdif embed being closer to actual nothing, and an analog embed being a noisier version of quiet.

Oh that method makes sense to me, I'd still need to use it in conjunction with the splitter though.

What about either of these that claim to de-embed the audio from video streams? In theory either should work?
https://octavainc.com/hdmi-1x2-distribu ... converter/
https://atlona.com/product/at-hd570/

[DirkSwizzler]

I believe you'll need an audio injector/embedder to kill off the hdmi audio.

I haven't tried it. But simply leaving the analog or spdif input disconnected on the embedder should replace the audio with nothing. With an spdif embed being closer to actual nothing, and an analog embed being a noisier version of quiet.

Oh that method makes sense to me, I'd still need to use it in conjunction with the splitter though.

What about either of these that claim to de-embed the audio from video streams? In theory either should work?
https://octavainc.com/hdmi-1x2-distribu ... converter/
https://atlona.com/product/at-hd570/

While I haven't tried those specifically. De-embedders/extractors generally pass along the audio on HDMI as well as extracting it. But it sounds like you want the HDMI to have no audio. Which requires overwriting the audio stream. Which is generally what injectors/embedders are for.

[Octo-King]

2.1 cable did not solve the issue. I'll be buying one of the switchers on the original post to see if it helps.

Update: HDMI switch (linked in top post) came in yesterday and solved all problems. Turns out the original switch had HDMI handshake issues.

[ldeveraux]

I believe you'll need an audio injector/embedder to kill off the hdmi audio.

I haven't tried it. But simply leaving the analog or spdif input disconnected on the embedder should replace the audio with nothing. With an spdif embed being closer to actual nothing, and an analog embed being a noisier version of quiet.

Oh that method makes sense to me, I'd still need to use it in conjunction with the splitter though.

What about either of these that claim to de-embed the audio from video streams? In theory either should work?
https://octavainc.com/hdmi-1x2-distribu ... converter/
https://atlona.com/product/at-hd570/

While I haven't tried those specifically. De-embedders/extractors generally pass along the audio on HDMI as well as extracting it. But it sounds like you want the HDMI to have no audio. Which requires overwriting the audio stream. Which is generally what injectors/embedders are for.

After buying and testing the injector (it worked!) I completely forgotten I use an HDMI to VGA/stereo converter for my monitor KVM switch combo. All I had to do was route the stereo through the audio mixer and volume is now easily adjusted. Man, wish I'd remembered that before I bought the extra gear!

[djc5166]

I also came across https://github.com/fenderle/esphome-vorke-hd41 the other week, which I thought was a cool mod. So I'll take that for a run sometime soon. I've also ordered some CC2530's to attempt the same thing but on Zigbee.

Anyway, I e-mailed fenderle, because I noticed he was on the newer firmware version. He too had issues flashing the new firmware like everyone here. He ended up getting another unit, backing up that firmware with an ST-Link and restoring that to the broken one. Then doing the loop of flashing, trying, restoring if it was broken until it worked. It eventually worked and he backed the working upgrade up with the ST-Link and restored that to the other. So I bought an STM32 programmer.

So you CAN flash the firmware, it MAY work, maybe. But just get an STM32 programmer like an ST-Link to take a backup first, and make sure you can restore it. You can't use the websites updated firmware via the STM32 programmer. But you can restore a backup you make. Who else is game?

I also got the firmware dump from fenderle and programmed it to my switches with my STM32 programmer.

I have absolutely no idea how he got the actual update to work, I tried a bunch myself and it would just fail every time. But programming his dump with the programmer works with no issues.

It seems to have fixed or at least reduced the sync drops I was having with both the DC Digital and PS1 Digital boards, wish there was a changelog published with what actually is changed with these firmwares.

[Lux]

Lately the Sgeyr apparently stopped dropping 4K. It's been long since I noticed it, and if it happens I just turn it off and on using the remote and it comes back. However I must stress that signal detection with 1080p devices is hit or miss. I had trouble with my Switch some time ago, doing 4K 1080p switching. I tried again today (PS4 Pro Switch) and it went well though. I also tried to switch from my Apple TV 4K to my 1080p Blu-ray player and it didn't work. I had to turn the TV off and on to get the signal. It's an issue but I'm willing to put up with it considering that these switches work without power supplies and I have no room left for them on my power strips.

[Lodey]

What causes audio drift with HDMI switches? I have the Kinivo model listed in the first post, been thinking it's the reason why over time my audio desyncs to about a second late, and continues to drift off. It's really weird, only resetting it fixes it.

