PVM-2030 Service Manual

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vol.2
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PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by vol.2 »

I am having trouble finding this manual. If anybody has it, or knows where to find it, I would be grateful. Thanks in advance.

Best,

Vol.2
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buttersoft
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by buttersoft »

Try the service manual for the 2130QM? http://elektrotanya.com/sony_pvm-2130qm ... nload.html
Combined with the operating manual for the 2030 (https://docs.sony.com/release/PVM2030.pdf) for the pinouts, that might be the best you can do.

The DE/AU models 2130 and 2730 are close to the US 2030 and the 2530, but not identical. For another thing, I have two 2730s and a KXHG1, and they're all *slightly* different. One 2730 has S-Video, one doesn't. And the KXHG1 is missing one of the 7 geometry pots the 2730s have. The boards in them are pretty much interchangeable even so. None of them quite match the available service manual. The power supply might be different in yours though.

Why are you after it? Convergence? It's a bitch on these if you need to get to the rings - you have to unpack like most of the set to reach them safely while live. And that's the 2730, let alone the smaller cousins. I note that the convergence adjustments for the 2130 are mostly purity rings on the neck, where the 2730 has pots on one of the sub-boards. Both need the yoke placed properly first. They also both use the classic Sony H-STAT for horizontal convergence adjustment - it's the chunky red/orange box with the potentiometer on it that sits between the flyback and the anode cap. Low voltage wires come off it for the HV protection/safety circuit too. These sets are really old, so make sure the H-STAT isn't arcing or dangerous (shove your discharge lead near it, around it, under it, while the set is running) and if it's safe go ahead and adjust it as the manual tells you to.

If you want it for anything other than straight convergence adjustments, I'd double check everything against the circuitry you're seeing, downstream and upstream, and take note of pot positions and voltages before doing anything at all.

(RE: above. I think the Sony sets are using *two* anodes, or some sort of split anode. Looks normal from the outside, but has two parts which are unconnected save through the H-STAT. The H-STATs on mine produce a variable resistance of 10K-25K between the normal outer anode, and the inner one on the spring - can anyone confirm that? I guess it's the only way the H-STAT can adjust the deflection and thus convergence, by splitting the HV somehow, into like 25kV and 24.95kV or something. They're not far enough apart or insulated well enough for there to be a huge potential difference. And there is no way on earth to get an HV probe to the inner connection while the set is running, not that I even have one.)
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vol.2
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by vol.2 »

buttersoft wrote:Try the service manual for the 2130QM? http://elektrotanya.com/sony_pvm-2130qm ... nload.html
Combined with the operating manual for the 2030 (https://docs.sony.com/release/PVM2030.pdf) for the pinouts, that might be the best you can do.

The DE/AU models 2130 and 2730 are close to the US 2030 and the 2530, but not identical. For another thing, I have two 2730s and a KXHG1, and they're all *slightly* different. One 2730 has S-Video, one doesn't. And the KXHG1 is missing one of the 7 geometry pots the 2730s have. The boards in them are pretty much interchangeable even so. None of them quite match the available service manual. The power supply might be different in yours though.

Why are you after it? Convergence? It's a bitch on these if you need to get to the rings - you have to unpack like most of the set to reach them safely while live. And that's the 2730, let alone the smaller cousins. I note that the convergence adjustments for the 2130 are mostly purity rings on the neck, where the 2730 has pots on one of the sub-boards. Both need the yoke placed properly first. They also both use the classic Sony H-STAT for horizontal convergence adjustment - it's the chunky red/orange box with the potentiometer on it that sits between the flyback and the anode cap. Low voltage wires come off it for the HV protection/safety circuit too. These sets are really old, so make sure the H-STAT isn't arcing or dangerous (shove your discharge lead near it, around it, under it, while the set is running) and if it's safe go ahead and adjust it as the manual tells you to.

If you want it for anything other than straight convergence adjustments, I'd double check everything against the circuitry you're seeing, downstream and upstream, and take note of pot positions and voltages before doing anything at all.

