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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 2:21 pm 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 582
CZroe wrote:
Just picked up a KV-32FS100 (chassis BA5D) for a song...
Anyway, I see so much old and new info in the thread that I’m not quite sure where to start. My understanding is that I can mix with the OSD input by adding some components but every post I find on this seems to second-guess how it was done within a page or two. Where should I start? Thanks!


https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=63622
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MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 6:20 pm 



Joined: 04 Mar 2018
Posts: 44
MarkOZLAD wrote:
CZroe wrote:
Just picked up a KV-32FS100 (chassis BA5D) for a song...
Anyway, I see so much old and new info in the thread that I’m not quite sure where to start. My understanding is that I can mix with the OSD input by adding some components but every post I find on this seems to second-guess how it was done within a page or two. Where should I start? Thanks!


https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=63622

Thank you!


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 9:56 pm 



Joined: 02 Nov 2018
Posts: 7
mikejmoffitt wrote:
THE GIST OF IT
With second RGB / telext input, injecting with working OSD:
<image> (first image in firstvpost)



Hey all,

This image shows to connect sync to pin 19 for scart. Ive noticed that sync is usually sent to pin 20 on the cables im looking to purchase for my game consoles. Should I connect pin 20 or 19 to sync in the tv?

Scart pinouts call pin 19 to be sync out and pin 20 to be sync in so im thinking more so pin 20 since it is my input side. Hope someone can help me clear up my confusion. Thanks in advance!


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2018 11:48 pm 



Joined: 30 Jul 2017
Posts: 49
LiqwidFox wrote:
mikejmoffitt wrote:
THE GIST OF IT
With second RGB / telext input, injecting with working OSD:
<image> (first image in firstvpost)



Hey all,

This image shows to connect sync to pin 19 for scart. Ive noticed that sync is usually sent to pin 20 on the cables im looking to purchase for my game consoles. Should I connect pin 20 or 19 to sync in the tv?

Scart pinouts call pin 19 to be sync out and pin 20 to be sync in so im thinking more so pin 20 since it is my input side. Hope someone can help me clear up my confusion. Thanks in advance!


I've got sync wired to Pin 20 on the SCART sockets I've been wiring in. Assumed it was right because its been working.. Maybe I've been lucky? haha


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2018 11:52 am 



Joined: 02 Feb 2005
Posts: 302
If you put a scart socket on the TV (for an RGB mod), composite video/sync must wired to pin 20 as that's an input (console cables are wired to pin 20 not 19). The output scart socket on a switcher will have composite video/sync wired to pin 19 so you can connect the latter to the former with a standard male scart to male scart cable that has composite video crosswired (19 to 20 and 20 to 19). Same thing for audio pins.

On a real scart TV the main or only socket will have pin 20 as input and pin 19 as output for when the TV is connected to an external device like a VCR.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2018 8:36 pm 



Joined: 02 Nov 2018
Posts: 7
Pin 20 it is. Thanks guys!


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2018 7:34 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 87
what cables we need to shield to avoid interference? we need to shield the blanking wire too? or just the 3 external rgb and sync ones?

also, i planning on buy that philips 29 set as my 29 flat sony blow up, do you guys can confirm if that one can be modded? i cant find the jungle chip just that "hercules" TDA12001H1, any help will gonna be very helpful ,thanks all!

service manual: https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/ ... -aa-21143/


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2018 7:37 pm 



Joined: 16 Dec 2018
Posts: 26
Location: QLD Australia
HellRazor wrote:
what cables we need to shield to avoid interference? we need to shield the blanking wire too? or just the 3 external rgb and sync ones?

I didnt shield any of them and had no issues.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2018 9:09 am 



Joined: 28 Dec 2018
Posts: 9
Hi All,

I saved this set from being thrown away by a relative, It has a really nice picture but unfortunately only has composite inputs back and front. After looking at the schematics it appears to have the jungle chip and osd combined into the one unit. (So the OSD snipping method is not an option) , It has teletext built in and i was wondering if there is a way to tap into that?


