Bandridge automatic 5-port SCART switcher

[Guspaz]

Moved out of the gscartsw thread, because really, this discussion didn't belong there.

The discussion on the Bandridge switch originally started here:

http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... 7#p1183817

Post 1:

Since there's a guy on eBay selling tons of the 5-way automatic switchers for 40 EUR (he's got a bunch of individual new-in-box, and a bunch of sealed boxes-of-five), I ordered one too. Shipping/fees will be a whole bunch, but I'm expecting the overall price to be around 115-120 CAD.

I've only got two SCART devices at present (PSX and SNES), I'll see how it goes and also let people know if I have any issues.

Post 2:

Here is the lot he's split up (15 total, 6 remaining):

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-Bandridge-5- ... SwzgRW1fAC

And here's the boxes of five that he's selling (2 total, 2 remaining):

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/NEW-5-X-Bandridg ... SwwpdW6v~6

Minor discount per-unit if you buy the 5x box, big per-unit savings on shipping.

My guess is he happened into five boxes of five, and decided to sell some individually, and sell others box the crate.

Post 3:

The Bandridge switch arrived, but the SCART breakout cable for it didn't, so I can't test it yet.

It comes with a euro-plug power brick. It accepts 100-240v and 50-60Hz input, so can be used in North America, but would require a plug adapter that would make it stick way off any power brick.

I'll be ordering a replacement: I measured the diameters, here are the specs:

Inner Diameter: 2.1mm
Outer Diameter: 5.5mm
Center Positive
Output: 12V DC @ 0.5A

This one looks like it should work, it's the cheapest such adapter with Prime shipping in Canada, although it's four times the amperage required:

https://www.amazon.ca/JOYLAND-Adapter-R ... pply+5.5mm

Then again, running a cheap power brick at less than 25% load is probably a good thing, all things considered.

[Guspaz]

The SCART-to-BNC breakout cable that I bought from WookieWin ended up bouncing back and forth between Montreal and Miami for a while (two round trips), but it made it here today.

I ended up not using the power brick that I bought from Amazon: it has an extremely short lead, so it was easier to just get a euro-to-canada plug adapter.

Now that I've got the Bandridge auto-switcher all hooked up, my initial impressions are good, with one quibble. I've got a SNES (csync) and PSX (luma sync) plugged into AV2 and AV3, with the audio output of an NES connected to the RCA jacks for AV1 (still waiting for NESRGB in the mail).

For the SNES and PSX via SCART, it's working flawlessly. I turn the SNES on, it instantly switches to AV2. Turn the PSX on, it instantly switches to AV3. Turn the PSX off, it instantly switches back to AV2. I can't see any degradation in image quality compared to the direct connection: I've not done a side-by-side (or otherwise immediate switch) comparison, but both consoles look the same to me.

The quibble: it doesn't auto-switch on audio, so using the switch to handle the NES audio (since the switch audio output is input into my sound network) has to be manually switched to AV1 for the NES. That by itself is incredibly minor, but the switch shuts off automatically if there is no video input for 10 minutes. So even if I manually switch to AV1 for NES audio, it will shut off after 10 minutes since nothing is connected to the video input.

When I install the NESRGB, that won't be an issue, but... I've also got an s-video GameCube that I'd replace it with, so the issue will stand until I can get every console on RGB SCART.

Current ideas: set my raspberry pi to composite video mode and just leave it plugged into AV1 video, or maybe I could rig up something that directly feeds power into the composite video jack to trick the auto-detect circuit?

I'm not sure how I'd do the latter, since my knowledge of electronics is limited. I assume I'd need a resistor on the positive lead to limit current, but I don't know what voltage composite video uses. The RPi is probably safer/easier.

EDIT: One solution might be to connect the PVM's composite video and/or s-video outputs to the AV1 input. I can't do that, because those outputs are used to loop the signal to my projector. I also tried passively splitting the video signal: that worked, but image quality took a dive, obviously.

[Guspaz]

Solved the NES issue: I just connected the RF output of the NES to the AV1 composite input of the Bandridge. I don't care that it's not a proper composite video signal, because I'm not actually using it for anything other than making the switch think AV1 is active. There does not appear to be any difference in the image whatsoever by using both the NES' composite video output and RF video output at the same time (I stared really hard at the PVM and then connected the RF output, no difference).

All-in-all, this thing is working bloody fantastic for a €40 brand-new-in-box switch...

