TV RGB mod thread

[syboxez]

Can report a wonderful success on an Orion TV1933A using the method on the OP. It simply looks incredible. Yet another successful RGB mod.

http://imgur.com/a/cNJB9

[KnuckleheadFlow]

Please add my thread RGB OSD TV Mod - Sony KV-XF21M30 to the success list on the front page. I revisited this TV last night and made some changes and can confirm that it is running RGB via Scart.

Sony Trinitron's with BG-3S chassis are perfect targets for RGB modding because they can have the 75 Ohm terminated RGB and blanking signals fed in through the Teletext port CN307 (mine was unpopulated), 5V for blanking can easily be accessed at the 5V regulator (IC 604) output and the composite video can be fed into the AV port for Synch.

Pretty much anyone who can solder can perform this task. No snipping/board hacking/pin bending necessary.

Also, the OSD continues to work with this mod and just switching the 5V line off returns the TV to normal AV operation (composite input).

The convergence issue I am having with this set is unrelated. I'll sort it out.

So simple. Are these TVs Australia/NZ only?

Can report a wonderful success on an Orion TV1933A using the method on the OP. It simply looks incredible. Yet another successful RGB mod.

Never heard of Orion so I don't know if it's a "good" brand or whatever, but if it isn't, just goes to show even plain, nothing special TVs can end up looking really good!

Hello, everyone!
I'm about to attempt this mod but I have a problem.
My TV doesn't have composite input, only RF.
Is it possible to perform RGB modification?

Service manual:
https://unnisol.000webhostapp.com/pdf/TC2098.pdf

Jungle IC:
https://unnisol.000webhostapp.com/pdf/TDA8362.pdf

Thanks

I'm sure it can, but I've never tried. Pin 15 is external composite video, the schematic shows it's not connected, the datasheet says the TDA8360 has external composite disconnected. So much for that. Perhaps internal CVBS (composite) on pin 13 could be used? Read up on the "internal CVBS" stuff in the datasheet and look at the circuit in the schematic. Seems promising but I've never tried something like this.

If that doesn't lead anywhere, I'm pretty sure I saw someone's mod (in this thread?) where they connected sync directly.

[syboxez]

Orion is a budget TV brand here in the US. They made very low quality CRTs. For instance, the particular one I modded has absolutely zero shielding, hence the color distortion (when I move it around, the areas with the distortion changes).

I'm thinking of lining the inside with copper tape and grounding it, but I'm probably not going to be using it that much. My main TV is still my 32" Sony with an RGB to component transcoder (can't RGB mod it sadly).

[Pikkon]

Pretty much done modding my KV-32FS100,will post some pics in a few days.

[MarkOZLAD]

So simple. Are these TVs Australia/NZ only?

I don't know but the thought did cross my mind that these TVs would be limited to certain regions.

Here is a list of all TVs with that chassis.

The BG-3R is very similar. Here is a list for it.

TylerL had a very similar mod, even easier to do because his had a 5V in the Closed Captioning socket and the socket was there so he didn't even need to solder. His was with the BA1 chassis which appears to have had widespread North American distribution. Here is a list of models.

[Seikenfreak]

So I think I'm picking up a Toshiba 20AF41 tomorrow that appears to be in excellent shape. I picked this model in particular because I bought one new over a decade ago, eventually upgrading and passing the Toshiba along to a friend, and then onto his siblings, finally dying etc. It was an excellent TV.

I had no idea this whole CRT RGB mod was a thing until searched earlier today and Knuckle's post came up about this particular TV.

Anyway, I am very curious about doing this mod on mine. I've dabbled a little in electronics, I'm no stranger to taking things apart, and I have experience with soldering wires and surface mount stuff. What I DON'T have experience with, and might as well be hieroglyphics to me, are schematics and stuff lol

So the original post on the 20AF41 is a little confusing after the initial resistor removal and wire jump. I'm still not exactly sure what the switch is for? Toggling inputs? Not exactly sure what I'm looking at for the paragraph with the switch. Also just the one pictures and it's hard to see everything.

Is there any way that this can be broken down and made more straight forward? Potentially for anyone else in the future wishing to do the same thing on this TV? I have a feeling this is going to be a popular mod for nice consumer CRTs. So, that being said..

