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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2018 11:48 pm 


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Joined: 07 Jun 2017
Posts: 90
noobola wrote:
New user, been lurking this thread for a few days. I have a 25 inch Sanyo that has been barely used that I would like to add RGB to, it only has RF at this point. I have found the following documentation for it, or something very close to it:

https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/ ... nfo/17353/

and here is a picture of the label on the back:

Image

Does anyone have any idea how big of a pain it would be to add rgb to this tv based on the pdf and the label? What should I be looking for in the service manuel specifically?


Page 26, looks like a great candidate
Image

Edit:
Also on page 29:
Image

Someone please correct me if this isn't right
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2018 11:16 pm 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 250
noobola wrote:
New user, been lurking this thread for a few days. I have a 25 inch Sanyo that has been barely used that I would like to add RGB to, it only has RF at this point. I have found the following documentation for it, or something very close to it:

https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/ ... nfo/17353/

and here is a picture of the label on the back:

Image

Does anyone have any idea how big of a pain it would be to add rgb to this tv based on the pdf and the label? What should I be looking for in the service manuel specifically?



Very interesting that you say it is RF only. The documentation clearly mentions an AV port. If this is the case the first thing I would be looking to do is to install the AV circuit. It should be very straightforward, examine your board and rebuild the "FRONT AV IN" circuit that is visible on page 29 of the schematic. You will want to do the Audio IN circuit too. Look for K1001 on the board.

Once the FRONT AV IN circuit is complete you will also need to change service menu option 83 "AV Option". Bit 2 should be 1. Service manual suggests the byte should be 84 (Hex).

You will need to do this so you can get Sync into the TV. Can't do RGBS without S! It MAY be possible to send sync through an RF modulator (VCR even) but it would be unusual to do so.

After you have AV input then you can worry about RGB modding.


EDIT: One thing to beware of is these LA768XX Jungle chips are often set in Digital OSD mode which requires a 1.0V p-p RGB signal instead of the 0.7V p-p that scart and VGA provide.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2018 11:11 pm 



Joined: 06 May 2018
Posts: 3
[quote="Self_Control_Me"]content://media/external/file/11423

hello all, can anyone see the above jungle ic pic? This is the chip in a KV-36FS210 and would like to rgb mod it, can someone tell me where to start?

i have a bunch of rgb modded consoles plugged into a hydra 8 port and the output scart cable has an lm1881 sync stripper in it. some consoles output sync over composite and some over luma. wi

[img]/sdcard/Pictures/Screenshots/Screenshot_2018-05-06-12-08-22.png[/img]

see if that worked


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 Post subject: Re: 27" Trinitron to RGB mod success (KV-27S42)
PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2018 8:17 pm 



Joined: 06 May 2018
Posts: 3
Voultar wrote:
I just want to say something, and in no way do I mean to be a dick.

If you don't have experience or knowledge in servicing HV equipment. You probably need to just step away and do some thorough research. This isn't something you want to play with and "get wrong". You can get seriously, seriously hurt here.

I helped mikejmoffitt because he knows how a CRT (by principle) works. I wouldn't have felt guilty had he shocked his nuts off into the next plane of existence.

PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK!

mvsfan wrote:
Found my jungle ic.

the tv is a kv-32fs120.

I was a bit unsure what pin im supposed to feed 5v to to turn the rgb lines on.

Im assuming its the 3 pins 25, 26, 27 for YUV in that get switched to rgb since it looks like i only have 1 set of input on the chip.


That Jungle I/C operates only in the YUV color space. Those aren't RGB inputs. Two totally different standards, as well as video signals.



leonk wrote:
I'm itching to try it out myself. I have access to a KV-27FS13 or KV-27FS100

Any suggestions on which one will be a better candidate for the mod?


My suggestion is to grab the service manual for each set and review both of their capabilities. I just reviewed them both, so I'll tell you to stay away from the 27FS13 as its Jungle I/C operates only in the Luma & Chroma colorspace. You'd have to drive the guns directly on that set, and I'm not going to go back and forth on an AC coupled video circuit. :)



The 27FS100 however, is a winner.

Image


Just use the information that I gave in the thread.

Pins 41, 42, and 43 are your RGB inputs. Take them out of circuit, and tie 75 ohm resistors to ground to match impedence for the 75 ohm load, and add a .1uf coupling cap for black level restoration.

Pin 40 is blanking. Tie pin 40 high to a low voltage source (3v-5v) when you want to enable the RGB input.

If you want me to get REALLY technical...

1) Buy a female SCART socket that's panel mountable. Why? because it's a fucking standard. And even though I roll my owns cables, I like standards. Of course, you can use whatever you want.

2) If you're doing SCART. Wire it up per the SCART standard, I prefer Euro. (Do your 75ohm to ground terminations as well as your .1uF DC caps on the OUTPUTS of the connector to simplify things.)

Image

3) Be a real man and use a template to cut out your SCART connector port.

Image

4) Wire that shit up. Hijack stereo audio and sync from a set of composite inputs. If you're wiring a switch (I use a 6PDT) to switch your OSD lines and RGB inputs, wire that shit up, too.

Image

5) Button it all together.

Image


I've touched on this in passing on various threads when people ask me about doing this. It starts in the service manual. Look up the service manual for the set you'd want to do and review the block diagram, schematics, and chips employed.


does pin 40 on the cxa2154as need a resister or can 5v be tied directly to it? i'll just need to replace the resister i remove to use the solder points, correct?


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