Nintendo 64 RGB Blur fixing

[zeruel85]

Honestly I don't remember exactly.
I know that if you put multiple LPF in cascade you have a loss in sharpness.

[hellbelly]

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[zeruel85]

Not sure - MLIG has some screen comparisons though - apparently the Gscart lite solves everything & is perfect.

EDIT: they tested Gscart 1.4 & 3.2 as having a slight loss in brightness.

I've just watched again MLIG's RGB308 and they clearly say there's a little bit loss in sharpness, not in brightness (or at least not so noticeable). The reason to this is given (most likely) by multiple LPFs in cascade (e.g. the one you found in gscartsw and another in the OSSC or in an RGB modification to some of the consoles used for the tests), like Voultar and Bob already tell us a lot of time. Older gscartsw provides a THS7374 video amp with LPF on by default, but the newer units, gscartsw_lite, does not have it, and that's why there's some tiny differences between the two products. But in my opinion I don't see any visible loss in brightness.

Just my 2 cents BTW.

[Ikaruga11]

Seems like the low pass filter should be removed or turned off.

[andykara2003]

Not sure - MLIG has some screen comparisons though - apparently the Gscart lite solves everything & is perfect.

EDIT: they tested Gscart 1.4 & 3.2 as having a slight loss in brightness.

I've just watched again MLIG's RGB308 and they clearly say there's a little bit loss in sharpness, not in brightness (or at least not so noticeable).

Sure, they did say the brightness loss was very minimal.

Seems like the low pass filter should be removed or turned off.

I agree, I just bridged J4 on both my PAL and NTSC consoles to turn it off but would have preferred it off by default.

[Ripthorn]

OK, I need help here

My installed board has the Pad Rst# wired to pin 27 and Pad Ctrl to pin 16.
So far the IGR commands listed here does not work: https://github.com/borti4938/n64rgb/tre ... eralRGBmod
My N64 is a Brazilian model with PIF(M)-NUS, does the PIF region matter?

[borti4938]

Which firmware are you running?

I changed the 'standard' button combinations 17 days ago. It might be the case that your device was flashed earlier with another button combination: https://github.com/borti4938/n64rgb/blo ... ams.vh#L53

Try it out...

And is it turned off on your new design Borti?

The ADV7125 does not apply any filtering on the video signal. I designed an addition board for anyone who need that...

[Ripthorn]

Which firmware are you running?

I changed the 'standard' button combinations 17 days ago. It might be the case that your device was flashed earlier with another button combination: https://github.com/borti4938/n64rgb/blo ... ams.vh#L53

Try it out...

I don't know, brought the board from you on July. Everything works fine except the IGR commands.

[borti4938]

Is the pad “ctrl” on the modding board directly connected to the middle pin of controller port 1? It’s important to have continuity between the two points.

If not and if you soldered the wire to pin 16 of the PIF-NUS, then there is something in between. Try to find them an alternative point or solder a wire directly to the controller port.

If you have connection between the two points: What it could also be, is that there is a cold solder joint on the modding board. I do also sometime make a mistake :/

[Ripthorn]

Is the pad “ctrl” on the modding board directly connected to the middle pin of controller port 1? It’s important to have continuity between the two points.

If not and if you soldered the wire to pin 16 of the PIF-NUS, then there is something in between. Try to find them an alternative pint or solder a wire directly to the controller port.

If you have connection between the two points: What it could also be, is that there is a cold solder joint on the modding board. I do also sometime make a mistake :/

The middle pin was no go, no continuity between pin 16 from PIF-NUS.
Now, pad ctrl is connected to pin 16, but the commands listed on the github main page and in the link above does not work.

[borti4938]

you don't have to quote my complete post when it's the post before your post

But you haven't understood:

The middle pin was no go, no continuity between pin 16 from PIF-NUS.
Now, pad ctrl is connected to pin 16

Make sure that you have continuity to the centered pin of the controller port!

Try to find them an alternative point or solder a wire directly to the controller port.

[Ikaruga11]

Read back through some of the thread and couldn't find an answer on this.

Is there any reason why the N64 outputs a 640 x 240 image (which the de-blur function seems to reverse/bypass)? Why doesn't it output 256 x 240 or 320 x 240 like most 240p systems? Does it have anything to do with 480i titles on the system?

I believe some games like Perfect Dark will actually output a resolution of 640x240p instead of 640x480i when hi-res mode is enabled.

[Ripthorn]

you don't have to quote my complete post when it's the post before your post

Old habits die hard

But you haven't understood:

The middle pin was no go, no continuity between pin 16 from PIF-NUS.
Now, pad ctrl is connected to pin 16

Make sure that you have continuity to the centered pin of the controller port!

Try to find them an alternative point or solder a wire directly to the controller port.

Ok, the alternative point/controller port must have continuity with the pin 16 from PIF-NUS to work, right?
Why not skip that part and solder directly on the pin 16?

[zeruel85]

I think the continuity must be between pad 'ctrl' on the pcb and the middle pin of the controller port, not with pin16 of the pif-nus.

[Ripthorn]

@zeruel85
He mentions on github that the controller port 1 is probably connected to pin 16, so I assumed middle pin = controller port
Also, someone here already tried to connect the pad ctrl on pin 16 and works fine.

[zeruel85]

@zeruel85
He mentions on github that the controller port 1 is probably connected to pin 16, so I assumed middle pin = controller port
Also, someone here already tried to connect the pad ctrl on pin 16 and works fine.

It depends on the motherboard revision, they're not all identical.

[borti4938]

Old habits die hard

And they hardly die

@zeruel85
He mentions on github that the controller port 1 is probably connected to pin 16, so I assumed middle pin = controller port
Also, someone here already tried to connect the pad ctrl on pin 16 and works fine.