One thing I haven't tried yet is AV5, I know that the manual Bandridge switches have some weirdness going on with that input, and people have solved it by cutting traces. On my switch, AV5 seems to be some sort of special "Record Select" port, which I think means it can route the output of AV1/2/3/4 to AV5 for some sort of bi-directional video shenanigans? So that port may have image quality issues if I don't also cut traces. But I've only got two SCART consoles now, hopefully three soon, so it's not yet an issue.

[phoenix79]

Brilliant. Thanks for the update

[Shuco13]

One thing I haven't tried yet is AV5, I know that the manual Bandridge switches have some weirdness going on with that input, and people have solved it by cutting traces. On my switch, AV5 seems to be some sort of special "Record Select" port, which I think means it can route the output of AV1/2/3/4 to AV5 for some sort of bi-directional video shenanigans? So that port may have image quality issues if I don't also cut traces. But I've only got two SCART consoles now, hopefully three soon, so it's not yet an issue.

Out of curiosity: Have you ever checked this possible issue with your switch ever since?
Furthermore, some people reported brightness loss and discoloration with their Bandridge switches: http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... &start=150
Can you confirm anything of the likes?

[Guspaz]

I've still not used input 5, but I haven't noticed any issues with the first four inputs.

I was talking to Voultar, and he mentioned that some board revisions of the auto 5-way Bandridge have some issues, and some board revisions don't, so apparently it's hit-or-miss if you have any issues. He did say that all the issues are easily fixable: one common issue is apparently a sync bleed problem that can be solved by removing a diode.

I've got a second one very indirectly on the way (and a 3-way): it'll be passing through the MLiG guys who will take a look at it for their SCART roundup review. We'll see if they notice any issues.

Meanwhile, tvdwerf seems to have all the Bandridge switches (including the 5-way) back in stock.

[Shuco13]

Thanks, much appreciated. Please keep us posted about the sync bleed issue.

[tjstogy]

I also bought an automatic switch from this guy from the Netherlands: netherlands guy on eBay

he's a nice guy and it took about a week to get to me in NY. He bought a closeout special of the Bandridge Scart selectors so apparently he still has a bunch left.

I had to get a couple other things to make it work with my setup though:

12V 500mA 0.5A Power Supply

and a

4 Ft Male to Male Scart Cable

The power adapter that comes with it is European so I needed the US variety. I heard that if you used a simple Euro-American convertor for the included plug instead of using a US power supply it would have problems switching when using it with the Automatic switch...maybe a voltage problem of some sort ? Maybe someone can verify. Either way it was cheap.

Also, I needed the Male to Male scart cable because I have a female Scart connector on my wookiewin breakout cable, and to work with the scart switch you need male.

[blizzz]

The prices from that eBay seller are way too high. You could buy them for 15€ incl shipping a while ago and I still see a listing on eBay for 20€ + shipping.

[Guspaz]

I don't know what's going on there, but he's selling the same items for less than half that price:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Bandridge-5 ... SwzgRW1fAC

[Shuco13]

While doing some research on the 5port automatic switch I read that the included PSU would drain more power in operating and standby mode than a replacement adapter. Can anybody confirm this?

[EnragedWhale]

How are people getting on with these? The guy in the Netherlands has plenty it seems so I was gonna order a couple. Anybody have any experience chaining them?

Cheers

[Guspaz]

I'll eventually be getting a second one (MLiG has it at the moment, I should get it in a few months) to try chaining, but IIRC somebody had posted here before that they've got a few of them chained without issue. I'll probably be chaining it with an Audio Authority component switch sooner than that.

The Netherlands guy seems to have increased his prices a bunch, but he's got a few different auctions with different prices, so check out you get the cheaper one.

Voultar has mentioned that some revisions of the thing don't have any issues (like mine, it would seem), but other revisions do have problems. Apparently the problems are all fixable via modification, but if all the units coming from the Netherlands guy are the same revision, then we might just be in luck.

[tjstogy]

Yeah the one I got from the Netherlands guy works great, no problems. Love the automatic switching... it's like a dream come true.

[Shoryukev]

Seems like some of these posts are fairly old, how are people still liking this unit? I've been debating which SCART switcher to get, and I've kinda narrowed it down between this one and the GSCARTSW. This bandridge one looks appealing to me, but I worry I might outgrow the number of inputs.

Currently I'd hook it up (1) RGB-NES (2) SNES (3) Genesis (4) Saturn (5) Other/Misc.

The last input I'd have to swap cables with my SMS, Neo Geo AES, PS1/PS2, and anything else in the future. Is the 8 inputs really worth the extra money, or is daisy chaining bandridge switches the way to go? Two bandridge switches are still cheaper than the GSCARTSW if I need another one down the road. I'm not super worried about swapping cables for what's plugged into the last input, as I don't play them nearly as much (I don't have SCART cables for my AES or PS1/PS2 right now anyways).

