shmups.system11.org

Success! Don't think it looks too bad. Button isn't as 'clicky' as the original, but far better than having to stick a finger in.

I noticed the original power button had sort of a metal connection on it, picture:



Any idea what it is, and if it's something to worry about?

Final question, does anyone happen to know which slot on the input board the tally light goes into? I've got two, marked J and S3, it's the only thing I didn't make a note of. I think it's J.

Cheers

Looks like some sort of ESD discharge thing the way it's positioned. Never noticed it myself.

Which button design did you end up using?

Used the one from your site, just had to slightly widen the mount part, but it works great.

Anyone any idea on the tally light?

Hey Guys ,

I have recently picked up a Jvc dtv 1710 monitor it has a fantastic picture when using my Neo Geo Aes and GameCube , But when I try connecting my sigma raijin supergun for arcade boards I get a bend in the picture at the top of the screen , I have an rgb scart cable from the supergun going straight to a female scart to rgb with sync separator , Any help or suggestions are welcome to try resolve this issue .

Thanks ,

I have a JVC BM-H2000PND PVM monitor which i haven't touched for over a year and was fine last time i used it. Turned it on today and its making a clicking sound which is accompanied with the screen jolting ever so slightly every now and then, a similar click sound the monitor makes when the screen refresh rate changes. It had kept doing it for 45 minutes so i decided to go in the service menu and try resetting all values back to default via the manual as i thought maybe one of the settings might have been over driving a component inside the TV and causing it to fail, half way through me setting the values back to default i lost picture altogether on the screen, even when i change input do i not see the input label appear on screen, altering the brightness and contrast dials on the front doesn't alter the raster at all just stays completely black!!

After some help from The UK Video Collectors forum (http://www.ukvac.com/forum) and testing certain points on the boards inside the JVC the consensus is the flyback is shot, but my argument with that is should i still be getting glow from the necktube and static when i run my hand over the screen after turning the monitor on!?

So my question is, could a setting i changed in the service menu actual of cause me to lose picture and is there an easy way to reset the service menu back to factory settings, i know how to reset the main menu settings but can seem to find how to reset the service menus??

I'm just getting into the details of my newly acquired DT-V17, with a few questions, points, and brags:

- 2200 hr on a 2005 tube, with RGB card. Decent price, pretty happy with the find;
- Packing wasn't great, some bezel damage on what was a pristine home studio monitor. The flight case it came in was obv too small.
- Which means a broken and mangled JVC logo - anyone have a source on where to get a replacement? It's looking pretty janky
- Waiting for a BNC clone for my TM-H (I already have the SCART) to daisy chain to either have dual screen or permanent tate on the TM-H
- I know the clone is out there but what is the market for these official RGB cards? Thinking to recoup some expenditure by selling it.
- What is 720p supposed to look like? Outputting CPS-2 Digital AV > HDMI > VGA (passive converter) > BNC brings the picture to a small square in the centre of the screen, no adjustment stretches it to the edge. Is this normal? Ditto with SNK Arcade Stick Pro;
- 240p from CPS2 Digital AV is coming up as 480/60i on the screen. Am I doing something wrong here? Is there an actual 240/60p mode on the DT-V?
- Is there a way to know which external sync is being used? RGBHV or RGBs? Is there a way to toggle between the two?
- Corio2 downscaling is not coming back with any useful results but I haven't played with this much yet. Blank screen, no sync apparently, TBD.
- No success with MiSTer, even with Direct Video and reduced resolution in the .ini. Has anyone had any luck with getting these to output to DT-V?

Overall a happy camper, would be much happier with the MiSTer showing a picture.

That's normal. 240p sources always show as "480/60i" on the OSD but it definitely supports 240p.



I sold my DT-V a while ago, but it worked with the MiSTer. Do you have an I/O board? you might want to try sync on green. On my monitor, the picture was jittery unless I used an extron RGB interface, and also used sync on green instead of csync or HV sync. Also, if you use sync on green make sure you change the sync to INT sync in the menu

That's what I thought, good to know.



I'm on a Corio2, no dice with RGsB. The closest I'm getting is the scaler splash screen at RGBHV 720p, and then it flickers on and off losing sync. There must be something different between the CPS2 HDMI output and Corio2 that's not playing ball.

I heard the DT-V can be a pain with sync but I didn't realize it would be this stubborn.

