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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2016 11:41 pm 



Joined: 20 Jan 2016
Posts: 73
I'm working on a new, older set I obtained now. The KV-27S42. My impressions so far are that this set has a much nicer picture because the tube is curved - no fuzzy, blurred scanlines at the edges and no scrolling distortion. This model is harder to find though.

The only luma input on this set is on the S-Video which is switched on plug-in, so I had to grab the shield and ground wires and put them on green and blue ground on the SCART so that plugging the SCART in would trigger the S-Video switching. (This set also has a picture shift issue with composite, though I saw no other downside to composite vs. luma as sync source.)

I'm torn because this set has a very nice picture, but no front composite or S-Video inputs (which I like to have for those systems that are not RGB-able), and no component input. I think there's another model which has the same jungle as the KV-27FS12's but a curved picture, and I may have to watch for one of those to pop up. Sadly, this set has the same issue with checkerboarding when there's a picture on the sync source.

Image
(The apparent purity problem in the corner of this picture doesn't appear in real life... I'm not sure how the camera saw it. The set used to have this problem to the naked eye but I've corrected that with a stick-on magnet.)
Image
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2016 12:26 am 



Joined: 07 Apr 2016
Posts: 1191
Holy crap. That looks amazing! :o


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2016 1:37 am 


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Location: San Jose, CA
That's the same model as I used at the start of the thread. It's a great set, and it looks fantastic with RGB.

What appears to be a purity problem is actually a moire pattern from your camera's sensor grid and the TV phosphor lines. That's why when it goes out of focus (back up a little after focusing) the colors will look perfect.

I picked up a massive 36" FD WEGA set, and I'm going to see if I can RGB it easily too. I have the 36" cousin of the 27S42 back at home too.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2016 6:06 am 



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Posts: 73
Update: I think I'm going to keep my KV-27FS12 as my main 27-inch TV. The scrolling barrel distortion is not nearly as bad on it as it is on my 36-incher, and barely noticeable compared to the 27S42. The picture quality overall on RGB is nearly identical, although the 27S42 is not accepting composite sync from my NESRGB (fed into luma), and composite video sync still has the problem of checkerboarding in the video. Maybe Sync on Luma from the NESRGB would work without a checkerboard problem, but that alone isn't why I'm leaning against the 27S42.

The 27FS12 also has significantly better sound quality. I'd happily use the built-in stereo speakers on that set for my retro games. The 27S42 speakers just have a bit less pop and clarity and the Genesis (technically I have an X'EYE) really stands out as being better on the FS. One of the sets was destined for a family member, and it'll be the 27S42, which is still totally worth having over any non-Sony TV, but just a wee bit less nice than the FS. Oh, and the flimsy foot broke when I was carrying it down the stairs so I have to superglue it back together before I give it away...


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2016 8:34 pm 



Joined: 06 Oct 2012
Posts: 1185
those screenshots look great, but

One of the greatest benefits of RGB modding a tv to me, Is because Large Rgb Crts are so scarce.

Why not do it to a 43" Mitsubishi instead?

:)


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 3:09 am 



Joined: 20 Jan 2016
Posts: 73
mvsfan wrote:
those screenshots look great, but

One of the greatest benefits of RGB modding a tv to me, Is because Large Rgb Crts are so scarce.

Why not do it to a 43" Mitsubishi instead?

:)


I'll be modding my 36-inch Sony, but I'm not looking forward to it. For one thing, I can't move it to my desk where I usually work because I can't move it, period. Even with a decently strong helper, bringing it down the stairs was a nightmare. For another, the bigger picture tubes are harder to calibrate for convergence and other issues. I'll probably be printing a hard copy of the schematic and working on it in the basement where it sits.

Also, swapping the SCART and flipping the switch are tricky when they're on the back of a huge TV. I don't want to mount a switch on the front, but I'm considering maybe the top - can't make the wires too long though. I've asked retro-console-accessories if she'll make me a coax SCART extension so I can run a tail into the cabinet and not go behind the set.