1. What components do I need to buy and where? (Switch, plugs, capacitors etc)
2. A simple color coded MSpaint picture of the PCB marking what wires go from point A to point B.

That's about all I need really. I'd be happy to make some guide pics or a parts list myself if I can successfully complete the project.

I'd appreciate any help I can get. I'm going to keep reading through this thread trying to learn what I can.

[Bratwurst]

Can report a wonderful success on an Orion TV1933A using the method on the OP. It simply looks incredible. Yet another successful RGB mod.

http://imgur.com/a/cNJB9

Coincidentally, I just got RGB input working on an Orion TV1334A (13") last night. I had to wire a few resistors to bring down VCC to 4.7V on the blanking pin of M61250BFP before it would display, I interpreted the datasheet as implying that it wanted a signal between 4 and 5 volts for external RGB input because 5V just blacked everything out. All video lines went into pre-established capacitors just before the input pins. Composite sync went to TV/Y IN (pin 41) because EXT C IN (pin 38 composite input) won't work while blanking is active. Certainly a great upgrade on a set that originally only offered RF and composite. It is a cheap budget set for sure, originally no s-video, only one speaker, RCA in the front and coaxial only in the back.

The service manual for Durabrand DBTV1301 had all the information I needed because it uses the exact same chassis part number, so if you can't find documentation on your specific set, try searching the chassis. Manufacturers rebranded sets all the time for different retailers like Walmart and Kmart, etc.

As an aside, given that many of these sets fail to come with their remote controls the JUMBO/oversized universal remotes made by Decibel Electronics (designed for the elderly and visually impaired) are consistently great for accessing every little thing on a television, and support a wide range of devices. It can be difficult to find a universal remote that have the menu, input, enter and display button at the same time. Just make sure you get the code booklet with it.

[MarkOZLAD]

Have just completed modding a Sony KV-XJ29M31, however I am getting a fine grained "checkerboard" effect.

Has anyone else run into this? Should I get a LM1881 Video Sync Seperator and build a sync stripper? My device is outputting Composite video as synch.

I think I've read about this on this thread before but it's becoming so long and hard to search through now, especially with all the broken photobucket links.

[Pikkon]

For your rgb cables it's best to use csync or luma,that should fix your problem.

[MarkOZLAD]

For your rgb cables it's best to use csync or luma,that should fix your problem.

I'm going to build a LM1881 based sync stripper into the TV with an on/off switch, even if only for the practice.

Want this TV to have every option it needs.

[Ryoandr]

I'm going to build a LM1881 based sync stripper into the TV with an on/off switch, even if only for the practice.

Want this TV to have every option it needs.

The problem if you do that is the signals are still getting poluted during all the cable length.
The earlier the sources are cleaned the better.

[MarkOZLAD]

I'm going to build a LM1881 based sync stripper into the TV with an on/off switch, even if only for the practice.

Want this TV to have every option it needs.

The problem if you do that is the signals are still getting poluted during all the cable length.
The earlier the sources are cleaned the better.

That's good to know.

I noticed my device has S-Video output, I think I'll extract the Luma and use it as synch and see what results I get.

[MarkOZLAD]

Well the luma didn't sync correctly. Might be my ghetto wiring, maybe its slightly out of sync from a seperate port. Doesn't matter a lot right now.

After I did some experimenting I realised the issue is with my Scart Composite video breakout wiring. The effect I'm seeing is because of noise getting in somehow. I can confirm this because if I take the Composite video directly from the outputs of my device via high quality cables, the issue disappears.

Will try and rewire with some shielded cables.

[Einzelherz]

So I think I'm picking up a Toshiba 20AF41 tomorrow that appears to be in excellent shape.

FWIW it's a lot easier and safer to just get a quality RGB-Component converter for this tv since it accepts component (based on what I'm seeing in its specs). It'll probably be more expensive though.

[Seikenfreak]

So I think I'm picking up a Toshiba 20AF41 tomorrow that appears to be in excellent shape.

FWIW it's a lot easier and safer to just get a quality RGB-Component converter for this tv since it accepts component (based on what I'm seeing in its specs). It'll probably be more expensive though.