(RE: above. I think the Sony sets are using *two* anodes, or some sort of split anode. Looks normal from the outside, but has two parts which are unconnected save through the H-STAT. The H-STATs on mine produce a variable resistance of 10K-25K between the normal outer anode, and the inner one on the spring - can anyone confirm that? I guess it's the only way the H-STAT can adjust the deflection and thus convergence, by splitting the HV somehow, into like 25kV and 24.95kV or something. They're not far enough apart or insulated well enough for there to be a huge potential difference. And there is no way on earth to get an HV probe to the inner connection while the set is running, not that I even have one.)
Yeah, I found that manual actually. It's similar, but not the same. I'm trying to solve a geometry issue where the image appears to be tilted to the left. It's a little weird. There is PIN AMP, PIN PHASE, PIC BOW which all seem to do something with the image on the sides, but they don't tilt. Then there is the Virt and Horz CEN and SIZE, but also a HORZ FRE, which appears to do something similar to CEN. Not sure about that. Any ideas?
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by buttersoft »

It won't have a tilt control. Your only option after the controls you've already found is a yoke adjustment. Which is possibly even more of a pain to do live than the convergence, if for the same reasons. If you're *very* careful, and don't move the yoke up/down/back/forward in any way, and the rotation is small, then you might try doing it while everything is off. If it's on rubber chocks, you should be able to loosen it safely. I did it once with a consumer set. If you get it wrong though, it might really screw things up. As in, it'll fuck up the convergence so bad you'll have no choice but to pull everything apart and start calibrating from scratch.
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by vol.2 »

buttersoft wrote:It won't have a tilt control. Your only option after the controls you've already found is a yoke adjustment. Which is possibly even more of a pain to do live than the convergence, if for the same reasons. If you're *very* careful, and don't move the yoke up/down/back/forward in any way, and the rotation is small, then you might try doing it while everything is off. If it's on rubber chocks, you should be able to loosen it safely. I did it once with a consumer set. If you get it wrong though, it might really screw things up. As in, it'll fuck up the convergence so bad you'll have no choice but to pull everything apart and start calibrating from scratch.
oh great. what i really need is one of the PIN PHASE type pots for the top and bottom of the screen. It seems like the "PIN" controls can only change the shape of the sides. :(

I did a little poking around on my own to look for a solution, and adjusting the yokes seems like its what to do. It probably got whacked in transit or something. Good news is that the colors and sharpness and everything else is great. Just this annoying tilt. It's more pronounced when things are letterboxed. It seems to be an even rotation about 1 cm to the left.

Would the manual have yoke instructions?
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by buttersoft »

vol.2 wrote:Would the manual have yoke instructions?
Yeee...eees. For starting over, should you need to. But they're not amazingly detailed. Still, re-reading a few times should give you an idea of what you'll be going through. Son'y manuals from that time all seem to say pretty much the same thing.

No instructions for slight rotation. If you choose to give it a go, that's what you do :)
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by vol.2 »

buttersoft wrote:
vol.2 wrote:Would the manual have yoke instructions?
Yeee...eees. For starting over, should you need to. But they're not amazingly detailed. Still, re-reading a few times should give you an idea of what you'll be going through. Son'y manuals from that time all seem to say pretty much the same thing.

No instructions for slight rotation. If you choose to give it a go, that's what you do :)
Okay. So rotate the whole yoke assembly against the direction of the tilt? For example, if looking at my screen, the image appears to be rotated couter-clockwise, then I should, facing the yoke, also rotate the whole assembly counter-clockwise. (because I'll be from behind instead of front)

There is a pcb on the top that I will probably have to remove to do anything. but i guess i can take off the sides as well. Pics illustrate what I'm talking about (but are not my PVM).

Ignore the pink circle, I am resuing somebody else's photos:
Image

Shows the top PCB and sides partially removed:

Image
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by buttersoft »

Yes, you rotate the yoke as expected. The displayed image will rotate with it. There's no instructions for that per se in the manual though. If it's a small rotation, as this is, you can probably do it while the set is off. I can't be sure of that though, it's not something I've had to do on one of those sets before.

