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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2018 11:48 pm 


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Posts: 108
noobola wrote:
New user, been lurking this thread for a few days. I have a 25 inch Sanyo that has been barely used that I would like to add RGB to, it only has RF at this point. I have found the following documentation for it, or something very close to it:

https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/ ... nfo/17353/

and here is a picture of the label on the back:

Image

Does anyone have any idea how big of a pain it would be to add rgb to this tv based on the pdf and the label? What should I be looking for in the service manuel specifically?


Page 26, looks like a great candidate
Image

Edit:
Also on page 29:
Image

Someone please correct me if this isn't right
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed May 16, 2018 11:16 pm 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 282
noobola wrote:
New user, been lurking this thread for a few days. I have a 25 inch Sanyo that has been barely used that I would like to add RGB to, it only has RF at this point. I have found the following documentation for it, or something very close to it:

https://www.electronica-pt.com/esquema/ ... nfo/17353/

and here is a picture of the label on the back:

Image

Does anyone have any idea how big of a pain it would be to add rgb to this tv based on the pdf and the label? What should I be looking for in the service manuel specifically?



Very interesting that you say it is RF only. The documentation clearly mentions an AV port. If this is the case the first thing I would be looking to do is to install the AV circuit. It should be very straightforward, examine your board and rebuild the "FRONT AV IN" circuit that is visible on page 29 of the schematic. You will want to do the Audio IN circuit too. Look for K1001 on the board.

Once the FRONT AV IN circuit is complete you will also need to change service menu option 83 "AV Option". Bit 2 should be 1. Service manual suggests the byte should be 84 (Hex).

You will need to do this so you can get Sync into the TV. Can't do RGBS without S! It MAY be possible to send sync through an RF modulator (VCR even) but it would be unusual to do so.

After you have AV input then you can worry about RGB modding.


EDIT: One thing to beware of is these LA768XX Jungle chips are often set in Digital OSD mode which requires a 1.0V p-p RGB signal instead of the 0.7V p-p that scart and VGA provide.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2018 11:11 pm 



Joined: 06 May 2018
Posts: 3
[quote="Self_Control_Me"]content://media/external/file/11423

hello all, can anyone see the above jungle ic pic? This is the chip in a KV-36FS210 and would like to rgb mod it, can someone tell me where to start?

i have a bunch of rgb modded consoles plugged into a hydra 8 port and the output scart cable has an lm1881 sync stripper in it. some consoles output sync over composite and some over luma. wi

[img]/sdcard/Pictures/Screenshots/Screenshot_2018-05-06-12-08-22.png[/img]

see if that worked


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 Post subject: Re: 27" Trinitron to RGB mod success (KV-27S42)
PostPosted: Sat May 19, 2018 8:17 pm 



Joined: 06 May 2018
Posts: 3
Voultar wrote:
I just want to say something, and in no way do I mean to be a dick.

If you don't have experience or knowledge in servicing HV equipment. You probably need to just step away and do some thorough research. This isn't something you want to play with and "get wrong". You can get seriously, seriously hurt here.

I helped mikejmoffitt because he knows how a CRT (by principle) works. I wouldn't have felt guilty had he shocked his nuts off into the next plane of existence.

PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK!

mvsfan wrote:
Found my jungle ic.

the tv is a kv-32fs120.

I was a bit unsure what pin im supposed to feed 5v to to turn the rgb lines on.

Im assuming its the 3 pins 25, 26, 27 for YUV in that get switched to rgb since it looks like i only have 1 set of input on the chip.


That Jungle I/C operates only in the YUV color space. Those aren't RGB inputs. Two totally different standards, as well as video signals.



leonk wrote:
I'm itching to try it out myself. I have access to a KV-27FS13 or KV-27FS100

Any suggestions on which one will be a better candidate for the mod?


My suggestion is to grab the service manual for each set and review both of their capabilities. I just reviewed them both, so I'll tell you to stay away from the 27FS13 as its Jungle I/C operates only in the Luma & Chroma colorspace. You'd have to drive the guns directly on that set, and I'm not going to go back and forth on an AC coupled video circuit. :)



The 27FS100 however, is a winner.