The big TVs do have pretty big scanline gaps, though.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2016 3:39 am 


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Hey I've got a quick question. I'm working on a Toshiba 36af43 which has a TA1310N jungle IC http://www.datasheetspdf.com/PDF/TA1310N/672934/1. The OSD RGB in pins (7,8,9) call for 1.2vp-p which are fed by 0.1uf caps. It's my understanding that typical RGB video is 0.7vp-p. How would I go about amplifying my signal so it matches 1.2vp-p?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2016 5:57 am 



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suprcrackers wrote:
Hey I've got a quick question. I'm working on a Toshiba 36af43 which has a TA1310N jungle IC http://www.datasheetspdf.com/PDF/TA1310N/672934/1. The OSD RGB in pins (7,8,9) call for 1.2vp-p which are fed by 0.1uf caps. It's my understanding that typical RGB video is 0.7vp-p. How would I go about amplifying my signal so it matches 1.2vp-p?


If I were doing it, I would wire it up and see how it looks, perhaps increase the picture and contrast on the set and that may be just fine. You could also try inputting on pins 3-5 with 2.1V on pin 6.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2016 6:25 am 


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I'll give it a shot. Had it wired up anyway before I realized that it needed 1.2vp-p.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 3:05 am 


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I've work on monitors but mostly in the way of capkits, so I'd feel better having some of you guys glance over my plans before going forward.

Recently received a Toshiba 20AF44 that's using a m61283fp ic. darknezz19 was working on the same set before switching to a trinitron

Schematic for external rgb (osd) seems almost identical to other rgb mods in the thread. I can't seem to tell if the rgb is analog or digital as the documentation mentions both digital or analog on the same pins.

Image

This looks a bit different than the ntsc colour change frequency mentioned earlier

Image

5v to pin 24 for full screen blanking, and C-Sync to the composite input.

Image
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Last edited by Kingbuzzo on Wed Jul 13, 2016 5:25 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 4:26 am 


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The 1.uF couple caps and 75 ohm pull-down terminations are pretty indicative of a analog inputs.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 10:06 pm 



Joined: 13 Oct 2015
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Hi Kingbuzzo. Received your PM on Neogeo.com forums and though it's best to convo here so maybe other can get something out of it.

Which part are you not sure about or running into issues with?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 11:11 pm 


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Even better! Thanks. Since your post, I think we can confirm that it's analog RGB, yet you still only managed to get a green rolling picture. Was this where the project ended? I recall having similar issues with an arcade monitor that wasn't receiving a proper common ground.

darknezz19 wrote:
Ive been trying to get RGB on a toshiba tv and I have the RGB inputs lifted from the pcb and the blank pin tied to 5v but its not working. I get a green picture thats scrolling but no graphics. Maybe my ic is digital RGB levels or YUV colorspace not sure?

TV service mauel schimatic
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/958566 ... =18#manual

IC with RGB in that we are tapping.
http://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/2 ... 283FP.html

Anyone know how to tell if the inputs are analog like we need and if they're using RGB or YUV
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 11:34 pm 



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It's been so long my friend, I'm just not sure. What I think helped me was cutting the 4 traces feeding rgb from the osd chip. Then just tap off the legs and make sure you terminate properly, the caps can be left out if it makes testing any easier and then added once you have a working setup. If you have already been trying maybe you can show some clear pics and others maybe can be of more help.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2016 5:58 pm 



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Posts: 73
darknezz19 wrote:
It's been so long my friend, I'm just not sure. What I think helped me was cutting the 4 traces feeding rgb from the osd chip. Then just tap off the legs and make sure you terminate properly, the caps can be left out if it makes testing any easier and then added once you have a working setup.


Oh, you guys are making me cringe.
You don't need to cut traces. Locate the 1/.1/.01 cap on the R/G/B lines going into the jungle, and desolder it. Cutting traces is very destructive and you risk cutting the wrong thing. If the caps are SMD chips, I suggest picking up a hot air gun like this: B00ITMPQS2

Once you lift the caps, you have pads on either side of the cap. So you can grab the source, run it to a switch, and then back to your breakout board with some through-hole caps to substitute for the ones you removed, and then run that to the other pad. If you accidentally rip a pad off, you can solder to the IC leg as plan B. You may find a better place to grab the source as well, most TVs I've worked with have a larger resistor to ground or through-hole jump wire upstream, closer to the OSD IC.

