Nintendo 64 RGB Blur fixing

[citrus3000psi]

^^
@zeruel85, sorry bud just scrolled a bit up and saw that you ran some tests with the updated firmware. Thanks!

Would you have any recommendations for a USB Blaster along with a link to the steps you followed to update the firmware. Not really sure what files to grab from Borti's GitHub.

Thanks again.

Steps are on tim's site on how to flash. http://etim.net.au/n64rgb/tech/

You will need a .pof from borti's git hub.
I plan on using this one once I get my board:
https://github.com/borti4938/n64rgb/blo ... th_igr.pof

Been waiting over a month and still nothing. So Tim is shipping another board to me. Great customer support

Just get a clone for the programmer. They are cheap on aliexpress

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/altera- ... 59613.html

[CobraKing]

^^^
Thanks man, appreciate it!

[zeruel85]

Citrus was faster than me.

Great reply from him, nothing to add.

[Ikaruga11]

Which of these three is the best N64 RGB Board? In terms of picture quality and de-blur?

RetroFixes: https://store.retrofixes.com/collection ... 0333182215
Voultar: http://voultar.com/index.php?route=prod ... duct_id=50
Tim: http://etim.net.au/shop/shop.php?crn=20 ... how_detail

Voultar claims his N64 RGB Board has no post-processing. Does that mean Tim and RetroFixes both use post-processing on theirs?
RetroRGB says that Tim's N64 RGB Board is the best.
RetroFixes has the cheapest N64 RGB Board.

[tjstogy]

Tims board, easily. You get deblur and the ability to reset the console with a button combination, courtesy of Borti. Amazingly helpful for use with the everdrive. The other two I'm sure are great, but Tims board is $37 shipped to NY-- no reason not to get extra features for pennies difference.

Which of these three is the best N64 RGB Board? In terms of picture quality and de-blur?

[leonk]

the other 2 also require an NS1 n64. N64RGB works with all n64 consoles.

[borti4938]

The two boards of Voultar and RetroFixes are simple video amps. You can only use them with an N64 which already produces RGB.

The solution of viletim demultiplexes RGB and sync information from the N64 video processer data output lines in the first place. Then the color information is fed into a simple R2R ladder DAC which forwards the then analog signal into a on board video amp.

Some 'quick' comparision:
R=&voultars PCB&RetroFixes PCB&viletim PCB R=[b]Installation[/b]&easy&easy&medium some more wires required, might be hard if you have a MAV-NUS or AVDC-NUS inside and you do not use a fine pitch adapter R=[b]Post-Processing[/b] - lag adding&nothing&nothing&nothing R=[b]Post-Processing[/b] - lag-free [1]&nothing&nothing&[b]de-blur[/b], 15bit color mode [2] R=[b]video filter[/b]&on/off by jumper&always on&on by default, off by jumper R=[b]video filter quality[/b] if filter is not bypassed&very good&good&very good R=[b]Additional feature[/b] [3]&nothing&nothing&IGR [2] R=[b]Compatible N64[/b]&only NS1/NUJ1&only NS1/NUJ1&all N64 R=[b]Appr. costs as a DIY project[/b] [4]&$7&$7&$28 [2] R=[b]value for money[/b]&good&ok&very good
Notes:

1. lag-free is everything below a few pixels. De-multiplexing the video data simply adds a single pixel of delay; the N64 itselfs adds a few more pixels delay in the de-mux process compared to viletims PCB.
2. needs Altera USB Blaster (clone) for firmware-update (see posts above) / for flashing the firmware
3. besides 'simple' video processing
4. Do everything as a complete DIY project using OSHPark as PCB manufacturer (you get three PCBs) and Mouser as components supplier.
   (Reference is using my GitHub repository as source, where more components are on the PCBs compared to the ones listed here.)

[Ikaruga11]

The two boards of Voultar and RetroFixes are simple video amps. You can only use them with an N64 which already produces RGB.

The solution of viletim demultiplexes RGB and sync information from the N64 video processer data output lines in the first place. Then the color information is fed into a simple R2R ladder DAC which forwards the then analog signal into a on board video amp.