I have paid for the service manual as it can not be found anywhere on the internet , I have uploaded to Archive.org for the community.


If anyone has knowledge in this help would be appreciated.

IC Datasheet:
https://www.datasheetarchive.com/TDA9367-datasheet.html

Pictures:

https://imgur.com/a/f2p4OGd

Service Manual:

https://ia801504.us.archive.org/27/item ... NIC_EN.pdf


I have been looking at the European equivalent with the same chassis wired slightly different for component, F Blank (Pin 45 is not utilized in my model) Do you believe it is worth trying the following:


Three RCA inputs soldered directly to the RGB pins with 75Ohm resistors to ground and 0.1uf (104) capacitors to pins 46 - 48

a toggle switch from 5V point to Pin 45 to initiate blanking


then try rgb and component signals to test?


European Model with MX-5ZA Chassis

https://www.scribd.com/document/3964311 ... Mx-5za-Sch


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2018 10:41 am 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 582
I think in order to mod this you will need to work out how to setup the “Option Bits” in the service menu to enable Scart. The schematic appears to imply there are versions with Scart. Perhaps see if you can find a schematic for the same model with Scart and then check out the option bit settings from there.

I have a datasheet somewhere for this jungle. I think they call them UOC. I’ll dig it up and share it.

UOC III Datasheet
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OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2018 11:49 am 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 87
MarkOZLAD wrote:
I think in order to mod this you will need to work out how to setup the “Option Bits” in the service menu to enable Scart. The schematic appears to imply there are versions with Scart. Perhaps see if you can find a schematic for the same model with Scart and then check out the option bit settings from there.

I have a datasheet somewhere for this jungle. I think they call them UOC. I’ll dig it up and share it.

UOC III Datasheet


Amazing Mark! i think that one gonna be a good one to try, that one has component too so if i fail to mod it i still can use it
By the way i finish the SONY KV-29T76 BA4-B and all works fine! i not have any pics right now but i planning to show all the tv sets im modding after finish

Thanks again for everything!


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2018 1:54 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 87
next one its that 21 sony curved crt, i not find the model tag on the tube (what for me indicates someone already did some job on it, the flyback is also not sony), the good thing is it got basically the same ICS from the 29T76 one! so going do the same method and see what happens, fingers crossed =D
EDIT: its a KV-21S85
Jungle is CXA2060BS and micro controller is M37273M8-241SP, im almost 100% sure its another BA-4B Chassis

Image
Image

The only difference i see from this to BA-4D is the surface mount resistors numbers (BA-4D are 086,087,088 and BA-4B are 087,088 and 089)
Image

and 5.6K inline resistors instead 4.7K:
Image

removed:
Image


Last edited by HellRazor on Sun Dec 30, 2018 5:10 am, edited 5 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2018 2:38 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 87
The lil monster arrive, i still want to find a 34 and a 40 inch set :twisted:
Image


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2018 7:11 pm 



Joined: 13 Dec 2018
Posts: 8
I am in need of some help doing the RGB mod.

Could someone post a good, sharp photo of how they have their female scart lead wired? What I am having difficulty with is the 75Ohm to ground termination on each of the color lines. I possibly don't understand the concept 100%. I wire the proper inline resistor (per markozlad's spreadsheet) to the "injection" point on the PCB prior to the jungle IC, then I run a wire from that resistor and connect the 75 Ohm resistor to it, which is then connected to a ground point on the PCB. I then connect another wire to the same 75 Ohm resistor, to the end that is not connected to ground, which will interconnect with the inline resistor mentioned previously, and in turn to the R, G, or B input. I have all three color lines set up this way. I power on the television first, which will show a properly blanked screen, but, as soon as I turn on the RGB source, the GFI socket all is plugged into trips immediately, indicating there's a short to ground, I assume.

If I omit the 75 Ohm to ground connection, this does not happen -- the GFI does not trip, but I also get no image, just a bunch of black and white squiggles on the screen.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks!


