My receiver won't output 240p via HDMI

[ldeveraux]

If your sources all offer RGB you don't need it ahead of the OSSC and if your TV works with all output resolutions you want to use from the OSSC than you don't need it after the OSSC either.

Well, not all systems. Until the new GCVideo arrives, my NGC is still composite. The Atari 7800 doesn't output RGB so it's composite as well. The XBOX and Wii are both component. The PS3 and XBOX 360 are HDMI. All of these directly into the receiver.

For RGB outputting systems, the iScan would be useless? How about the other systems?

[Fudoh]

Well, not all systems. Until the new GCVideo arrives, my NGC is still composite.

then you wait. You don't want composite from a native 480p source.

You can connect XBox and Wii to the OSSC as well (via component). This way you utlize 960p output from the OSSC *IF* your TV is compatible with that.

The Atari 7800 doesn't output RGB so it's composite as well.

Then you can try to connect the Atari to the iScan. You would usually connect the iScan's output to the receiver. Did this cause any compatibility issues for you ? If so, you can also connect the iScan to the OSSC's VGA input instead.

[ldeveraux]

The Atari 7800 doesn't output RGB so it's composite as well.

Then you can try to connect the Atari to the iScan. You would usually connect the iScan's output to the receiver. Did this cause any compatibility issues for you ? If so, you can also connect the iScan to the OSSC's VGA input instead.[/quote]

I attached my Atari 7800 to the composite input of the iScan HD+, which I sent via DVI/HDMI converter directly to my TV. There seems to be interference somewhere as there are wavy lines traveling up the screen. Needless to say, it looks worse than my simple composite/HDMI converter...

[Fudoh]

I attached my Atari 7800 to the composite input of the iScan HD+, which I sent via DVI/HDMI converter directly to my TV. There seems to be interference somewhere as there are wavy lines traveling up the screen. Needless to say, it looks worse than my simple composite/HDMI converter...

interference like this is caused by the PSUs of your machines. I would recommend to get rid of the iScan. Sell it to somebody that needs downscaling to 240p. It's very solid machine for that.

If you're non-RGB sources are important, maybe look into the Retrotink 2x. The key feature here compared to your generic composite to HDMI converter is that it doesn't mistreat 240p as 480i. But in the end it's you're just polishing a turd. There is only so much you can expect from a composite source.

[ldeveraux]

I attached my Atari 7800 to the composite input of the iScan HD+, which I sent via DVI/HDMI converter directly to my TV. There seems to be interference somewhere as there are wavy lines traveling up the screen. Needless to say, it looks worse than my simple composite/HDMI converter...

interference like this is caused by the PSUs of your machines. I would recommend to get rid of the iScan. Sell it to somebody that needs downscaling to 240p. It's very solid machine for that.

If you're non-RGB sources are important, maybe look into the Retrotink 2x. The key feature here compared to your generic composite to HDMI converter is that it doesn't mistreat 240p as 480i. But in the end it's you're just polishing a turd. There is only so much you can expect from a composite source.

I'm not expecting much from a system I rarely use and never looked great to begin with. It would just be nice to have it SCART like the rest, or at least component. Does the Retrotink only output HDMI? Not really the direction I'm looking to go.

[nmalinoski]

Does the Retrotink only output HDMI? Not really the direction I'm looking to go.

Yes, the RT2X only outputs HDMI, as its primary intention is for allowing SD sources using composite, S-Video, and YPbPr component to be used on modern, HDMI-only displays; however, it can be paired with something like a Portta HDMI to VGA converter (These supposedly do not crush blacks like the cheaper, smaller adapters) for RGBHV output, which is very useful when trying to use S-Video and composite sources with an OSSC (without having to find a unicorn in the wild, like a Kramer FC-4044/FC-4040). The RT2X can additionally be set to a pass-through mode for 15kHz output.

Unfortunately, you'd need yet another device or cable with a sync combiner (Like an Extron RGB interface) and probably also a passive BNC or VGA to SCART adapter in order to get RGBS over SCART.

The cleanest implementation for decoding composite to RGB would have to be one of those unicorns, like the FC-4044, since there are no longer plain analogue RGB decoders on the market. You would connect the composite via an RCA to BNC adapter, then use a BNC to SCART adapter (possibly with one of those inline attenuators; I don't recall if this thing outputs TTL or 75Ohm sync) for output directly to a SCART switch or TV or whatever.

If you want YPbPr component, you'd need something like this, which appears to force scaling (it's not a plain transcoder); or something like this, which tends to need disassembly and tweaking to get the colors right.

[ldeveraux]

Does the Retrotink only output HDMI? Not really the direction I'm looking to go.

Yes, the RT2X only outputs HDMI, as its primary intention is for allowing SD sources using composite, S-Video, and YPbPr component to be used on modern, HDMI-only displays; however, it can be paired with something like a Portta HDMI to VGA converter (These supposedly do not crush blacks like the cheaper, smaller adapters) for RGBHV output, which is very useful when trying to use S-Video and composite sources with an OSSC (without having to find a unicorn in the wild, like a Kramer FC-4044/FC-4040). The RT2X can additionally be set to a pass-through mode for 15kHz output.

Unfortunately, you'd need yet another device or cable with a sync combiner (Like an Extron RGB interface) and probably also a passive BNC or VGA to SCART adapter in order to get RGBS over SCART.

The cleanest implementation for decoding composite to RGB would have to be one of those unicorns, like the FC-4044, since there are no longer plain analogue RGB decoders on the market. You would connect the composite via an RCA to BNC adapter, then use a BNC to SCART adapter (possibly with one of those inline attenuators; I don't recall if this thing outputs TTL or 75Ohm sync) for output directly to a SCART switch or TV or whatever.

If you want YPbPr component, you'd need something like this, which appears to force scaling (it's not a plain transcoder); or something like this, which tends to need disassembly and tweaking to get the colors right.

Wow, that's a lot of info. Way too much money/effort to put into a 7800, but good to know there's a solution/bandaid until Tim gets around to the RGB. I guess I'll be selling my iScans...

[ldeveraux]

I've gotten a PAL Gamecube and SCART cable attached now. IS the RGB from SCART meant to look better than the standard composite cables? Because it really doesn't. Is there something I should be doing with the OSSC to fix this? I've enabled the scan2x...

[ldeveraux]

I attached my Atari 7800 to the composite input of the iScan HD+, which I sent via DVI/HDMI converter directly to my TV. There seems to be interference somewhere as there are wavy lines traveling up the screen. Needless to say, it looks worse than my simple composite/HDMI converter...

interference like this is caused by the PSUs of your machines. I would recommend to get rid of the iScan. Sell it to somebody that needs downscaling to 240p. It's very solid machine for that.

If you're non-RGB sources are important, maybe look into the Retrotink 2x. The key feature here compared to your generic composite to HDMI converter is that it doesn't mistreat 240p as 480i. But in the end it's you're just polishing a turd. There is only so much you can expect from a composite source.

I just upgraded my 7800 to S-Video output using the board from our buddy at AtariAge. I got it working and looks great, even tuned the color using the pot on the board. But when I run it through the Retrotink, I occasionally get video and sound, but usually nothing, regardless of the button combinations on the Retrotink. I have the Tink going directly to my HDMI input on the TV. I contacted him and he's not sure how I could get this working properly, so I came back here. Funny thing is when I plug the S-Video into my cheapo Monoprice S-Video to HDMI converter, it shows up, if not with a wavy distorted signal. I thought the Tink would be perfect for this application, any clue what I'm doing wrong?