Image


Just use the information that I gave in the thread.

Pins 41, 42, and 43 are your RGB inputs. Take them out of circuit, and tie 75 ohm resistors to ground to match impedence for the 75 ohm load, and add a .1uf coupling cap for black level restoration.

Pin 40 is blanking. Tie pin 40 high to a low voltage source (3v-5v) when you want to enable the RGB input.

If you want me to get REALLY technical...

1) Buy a female SCART socket that's panel mountable. Why? because it's a fucking standard. And even though I roll my owns cables, I like standards. Of course, you can use whatever you want.

2) If you're doing SCART. Wire it up per the SCART standard, I prefer Euro. (Do your 75ohm to ground terminations as well as your .1uF DC caps on the OUTPUTS of the connector to simplify things.)

Image

3) Be a real man and use a template to cut out your SCART connector port.

Image

4) Wire that shit up. Hijack stereo audio and sync from a set of composite inputs. If you're wiring a switch (I use a 6PDT) to switch your OSD lines and RGB inputs, wire that shit up, too.

Image

5) Button it all together.

Image


I've touched on this in passing on various threads when people ask me about doing this. It starts in the service manual. Look up the service manual for the set you'd want to do and review the block diagram, schematics, and chips employed.


does pin 40 on the cxa2154as need a resister or can 5v be tied directly to it? i'll just need to replace the resister i remove to use the solder points, correct?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2018 4:04 pm 



Joined: 27 May 2018
Posts: 18
Hi guys! First of all, thanks for all the infos and sorry for the noob question. I tried searching the thread, but 50+ pages are a lot :D

I just purchased a JVC TM-H1900G and I want to add the RGB input to it. I'm no expert and I never worked on CRTs, so I would like to ask if it's dangerous. What precautions should I take? Obviously, I will be touching the board exclusively, but I read some horror stories about CRTs, so I want to be careful.

Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2018 4:00 pm 


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Recently picked up a Panasonic PC11R10R with an AN5160NK Jungle IC. The TV OSD only uses and only has red and green outputs with a blanking. The jungle IC is confusing though as there isn't an RGB in, just what i assume is a green in. The OSD red is connected to the red out to the electron gun. on this set, where would it be best for me to inject my RGB signal? Image and

Image


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2018 2:21 am 



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Posts: 282
The AN5160NK doesn't have RGB inputs. Appears to only have Green input for On Screen Display.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 5:40 am 



Joined: 27 May 2018
Posts: 18
Hi guys,
I tried the mod yesterday on my JVC TM-H1900G. All I got is an horizontal blue line, on both input (if I understood the mod correctly, I should see RGB on the monitor 2th channel). Any ideas? As soon as I can I will check again everything I did.

I used 2 parallel 150 ohm resistors in place of the 75s, because I was unable to find them anywhere. I hope that's ok.


Edit: I forgot to add that the line is shown even without a console connected. As soon as the CRT is ready, it pops up and I can't see anything else, not even the OSD.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 5:52 pm 



Joined: 27 May 2018
Posts: 18
Ok so I checked my connections, moved a couple things and connected more ground pins on the scart. Now I have an horizontal red line. It's really bright and it seems like it becomes brighter and brighter while it's on. Also, there is a little vertical movement that repeats, and there's a red and distorted flash of the image of the game.

On the female scart connector, I connected RGB pins and relative grounds, pin 20 sync, pin 4 audio ground and pin 17 sync ground.

Ideas? :(


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 10:49 pm 


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You don't have the yolk correctly plugged in and your firing your electrons in one concentrated area.
Or you fried something in the horizontal deflection circuit.

Expect epic screen burn in those areas.
I'd bin it.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2018 5:38 am 



Joined: 27 May 2018
Posts: 18
Syntax wrote:
You don't have the yolk correctly plugged in and your firing your electrons in one concentrated area.
Or you fried something in the horizontal deflection circuit.