[blizzz]

There's still this shop, which sells it for 22.50€: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bandridge-5-Way ... 2495346829

[Shoryukev]

There's still this shop, which sells it for 22.50€: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bandridge-5-Way ... 2495346829

Even with the exorbitant shipping charges to the US that is still about half the price I'm seeing it everywhere else. Thanks for sharing, that made my mind up for me!

[blizzz]

Just noticed that the title says SVB7735, but the images are for the SVB7725 (non-powered) version. Better ask which one it is before you decide to buy one.

[Shoryukev]

Just noticed that the title says SVB7735, but the images are for the SVB7725 (non-powered) version. Better ask which one it is before you decide to buy one.

I'll send him a message. He has listings for both part numbers, but the pictures and price are the same...kinda odd. Even if it was manual that's still a good price.

[EnragedWhale]

Cool, thanks for your help guys. I've ordered a couple and I'll report back how I get on, although I can't foresee any issues

[Shuco13]

Voultar has mentioned that some revisions of the thing don't have any issues (like mine, it would seem), but other revisions do have problems. Apparently the problems are all fixable via modification, but if all the units coming from the Netherlands guy are the same revision, then we might just be in luck.

Could you please give a little more detail on issues, revisions and fixes?

[Guspaz]

Voultar has mentioned that some revisions of the thing don't have any issues (like mine, it would seem), but other revisions do have problems. Apparently the problems are all fixable via modification, but if all the units coming from the Netherlands guy are the same revision, then we might just be in luck.

Could you please give a little more detail on issues, revisions and fixes?

You may want to ask Voultar directly. Apparently the appropriate fix differs by revision, and he's the expert, not me.

[Voultar]

Remove D1 and bridge.

Remove D2 and leave it be.

[EnragedWhale]

Just wanted to pop in and say that my 2 units arrived and are currently happily chained together, automatically switching with no visible degradation or interference.

Super happy

[Shuco13]

Remove D1 and bridge.

Remove D2 and leave it be.

Your post brings me directly to this thread: http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.ph ... e#p1057885
This only seems to fix the switching issue, apparently not present anymore in newer revisions. Any word on other issues/fixes, e.g. brightness loss?

[Guspaz]

I've not had any brightness issues directly due to the switch. Didn't have the phantom input described there either.

I did some experimenting yesterday trying to run component video through one of the switch's inputs, the problem there is that the bandridge seems to use composite video to detect the active input. This means that the switch won't change to component video automatically, and if you manually switch, it'll shut off and cut the feed after 10 minutes.

I tried rewiring the component-to-scart cable so that luma was connected to composite video: this worked in that everything auto-switched, but it also did what I thought it would and substantially reduced the brightness of the luma signal.

I think something like the GARO might resolve the issue, since it outputs RGBS and therefore has something on the composite video pin (the sync) to auto-switch on. The issue there is the purple glow issue with the Wii (currently my only component console in the retro setup). I'm also not sure if the GARO shuts off its outputs if there is no input.

Alternatively, I could maybe wire an amp inline with luma to counter the voltage drop, but I don't think there's any power available in this cable, since there's no power coming from the source device?

[blizzz]

I bought one of the Bandridge automatic switches last week. They're still available for 20€ + shipping (10€ in bulk) here in Germany. The switching works perfectly fine, but I notice a massive drop in sharpness on the Framemeister. Anyone else experienced this? I'm using a Bandridge SCART cable between the switch and the Framemeister. It's almost like someone smeared vaseline on my TV.

[Guspaz]

I haven't experienced any difference in sharpness: I compared before/after and couldn't see any difference in the image whatsoever. I can also report that I've now got the switch fully populated and haven't run into any issues with that aspect.

It could be a problem with the SCART cable, it could be a problem with the switch. If you're buying locally, they're not likely to be the same batch (and hence not necessarily the same revision) as the ones we're buying from the Netherlands. I'd suggest asking Voultar if he's familiar with this problem with the Bandridge switchers: if he is, he may know a fix.

[LDigital]

I'd say it's the cable and not the switch. The quality of the cable used makes a big difference with analogue

[blizzz]

Yea, but I'm using a short high quality cable from Bandridge. The switcher is good enough for my CRT, but on the Framemeister I will still manually switch cables to get sharp pixels unless I can fix this. I'll take a couple pictures in the next days.

Edit: Tested the cable with an old 1x2 manual switch from my childhood and there's 0 loss in sharpness or brightness.