THS7374 vs THS7314 + 1 chip brightness fixing

[syboxez]

All scart cables should be 8 or 9 core coaxial cable.
That way everything is shielded from everything.

For one, I'm not using SCART, I'm using BNC. Second, I need 6 or 7 core coax, but I can't find it anywhere for as cheap as I can get SVGA cables. I've looked for a long time now and have found nothing.

I'd like to know if the issue is interference though, because I'm using the same cabling with all of my consoles and have experienced no issues with jailbars with any of them other than the SNESs.

[eric90000]

Hey guys, I'm also using a Voultar modded SNES mini into an OSSC, and am getting the dreaded ghosting. Now that I've seen it, I need to get rid of it lol.

I saw Borti mentioned lifting an IC leg and adding a resistor in series....is there any more information on this? Which IC, leg and resistor etc.

Thanks!

[Syntax]

SCPU-N
Pin 155
20ohm resistor to vcc.

Find an easier vcc spot to solder to than the original pad.

[eric90000]

SCPU-N
Pin 155
20ohm resistor to vcc.

Find an easier vcc spot to solder to than the original pad.

Ah ok perfect, thank you. Do you know if that would affect brightness levels or signals concerning the already installed RGB bypass? Or does it purely concern the ghosting issue....

[Syntax]

Need to remove the pull down resistors on the RGB bypass board output. Just remove don't bridge.

[rama]

Google for images of this mod, so you see how this looks in practice.
You want a tool that fits between the pins of the IC. A needle is probably best.
For heat, use a low temperature iron (soldering station).
Don't use any kind of force on the pin. If your tools are right, it is almost effortless.

You may want to wait a little though. I'm waiting for new voltage regulators with more amperage.
There's a chance those fix the issue as well. Much simpler to do that mod.

[Syntax]

@rama the regulator only made the white center bar about 80% better/less noticeable on an LCD screen over composite.
I never had any issue with the bar on a crt via composite or RGB.
I have experienced ghosting via rgb on a crt and putting a 20 ohm resistor inline with pin 155 seemed to fix it.

I still stand by my method of sliding a straightened spring behind pin 155 to lift it.
I hate levering off adjacent pins, and with the spring behind the pins there is more room for your iron.

[Harrumph]

sliding a straightened spring

What kind of spring, like from a ball point pen or something more specific?

[eric90000]

Need to remove the pull down resistors on the RGB bypass board output. Just remove don't bridge.

Does this still apply if I'm using Voultars THS7374 bypass board, and not the stock RGB encoder? His board is calibrated to output perfect RGB voltage, I'm just wary of messing that up.

[Kez]

Is anyone selling 7374 bypass boards that can be shipped to the UK?

[zeruel85]

Is anyone selling 7374 bypass boards that can be shipped to the UK?

For SNES? I have 4x borti's PCBs available, if you want.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=60272

[Syntax]

Need to remove the pull down resistors on the RGB bypass board output. Just remove don't bridge.

Does this still apply if I'm using Voultars THS7374 bypass board, and not the stock RGB encoder? His board is calibrated to output perfect RGB voltage, I'm just wary of messing that up.

I just looked at his board and it seems he uses 750ohm terminations for Snes 1 chip and 1.2k terminations for the mini just like bortis boards.

These need to be removed as They are a brightness fix.

Adding a 20 ohm resistor inline is a ghosting and brightness fix with the benefit of having equal brightness levels for all colors.

[eric90000]

I just looked at his board and it seems he uses 750ohm terminations for Snes 1 chip and 1.2k terminations for the mini just like bortis boards.

These need to be removed as They are a brightness fix.

Adding a 20 ohm resistor inline is a ghosting and brightness fix with the benefit of having equal brightness levels for all colors.

Ah OK I see. So the 1.2k resistors right after the Red green blue wire inputs on the bypass board need to be removed? The cpu 155 resistor mod essentially does the job of these resistors, thus there's no need to keep them?

Do you know if the brightness/picture quality will look the same as my current Voultar setup, except just be ghosting free?

[Syntax]

At 10 ohms the ghosting is fixed but the picture is too bright. At 20 ohms the ghosting is fixed and the picture is at correct and equal brightness levels.

Yes remove the 1.2k. They were used to correct your brightness levels originally, this pin 155 trick will replace the need for them.

[eric90000]

At 10 ohms the ghosting is fixed but the picture is too bright. At 20 ohms the ghosting is fixed and the picture is at correct and equal brightness levels.

Yes remove the 1.2k. They were used to correct your brightness levels originally, this pin 155 trick will replace the need for them.

OK cool I think I understand it all a bit better now. I've been chatting with Voultar and he reckons he has a SNES coming into his shop with similar issues...he's gonna report back with any findings.

Actually, will lifting CPU pin 155 affect the csync implementation on Voultars board?

[Syntax]

If you can, replace the original linear transformer with a higher amperage one before you do the 155 mod.

Something like this http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/linear-vo ... s/0633026/

If it fixes your issue it will help Voultar confirm what causes this uncommon fault.

[Harrumph]

Syntax, still interested in what kind of spring you are using.

[eric90000]

If you can, replace the original linear transformer with a higher amperage one before you do the 155 mod.

Something like this http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/linear-vo ... s/0633026/

If it fixes your issue it will help Voultar confirm what causes this uncommon fault.

I've actually already done this, tried that exact 2A ST one, then a different 1.5A Texas Instruments one...same result. Tried several power supplies, using fully shielded cable > OSSC > 4K TV.