You're making me a little nervous with the question, though. It's not hard to do if the set is powered off, but it's a delicate operation. The yoke on a PVM is held on pretty tight with chocks and caulk or glass tape, and breaking it free can require some real force. To do it right, you're not allowed to move it forward, back, up, down, left or right, or tilt it in any way - you only want to rotate it in that one plane. If you don't do it right you're stuffed. If that happens, you'll need to fold all the boards out, detach the yoke, and start from scratch the with the convergence process in the manual - you understand that process, and what's involved? That it's going to involve soldering to the ICs, delivering the signals they say, and then working while the set is live? The yoke itself can be handled safely while on, but there's real hazard areas on the board(s) with the horizontal output circuitry, let alone the PSU, neckboard, HV and cables/components that feed them. If you're not sure how to be safe, don't make the attempt!

Added to which, even if you do everything right, if the rotation is too large you may mess things up anyway. I have no idea how sensitive these sets are to that.

Looking at your picture, what's actually wrong? Is the whole image a true rectangle but rotated, or is just one corner lifted or distorted inwards? Trapezoid screen? Rotating the yoke will rotate the image entire, it won't fix distortion away from a perfect rectangle. In theory you could angle the yoke to make the left or right side larger (Think of the screen being the plane cutting the rectangular pyramid of the electron beams) but producing any appreciable difference that way would probably screw up the convergence so badly you'd have to start again, as above.

If you do go ahead, take clear photos of where the yoke rests now (you *might* be able to get back to that exact position if you accidentally bump it) and of the convergence rings. Mark things if you can, with tape, or chalk pen. I like to use the latter on the rings, and then run a red marker in a line over that - that way I can get back to where I started. I don't find the process easy, and I haven't done it a whole helluva lot. And while some of the cabling is too short to let the boards fold out very far, some may need to be re-routed/repacked right to avoid signal interference later on. I shudder to think of how they must have had to do this in the factory.

(It may not be totally clear from Sony's manuals either, but any convergence or adjustment steps you need to take, you do in the order they're printed. You can skip earlier steps - if you're not adjusting the yoke, say - but it's best to stick to what they say until you know things backwards.)

EDIT: Apologies if this comes off as patronising. You may have already realised a lot of this, or all of it. I just didn't want you to dive in and have something bad happen because there were details missing!
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by vol.2 »

buttersoft wrote:Yes, you rotate the yoke as expected. The displayed image will rotate with it. There's no instructions for that per se in the manual though. If it's a small rotation, as this is, you can probably do it while the set is off. I can't be sure of that though, it's not something I've had to do on one of those sets before.

You're making me a little nervous with the question, though. It's not hard to do if the set is powered off, but it's a delicate operation. The yoke on a PVM is held on pretty tight with chocks and caulk or glass tape, and breaking it free can require some real force. To do it right, you're not allowed to move it forward, back, up, down, left or right, or tilt it in any way - you only want to rotate it in that one plane. If you don't do it right you're stuffed. If that happens, you'll need to fold all the boards out, detach the yoke, and start from scratch the with the convergence process in the manual - you understand that process, and what's involved? That it's going to involve soldering to the ICs, delivering the signals they say, and then working while the set is live? The yoke itself can be handled safely while on, but there's real hazard areas on the board(s) with the horizontal output circuitry, let alone the PSU, neckboard, HV and cables/components that feed them. If you're not sure how to be safe, don't make the attempt!

Added to which, even if you do everything right, if the rotation is too large you may mess things up anyway. I have no idea how sensitive these sets are to that.

Looking at your picture, what's actually wrong? Is the whole image a true rectangle but rotated, or is just one corner lifted or distorted inwards? Trapezoid screen? Rotating the yoke will rotate the image entire, it won't fix distortion away from a perfect rectangle. In theory you could angle the yoke to make the left or right side larger (Think of the screen being the plane cutting the rectangular pyramid of the electron beams) but producing any appreciable difference that way would probably screw up the convergence so badly you'd have to start again, as above.