Nah, I'm really in it for the project at this point. Love messing with things and getting technical. Something about installing a SCART socket on a TV and making it look and work as OE as possible makes me warm and fuzzy inside.

I have RGB cables for PS1/2, Saturn/Genesis, Nintendo.. plus Jaguar on the way It would be nice to just plug the cables directly in. As it stands, all of these systems look amazing on my 55" LG 4K OLED with the XRGB Mini so I'm not too concerned about visuals, but I am curious to see this mod in person and if it makes as much of a difference as people say it does.

And I got the lovely TV already! $20

Just S-Video for now.



I've already ordered a bunch of odds and ends. Just need to wait for stuff to arrive. And if Knuckle gets back to me I'd be thrilled to try his PCB out.

Something else I'm curious about, I haven't researched it, and I wouldn't expect to be in this thread, is upgrading the built in speakers on the TV. Finding some small awesome speaker setup and if it's possible to wire that in. I'd assume you'd need some kind of better sound amplifier setup but yea.. Veeeeery curious.

[Einzelherz]

I completely understand that reasoning. I'd love to add RGB to some older 1980s sets just for fun.

[Pikkon]

Finally done with everything and it turned out great,want to thank everyone in this thread for sharing there knowledge,never knew rgb was this great.

This was done on a sony trinitron kv-32fs100.

Click on the pictures for full size.




I only have two rgb cables for now,made one for my saturn and modified a genesis one,both are using csync and I'm using sync on Y on the component of my tv.

[lukilla]

Ps.- Nevermind, the actual chassis is silksreened for hot/cold areas, despite being rf only

Spoiler

So is it ok to rgb mod a hot chassis tv as long as it is connected to a voltage regulator?:

http://media.www.bestbuy.com.mx/media/c ... 353_x1.jpg

edit.- I guess not, just tested one and it is not open line on neutral. Gonna look for some DIY because this tv picture looks so good

[MarkOZLAD]

Well the luma didn't sync correctly. Might be my ghetto wiring, maybe its slightly out of sync from a seperate port. Doesn't matter a lot right now.

After I did some experimenting I realised the issue is with my Scart Composite video breakout wiring. The effect I'm seeing is because of noise getting in somehow. I can confirm this because if I take the Composite video directly from the outputs of my device via high quality cables, the issue disappears.

Will try and rewire with some shielded cables.

So after hours of troubleshooting I tracked the issue down to a.... CHEAP SCART CABLE!!!

Plugged in my super dooper one I purchased a while back and the picture is perfect.

So running Composite Video as sync is fine when RGB modding a SONY KV-XJ29M31.

Now to find somewhere good to mount the blanking switch.

[Syntax]

I haven't solved the H-shift yet. The extron device did not help (SS-200). I am thinking of internalizing a CXA1645 in the TV just to generate a "composite" signal from the incoming sync, which should produce the exactly correct amount of delay on the sync line. I will use that composite only for the sake of driving the TV's input to get a shifted sync signal.

You can often drive and manipulate the H-Phase by a pin on the Jungle I/C. Allowing you far more control than what the service menu provides.



When I add RGB to a consumer set, I look for a pin on the Jungle I/C that can totally control the H-Phase, It's typically driven by a low voltage current.

It's better to do it this way, because you can use the 5V rail coming from a console to drive this pin. Take a 10K trim pot (will give enough play) with 5V and output it to the pin, sweep it across until you get it lined up nicely.

Now, when a console is powered, the 5v will dialed in with the 10K trim pot so that the the horizontal position will automatically be calibrated for RGB.

(This is providing that your RGB cables have a 5v output)

You can also use a switch, of course. A 6PDT is enough to switch your OSD and RGB lines, as well as 5v from the TV to control this.


Just look at the datasheet for your Jungle I/C.

Want to know a real quick way to kill a tube? Cut that LF2FIL pin and leave it floating...
I stupidly thought no voltage was going to be the furthest right. Took about 2 seconds to pop the tube.

Please edit your post to include a warning for idiots like me lol.

[TheMagpyeTrader]

Hello all! I've been doing console mods for a while and wanted to have a go with this.

My first test subject was literally on the side of the road with its cord cut. Poor dear!