I see. I will rewrite this part of the readme quite soon. This might be a bit misleading.

I also hope to get rid of the missing installation manual quite soon...

[borti4938]

Just two questions:

- Has anyone ordered a version N64A_20171017 board from OSHPark?
-> If yes, please contact me.

- Is anyone interested in one or two N64A boards - either as a set incl. all parts or as assembled ready to install?
-> If so, please look into my for sale thread.

[borti4938]

Edit: move the answer to the selling thread: viewtopic.php?p=1284237#p1284237

[mdd45]

I have flashed my N64RGB12 board using usb-blaster with this file from etim site: http://etim.net.au/n64rgb/tech/n64rgb12.pof and with this from Borti's github: https://github.com/borti4938/n64rgb/blo ... n64rgb.pof

I have a Pal N64 and using CS75 (works with my 1084s monitor) and gamecube rgb scart. On my two consumer CRT's (with scart RGB input) i toggle the switch (connected to A and G points) and i can't see the deblur in action, with both of the above pof files. Only maybe a slight 0.5mm shift to the right and some small noise artifacts but not a cleaner image. I'm using an Everdrive64 and USA roms.

Is there something i should check?

p.s. This is exactly what i'm getting: https://youtu.be/altELaJh8UE ( viewtopic.php?f=6&t=59267&hilit=n64rgb ). Why is this happening?

[Syntax]

I have flashed my N64RGB12 board using usb-blaster with this file from etim site: http://etim.net.au/n64rgb/tech/n64rgb12.pof and with this from Borti's github: https://github.com/borti4938/n64rgb/blo ... n64rgb.pof

I have a Pal N64 and using CS75 (works with my 1084s monitor) and gamecube rgb scart. On my two consumer CRT's (with scart RGB input) i toggle the switch (connected to A and G points) and i can't see the deblur in action, with both of the above pof files. Only maybe a slight 0.5mm shift to the right and some small noise artifacts but not a cleaner image. I'm using an Everdrive64 and USA roms.

Is there something i should check?

p.s. This is exactly what i'm getting: https://youtu.be/altELaJh8UE ( viewtopic.php?f=6&t=59267&hilit=n64rgb ). Why is this happening?

That's all Tims n64rgb kit does for a crt. Looks like it's working fine.

[mdd45]

So in other words there is no use for deblur when using a crt tv? I have in the mail an ossc though, in that situation the deblur using Tim's n64rgb would make any significant difference?

[andykara2003]

As long as it's not lost focus, you should see the effect even on a consumer CRT - it's not a huge difference but the image looks clearly more pixelated.

[andykara2003]

An interesting development re. the dull whites/colours. I tried to calibrate the colours on my consumer Sony CRT in the service menu using the test suite (SNES) but I found I couldn't distinguish between the colour bars precisely enough to get good results.

The N64 is my favourite retro console so I spent a while in front of Mario 64 adjusting the red, green and blue by eye and ended up with amazing results. It took quite a bit of fiddling but the whites are now absolutely pristine and the colours are every bit as clean and vibrant as the UltraHDMI's

I put on Zelda and again the results were a revelation, much better than I've ever seen on the TV. It was as if a dirty tint was lifted of the screen & I finally have the image I want. It did make me wonder, though, whether the previously dull whites/colours were just because my TV was badly calibrated or was it that the balance of the RGB colours coming from the amp is off.

Maybe it's the latter as other people are experiencing the dull whites - and in that case, perhaps it's possible to rebalance the R, G and B colours electronically before they get to the TV? I might well we way off base here as I'm not very knowledgable on this stuff and as I say it could have just been bad TV calibration.

All I know now is that it's definitely possible to get the clean, vivid colours and whites of the UltraHDMI using an RGB mod without having to affect the gamma levels.

[andykara2003]

Interesting - so it seems to me that as I managed to sort the problem by adjusting the RGB colours in the service menu, this is something that could be cured by a new RGB mod that's able to produce a better balance of the levels of the individual red, green and blue signals. I think this might be a better solution than just adjusting the overall gamma level as you get the originally intended balanced, clean colours/whites rather than just a lighter version of imbalanced colours.

[borti4938]

You don't need something new. Try this.
You ca also adjust each resistor R49, R50 and R51 individually.

My comment in another thread:

White is white - all bits in the digital color vectors are set to one here. In the digital way there is no way to further 'boost' them.

What you can try to do with viletims board:
If you have caps inside your RGB cable, just remove them. They are not needed and may reduce the contrast a bit.

Also, you have R49, R50 and R51 on viletims board. These are 270 ohm resistors, which are unfortunately not labeled but luckely the only 270ohm ones.

These resistors together with the R2R ladder gives a Upp of 0.696V, which is below standard (0.714V in US) but normally close enough.
You can replace them with 280ohm resistors which gives you 0.716V.
If you want to overshoot the standard a bit more to saturate earlier, you may also want to use 290ohm or 300ohm resistors (giving you Upp=0.756V)

I would be also curious to see some comparision shots!

I forgot about the component overlay. I've just uploaded it here.

I use the PAL (and VGA) standard for video which is 0.700 Vpp into 75 ohms. Sync is 0.300 Vpp. NTSC video is 0.714 for video 0.286 for sync, derived from a fraction or something silly like that. They shunned RGB video so it's irrelevant.

[Lawfer]

Does anyone have a list of NTSC N64 serial numbers that are RGB moddable to use as an example?

[andykara2003]

You don't need something new. Try this.
You ca also adjust each resistor R49, R50 and R51 individually.

Thanks!

[borti4938]

I have now ordered a few 280ohm resistors to actively test it

[andykara2003]

Nice one - I'd be interested to see the real world difference - and also caps vs no caps. I use a Gamecube RGB cable which has caps but I don't want to take the them out as it's an official cable..