If you do go ahead, take clear photos of where the yoke rests now (you *might* be able to get back to that exact position if you accidentally bump it) and of the convergence rings. Mark things if you can, with tape, or chalk pen. I like to use the latter on the rings, and then run a red marker in a line over that - that way I can get back to where I started. I don't find the process easy, and I haven't done it a whole helluva lot. And while some of the cabling is too short to let the boards fold out very far, some may need to be re-routed/repacked right to avoid signal interference later on. I shudder to think of how they must have had to do this in the factory.

(It may not be totally clear from Sony's manuals either, but any convergence or adjustment steps you need to take, you do in the order they're printed. You can skip earlier steps - if you're not adjusting the yoke, say - but it's best to stick to what they say until you know things backwards.)

EDIT: Apologies if this comes off as patronising. You may have already realised a lot of this, or all of it. I just didn't want you to dive in and have something bad happen because there were details missing!
Hey, thanks for your concern. :)
The picture is a rotated box. Whole thing is twisted counter clockwise. If I measure the top left and top right, it's about 1cm higher on the right, and the bottom of the image is also slanted in the same direction. It's really obvious with letterboxed stuff.


Yes, I know how to be safe with electronics. I have experience with working on various things, and I build circuits for work sometimes. I have not worked on a yoke before, but this is not my first time fixing something inside a set.

I have a scope, signal generator, multimeter, soldiering stuff, etc. I don't know what I would need to feed the set for calibration. I've never done that before. I read the manual for the 2130, and I noted the request to jump there board and feed signals. If it comes to that, and I truly hope it doesn't, I may need to seek help.
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by buttersoft »

I think you could probably not worry about jumping the ICs and just feed in a grid/dots and adjust the yoke with that onscreen instead, but I must admit i'm not sure. People do that with arcade tubes all the time.

And TBC the procedures in a Sony manual might not work for another set too well, if at all. The general outline would be the same, but an aperture grill might do convergence in a different order.
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by vol.2 »

buttersoft wrote:I think you could probably not worry about jumping the ICs and just feed in a grid/dots and adjust the yoke with that onscreen instead, but I must admit i'm not sure. People do that with arcade tubes all the time.

And TBC the procedures in a Sony manual might not work for another set too well, if at all. The general outline would be the same, but an aperture grill might do convergence in a different order.

So. I did it. It worked. My convergence is a teeny-tiny little bit off in a couple edge areas, but it was that way before i did it, and it's imperceptible to me unless i have a white grid in front of me.

That's the good news. The bad news is that the screen center appears to be different for RGB (CMPTR) and for all other inputs (s-video, composite) It's straight in both, but the image is a bit to the left on CMPTR, and a bit to the right on other inputs. I wonder if there isn't a separate adjustment for the CMPTR input somewhere? I couldn't find anything in that other manual, but there are definitely pots on the pcbs that are not mentioned in the service manual.
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by buttersoft »

vol.2 wrote:That's the good news. The bad news is that the screen center appears to be different for RGB (CMPTR) and for all other inputs (s-video, composite) It's straight in both, but the image is a bit to the left on CMPTR, and a bit to the right on other inputs. I wonder if there isn't a separate adjustment for the CMPTR input somewhere? I couldn't find anything in that other manual, but there are definitely pots on the pcbs that are not mentioned in the service manual.
Glad to hear the rotation worked. As i noted, it does mess with the convergence slightly even if you do everything right. At best you wouldn't have noticed, but it sounds like its a shade worse the perfect.

The screen position is not something you can adjust for individual inputs. This is done on later sets via profiles, sometimes in the service menu. But this set has no OSD. The best you can do is adjust your modelines for RGB - if you happen to be using a PC source. The exception to the rule is digital/TTL RGB, which is a separate beast, and has an external H-center control on a few PVM's from that era.
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by vol.2 »

buttersoft wrote:
vol.2 wrote:That's the good news. The bad news is that the screen center appears to be different for RGB (CMPTR) and for all other inputs (s-video, composite) It's straight in both, but the image is a bit to the left on CMPTR, and a bit to the right on other inputs. I wonder if there isn't a separate adjustment for the CMPTR input somewhere? I couldn't find anything in that other manual, but there are definitely pots on the pcbs that are not mentioned in the service manual.
Glad to hear the rotation worked. As i noted, it does mess with the convergence slightly even if you do everything right. At best you wouldn't have noticed, but it sounds like its a shade worse the perfect.