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 Post subject: Toshiba 24AF44 RGB Mod
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 1:18 pm 



Joined: 30 Jul 2017
Posts: 49
obitus1990 wrote:
I am in need of some help doing the RGB mod.

Could someone post a good, sharp photo of how they have their female scart lead wired? What I am having difficulty with is the 75Ohm to ground termination on each of the color lines. I possibly don't understand the concept 100%. I wire the proper inline resistor (per markozlad's spreadsheet) to the "injection" point on the PCB prior to the jungle IC, then I run a wire from that resistor and connect the 75 Ohm resistor to it, which is then connected to a ground point on the PCB. I then connect another wire to the same 75 Ohm resistor, to the end that is not connected to ground, which will interconnect with the inline resistor mentioned previously, and in turn to the R, G, or B input. I have all three color lines set up this way. I power on the television first, which will show a properly blanked screen, but, as soon as I turn on the RGB source, the GFI socket all is plugged into trips immediately, indicating there's a short to ground, I assume.

If I omit the 75 Ohm to ground connection, this does not happen -- the GFI does not trip, but I also get no image, just a bunch of black and white squiggles on the screen.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks!


Not sure this image will help you at all. I wire the 75R resistors directly to the ground pins next to their color pins. And I have all the relevant ground pins on the SCART socket tied together to the main ground pin 21. You can do a google image search for SCART pinout and get various diagrams to show you which pin does what.
Spoiler: show
Image


I finished up my Toshiba 24AF44 up on Christmas Eve. The rest of the caps showed up yesterday but now I'm not in the mood to take the TV apart again to do it :lol: TV is working well as far as I can tell. Here's some pics for reference and inspiration. The diagram is how I've got mine set up and working, but for all I know there could be something not perfect. That's for the experts to figure out.

Spoiler: show
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 4:12 pm 



Joined: 27 Dec 2014
Posts: 45
MarkOZLAD wrote:
kynrek wrote:
I have a Sharp 36R-S50 that I would like to RGB mod and add a SCART port to. I found the service manual but I’ve never read a schematic before. I have done an RGB mod on my N64 and a few other mods so I can handle soldering I just need help coming up with a plan of where to connect the RGB and Sync signals.

https://elektrotanya.com/cgi-bin/downlo ... sn-92m.pdf


This is a perfect candidate for the OSD mux method.

R2024,R2025 and R2026 are your OSD RGB inline resistors, 6800 Ohm

R803, R804 and R805 are the OSD RGB ground resistors. These will need to be removed. Your new inline resistors will be 1100 Ohm (see table above). 75 Ohm terminations of course. As these resistors are surface mount you will probably want to connect your RGB to the legs of R2024,R2025 and R2026 that are closest to the jungle.

R2027 is the inline on blanking, 6800 Ohm, R802 is the ground resistor 3300 ohm. R802 can be removed, then insert a 75 ohm terminated wire from scart pin 16, through a 3300 Ohm resistor onto the leg of R2027 that is closest to the jungle. The jungle requires a minimum of 0.7V to blank which is perfect for using scart pin 16.

The jungle IX3253CE is the same as a TA1268N.


So I have the tv working and the SNES looks great but with the N64 in rogue squadron in canyons it is pitch black. Both systems have retroRGB amp circuits installed. Inline capacitors seem to have no effect on the picture, resistors on the rgb lines only make the whole picture darker, this makes me think perhaps the rgb signal needs boosted further. Thoughts? Is this issue “black level restoration”?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 5:02 pm 



Joined: 27 Dec 2014
Posts: 45
kynrek wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote:
kynrek wrote:
I have a Sharp 36R-S50 that I would like to RGB mod and add a SCART port to. I found the service manual but I’ve never read a schematic before. I have done an RGB mod on my N64 and a few other mods so I can handle soldering I just need help coming up with a plan of where to connect the RGB and Sync signals.

https://elektrotanya.com/cgi-bin/downlo ... sn-92m.pdf


This is a perfect candidate for the OSD mux method.