Expect epic screen burn in those areas.
I'd bin it.


:(

Is there something I can do to at least confirm that is unsalvageable? If I remove the mod and the OSD menu looks ok, does that mean it's not burned?

Meanwhile, I redid the connection on Green line on the jungla and now the horizontal line is gone, except for a couple seconds when I switch from A to B input. The flashy image of the game is gone too.

I took a picture of the wiring https://ibb.co/jQ0sSo


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2018 7:52 am 


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Ged wrote:
Syntax wrote:
You don't have the yolk correctly plugged in and your firing your electrons in one concentrated area.
Or you fried something in the horizontal deflection circuit.

Expect epic screen burn in those areas.
I'd bin it.


:(

Is there something I can do to at least confirm that is unsalvageable? If I remove the mod and the OSD menu looks ok, does that mean it's not burned?

Meanwhile, I redid the connection on Green line on the jungla and now the horizontal line is gone, except for a couple seconds when I switch from A to B input. The flashy image of the game is gone too.

I took a picture of the wiring https://ibb.co/jQ0sSo


Just at a glance here it looks to me like you've got blobs connecting pins 31-33 there, and maybe some of the excess exposed conductors are touching surrounding pads/pins/components. I'd recommend trimming the uninsulated bits of wire down a little, so you've just got enough exposed to make the connection, and maybe invest in some separate flux because the connections are looking a little crusty.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2018 12:04 pm 



Joined: 27 May 2018
Posts: 18
BobWoggle wrote:
Ged wrote:
Syntax wrote:
You don't have the yolk correctly plugged in and your firing your electrons in one concentrated area.
Or you fried something in the horizontal deflection circuit.

Expect epic screen burn in those areas.
I'd bin it.


:(

Is there something I can do to at least confirm that is unsalvageable? If I remove the mod and the OSD menu looks ok, does that mean it's not burned?

Meanwhile, I redid the connection on Green line on the jungla and now the horizontal line is gone, except for a couple seconds when I switch from A to B input. The flashy image of the game is gone too.

I took a picture of the wiring https://ibb.co/jQ0sSo


Just at a glance here it looks to me like you've got blobs connecting pins 31-33 there, and maybe some of the excess exposed conductors are touching surrounding pads/pins/components. I'd recommend trimming the uninsulated bits of wire down a little, so you've just got enough exposed to make the connection, and maybe invest in some separate flux because the connections are looking a little crusty.


Okay, thank you. I'll definitely try that. I used flux but it was hard to do a clean job, I'm not used to solderng to pins this small. I did get better in the end though, so I'll try to clean it up.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2018 1:15 pm 



Joined: 27 May 2018
Posts: 18
Thanks for the tips BobWoggle! I removed the mod and started over. I repeated every connection and I think I got a much better result now, what do you think? https://postimg.cc/image/43bifeq3h/

The result is much much better! The image is nearly perfect now: https://postimg.cc/image/wsyec3c3x/

I just have to understand why everything is red! :D Any idea? I checked Green and Blue connection and they seem ok

I just want to double check: I used 2 150 ohm parallel resistors in place of each 75 ohm resistor. Is that ok?

Also, the OSD menu works fine. Shouldn't it be disabled by the mod?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 1:04 am 


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Ged wrote:
Thanks for the tips BobWoggle! I removed the mod and started over. I repeated every connection and I think I got a much better result now, what do you think? https://postimg.cc/image/43bifeq3h/

The result is much much better! The image is nearly perfect now: https://postimg.cc/image/wsyec3c3x/

I just have to understand why everything is red! :D Any idea? I checked Green and Blue connection and they seem ok

I just want to double check: I used 2 150 ohm parallel resistors in place of each 75 ohm resistor. Is that ok?

Also, the OSD menu works fine. Shouldn't it be disabled by the mod?


