
Got the focus really nice in the center of the tube:

Sure that isn't a comb filter or something? My Jungle chip has 30 pins in a through-hole IC with RGB inputs, OSD RGB inputs, and the like. It's part number isn't close to any other Jungle ICs either.mvsfan wrote:Found my jungle ic.
the tv is a kv-32fs120.
I was a bit unsure what pin im supposed to feed 5v to to turn the rgb lines on.
Im assuming its the 3 pins 25, 26, 27 for YUV in that get switched to rgb since it looks like i only have 1 set of input on the chip.
That Jungle I/C operates only in the YUV color space. Those aren't RGB inputs. Two totally different standards, as well as video signals.mvsfan wrote:Found my jungle ic.
the tv is a kv-32fs120.
I was a bit unsure what pin im supposed to feed 5v to to turn the rgb lines on.
Im assuming its the 3 pins 25, 26, 27 for YUV in that get switched to rgb since it looks like i only have 1 set of input on the chip.
My suggestion is to grab the service manual for each set and review both of their capabilities. I just reviewed them both, so I'll tell you to stay away from the 27FS13 as its Jungle I/C operates only in the Luma & Chroma colorspace. You'd have to drive the guns directly on that set, and I'm not going to go back and forth on an AC coupled video circuit.leonk wrote:I'm itching to try it out myself. I have access to a KV-27FS13 or KV-27FS100
Any suggestions on which one will be a better candidate for the mod?
Yep, this one only had S-video. The beautiful cylindrical-shaped tube sort.BazookaBen wrote:Oh crap, are you guys doing these to Trinitron's that were pre-component video? As in the best they had was S-video?
I may consider trying this in that case, since I'm not really a fan of how most component-capable Trinitrons were flat (maybe all). I'd really like a curved tube that can do something beyond s-video.
That's a good point. You can always try using Luma as a sync source to get around the processing delay of C-Video. Your mileage will vary, though. Some sets it just won't matter, it's all depends on how it's processed.mikejmoffitt wrote:
As for stealing sync, at least on this set I recommend using S-video's luma line, because that has a different H offset that is exactly what is needed, without any fucking around. Composite was shifted to the left to account for time needed for the comb filter and more importantly composite video decoding.
Man, I had a couple consumer-grade sets before going the BVM route that had horrible convergence issues, and both were trinitrons. The first one I think was your model. That one had much worse convergence than yours, though. Anyway, with both TVs, I was trying to adjust the magnetic rings, and on both of them I accidentally snapped off one of the handle tab things that help me move it. I could still move it, it was just harder. Don't break the tabs (and I'm not talking about the thing on the BVM that I broke; I'm talking about the tabs on the magnetic rings).mikejmoffitt wrote:Yep, this one only had S-video. The beautiful cylindrical-shaped tube sort.BazookaBen wrote:Oh crap, are you guys doing these to Trinitron's that were pre-component video? As in the best they had was S-video?
I may consider trying this in that case, since I'm not really a fan of how most component-capable Trinitrons were flat (maybe all). I'd really like a curved tube that can do something beyond s-video.
I mounted my ports like this:
http://i.imgur.com/NRcghkk.jpg
There's a nifty switch near the front so I can reach it without difficulty:
http://i.imgur.com/gouPvK3.jpg
I think my yoke needs readjustment. The magnetic rings on the neck are more or less stuck in place. I managed to free a few, but they don't want to rotate far, and I do not wish to force them in case they break which I have dealt with before.
I've always adjusted the yoke and neck rings while the set is switched off, then powered it on to see results and then adjust further. Can I get a sound confirmation on which parts of the neck I should / should not touch? Obvious no-nos includes the conductive side of the neck board and by extension the CR-9 socket.
As for stealing sync, at least on this set I recommend using S-video's luma line, because that has a different H offset that is exactly what is needed, without any fucking around. Composite was shifted to the left to account for time needed for the comb filter and more importantly composite video decoding.
Xyga wrote:It's really awesome how quash never gets tired of hammering the same stupid shit over and over and you guys don't suspect for second that he's actually paid for this.
That Jungle I/C operates only in the YUV color space. Those aren't RGB inputs. Two totally different standards, as well as video signals.Voultar wrote:I just want to say something, and in no way do I mean to be a dick.
If you don't have experience or knowledge in servicing HV equipment. You probably need to just step away and do some thorough research. This isn't something you want to play with and "get wrong". You can get seriously, seriously hurt here.
I helped mikejmoffitt because he knows how a CRT (by principle) works. I wouldn't have felt guilty had he shocked his nuts off into the next plane of existence.
PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK!
thanks. I have a high voltage probe and i know how to discharge a crt with it.
mvsfan wrote:Found my jungle ic.
the tv is a kv-32fs120.