EDIT: I switched out the output from the Corio2: rather than DVI > VGA (passive cable) > BNC, I'm going DVI > HDMI (passive cable) > VGA (active converter adapter) > BNC. Picture's coming out very narrow at 240p but I think that's a Corio2 thing.

EDIT2:



No I/O board, just Terasic HDMI and Direct Video toggle with dongle.

I have both a TM-H and DT-V. I get the top wobble from CPS2 from Minigun into SCART RGB clone card (RGBs) into the DT-V, but no wobble with the TM-H with same setup. Both have a noisy signal, I think due to the DIN 9 to SCART cable I have. DT-V is apparently more sensitive to sync.

DT-V picture is perfect with the CPS2 Digital AV through HDMI to VGA converter into BNC. I haven't tried the TM-H with any HDMI signal.

Make of that what you will.

How are you connecting your Neo Geo and Raijin into your DT-V?

I can get a DT-V1710CG with very low hours on it, and great condition. Or a DT-V1900CG.
But I am a little bit scared of all that "sync issues" being reported from a lot of user.
I would like to use my Mister with I/O board (I am currently using it via VGA to Scart cable and BNC to SCART converter on a BVM monitor) on it.
Could anybody confirm that the Mister will work with the standard cores (NES/SNES/MD/Neo Geo/PCE etc.), or what would I need to get it work without sync/display issues?

From my experiments with my DT-V1710, if you feed it a proper RGBHV signal, it'll have a clean straight image with no upper skew, even with some known problematic sources.

Using an LM1881 and using it's vertical output will not work, but using a GBS8200 with GBS Control in passthrough mode will work.

You should be able to use your mister with VGA and a simple VGA-5BNC cable directly connected.

I have great results with DT-V1710CG and MiSTer Direct Video through Tripp Lite P131-06N. Perfect image, no colour or geometry issues.

I tried the Rankie HDMI-VGA but that one needed the 5V power which the Tripp Lite doesn't.



^same as my (limited) observations.

in my experience with the DT-V, even when using RGBHV, all 240p sources had this "micro jitter" problem that drove me crazy. I eventually found the solution was to use an Extron RGB 109xi and output RGsB. This completely eliminated the micro jitter and also fixed any skew problems that certain systems had.

I am connecting the neo geo using a rgc rgb scart cable straight into to a female to bnc rgc scart directly to the monitor rgb and h for sync first four BNC connectors from top down .
For the sigma raijin I also have a rgc made rgb scart and have also connected to a female scart to bnc one with sync separator and one without and I get the same fault , I have also tried connecting the sigma via an extron unit and I still get the skew , But in order to get a picture from the extron unit I need to connect the H and V sync to the monitor , I’m a bit lost as to what I should try next to resolve the issue .

The setup is coming along with the latest addition of an Extron Crosspoint.

Still not fully debugged but I'm not getting a picture from my CPS2 Digital AV on my DT-V. The TM-H displays the signal fine, DT-V can't seem to find a sync signal, shows a black screen with the white line typically displayed with no input. Both are good with MiSTer in Direct Video through the Crosspoint. Direct CPS2 Digital AV > VGA > BNC > DT-V also works great at both 240p and 480p. Something in the Crosspoint is causing a blockage. I've tried two sets of VGA>BNC, two HDMI>VGA, resistance switches on the back of the Crosspoint, and a lot of scouring through the manual. I thought these boxes could clean up signals, not block them.

Any thoughts?

(Crosspoint Ultra 88)

Still to check:

- Crosspoint Firmware update
- Other outputs.
- PC software.
- um ... ?

UPDATE:

I'm not 100% sure what happened but there has a been a miracle and suddenly everything works beautifully. I disconnected everything to dust/hoover the insides of the CRTs, and after re-connection everything seemed fine and dandy. My guess is I had the CPS2 Digi AV unseat a little, from tugging on the HDMI, which was causing discoloration on the TM-H (blacks that weren't 000 were coming through as brown/burghundy) and no signal on the DT-V. Again the DT-Vs showing the alleged sensitivity to inputs. The TM-H is a trooper though.

Dimahoo in tate, straight from CPS2 with some repaired old Soundsticks, was delicious after everything was working.

Hi, what difference there are between the models dt-v 1710 and dt-v 1700?

Although I was very sceptical about the monitor at first, I now got myself a 1710CG. It was in such good condition that I told myself that such a chance might not come back so quickly.