It looks like you're missing blue :)


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 1:43 am 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 282
Ged wrote:
Thanks for the tips BobWoggle! I removed the mod and started over. I repeated every connection and I think I got a much better result now, what do you think? https://postimg.cc/image/43bifeq3h/

The result is much much better! The image is nearly perfect now: https://postimg.cc/image/wsyec3c3x/

I just have to understand why everything is red! :D Any idea? I checked Green and Blue connection and they seem ok

I just want to double check: I used 2 150 ohm parallel resistors in place of each 75 ohm resistor. Is that ok?

Also, the OSD menu works fine. Shouldn't it be disabled by the mod?


1) Get some isopropyl alcohold and clean up the board
2) Check connectivity of your wiring with a multimeter. You appear to be only getting red
3) 2x 150 Ohm resistors in parallel results in 75 ohms. That will be fine
4) Check that your signal wires aren't grounding out. If you measure resistance from your RGB signal wires to ground it should be 75 ohms. If it's zero you are grounding out. You an find ground all over the board but the outside of an AV port or the tuner cage are two of my favoutites.
5) If you don't know whether the OSD should be disabled by the mod you don't understand the workings of your monitor well enough. Go back and study the schematics/datasheets some more and work that out
6) If the modding method does result in loss of OSD it's a shithouse obsolete OSD snip method. Study the OSD/Ext RGB Mux method we've talked about in this thread so you can have RGB and OSD. I'm happy to help with the circuit design if you link the schematics.
7) All RGB Modding requires some study. Don't just follow blindly someone else's instructions.Use them as a guide.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 1:07 pm 



Joined: 27 May 2018
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MarkOZLAD wrote:
Ged wrote:
Thanks for the tips BobWoggle! I removed the mod and started over. I repeated every connection and I think I got a much better result now, what do you think? https://postimg.cc/image/43bifeq3h/

The result is much much better! The image is nearly perfect now: https://postimg.cc/image/wsyec3c3x/

I just have to understand why everything is red! :D Any idea? I checked Green and Blue connection and they seem ok

I just want to double check: I used 2 150 ohm parallel resistors in place of each 75 ohm resistor. Is that ok?

Also, the OSD menu works fine. Shouldn't it be disabled by the mod?


1) Get some isopropyl alcohold and clean up the board
2) Check connectivity of your wiring with a multimeter. You appear to be only getting red
3) 2x 150 Ohm resistors in parallel results in 75 ohms. That will be fine
4) Check that your signal wires aren't grounding out. If you measure resistance from your RGB signal wires to ground it should be 75 ohms. If it's zero you are grounding out. You an find ground all over the board but the outside of an AV port or the tuner cage are two of my favoutites.
5) If you don't know whether the OSD should be disabled by the mod you don't understand the workings of your monitor well enough. Go back and study the schematics/datasheets some more and work that out
6) If the modding method does result in loss of OSD it's a shithouse obsolete OSD snip method. Study the OSD/Ext RGB Mux method we've talked about in this thread so you can have RGB and OSD. I'm happy to help with the circuit design if you link the schematics.
7) All RGB Modding requires some study. Don't just follow blindly someone else's instructions.Use them as a guide.


Thanks Mark! I'm trying to learn :mrgreen:

I cleaned the board, looks much prettier now :D

Image

Also, I checked the datasheet and I think this mod has nothing to do with the OSD:

Image

I'm getting 0.75V to YS2 from a nearby resistor.

For ground I'm using pin 26 on the jungla, it should be ok, right?

Image

For point 4: should I measure from pins 15, 11 and 7 on the female scart to a pin ground on the monitor board (like pin 26 on the jungla) ? Because i did so and it reads 108 ohm.

For continuity: if I measure from 15, 11 and 7 on the scart to the circuit before the cap it reads 33 ohm fine, if I measure after the cap I have a brief reading than it goes back to infinity.

Also, I'm a bit confused on how to wire the female scart properly. Currently I have: pin 15 to R line, pin 13 to ground line, pin 11 to G line, pin 9 to ground line, pin 7 to B line, pin 5 to ground line, pin 20 to sync line, pin 17 to ground line and pin 4 to ground line. Is that correct? 'Cause I opened my PAL snes cable and it doesn't have pin 13,9 and 7 connected

Thanks for your patience ;)


Edit: tried some other console. Playstation and Wii have some distortion: Image (much worse on Wii).