R2024,R2025 and R2026 are your OSD RGB inline resistors, 6800 Ohm

R803, R804 and R805 are the OSD RGB ground resistors. These will need to be removed. Your new inline resistors will be 1100 Ohm (see table above). 75 Ohm terminations of course. As these resistors are surface mount you will probably want to connect your RGB to the legs of R2024,R2025 and R2026 that are closest to the jungle.

R2027 is the inline on blanking, 6800 Ohm, R802 is the ground resistor 3300 ohm. R802 can be removed, then insert a 75 ohm terminated wire from scart pin 16, through a 3300 Ohm resistor onto the leg of R2027 that is closest to the jungle. The jungle requires a minimum of 0.7V to blank which is perfect for using scart pin 16.

The jungle IX3253CE is the same as a TA1268N.


So I have the tv working and the SNES looks great but with the N64 in rogue squadron in canyons it is pitch black. Both systems have retroRGB amp circuits installed. Inline capacitors seem to have no effect on the picture, resistors on the rgb lines only make the whole picture darker, this makes me think perhaps the rgb signal needs boosted further. Thoughts? Is this issue “black level restoration”?


By increasing the R G and B "cut off" values in the service menu, I was able to get the screen brighter and fix the issue!


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 7:42 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 87
cool as hell! so that wire parts downside the board not need to be shielded at all?

its my impression or you open a drilled hole on board? want to do that too on mine ones :)


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 8:09 pm 



Joined: 30 Jul 2017
Posts: 49
HellRazor wrote:
cool as hell! so that wire parts downside the board not need to be shielded at all?

its my impression or you open a drilled hole on board? want to do that too on mine ones :)


Going to guess you're referring to my pics.

1. Wire shielding is debatable. If you can do it, and you have the materials and space to do it, then I'm sure it would be better to do it. I don't have any shielded wire and not sure where I'd get it besides tearing apart VGA cables. Tried that before and its a pain in the butt to work with the wire. I think I see some interference on this 24AF44 board only if I get real close to the screen and look at a static element like text? That could be lack of shielding or routing of the wire.. or maybe its not interference causing that. So I would say it isn't 100% necessary, depending on your setup, but it can't hurt. Try to avoid the power supply/high voltage section of the board though.

I started using this ribbon cable since it makes for a much cleaner install, the wire gauge is easy to work with, it's color coded, and it works with ribbon cable connectors that also make for a clean install and the connector only plugs in one way.

If someone can point me towards some shielded wire, with color choices, in a reasonable gauge.. Please let me know :)

2. The hole in the top left corner of board/picture? Yea, I opened that hole up a tad. The 20AF41 board had a large enough hole there that I could fit the wire through. The hole was smaller on this 24AF44 board so I used a Dremel with a burr bit to widen it a tad. This setup is ideal for these Toshiba AF chassis as the board slides into a plastic rail (on either side of board) that is part of the front fascia, and the rear cover plastic has little slats that supports it from the rear.

Installing it this way and creating a separate pigtail assembly for the SCART socket and piece of PCB makes it easy to service it. Just unplug the main board from the SCART socket board and it all comes out like normal. I also use the small piece of PCB prototype board to install the various diodes and resistors required in-between the SCART and main board.

I think what I'd like to do next is put together a SCART -> TV test board. Right now, I have a pigtail made for the ribbon cable and the SCART socket, and then use one of those electrical test bread boards and jam in various components to fit. It's clumsy to work with, doesn't look great, and isn't a rugged setup. I want to make a single PCB that has both the SCART socket (or two), the ribbon cable connector or maybe screw clamps as well too if needed, and then place fixed locations on the board for pots on the RGB lines and other spots to easily install/remove diodes or resistors etc.

..but also I'm not sure I have any reason to ever mod another TV again so maybe I shouldn't bother.