Some 'quick' comparision:
R=&voultars PCB&RetroFixes PCB&viletim PCB R=[b]Installation[/b]&easy&easy&medium some more wires required, might be hard if you have a MAV-NUS or AVDC-NUS inside and you do not use a fine pitch adapter R=[b]Post-Processing[/b] - lag adding&nothing&nothing&nothing R=[b]Post-Processing[/b] - lag-free [1]&nothing&nothing&[b]de-blur[/b], 15bit color mode [2] R=[b]video filter[/b]&on/off by jumper&always on&on by default, off by jumper R=[b]video filter quality[/b] if filter is not bypassed&very good&good&very good R=[b]Additional feature[/b] [3]&nothing&nothing&IGR [2] R=[b]Compatible N64[/b]&only NS1/NUJ1&only NS1/NUJ1&all N64 R=[b]Appr. costs as a DIY project[/b] [4]&$7&$7&$28 [2] R=[b]value for money[/b]&good&ok&very good
Notes:

1. lag-free is everything below a few pixels. De-multiplexing the video data simply adds a single pixel of delay; the N64 itselfs adds a few more pixels delay in the de-mux process compared to viletims PCB.
2. needs Altera USB Blaster (clone) for firmware-update (see posts above) / for flashing the firmware
3. besides 'simple' video processing
4. Do everything as a complete DIY project using OSHPark as PCB manufacturer (you get three PCBs) and Mouser as components supplier.
   (Reference is using my GitHub repository as source, where more components are on the PCBs compared to the ones listed here.)

Thank you borti. So De-blur, 15-bit mode and IGR are already pre-flashed on Tim's board?

[borti4938]

Thank you borti. So De-blur, 15-bit mode and IGR are already pre-flashed on Tim's board?

Switchable de-blur (using a mechanical switch) is pre-flashed, IIRC.
15bit color mode and IGR needs an update; this is why there is note [2] on it.

[leonk]

updating with N64RGB with Borti's custom firmware is much easier than installing the board. If anyone is not comfortable with firmware upgrading the PCB, they should not even attempt to install it.

[Ikaruga11]

updating with N64RGB with Borti's custom firmware is much easier than installing the board. If anyone is not comfortable with firmware upgrading the PCB, they should not even attempt to install it.

I'm going to buy Tim's N64RGB Board and pay RetroFixes to flash Borti's firmware to it and install it on my N64.

[holaplaneta]

Yesterday I also uploaded the heuristic algorithm available for the mechanical switched version (viletim has sourced quite neat mini switches )

Would you have the exact model of those switches? I always order from Tim´s when I prepare for big orders, but this time shipping to Mexico for a AU$2.00 switch is at AU$31.00...



I have been looking for this switch for some time but I have not been able to acquire it in the Americas.

Thanks!

[tjstogy]

You don't need the switch with Bortis firmware!! Save your money and your console

[Ikaruga11]

You don't need the switch with Bortis firmware!! Save your money and your console

^

[jordan.rees]

Can some explain how to wire the deblur switch? All I can find so far is:

“can be enabled by connecting the the pad labelled A to the pad labelled G (for ground). If you use it I recommend a connecting a switch as few games don't look good while de-blur is enabled"

So I connect A-G, then which poles do I connect on the switch? The switch has 6 poles.

A - ?
G - ?

[leonk]

Please stop using switches to turn deblur on/off. By adding 2 wires from N64RGB to other spots on the N64 you will be able to control deblur with key combo on any controller plugged into port 1!

google borti github and read docs of N64IGR.

[aallgod]

Given most of you are probably DIY-ers, how much should a person be looking to pay for someone to mod their N64 console for them? I am in the United States, and just purchased Worthington's board from his site. My N64 right now had previously been modded for RGB (not Tim's board though), and I was looking to have someone undo the current mod job and fresh install Tim's board in my console so I can get the de-blurring benefits. My N64 looks better than I have ever seen (thusfar) through the OSSC on an OLED television. Of course I have now gone down the video rabbit hole and would love to see the N64 look even better.

So are there any recommended retailers that I can go to that won't charge me an arm or a leg for an install? Or can I PM any one of you to help me out? Thanks for the help in advance.