The screen position is not something you can adjust for individual inputs. This is done on later sets via profiles, sometimes in the service menu. But this set has no OSD. The best you can do is adjust your modelines for RGB - if you happen to be using a PC source. The exception to the rule is digital/TTL RGB, which is a separate beast, and has an external H-center control on a few PVM's from that era.
Thanks for the reply.

I didn't really "notice." I have to scrutinize a test pattern to see the convergence issues. it's subtle and only in some areas.

Yeah, I figured I was sort of screwed for the h-v centers/input. I suppose I could get one of them extron rgb thingies to alter center for me.

-vol.2
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by vol.2 »

I suppose I should note for posterity:

This was not easy. It took several attempts because the position of the image kept changing when I put the TV cover back on. I can only assume that a combination of the metal in the case changing the magnetic field and possibly pressure in the internals causing some fluctuations caused the image to shift. Also, I didn't really ever feel comfortable with my hands in there. The case of a PVM 2030 is really tight, and it's very tricky to keep your hands off of the dangerous parts.

Also, there are plastic tabs around the back of the yoke that are held down by the metal clamp. These tabs are going to be stuck because of time and heat and pressure. Unsticking them is extremely difficult. You stand a high chance of breaking them. And doing so is potentially fatal to the set. Also, the clamp is not super tight because it's just glass. It is difficult to know how much pressure to put back on it. It has to be enough to keep it from moving. I don't really know the answer to that, hope I did it enough.
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by vol.2 »

I finally!!! found a copy of this manual. It's a real copy and not a ditto or xerox. I don't own a scanner, but could probably do a photo of a page if someone is in dire need. In the future I will try to scan it when I have that capability.

Image
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by buttersoft »

That would be appreciated :)
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by splits »

Yes, please do. I have a monitor that close relative (KX-21HV1S) and am very interesting in seeing this.

FYI: There are smartphone applications that will function like scanners too, complete with cropping, perspective correction, etc. I've used one in the past and it works well enough.
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by Dochartaigh »

vol.2 wrote:I finally!!! found a copy of this manual. It's a real copy and not a ditto or xerox. I don't own a scanner, but could probably do a photo of a page if someone is in dire need. In the future I will try to scan it when I have that capability.
Are you in the CRT Discord channel? There's a kind fellow there who has done a TON of Service Manual scans... (and people have been looking for this one for a while I think...)
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by vol.2 »

I'm not in the Discord. I have had a tremendous amount of life stuff going on recently, and can't really do anything about this. Also my phone is cheapo and more than 6 years old so I'm not going to get any fancy scanning apps going. I can upload a mediocre photo of a page to imgur and post it here if someone is desperate. Sorry can't help more right now.
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by buttersoft »

There is a discord? Invite, pls?
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by lkramer »

vol.2 wrote:I finally!!! found a copy of this manual. It's a real copy and not a ditto or xerox. I don't own a scanner, but could probably do a photo of a page if someone is in dire need. In the future I will try to scan it when I have that capability.

Image
Any chance you might be able to provide the full scan at this time?

Or, has anyone else come across this service manual?

Thanks!
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by vol.2 »

lkramer wrote: Any chance you might be able to provide the full scan at this time?

Or, has anyone else come across this service manual?

Thanks!
I still don't own a scanner. If I ever do I'll scan this.
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by SuperSpongo »

Taking pictures of the pages would be the next best thing, wouldn't it? There's even smartphone apps that automatically convert to pdf.
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Re: PVM-2030 Service Manual

Post by matt »

Smartphone scanning apps have gotten really good. The results you get are better than a lot of "professionally" scanned manuals that exist nowadays. It's especially good for those large foldout schematics that normally would take lots of photoshopping.

Give it a shot if you're able to! The world needs a PDF version of this manual.
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