Console is recapped with quality caps (1000uF cap is added also).

I played around a bit more with the console today, it's definitely got fairly noticeable ghosting/shadowing going on, as well as a number of what look to be vertical bars (which I believe are linked to the ghosting issue). I'm quite disappointed, for some reason I had it in my head that if I bought a SNES mini and Voultars board it'd be a flawless SNES image. I know the issue is with my console, and not the RGB bypass. Apparently some consoles just have worse ghosting than others....

I'm going to hold off on the 155 pin mod while I wait on feedback from Voultar.

[unmaker]

If you can, replace the original linear transformer with a higher amperage one before you do the 155 mod.

Something like this http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/linear-vo ... s/0633026/

If it fixes your issue it will help Voultar confirm what causes this uncommon fault.

I've actually already done this, tried that exact 2A ST one, then a different 1.5A Texas Instruments one...same result. Tried several power supplies, using fully shielded cable > OSSC > 4K TV.

Console is recapped with quality caps (1000uF cap is added also).

I played around a bit more with the console today, it's definitely got fairly noticeable ghosting/shadowing going on, as well as a number of what look to be vertical bars (which I believe are linked to the ghosting issue). I'm quite disappointed, for some reason I had it in my head that if I bought a SNES mini and Voultars board it'd be a flawless SNES image. I know the issue is with my console, and not the RGB bypass. Apparently some consoles just have worse ghosting than others....

I'm going to hold off on the 155 pin mod while I wait on feedback from Voultar.

The vertical bars you see are most likely due to not having any filters in your chain. Voultar's board has the option to turn the low-pass filter on or off and yours is most likely off. You can turn it on through Voultar's board but an easier way is by enabling LPF through your OSSC's settings.

[eric90000]

The vertical bars you see are most likely due to not having any filters in your chain. Voultar's board has the option to turn the low-pass filter on or off and yours is most likely off. You can turn it on through Voultar's board but an easier way is by enabling LPF through your OSSC's settings.

I've got the OSSC LPF always ON, and all my consoles set to OFF, so there's always 1 LPF on at all times. It's not aliasing noise, it's like some sort of jailbars/dull lines. I'm fairly certain it's linked to the ghosting, as I've seen others mention it too. Thanks for the suggestion though, I wish it was that easy

[Lawfer]

So which is the best RGB board for an RGB Mod for the SNES Mini? THS7374 or another one?

Also which modder would you guys recommend? Voultar, Retrofixes or Leon Kiriliuk?

[FBX]

So which is the best RGB board for an RGB Mod for the SNES Mini? THS7374 or another one?

Also which modder would you guys recommend? Voultar, Retrofixes or Leon Kiriliuk?

7374 and Voultar. The man is a genius, and that takes a lot for me to say that of someone else

[Lawfer]

So which is the best RGB board for an RGB Mod for the SNES Mini? THS7374 or another one?

Also which modder would you guys recommend? Voultar, Retrofixes or Leon Kiriliuk?

7374 and Voultar. The man is a genius, and that takes a lot for me to say that of someone else

Thanks alot man!

[unmaker]

The vertical bars you see are most likely due to not having any filters in your chain. Voultar's board has the option to turn the low-pass filter on or off and yours is most likely off. You can turn it on through Voultar's board but an easier way is by enabling LPF through your OSSC's settings.

I've got the OSSC LPF always ON, and all my consoles set to OFF, so there's always 1 LPF on at all times. It's not aliasing noise, it's like some sort of jailbars/dull lines. I'm fairly certain it's linked to the ghosting, as I've seen others mention it too. Thanks for the suggestion though, I wish it was that easy

I also have a mini with Voultar's board but I don't have any vertical bars. I have noticed that I do have ghosting though. It wasn't something I noticed until I saw posts about in this forum and now I can't unsee it. So I'm curious what the cause could be for your vertical bars.

[eric90000]

For those of you who haven't seen it, Voultar has done testing on a SNES mini with the ghosting/vertical bar issue. It looks like he may have cracked this one and come up with an easy fix.

Here's the thread:

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=61072&start=90

[MarkOZLAD]

If I wanted to use one of these chips to generate 1Vp-p RGB would I use a 30-ohm inline instead of the 75-ohm inline resistor?

[radaxian91]

Hey guys,


I've installed the borti RGB Bypass board into a 1CHIP PAL SNES but I can't get any output. The instructions say to take CSYNC from pin 151 but that didn't work. I've also tried taking CSYNC directly off the S-RGB chip pin 18 with no luck.

I've followed the instructions here but they don't seem to work... or I've missed something.

Instructions https://github.com/borti4938/SNES-AddOn ... /README.md
RetroRGB additional info http://retrorgb.com/snes1chip7374.html

Removed so far -

R15, R16 and R17 from the SNES mainboard
R28 and D1

Excuse my long test wires...

[leonk]

^^^ image broken

[AndehX]

my DIY amp install on my PAL 1CHIP. (didn't have any 750ohm resistors so I put 2 in series)

[Ikaruga11]

So which is the best RGB board for an RGB Mod for the SNES Mini? THS7374 or another one?

Also which modder would you guys recommend? Voultar, Retrofixes or Leon Kiriliuk?

7374 and Voultar. The man is a genius, and that takes a lot for me to say that of someone else

Thanks. I guess I'll have Voultar mod my SNES Mini!