[leonk]

I'm in canada but try to keep same prices as other.

I think $50 usd is fair. Make sure they include the jtag port prewired to n64rgb. This way, if new firmware comes out, your remove the case and you got the wire there ready to plug directly into your usb blaster. No soldering required to update the firmware.

[bobrocks95]

Is there a nice place to tuck the JTAG cable? With a translucent N64 the N64RGB alone already looks kinda bad when everything's closed up again...

[borti4938]

What about an angled pin-header? This is how I did it once I started writing the firmware.

@mikejmoffitt: Do you have any progress with your project? Have read anything about it a while. Hence, I started designing something similar (based on a Max10) last week and will hopefully have a prototype soon.

[leonk]

Is there a nice place to tuck the JTAG cable? With a translucent N64 the N64RGB alone already looks kinda bad when everything's closed up again...

It tucks under the heat sink.

Nothing wrong with seeing N64 in tranlucent N64 (I did only 1 green. Dozens of black and a couple of Pokemon).

I'm sure it will look as cool as my tranlucent DMG. As long as it looks clean, no problem.

Glue galore and rats nest of wires. well..

[leonk]

What about an angled pin-header? This is how I did it once I started writing the firmware.

@mikejmoffitt: Do you have any progress with your project? Have read anything about it a while. Hence, I started designing something similar (based on a Max10) last week and will hopefully have a prototype soon.

cant use pin header. Pads are used instead of thruhole. They are not spaced apart following any standard. It's a custom job no matter what.

[borti4938]

I used some of them and soldered it simply on the pads: www.ebay.de/itm/263019405465

[leonk]

I used some of them and soldered it simply on the pads: http://www.ebay.de/itm/263019405465

Not good for long term reliability. The angled pin can be used as a leaver to lift the pad off the substrate (especially when done by less technically inclined customers!) Nothing beats a thru-hole design; I believe soldering a wire and moving stress off board is second best thing.

[LankyPanky]

Hey Everyone. First of all, thank you to Borti and Tim for making this awesome mod. I can't wait to get my hands on both the NESRGB and N64RGB.

I know this is a little off topic but I thought someone here might be able to help get me started. Over the years I have been collecting consoles and mods for them but never go around to actually installing them. Now that I have more time I'm stoked to get them up and running. I have all the equipment I need to start practising my solder skills except for the flux. I picked up fine lead-free solder (see pic below) made from Sn/Ag/Cu its but I have no idea what type of flux would work best. I know lead-free solder is pretty unconventional but I thought I'd give it a shot (hoping it doesn't suck to work with)...

Does anyone know what kind of flux I should try to find? Even a few suggestions would be great. Thanks!

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1jud ... XJ4bWJUNjA

Edit: So is took almost a week for this post to "clear customs" so I just went ahead and bought a couple different brands from amazon so hopefully one of those work.. Though I'm still open to suggestions.

[mikejmoffitt]

What about an angled pin-header? This is how I did it once I started writing the firmware.

@mikejmoffitt: Do you have any progress with your project? Have read anything about it a while. Hence, I started designing something similar (based on a Max10) last week and will hopefully have a prototype soon.

It's been pretty much done for a little while, I've just been caught up with other projects that I haven't done much to move forward with manufacturing any.

[Guspaz]

Hey Everyone. First of all, thank you to Borti and Tim for making this awesome mod. I can't wait to get my hands on both the NESRGB and N64RGB.

I know this is a little off topic but I thought someone here might be able to help get me started. Over the years I have been collecting consoles and mods for them but never go around to actually installing them. Now that I have more time I'm stoked to get them up and running. I have all the equipment I need to start practising my solder skills except for the flux. I picked up fine lead-free solder (see pic below) made from Sn/Ag/Cu its but I have no idea what type of flux would work best. I know lead-free solder is pretty unconventional but I thought I'd give it a shot (hoping it doesn't suck to work with)...

Does anyone know what kind of flux I should try to find? Even a few suggestions would be great. Thanks!