I really don't recommend you even bother testing without the substitute caps or the 75Ω to ground termination of the RGB SCART. It will not look good and you'll have to rework your wiring to add those things in, and each time you rework it you increase the chances of lifting a pad or hurting something else.

BTW, small update on the S42 - I am going to open it up again and try to activate the YUV lines that come from the PIP board (which my set doesn't have, but the legs are still present on the jungle IC). That would give me component video support which is one of my complaints about this set, although it would have to be switched manually just like the RGB SCART. The S-video will also need to be switched so the set uses luma for sync, I hope it's safe to assume that the grounds for Y, U, and V are common?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2016 11:03 pm 


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darknezz19 wrote:
It's been so long my friend, I'm just not sure. What I think helped me was cutting the 4 traces feeding rgb from the osd chip. Then just tap off the legs and make sure you terminate properly, the caps can be left out if it makes testing any easier and then added once you have a working setup. If you have already been trying maybe you can show some clear pics and others maybe can be of more help.


You guys should really read all of the information I posted at the beginning of this thread.

The .1uF coupled caps are an imperative.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 8:25 pm 



Joined: 18 Jul 2016
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Great work on this everyone. :mrgreen:

I have a PVM-14L5 which I love. Snagged it off the throw away pile at a Value Village for $0. Ive not been that successful finding a 20" display let alone any other RGB capable monitors. I hope to be attempting this mod on a consumer TV soon.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 4:38 am 



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A few small updates on the 27S42:
1. I completely failed to notice but the chip seems to have an unused SCART "RGB1" input I could (should) have used. In theory, the OSD RGB2 would still overlay the RGB1 so you could have OSD and RGB at the same time. Since I've already done the standard OSD bypass method on this TV, I'm not too interested in testing this out, although maybe I will get my hands on another one of these TVs to try it. If it works, it will be much simpler and the only thing you need to put on a switch is the YS1 wire to activate the RGB - so a simple SPST switch would do*.

2. I got a sync-on-luma cable and the NESRGB works great with that one (as I may have previously noted, the TV wouldn't grab sync from CSYNC and was giving me a checkerboard pattern with composite video sync.

3. I've tried adding component video. I am getting a picture, but it's very dim, so bad that adjusting brightness isn't good enough. I am running through a .01 cap, which I've confirmed is necessary. I have also tried terminating with 75Ω, but that made the picture even worse. Does anyone have any ideas what I may need to do to brighten the component video? I'm hoping amplifying it won't be necessary but that's the only thing I haven't tried. This jungle supposedly wants EY IN: 0.7Vp-p (no sync) / ER-Y IN: 0.735Vp-p (75% Color Bar) / EB-Y IN: 0.931Vp-p (75% Color Bar) which seems like it's in the ballpark of what I would be putting into it.

*Or, just use pin 16 from the SCART, but I'm not too keen on relying on this in the world of NTSC SCART. In PAL countries, RGB-supporting consoles adhere to the standard and know that putting out the voltage is essential to operate. Here in the US, we mod our consoles with RGB amps, NESRGB's, and similar things which were designed to be used with BNC connectors on PVM's, and I don't expect them to always use pin 16.

EDIT: I was struck with a realization: Splitting the luma to both s-video and YUV caused the weaker luma signal. If I don't send luma to the s-video port, there's no sync - but using composite video (into s-video luma) as sync does seem to provide a better-but still not good-result. I also put the 75Ω to ground back in because the picture was noticeably blurrier without it. The problem now is the picture is very dim and dull on component. I may try wiring up a THS7314 and see if that gives me a better picture - I'll have to wait to get one in from China. Regardless, I see no way the TV can have simple plug-and-play component video because I'd need custom cables for each console if they don't already provide component and composite wires at the same time.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2016 2:24 pm 



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Hi guys. Just registered here for this topic but have been lurking for some time. I have an RCA 24F650T installed in a custom built cabinet (Namco Galaga/Pacman style) that I built to run the PC games I make. I've been using the component inputs, and they work fine, but this requires me to have a specific video card that is capable of outputting YPbPr. Another issue I'm having is that the channel has to be changed to Input2 occasionally, and I'd like to avoid that. I'm hoping this may be a solution there as well. Also I wouldn't mind a slightly sharper picture, though what it displays now it really good.