Anyway after throwing a new cord on it works great! Only problem is I can't get the sync in correctly.

According to the service manual I've got my blanking and RGB lines in right. The OSD is gone and I'm getting a distorted RGB signal.

https://ibb.co/fV3jSF

I've tried pins 18, 41 and the composite in pin on the front of the board, with and without a sync stripper with no change.

What do you suppose I'm doing wrong?

Thank you ever so much for you time!

[MarkOZLAD]

Forgive me if you've already done this stuff but I'll put a checklist...

1) Are the RGB lines 75 Ohm terminated to ground?
2) Have you tried pumping the Csync/Composite Video through an AV port and then changing to the AV input, turn on blanking and RGB output device? I have never pumped sync directly to a pin.
3) Is the screen going black when you turn on the blanking with no RGB feed?

It's not unusual for the OSD to become faded/off colour.

What model number is the TV?

[Bratwurst]

Hello all! I've been doing console mods for a while and wanted to have a go with this.

My first test subject was literally on the side of the road with its cord cut. Poor dear!

Anyway after throwing a new cord on it works great! Only problem is I can't get the sync in correctly.

According to the service manual I've got my blanking and RGB lines in right. The OSD is gone and I'm getting a distorted RGB signal.

https://ibb.co/fV3jSF

I've tried pins 18, 41 and the composite in pin on the front of the board, with and without a sync stripper with no change.

What do you suppose I'm doing wrong?

Thank you ever so much for you time!

I worked on that exact same chroma chip with my 13" Orion. You may just not be on the right channel/video input for the sync to come through, for my set for example I had to select 'Aux' when running sync through the composite jack, and when I ran it into pin 41 TV/Y IN (through C629 first to protect the chip) it had to be on channel 2/3. If you're piping c-sync into the composite jack make sure it's properly attenuated for the 75 ohm input.

[TheMagpyeTrader]

Forgive me if you've already done this stuff but I'll put a checklist...

1) Are the RGB lines 75 Ohm terminated to ground?
2) Have you tried pumping the Csync/Composite Video through an AV port and then changing to the AV input, turn on blanking and RGB output device? I have never pumped sync directly to a pin.
3) Is the screen going black when you turn on the blanking with no RGB feed?

It's not unusual for the OSD to become faded/off colour.

What model number is the TV?

Yes to all of those questions, it's an Orion 1934

I worked on that exact same chroma chip with my 13" Orion. You may just not be on the right channel/video input for the sync to come through, for my set for example I had to select 'Aux' when running sync through the composite jack, and when I ran it into pin 41 TV/Y IN (through C629 first to protect the chip) it had to be on channel 2/3. If you're piping c-sync into the composite jack make sure it's properly attenuated for the 75 ohm input.

So you mean a 75ohm resistor to ground like my RGB lines then? My input is set to AUX and I tried other channels as well. Same result.

[bimm25i]

You know what's frustrating? When you mod your second larger than 27" Trinitron, this time it was the KV-36FS13 and you are left with a great bright, sharp but flawed RGB picture. All of this is because the CSYNC fed to luma goes through some stupid post processing that delays the image a hair of a second. OH THE HUMANITY!!! THIS THING WEIGHS 200 POUNDS AND DOESN'T WORK RIGHT!!!

Hi I also have a KV-36FS13 I am looking to RGB mod,

is it possible for you to take any pictures of the mod work? Once modded does the TV work with CGA, EGA, and VGA resolutions through RGB?

I am PM'ing you my contact info, if you're available for a 10 minute call sometime I would LOVE to pick your brain.

[bimm25i]

I've been reading about this RGB mod for a couple weeks now. I'm good with electronics and soldering, but have never messed with a CRT. I could use a little guidance. I'm attempting to add RGB to a JVC AV-27230. My Micon and Jungle IC chips seem nearly identical to KnuckleheadFlow's chips.





However, I'm not sure where the blanking signal is. Also, my Micon RGB outs aren't labeled as OSD. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Is this TV not a good candidate? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Mike

The blanking pin is #19 on the TB1253AN followed by 20-22 for R, G ,and B respectively. They are just right for RGB at 0.7Vp-p.