I was a bit unsure what pin im supposed to feed 5v to to turn the rgb lines on.
Im assuming its the 3 pins 25, 26, 27 for YUV in that get switched to rgb since it looks like i only have 1 set of input on the chip.
I'm not sure what you're getting at here, or who you're addressing.Guspaz wrote:The quality difference between RGB and YUV converted to RGB is going to be minimal to non-existent.
The FS100 looks to be RGB-happy.mvsfan wrote:That Jungle I/C operates only in the YUV color space. Those aren't RGB inputs. Two totally different standards, as well as video signals.Voultar wrote:I just want to say something, and in no way do I mean to be a dick.
If you don't have experience or knowledge in servicing HV equipment. You probably need to just step away and do some thorough research. This isn't something you want to play with and "get wrong". You can get seriously, seriously hurt here.
I helped mikejmoffitt because he knows how a CRT (by principle) works. I wouldn't have felt guilty had he shocked his nuts off into the next plane of existence.
PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK!
thanks. I have a high voltage probe and i know how to discharge a crt with it.
mvsfan wrote:Found my jungle ic.
the tv is a kv-32fs120.
I was a bit unsure what pin im supposed to feed 5v to to turn the rgb lines on.
Im assuming its the 3 pins 25, 26, 27 for YUV in that get switched to rgb since it looks like i only have 1 set of input on the chip.
got it now. chip wont work. get another tv. ;P back to craigslist.
btw, do any of the flat screen trinitrons have the right chip or are they all Yuv?
I was addressing the mentality of "I guess I'll get rid of this TV and get a different one because it only supports YUV", and if the goal is to get an improvement in image quality by moving from composite to RGB, then YPbPr would serve that goal just as well, and you can get like a $30 passive board to do that conversion, put it inside the TV, and still wire up whatever kind of RGB SCART connector you want. If the goal is RGB input into the TV, that'll get you it, without any real difference in quality...bobrocks95 wrote:I'm not sure what you're getting at here, or who you're addressing.Guspaz wrote:The quality difference between RGB and YUV converted to RGB is going to be minimal to non-existent.
This thread is for adding an RGB input to a Trinitron for convenience, not that it will necessarily look better.
The previous post about the Jungle chip is about determining if the set can be modded to accept straight RGB. A YUV-only Jungle IC is not capable of accepting RGB of course.
I just don't know what point you were getting at exactly?
Okay, yeah I see where you're coming from. In this case though, I think the TVs that have been talked about so far only support up to S-Video and not component. If you got it for free and thought it could be RGB modded it's not a bad idea to pass it on.Guspaz wrote:I was addressing the mentality of "I guess I'll get rid of this TV and get a different one because it only supports YUV", and if the goal is to get an improvement in image quality by moving from composite to RGB, then YPbPr would serve that goal just as well, and you can get like a $30 passive board to do that conversion, put it inside the TV, and still wire up whatever kind of RGB SCART connector you want. If the goal is RGB input into the TV, that'll get you it, without any real difference in quality...
On the other hand, I'm realizing that the post said the TV does YUV, not YPbPr, so that's a whole different story. I see boards for $25 that do YUV to RGB, but not the other way around.
Xyga wrote:It's really awesome how quash never gets tired of hammering the same stupid shit over and over and you guys don't suspect for second that he's actually paid for this.
Yeah, well that's only when everything's relative like on an NTSC signal. When I display RGB on my BVM, all those options are disabled.bobrocks95 wrote:I don't know if you're being sarcastic or not but the chip is a fairly complex pre-amp that, looking at the block diagram for mine, mixes in settings (contrast, sharpness, brightness, etc.) and performs some sync separation as well I believe. I have little experience with block diagrams so I might be wrong, but it's a 64-pin package on my TV and is probably doing more than you might be assuming.
Xyga wrote:It's really awesome how quash never gets tired of hammering the same stupid shit over and over and you guys don't suspect for second that he's actually paid for this.
It shouldn't disable those options just because you're on RGB...atheistgod1999 wrote:Yeah, well that's only when everything's relative like on an NTSC signal. When I display RGB on my BVM, all those options are disabled.bobrocks95 wrote:I don't know if you're being sarcastic or not but the chip is a fairly complex pre-amp that, looking at the block diagram for mine, mixes in settings (contrast, sharpness, brightness, etc.) and performs some sync separation as well I believe. I have little experience with block diagrams so I might be wrong, but it's a 64-pin package on my TV and is probably doing more than you might be assuming.
The RGB inputs on your BVM probably run through at least 3 or 4 ICs too before they reach the electron guns.atheistgod1999 wrote:Yeah, well that's only when everything's relative like on an NTSC signal. When I display RGB on my BVM, all those options are disabled.