Now that the monitor is at my place and I have tested the first consoles on it, I have to admit: The DT-V is absolutely fantastic.
I like the colours a bit better than on my BVM2010P or BVM20F1E.
The geometry is by far the best of all CRTs I own. Even text boxes on RPGs are completely straight, and not warped. I have always noticed this with my other tubes.

The JVC has only a little over 100 hours (Hours Meter x100 = 1), the coating layer has no scratches whatsoever, and year of manufacture is 2008.

I got an Extron RX201 for free with the monitor (I've been looking for one of these for a long time), but didn't even use it yet.
I haven't noticed any of the sync problems that many people report. I have only tested SNES, Mega Drive and Sega Saturn so far, however. With all three of them I get a rock solid picture.

The only thing I still wish for is the whole thing one size bigger. Maybe one day I will find a 1910 in a similar good condition.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UVjaVF ... sp=sharing


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gsxr8K ... sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FflU3t ... sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HmlxGB ... sp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gtwyAb ... sp=sharing

Hi fellas! Another proud owner of a DT-V 1710C with an original IF-C01COMG.

I'm trying to connect a HAS through a VGA-5BNC but I get a pretty dark screen, well, actually a white line where the top edge of the 16:9 should be but no image. I read the whole thread and already changed the Sync to EXT and select the correct slot, in my case 2D. Still gives me NO SYNC and HIGH under it. Maybe I should change something on the HAS to make the JCV happy?

Gotta read the manual for both, the HAS and the CRT this week...

Edit: managed to get image on the screen with a Neo Geo and PCE but get a discolored tint on the lower corners of the screen. There're no speakers or strong magnets around. Degaussing does not get rid of it. I removed the IF-C01COMG and inserted it again, no change. Is there a way to fix this?





The seller sent me some images before shipping and even though he's using the SDI input and 16:9, the colors and geometry look fine.





Maybe the card is faulty?

Edit 2: tried the HAS today, same results. Discoloring on the bottom corners and bended image on the top. The only thing I could try is swap the cards around and see if that fixes the discoloring. Since this monitor is very picky with sync, I know the skew on the top won't be fixable.

Any metal cleaner or other chemical recommendations on how to clean the metal on the front of the monitor?

This might seem like a dumb question, but can you actually see the monitor visibly degaussing when you press the button? The reason I ask is because several years ago, I bought a brand new old stock DT-V1710 from ebay, and right out of the box, degaussing didn't work. I'd press the degauss button and it would say "Degaussing!" but you wouldn't actually see any kind of degaussing effect. I was finally able to fix it after taking the monitor apart and re-seating some of the PCBs inside that connected to the mainboard. After that, when I pressed the degauss button, the screen degaussed like it should.

Yes, it degausse correctly, I can hear the sound and see the screen shaking. Did it several times but the corners stay discolored.

Bummer...hopefully the aperture grille wasn't damaged in shipping.

That should be plastic. I usually just use windex.

I tried to look for broken aperture grille CRT images and found very little. Never seen the effect of a broken aperture myself but I doubt the monitor got dropped or hit by something as the box was in perfect condition and it was very well protected inside. I will try to buy a degaussing coil but all I find are those green sticks from China. Are they effective to fix the discoloring? All the videos I find use the oval shape ones.

Discoloration can mean that there's a field present that degaussing can't fix. My 19" has a bad degauss coil so I have to manually fix the color with magnets if I ever move the set. I place a stack of magnets on a needle file in a T shape and spin it while moving in and out at the screen. This is similar to what a degauss wand will do.

P.s. it's something that takes finesse. You have to sort of comb away the field gently.

Anyone have a JVC DT-V1710 or DT-V1910 that they
would be willing to sell?

I sold some recently, and maybe I will have some more for sale soon

But I want to ask about something else. I recently bought three DT-V100CG's including one brand new, but none of them have the 16:9 bezel :/





Does anyone know where can I track one down? I think a 3D print would be fine too. I might consider trading one of my bezels for the DT-V1710CG for it


Also is there a possibility that someone will ever make a component card for this monitor, simmilar to the ones that linuxbot3000 makes? This is a really nice little monitor, but only composite and HD SDI is a little bumer :/ I know that a RGB mod exists, but I wouldn't want to mod my units.

PM sent!

Still looking for a JVC DT-V1710 or DT-V1910 to buy in the United States if anyone has one they would be willing to sell.

May I know the difference from DTv1900 snd 1910?