Last edited by Seikenfreak on Sat Dec 29, 2018 8:23 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 8:21 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 87
Seikenfreak wrote:
HellRazor wrote:
cool as hell! so that wire parts downside the board not need to be shielded at all?

its my impression or you open a drilled hole on board? want to do that too on mine ones :)


Going to guess you're referring to my pics.

1. Wire shielding is debatable. If you can do it, and you have the materials and space to do it, then I'm sure it would be better to do it. I don't have any shielded wire and not sure where I'd get it besides tearing apart VGA cables. Tried that before and its a pain in the butt to work with the wire. I think I see some interference on this 24AF44 board only if I get real close to the screen and look at a static element like text? That could be lack of shielding or routing of the wire.. or maybe its not interference causing that. So I would say it isn't 100% necessary, depending on your setup, but it can't hurt. Try to avoid the power supply/high voltage section of the board though.

I started using this ribbon cable since it makes for a much cleaner install, the wire gauge is easy to work with, it's color coded, and it works with ribbon cable connectors that also make for a clean install and the connector only plugs in one way.

If someone can point me towards some shielded wire, with color choices, in a reasonable gauge.. Please let me know :)

2. The hole in the top left corner of board/picture? Yea, I opened that hole up a tad. The 20AF41 board had a large enough hole there that I could fit the wire through. The hole was smaller on this 24AF44 board so I used a Dremel with a burr bit to widen it a tad. This setup is ideal for these Toshiba AF chassis as the board slides into a plastic rail (on either side of board) that is part of the front fascia, and the rear cover plastic has little slats that supports it from the rear.

Installing it this way and creating a separate pigtail assembly for the SCART socket and piece of bread board makes it easy to service it. Just unplug the main board from the SCART socket board and it all comes out like normal. I also use the small piece of bread board to install the various diodes and resistors required in-between the SCART and main board.


oh yeah just about that, i think its nice to talk about the finishment so we can make not only CRT RGB mods, but quality mods, man thanks for the explanation helps a lot!

EDIT: about the multi color shielding: was thinking about termo retractable multi color cable with some old copper wire around, should works, its just not plug the "shield around" cable on the two points to not create gnd looping, thats what i read on google lol


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 8:59 pm 


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Location: Australia
HellRazor wrote:
Seikenfreak wrote:
HellRazor wrote:
cool as hell! so that wire parts downside the board not need to be shielded at all?

its my impression or you open a drilled hole on board? want to do that too on mine ones :)


Going to guess you're referring to my pics.

1. Wire shielding is debatable. If you can do it, and you have the materials and space to do it, then I'm sure it would be better to do it. I don't have any shielded wire and not sure where I'd get it besides tearing apart VGA cables. Tried that before and its a pain in the butt to work with the wire. I think I see some interference on this 24AF44 board only if I get real close to the screen and look at a static element like text? That could be lack of shielding or routing of the wire.. or maybe its not interference causing that. So I would say it isn't 100% necessary, depending on your setup, but it can't hurt. Try to avoid the power supply/high voltage section of the board though.

I started using this ribbon cable since it makes for a much cleaner install, the wire gauge is easy to work with, it's color coded, and it works with ribbon cable connectors that also make for a clean install and the connector only plugs in one way.

If someone can point me towards some shielded wire, with color choices, in a reasonable gauge.. Please let me know :)

2. The hole in the top left corner of board/picture? Yea, I opened that hole up a tad. The 20AF41 board had a large enough hole there that I could fit the wire through. The hole was smaller on this 24AF44 board so I used a Dremel with a burr bit to widen it a tad. This setup is ideal for these Toshiba AF chassis as the board slides into a plastic rail (on either side of board) that is part of the front fascia, and the rear cover plastic has little slats that supports it from the rear.

Installing it this way and creating a separate pigtail assembly for the SCART socket and piece of bread board makes it easy to service it. Just unplug the main board from the SCART socket board and it all comes out like normal. I also use the small piece of bread board to install the various diodes and resistors required in-between the SCART and main board.


oh yeah just about that, i think its nice to talk about the finishment so we can make not only CRT RGB mods, but quality mods, man thanks for the explanation helps a lot!