So now I'm looking at adding RGB. Preferably a VGA port, though VGA has separate sync so I think I'll have to convert to composite sync and I'll probably still need something like an ArcadeVGA(I need 15Khz right?). Better than What I'm using now, I suppose. The 24F650T uses the ITC008 chassis. It has a single TDA9567 video processing chip, so that means that there are no OSD RGB pins to tap into. However, the TDA9567 does have R/V G/Y B/U input pins which seem to already be properly terminated after coming onto the board through a header. It looks like I just need to plug right into that header and then tell the TV to use that input somehow. Any ideas?

ITC008 Videoprocessing Part
Image

TDA9567 Block Diagram
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Last edited by InfamousSabre on Fri Jul 29, 2016 3:08 am, edited 3 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 3:25 am 


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Well I finally finished my Sony KV-27FS13 Trinitron. It was very easy to work with although this was my second unit I worked on. I picked up my first KV-27FS13 from a Mexican guy on craigslist. The agreed price was $10. When I came to pick it up he turned it on and the channels continually changed channels. I thought this was an auto programming feature because it hadn't been plugged in for so long. I took it home and quickly forgot about the channel skipping. Went to work on it, only to find when I was ready to give it an RGB go, there was something very, very wrong with the set.

So fast forward to picking up a new KV-27FS13 once again from craigslist this time for free. I made sure to check it before hand. I must say I love this set. It has a great picture and with the jungle IC on the second board it is super easy to work on. My one question for tjsynkral is, are you getting a kind of striped darkness coming from the sync through input 4? Is this normal? Is there any way to fix this?

*Edit* I think I found the answer by reading your first post about the KV-27FS13.

"As I noted in an edit above, composite video sync causes issues on the Trinitrons so a composite sync cable will be a must."
So just to be sure what you are saying is I need "pure sync", "raw sync", or whatever name it is called?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 3:28 pm 



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suprcrackers wrote:
"As I noted in an edit above, composite video sync causes issues on the Trinitrons so a composite sync cable will be a must."
So just to be sure what you are saying is I need "pure sync", "raw sync", or whatever name it is called?


You should use a composite sync cable, although sync on luma also seems to provide a good result. Regardless, feed the sync into the luma channel (I recommend component Y). Use cables from retro_console_accessories.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2016 11:03 pm 


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Regarding the RGB1 input on the S42's jungle IC, the microcontroller must first enable this input. Just wiring to it won't work (which I tried).
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 3:18 am 



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mikejmoffitt wrote:
Regarding the RGB1 input on the S42's jungle IC, the microcontroller must first enable this input. Just wiring to it won't work (which I tried).


Even with YS1 high? I do see that the microcontroller has the ability to disable the input, though the default is enabled.

EDIT: Confirmed it's disabled. It does shift the OSD down a bit, but otherwise does nothing helpful.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2016 5:22 pm 


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Sorry about the length, but I’m pretty amped up about this and nobody understands why I’m all of a sudden obsessed with cutting up 15+ year old TVs! I need an outlet.
My brother and I only started considering an CRT RGB setup with Sony P/BVMs (or other similar monitors) in the last few months. Turns out we're late to the party and it seems almost impossible to get one (reasonably) in our area. Guys posting them on Kijiji get like 5 replies within 5 minutes. We'd pretty much given up when I happened upon this thread. This is really cool, I want to thank mikejmoffitt, tjsynkral and especially Voultar for their information.
My brother wanted a 20" to fit on his desk and at first I was going to work on his generic RCA before deciding to get a test TV in case I screw up. I picked up this Toshiba 20AF41C for a week ago Saturday, it turned out way better than the RCA and came with a DVD player. Checking the service menu, its powered on time listed in hex was 0E8E, a mere 3,726 hours!
Image

Using the service manual I found the OSD RGB lines and after a bit of continuity checking I plotted out the paths on the board and decided to desolder resistors R121, R122 and R123, attach the wires out to the switch from there and feed the RGB into the 0.1 µF caps C620, C621 and C622.
Micro:
Image

