shmups.system11.org

Success! Don't think it looks too bad. Button isn't as 'clicky' as the original, but far better than having to stick a finger in.

I noticed the original power button had sort of a metal connection on it, picture:



Any idea what it is, and if it's something to worry about?

Final question, does anyone happen to know which slot on the input board the tally light goes into? I've got two, marked J and S3, it's the only thing I didn't make a note of. I think it's J.

Cheers

Looks like some sort of ESD discharge thing the way it's positioned. Never noticed it myself.

Which button design did you end up using?

Used the one from your site, just had to slightly widen the mount part, but it works great.

Anyone any idea on the tally light?

Hey Guys ,

I have recently picked up a Jvc dtv 1710 monitor it has a fantastic picture when using my Neo Geo Aes and GameCube , But when I try connecting my sigma raijin supergun for arcade boards I get a bend in the picture at the top of the screen , I have an rgb scart cable from the supergun going straight to a female scart to rgb with sync separator , Any help or suggestions are welcome to try resolve this issue .

Thanks ,

I have a JVC BM-H2000PND PVM monitor which i haven't touched for over a year and was fine last time i used it. Turned it on today and its making a clicking sound which is accompanied with the screen jolting ever so slightly every now and then, a similar click sound the monitor makes when the screen refresh rate changes. It had kept doing it for 45 minutes so i decided to go in the service menu and try resetting all values back to default via the manual as i thought maybe one of the settings might have been over driving a component inside the TV and causing it to fail, half way through me setting the values back to default i lost picture altogether on the screen, even when i change input do i not see the input label appear on screen, altering the brightness and contrast dials on the front doesn't alter the raster at all just stays completely black!!

After some help from The UK Video Collectors forum (http://www.ukvac.com/forum) and testing certain points on the boards inside the JVC the consensus is the flyback is shot, but my argument with that is should i still be getting glow from the necktube and static when i run my hand over the screen after turning the monitor on!?

So my question is, could a setting i changed in the service menu actual of cause me to lose picture and is there an easy way to reset the service menu back to factory settings, i know how to reset the main menu settings but can seem to find how to reset the service menus??

I'm just getting into the details of my newly acquired DT-V17, with a few questions, points, and brags:

- 2200 hr on a 2005 tube, with RGB card. Decent price, pretty happy with the find;
- Packing wasn't great, some bezel damage on what was a pristine home studio monitor. The flight case it came in was obv too small.
- Which means a broken and mangled JVC logo - anyone have a source on where to get a replacement? It's looking pretty janky
- Waiting for a BNC clone for my TM-H (I already have the SCART) to daisy chain to either have dual screen or permanent tate on the TM-H
- I know the clone is out there but what is the market for these official RGB cards? Thinking to recoup some expenditure by selling it.
- What is 720p supposed to look like? Outputting CPS-2 Digital AV > HDMI > VGA (passive converter) > BNC brings the picture to a small square in the centre of the screen, no adjustment stretches it to the edge. Is this normal? Ditto with SNK Arcade Stick Pro;
- 240p from CPS2 Digital AV is coming up as 480/60i on the screen. Am I doing something wrong here? Is there an actual 240/60p mode on the DT-V?
- Is there a way to know which external sync is being used? RGBHV or RGBs? Is there a way to toggle between the two?
- Corio2 downscaling is not coming back with any useful results but I haven't played with this much yet. Blank screen, no sync apparently, TBD.
- No success with MiSTer, even with Direct Video and reduced resolution in the .ini. Has anyone had any luck with getting these to output to DT-V?

Overall a happy camper, would be much happier with the MiSTer showing a picture.

That's normal. 240p sources always show as "480/60i" on the OSD but it definitely supports 240p.



I sold my DT-V a while ago, but it worked with the MiSTer. Do you have an I/O board? you might want to try sync on green. On my monitor, the picture was jittery unless I used an extron RGB interface, and also used sync on green instead of csync or HV sync. Also, if you use sync on green make sure you change the sync to INT sync in the menu

That's what I thought, good to know.



I'm on a Corio2, no dice with RGsB. The closest I'm getting is the scaler splash screen at RGBHV 720p, and then it flickers on and off losing sync. There must be something different between the CPS2 HDMI output and Corio2 that's not playing ball.

I heard the DT-V can be a pain with sync but I didn't realize it would be this stubborn.

EDIT: I switched out the output from the Corio2: rather than DVI > VGA (passive cable) > BNC, I'm going DVI > HDMI (passive cable) > VGA (active converter adapter) > BNC. Picture's coming out very narrow at 240p but I think that's a Corio2 thing.

EDIT2:



No I/O board, just Terasic HDMI and Direct Video toggle with dongle.