EDIT: about the multi color shielding: was thinking about termo retractable multi color cable with some old copper wire around, should works, its just not plug the "shield around" cable on the two points to not create gnd looping, thats what i read on google lol


Or you can cut up a $1 RCA cable and be done.

Suggesting wrapping copper wire around an insulated one and using that inside a TV.....That's dangerous and outdated. We're not in Cuba. (well i'm not)


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 9:33 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 87
Syntax can you please explain we more, why its dangerous to wrap the copper around a insulated cable besides buy one shielded? its not the same thing? thanks (ps: im a noob about all the things secure electrical) and i suggest puting the termo cap above the copper wire not leaving exposed on tv

another question: i was thinking RCA normal cables are too thin for component and RGB signals, thats just a myth?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 10:35 pm 



Joined: 30 Jul 2017
Posts: 49
Oh yea, hadn't thought of using RCA cable. I had chopped the ends off some to use the connectors but didn't consider that the wire is shielded. Hmm wonder how thick or thin it is and pliable.

And in terms of dangerous, I'll guess that he read it as having bare copper wire wrapped around it, which would indeed be a very bad idea (it would/could short between things inside the TV and cause a fire or kill you etc).. And even wrapping it with electrical tape doesn't sound like a great idea. As Syntax said, it'd be a lot easier and safer to just source some type of shielded wire (Monoprice RCA cables?) and chopping the connectors off.

In terms of analog signal wire, I've been told it does not have to be of any significant gauge (thickness). You can also see by tearing apart something like a VGA cable that the signal wires are extremely thin..

And take anything I say with a grain of salt. I would advise listening to anything Syntax or MarkOZLAD says over me. They have far more knowledge and experience with this stuff than I do.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 11:13 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 87
well i think thats is a "you better shield than care about cable colors" lol, anyway you guys are right the RCA or thin industry cables sounds a lot better idea


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2018 12:28 am 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 582
I pick up quality VGA and KVM cables from thrift. Look for thick, heavy cables.

They have shielded RGB cables inside and also have a shield around the entire cable. They are also colour coded and have other wires you can use for blanking etc.

For audio I use RCA.
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OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2018 9:35 pm 



Joined: 30 Jul 2017
Posts: 49
@MarkOZLAD or @Syntax, where are you guys tapping audio in? Think I noticed this with the first set but it didn't really bother me at the time, but I believe I'm only getting Mono. I have the wires tapped into the RCA jack solder points, but there must be some other trickery in the circuit to enable stereo or something. This board has a simulated "Surround" option which seems to only work for half a second when I turn it on or off. When I was testing this, I instead ran RCA cables into the jacks themselves and it seemed to work okay? Also just tried the 240p Test Suite Sound Test and Left and Right are coming from both speakers.

Feel like I asked about this forever ago and never quite understood it. Like there is some sorta short-to-ground trigger that enables stuff in the circuit. I had a look at the schematic and the datasheets but nothing jumped out at me. "Stereo Pilot Level Detection Pin" on the Sound Decoder?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2018 10:10 pm 


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Plug an rca into the red rca jack on the TV and listen to the magic.

It's a make or break connection in the red rca.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2018 10:31 pm 



Joined: 30 Jul 2017
Posts: 49
Omg why didn't I think of trying that. Amazing! I love you.

This is why you get paid the big bucks.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2018 11:30 pm 


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Joined: 09 Aug 2017
Posts: 1245
Location: Australia
When you cut up the rca cable to do the mod always keep the cable ends as they come in handy for this.
Most of the sets I do will have a blank plug in the red rca for customers to choose between mono or stereo.

You could make it a switch if you really wanted to.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2018 11:54 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 87
Can you guys please confirm if that OSD mux calculations are right? will finish the mod now and need to confirm that resistors
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