Jungle IC:
Image

Board wired up:
Image

The switch is kinda ugly, but it works. I was worried about interference with everything so close but in all the pictures I've seen of this no one else seems to care. Probably should've gone with DE-15 and VGA cables but decided to use BNCs because it's a ghetto BVM. It’s going RGB in, coax to switch where it's terminated with 75 O resistors. I soldered the shielding to the board for grounding and holding it in place, electrical tape for strain relief. The ends don’t budge so that’s good. OSD RGB comes into the top header pins, to the switch terminals over 4.7 kO resistors (replacing R121/2/3). Switch out goes out of the bottom header. 5v for blanking I got off the Jungle IC’s pin 2 to the blanking pin’s resistor. I left the blanking line untouched on account of the diodes. Sync is going into component Y. I’m thinking about feeding it directly to an IC, but I’m not sure where.
Image

So how’d it turn out? Pretty good, I’d say. This is from a model one Genesis, 75O and 220 µF inline on RGB and csync. The phone’s camera messes around with white balance and brightness, so it’s kind of hard to show what I’m seeing.
Image
Image
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The service menu has an “OSD horizontal” adjustment which I nudged a bit, but there’s a significant bit of cut off top and bottom. I don’t know if the vertical adjustment in the service menu will apply to the OSD but I’m adding a separate switch to the blanking line to see the game RGB with the service overlay, so I’ll see.
Image

Maybe it’s just my pickiness, but though it looks good but I think it can look better. I was always terrible at calibrating pictures, after a while of changing settings I can’t tell what looks good or bad anymore. It seems the colours are a little dull, too white? Not sharp enough? Maybe I was just expecting too much and this is as good as it gets. (Reds here are supposed to look redder, almost too red)
Image

So I’ve got four questions I’d like to throw out there:

I think Voultar mentioned a TV’s stock RGB decoupling capacitors might be insufficient. I’ve got some 1.5 µF SMT caps, maybe they’ll make it look better in place of the 0.1 µF?

Is there an advantage to running sync directly to an IC instead of using the Y component line, which seems ok horizontally? Should I put it in to pin 6 of the microprocessor? That pin is being fed from pin 33, sync out, on the Jungle IC.

I’m thinking of trying this on a TV with lots of horizontal lines, like the Sony P/BVMs have. Someone mentioned JVC’s 800 line AV-32Ds and I’m picking one up for $30 on Monday. The thing is, I’ll probably get rid of it after I modify it, since I’m looking to put something into my New Astro City. I’m willing to throw together a new bracket for the tube, but I think the 32” JVC will be just too big to fit without more modifications than I’m willing to do. Who knows if it’ll even compare favorably with the Nanao MS9 (which probably needs a cap kit anyway).
Anyone know of any other 800ish line TVs? I found references online to old articles from 1991 mentioning Panasonics with 800 lines but not much else and no one other than JVC advertised line count it seems. Are there other sources that list various TVs and more detailed specs?

Speaking of the NAC, am I correct in assuming this will also work well with JAMMA and MAME with an ArcadeVGA/JPAC?

Edit: Fixed giant images.
Edit 2: I put the 1.5 mic caps on last night before this post was approved. Yes, I do think they helped. To say the least!
Image
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Image
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 4:49 pm 



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KnuckleheadFlow wrote:
The switch is kinda ugly, but it works. I was worried about interference with everything so close but in all the pictures I've seen of this no one else seems to care. Probably should've gone with DE-15 and VGA cables but decided to use BNCs because it's a ghetto BVM.


A very good result! I personally prefer to install a SCART connector as the input method - I bet you're using a SCART to BNC adapter for all your games anyway. I get 2 SCART connectors really cheap from one of these: ebay.com/itm/281423387337

I also get the switches very cheap on eBay from China: ebay.com/itm/351705373445

KnuckleheadFlow wrote:
The service menu has an “OSD horizontal” adjustment which I nudged a bit, but there’s a significant bit of cut off top and bottom. I don’t know if the vertical adjustment in the service menu will apply to the OSD but I’m adding a separate switch to the blanking line to see the game RGB with the service overlay, so I’ll see.


Usually the OSD is affected by all service adjustments. If you want less overscan on the vertical, you'd reduce v-size.