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1jud ... XJ4bWJUNjA

Edit: So is took almost a week for this post to "clear customs" so I just went ahead and bought a couple different brands from amazon so hopefully one of those work.. Though I'm still open to suggestions.

If you're using flux cored solder (and the one you linked to above is), and you're going to use separate flux too, you need to match the flux to that in the solder core.

[bobrocks95]

Hey Everyone. First of all, thank you to Borti and Tim for making this awesome mod. I can't wait to get my hands on both the NESRGB and N64RGB.

I know this is a little off topic but I thought someone here might be able to help get me started. Over the years I have been collecting consoles and mods for them but never go around to actually installing them. Now that I have more time I'm stoked to get them up and running. I have all the equipment I need to start practising my solder skills except for the flux. I picked up fine lead-free solder (see pic below) made from Sn/Ag/Cu its but I have no idea what type of flux would work best. I know lead-free solder is pretty unconventional but I thought I'd give it a shot (hoping it doesn't suck to work with)...

Does anyone know what kind of flux I should try to find? Even a few suggestions would be great. Thanks!

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1jud ... XJ4bWJUNjA

Edit: So is took almost a week for this post to "clear customs" so I just went ahead and bought a couple different brands from amazon so hopefully one of those work.. Though I'm still open to suggestions.

Lead-free solder has a higher melting point, so it's harder to work with. I see most people recommend 60/40 rosin-core solder. But I'm not really an expert on the subject, I've proven to myself at this point that I suck at soldering.

Not sure on flux, but I know you want the kind that's easy to clean off with just water.

[holaplaneta]

You don't need the switch with Bortis firmware!! Save your money and your console

Please stop using switches to turn deblur on/off. By adding 2 wires from N64RGB to other spots on the N64 you will be able to control deblur with key combo on any controller plugged into port 1!

Unfortunately I do. Not every solution fits all needs. Don´t take this the wrong way but I live with many kids and non tech people, that would prefer a physical switch than controller commands.

I have been looking for the same N64RGB switch that Tim sells on his page, but without the exact model and just by looking at the pictures of it, I can´t find any I´m sure is the same.
http://etim.net.au/shop/shop.php?crn=20 ... how_detail

I think the size is around 5mm-7mm for width and around 8mm-10mm in height. For the longitude of the actual shaft I would say around 6mm-7mm. But I´m not sure.

I will continue searching and if do find the exact model, I will post it here for information´s sake.

UPDATE: Finally found the switch, it fits perfectly on the console and is super small. Model is OS202011MS2QN1 by C&K



I got it here with free shipping! https://www.arrow.com/en/products/os202011ms2qn1/ck

Cheers!

[LankyPanky]

Hey Everyone. First of all, thank you to Borti and Tim for making this awesome mod. I can't wait to get my hands on both the NESRGB and N64RGB.

I know this is a little off topic but I thought someone here might be able to help get me started. Over the years I have been collecting consoles and mods for them but never go around to actually installing them. Now that I have more time I'm stoked to get them up and running. I have all the equipment I need to start practising my solder skills except for the flux. I picked up fine lead-free solder (see pic below) made from Sn/Ag/Cu its but I have no idea what type of flux would work best. I know lead-free solder is pretty unconventional but I thought I'd give it a shot (hoping it doesn't suck to work with)...

Does anyone know what kind of flux I should try to find? Even a few suggestions would be great. Thanks!

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1jud ... XJ4bWJUNjA

Edit: So is took almost a week for this post to "clear customs" so I just went ahead and bought a couple different brands from amazon so hopefully one of those work.. Though I'm still open to suggestions.

If you're using flux cored solder (and the one you linked to above is), and you're going to use separate flux too, you need to match the flux to that in the solder core.

I totally thought my solder was without a flux core... stupid me I should have realised that RMA denotes flux cored... Anyway, after replacing a cable on a Genesis power supply I found the flux inside the core wasn't quite enough so I picked up some basic SRA Rosin paste flux from amazon. it seems to be okay but I am expecting another bottle of liquid rosin designed for lead free solder so I'll see how that one compares. I'll post the results in case anyone else is interested in getting into lead free stuff (I'm hoping the extra trouble is better health-wise, though I bet its not by much...)