Hoping to reach user Supercrackers - I have a KV-36FS13 that I want to RGB mod but I have a ton of questions:

can I use this board to hookup my RBG feed from a Jamma harness
http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=60330

Do you have any pictures of your install on the KV-36FS13? I have the same model and I want to make this beautiful beast work with my Point Blank PCB.

Do you know if, after the mod, the TV will support 15Khz, 25Khz and 31 KHz signals through the RGB input?

Thank you so much!


Backstory: I have a Maximum Force Showcase cabinet that I am making into a Gauntlet Legends, but I want to still be able to play 15Khz games and GL at 31KHz. My Trinitron, using Y,Pb,Pr has a nicer picture than any arcade monitor I've come across, and If I could get 25 Khz or 31 KHz out of it for a Dark Legacy PCB I'm getting it would be the PERFECT solution for the cabinet. It would let me use any of my consoles AND any of my PCB's and it would also be on the nicest sharpest screen I've seen in a long time. Any help making my dream a reality is appreciated. Thanks all!

[mikejmoffitt]

You know what's frustrating? When you mod your second larger than 27" Trinitron, this time it was the KV-36FS13 and you are left with a great bright, sharp but flawed RGB picture. All of this is because the CSYNC fed to luma goes through some stupid post processing that delays the image a hair of a second. OH THE HUMANITY!!! THIS THING WEIGHS 200 POUNDS AND DOESN'T WORK RIGHT!!!

Instead of all-caps angry posts, use the service menu to correct the shift.

Please, everybody stop using photbucket.

[Seikenfreak]

My project Toshiba 20AF41 has been a success! Thank you to all the people who have provided information in this thread and Knuckle for answering my questions.

This was many hours (days) of work and prep Good part is time was vanishing because I was so engaged in it. I'd start and suddenly its 8 or 10 hours later. Crazy and fun. Learned so much about CRTs.

Did the initial wiring and setup over the span of two days. Then I noticed the image was rotated slightly or something, so this led to two more days of learning about the yoke and convergence rings and how to adjust them. Finally, the specific SCART socket I needed arrived from the UK after two weeks, which then took another 7 hours of final wiring, testing, plus fit and finish.

I'm not sure if the picture is better. I think it is? But that doesn't really matter to me. It was about the journey.. Having the SCART socket built in is awesome. Plus, I got this specific CRT because of sentimental/nostalgic reasons and now I feel even more attached to it. Woooo! It's not perfect. There is room for improvement. I'd love to try this on another TV, but I can't really work on something bigger than 20" on my desk/bench.

Images in Spoiler Tag

Spoiler

In this image of Super Hang-On, you can see how the image was shifted/rotated slightly before I made adjustments to the yoke. And of course, camera picture does not do the image color justice. It's almost blindingly vivid at times.

[nakedarthur]

Thanks to everyone for the wealth of info here! I picked up a KV-27S42 to mod, but I have a couple questions I was hoping you guys could answer. I don't trust myself inside the set so I'm going to wire up the inputs and switch, and then have a guy I know that still works on CRTs install it for me. I was wondering though if someone could tell me specifically where the best place to wire in the following for this set so I don't waste his time (component numbers from service manual would be great!):

- Ground
- 5V power
- S-Video Luma

I'm especially wondering about the sync since I want to avoid the checkerboarding from the composite input. Are people connecting it to the actual port, or somewhere further up the line? Also, does anything else special need to be done to use Luma for sync on this set or will it automatically use it? Thanks!

[suprcrackers]

You know what's frustrating? When you mod your second larger than 27" Trinitron, this time it was the KV-36FS13 and you are left with a great bright, sharp but flawed RGB picture. All of this is because the CSYNC fed to luma goes through some stupid post processing that delays the image a hair of a second. OH THE HUMANITY!!! THIS THING WEIGHS 200 POUNDS AND DOESN'T WORK RIGHT!!!

Instead of all-caps angry posts, use the service menu to correct the shift.

Please, everybody stop using photbucket.

Mike, what I trying to convey was when you are working on a huge CRT and things don't go your way, it can be frustrating to say the least. I did fix it a few posts later. Also while I have used photobucket in the past, there was no way for me to know they would make the changes they did to their terms of service. Since they changed, I have not and will not use their service again.