[Einzelherz]

I picked up the SGEYR this past week, and it seems to work fine for my 1080p needs. I'm currently using it on passive power (not plugged in) cause I'm lazy and don't want to use a plug spot. In my mild testing, the only thing I found was that it wouldn't auto switch to my PC input from my always-on Gamer Legends Pro puck (which I have in the lowest priority slot). I assume that means that my video card is constantly sending a 5v signal even when it's not set to display to that port?

[nmalinoski]

In my mild testing, the only thing I found was that it wouldn't auto switch to my PC input from my always-on Gamer Legends Pro puck (which I have in the lowest priority slot). I assume that means that my video card is constantly sending a 5v signal even when it's not set to display to that port?

Possibly. In my experience, the one time I had an autoswitching issue with one of my SGEYRs is when I had unplugged its power adapter; it wouldn't automatically switch to the Xbox One, which always has its 5V turned on. I assume that means that the Xbox One didn't supply enough power to run the switcher.

Also, these switchers don't really have any kind of port priority. Perhaps on first boot; but, if you've got it powered on full-time, they switch to the next sequentially-numbered port (wraps around back to 1) that has an active signal.

[Lux]

I always have the Sgeyr remote at hand because it won't automatically switch to my Apple TV. It happens with some devices.

[Emerl]

I got an SGEYR and have some issues with it. When one console is long for 4ish hours, switching of any kind stops working. When it's been off for a couple days, turning on a console leads to no video signal or switching. The only way to get it working again is by plugging in the power adapter. I am using it on passive power, as I'm out of ports on my surge protector.

[nmalinoski]

I got an SGEYR and have some issues with it. When one console is long for 4ish hours, switching of any kind stops working. When it's been off for a couple days, turning on a console leads to no video signal or switching. The only way to get it working again is by plugging in the power adapter. I am using it on passive power, as I'm out of ports on my surge protector.

I had problems with one of mine when [mistakenly] unplugged. I wouldn't expect power from HDMI devices to be reliable, so I wouldn't recommend using it passively.

[DirkSwizzler]

I got an SGEYR and have some issues with it. When one console is long for 4ish hours, switching of any kind stops working. When it's been off for a couple days, turning on a console leads to no video signal or switching. The only way to get it working again is by plugging in the power adapter. I am using it on passive power, as I'm out of ports on my surge protector.

I had problems with one of mine when [mistakenly] unplugged. I wouldn't expect power from HDMI devices to be reliable, so I wouldn't recommend using it passively.

Hmm. But passive power is my ideal use case. I'll add a YMMV notice to the top post later today.

[Emerl]

I got an SGEYR and have some issues with it. When one console is long for 4ish hours, switching of any kind stops working. When it's been off for a couple days, turning on a console leads to no video signal or switching. The only way to get it working again is by plugging in the power adapter. I am using it on passive power, as I'm out of ports on my surge protector.

I had problems with one of mine when [mistakenly] unplugged. I wouldn't expect power from HDMI devices to be reliable, so I wouldn't recommend using it passively.

Hmm. But passive power is my ideal use case. I'll add a YMMV notice to the top post later today.

In case it's relevant, it was a Mega SG, Super NT, MiSTer, and PS3 plugged into the SGEYR, which is plugged directly into an LG CX OLED.

[Lux]

I had my SGEYRs behaving strangely with 1080p signals so I only use them for 4K devices (but I also have two powered Monoprice 8X1 1080p switches, so I can afford to leave empty ports on my SGEYRs).

[anexanhume]

After reading this thread, it appears there’s no universally recommended switcher with more than 5 inputs, and no recommended splitter with more than 4 outputs. Is that right? Does the answer change if the max signal I’ll be using is 1440p60?

[DirkSwizzler]

After reading this thread, it appears there’s no universally recommended switcher with more than 5 inputs, and no recommended splitter with more than 4 outputs. Is that right?

That would appear correct. And I'm not sure there's universal recommendation for anything at all. HDMI is a finnicky beast.

Does the answer change if the max signal I’ll be using is 1440p60?

1440p was never part of my testing. My experience with HDMI devices is that they're most likely targeting standard television resolutions. Anything else isn't a priority. So if many port support for 1440p were my focus. And no 4k devices were good enough. I would look for 1080p devices that fit the bill and cross my fingers that they also support 1440p.

But, to be clear, it's all a roll of the dice. Frustration is just part of the search.