You mention PVMs and one thing I've been thinking of is doing this modification to a non-RGB supporting PVM such as the 20N5U.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 5:06 pm 


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tjsynkral wrote:
KnuckleheadFlow wrote:
The switch is kinda ugly, but it works. I was worried about interference with everything so close but in all the pictures I've seen of this no one else seems to care. Probably should've gone with DE-15 and VGA cables but decided to use BNCs because it's a ghetto BVM.


A very good result! I personally prefer to install a SCART connector as the input method - I bet you're using a SCART to BNC adapter for all your games anyway. I get 2 SCART connectors really cheap from one of these: ebay.com/itm/281423387337

I also get the switches very cheap on eBay from China: ebay.com/itm/351705373445

KnuckleheadFlow wrote:
The service menu has an “OSD horizontal” adjustment which I nudged a bit, but there’s a significant bit of cut off top and bottom. I don’t know if the vertical adjustment in the service menu will apply to the OSD but I’m adding a separate switch to the blanking line to see the game RGB with the service overlay, so I’ll see.


Usually the OSD is affected by all service adjustments. If you want less overscan on the vertical, you'd reduce v-size.

You mention PVMs and one thing I've been thinking of is doing this modification to a non-RGB supporting PVM such as the 20N5U.


Funny you should mention that, I got into this whole thing looking to see if it's possible to add RGB to pro monitors that lack it. The JVC monitors were common without RGB and going for significantly less than Sonys. I hope modding the 800 TVL JVC or a good consumer Trinitron will be good enough for me. Hoping it'll be better than my Nanao at least.

And because I can't make things easy on myself, I'm going to make full coax cable with BNC connectors. I probably should change my mind on that, since a VGA cable is shielded enough, but I just love that BNC click. And I already bought most of the parts.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 5:57 pm 


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The pics you posted look great Knuckle. ongrats :D


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 7:00 pm 


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tjsynkral wrote:
You mention PVMs and one thing I've been thinking of is doing this modification to a non-RGB supporting PVM such as the 20N5U.


From what I've heard, the N5 should be even easier, since the board is the same as the N6: you remove a resistor to make the monitor think it's an N6, you add the missing components to the board which already has the unpopulated pads for them, you add some BNC connectors to the rear panel which might even already have holes for the missing connectors under the sticker (not clear on that), and do the same for the missing switch in the front...

It's not so much injecting RGB into a display that doesn't support it, as it is enabling functionality that's already there. As I've got a stack of N5Us at home, I wish that I had the knowledge to pull off such a thing myself, or knew somebody local who could do it.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 7:33 pm 



Joined: 18 Jul 2016
Posts: 13
KnuckleheadFlow wrote:

Board wired up:
Image

The switch is kinda ugly, but it works. I was worried about interference with everything so close but in all the pictures I've seen of this no one else seems to care. Probably should've gone with DE-15 and VGA cables but decided to use BNCs because it's a ghetto BVM. It’s going RGB in, coax to switch where it's terminated with 75 O resistors. I soldered the shielding to the board for grounding and holding it in place, electrical tape for strain relief. The ends don’t budge so that’s good. OSD RGB comes into the top header pins, to the switch terminals over 4.7 kO resistors (replacing R121/2/3). Switch out goes out of the bottom header. 5v for blanking I got off the Jungle IC’s pin 2 to the blanking pin’s resistor. I left the blanking line untouched on account of the diodes. Sync is going into component Y. I’m thinking about feeding it directly to an IC, but I’m not sure where.


Its always nice to see people use polyimide tape with these circuit mods. :D


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2016 7:35 pm 


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Posts: 1119
Guspaz wrote:
tjsynkral wrote:
You mention PVMs and one thing I've been thinking of is doing this modification to a non-RGB supporting PVM such as the 20N5U.


From what I've heard, the N5 should be even easier, since the board is the same as the N6: you remove a resistor to make the monitor think it's an N6, you add the missing components to the board which already has the unpopulated pads for them, you add some BNC connectors to the rear panel which might even already have holes for the missing connectors under the sticker (not clear on that), and do the same for the missing switch in the front...

It's not so much injecting RGB into a display that doesn't support it, as it is enabling functionality that's already there. As I've got a stack of N5Us at home, I wish that I had the knowledge to pull off such a thing myself, or knew somebody local who could do it.


How do you select the input channel?


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