shmups.system11.org

Fixed the image link.

Even with no sync you should at least get a rolling Image on a crt. If using ossc or gscart then you wint as they need sync to process signal.

If you are using ossc or similar try composite video for sync. If you get a picture then its def your sync that's the issue

I notice between your install and the one below it the RGB lines are on opposite sides of the resistors. Maybe double check that.

This is a modified version of the GitHub repo, to make the overall usability more comfortable for the end-user while having a single design.

He has to close J3 for getting CSYNC passed to the MultiAV pin 3: https://www.videogameperfection.com/pro ... ypass-amp/
And by the way: S-CPUN pin 151 has an easy access at the bottom side

Do I need a low-pass filter for an RGB-modded SNES Mini going to a CRT?

Thanks for that.

J2 and J3 were quite unclear from the instructions, but on that new link you sent I see what you mean.

So with J3 closed I now get sync, but still no image.

The RGB points are taken from the vias as in the photo.

FYI - Using this cable wired for TTL pass through sync - https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/nintendo/super-nintendo/packapunch-super-nintendo-entertainment-system-snes-n64-rgb-av-scart-cable-ntsc-gold-scart

What is your setup like? Are you going straight to a PVM or some kind of upscaler?

I've tested it via an RGB CRT and an OSSC.

If you get sync, there might be something different wrong. Does composite video still work?

Probably not

That's the link to the NTSC version. I assume you know the sync pin on NTSC cables would end up going to a power pin in your PAL console, correct? Also is your console a 1CHIP revision? I'm sure you already covered these bases, but I just wanted to be sure on both counts. Edit: I see that you say it is a 1CHIP console, so that's covered then.

He has removed R28 and D1 from his PAL 1Chip mainboard. This frees pin3 from 12V and makes it useable for CSYNC.

But in general you are absolutely right! People in PAL regions have to be aware of that and have to mark there cables carefully if they have CSYNC cables lying around. Falsely plugged in a unmodified PAL console and powered on ... ouch ...
This is also the reason why all my cables are 'Pseudo' sync-on-luma cables. Pseudo, because my consoles are modified to output csync on the luma pin.

Okay cool, yeah I was just concerned and wanted to make sure he didn't actually fry something in his console. It is strange that he's not getting a signal from R, G, or B. With all 3 lines not working, there must be something fundamentally wrong with his mod and not just a loose connection.

Anyway, that's a good idea to use the safer luma pin for re-routing csync. Semi-related: I found out the other day that the Neo Geo RGB cables I got from retro access were using composite for sync access. While that works fine most cases, My OCD got the better of me, and I opened the cable up and swapped the csync wire to the csync pin. Works great, and it seems to be a bit easier to dial in perfect sampling phase on the OSSC.

Now that you have jumper J3 closed try connecting Csync to the via that borti suggested or pin 7 of the S-RGB chip or even S-CPUN pin 151 as you did previously. Pin 18 on the S-RGB chip may not be sufficient in some cases with this mod. I have measured pin 18 on two "S-RGB A" chips and and it was 4.6Vpp which might just about be enough at about 281mVpp once it has been through the amp circuit if you're lucky but the one "S-RGB" chip that I measured was about 4.1Vpp on pin 18 which is a bit low at about 250mVpp once it has been through the amp circuit.

Yes R28 and D1 were removed at the start.

The console now only produces a grey screen with composite after installing this board. It was working beforehand.

Kind of OT but does anyone have these in stock? Everyone I've checked is out.

I have an interest in connecting a few of my consoles to an arcade monitor, most likely a Wells Gardner 25" K7000 or a Nanao MS8. With the K7000, it seems it can accept the AC coupled video output from the consoles but the MS8 cannot. As of now, I am using Arcade Forge's Sync Strike to harvest RGB, VGnd, and CSync from my retro-access sourced SCART cables then connecting that to a JAMMA fingerboard, then connecting to my JAMMA cab. I want this to work on my Nanao MS8-based cab as well. DC coupled video is required and I am holding out for viletim's next revision of SCART2Jamma whenever that becomes available. Would like to put something together to hold me over until then.

What I would like to know is if the THS73xx, particularly the THS374, series chips output a DC coupled signal that will work properly for an arcade monitor. If so, how do I enable DC coupled output considering that output from the consoles is AC coupled? Thus far, all I know of is Bob's guide here and here. Does simply following Bob's guide achieve this?

Spent some time reading the data sheet over the weekend. Seems Bob's guide captures what I am asking but in more curt terms. So if I am not mistaken, the only thing required for DC coupled output is 75 ohm termination on the output. Page 24 on the data sheet says:



So basically, if I am not mistaken, follow Bob's guide and I should be fine. Also, if this is true then, doesn't seem that this Sony BVM/PVM monitors are all that much different than arcade monitor when it comes to RGB 15khz input? Learning this stuff is pretty cool.

Mods, is it possible that images could be uploaded to the forum itself, as attachments, so that photos in this less year old thread would still be present? I have encountered a few of these so far as a new member, and, I really am not trying to be a PITA about it, but, it does result in some lost knowledge in the threads. Several other forums I frequent no longer allow image linking at all, and insist on direct uploads of images (properly size limited to no more than 1024x768, or sometimes 800x600 to limit bandwith usage) to protect against broken or removed image links from third party image hosting sites.
Many thanks for considering it.
-o

I have installed SNES RGB Bypass Board Vers. 4.1a with S-Video in my SNES mini and am noticing the brightness to be really high. Every component is soldered on the pcb and I have it wired for csync.

Is this expected?

What value resistors are installed for R11, R21, R31 on the bypass board? According to bort4938's readme:-
-for the 'regular' 1Chip model: use 750 Ohm resistors
-for the SNES Mini/Jr.: use 1.2k Ohm resistors

Here is a picture of the assembled pcb.

https://imgur.com/gx0heiN

I think i assembled the parts as per the BOM. Do the registers look incorrect? I assembled as per the BOM and i think they are https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... -ND/729799

Looks like R11, R21, R31 are correct for SNES Mini, but I cant work out what value resistors have been used for R12, R22, R32?