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 3:09 pm 


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Blue -7
Green - 11
Red - 15
Sync - 20

Ground - 5,9,13,17,18,21(link them all)


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 9:11 am 



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Posts: 18
Syntax wrote:
Blue -7
Green - 11
Red - 15
Sync - 20

Ground - 5,9,13,17,18,21(link them all)


Ok, thanks. I wired it like this but it's still red with some distortion (very light on PS2, heavy on Wii).

I also tried to connect sync to composite input instead of pin 15 of the jungla, but that got the picture dancing up and down (still red). Funny thing, if I use sync to the composite input, the monitor says "PAL" in the corner, but it doesn't with sync directly to the jungla.

I took a picture of the circuit:

Image


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 3:54 pm 



Joined: 27 May 2018
Posts: 18
It works!! Apparently it was some dirty track on the base. It was working right from the beginning :D

Sorry everybody for my noob desperate questions :)

I'll post a recap for future readers as soon as I can (though it's all already documented on the forum).

Right now I have to try with sync to composite input, because the Wii it's still distorted (N64 and SNES works fine)


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 9:57 pm 


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Been working on an RCA set for a local guy the last couple days, chassis CTC203AX, jungle LA7612N. Nice 27" curved tube. Had to fiddle with the OSD mux circuit so much I started pulling pads off my perfboard. At one point the diode for OSD blue went funny and made ext blue super weak, everything looked like piss.

It's all good now, though.

really good. Image Image
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2018 7:06 pm 


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I haven't kept up with this thread because I was getting overwhelmed, and then people started doing shit like tapping into the neck board directly, which this thread was explicitly created to help people avoid doing.

If I have some time I'll parse through where I left off and continue updating the OP.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2018 7:44 pm 



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Hi everyone. I'm a newbie to the wonderful world of RGB modding. I have a few questions.

1)What kind of wire is everyone using from the Scart plug to where you inject the RGB? It looks like cat5 to me but I know nothing.

2)With the mux method, what variables on the board should I keep an eye on?

Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2018 10:52 pm 


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28AWG wire will be fine. Cutting up Cat5 cable is not recommended.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2018 11:12 pm 


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hunkmuffin wrote:
Hi everyone. I'm a newbie to the wonderful world of RGB modding. I have a few questions.

1)What kind of wire is everyone using from the Scart plug to where you inject the RGB? It looks like cat5 to me but I know nothing.

2)With the mux method, what variables on the board should I keep an eye on?

Thanks

I've been using up my hoard of spare VGA cables. any 26-28AWG wire should do.

As for the mux, the post with the schematic back on page 49 really tells you all you need to know.
MarkOZLAD wrote:
So Syntax and I have been working on a way to perform the RGB mods on sets that usually require an OSD snip and a switch by instead muxing the OSD and external RGB.

Syntax was able to successfully perform this task this week on a Sanyo CP14SW1. Service manual here

I had previously had some success with an NEC TV but there were issues with the termination of RGB/OSD and then Tim posted about a TV chassis that muxed the OSD and RGB together. We went about studying Tim's post and the maths of the circuit he described. Obviously this stuff is easy for Tim but us layman (hacks?) had to take a bit of time to digest it.

Here is the schematic of the circuit we came up with to mux the External RGB and OSD RGB.

Schematic

There are two main concepts in play for the RGB.

Firstly the diodes on the OSD RGB lines isolate the External RGB lines from the OSD resistors. Normally the sets have a voltage divider on the OSD RGB lines which interfere with the 75Ohm termination of the external RGB lines if we just join them.

Secondly the inline resistors (the 5.6K on the OSD lines the 1K's on the External RGB lines) plus the 75 ohm Termination resistors of the external RGB lines act as the "R1" and "R2" of a voltage divider for the OSD lines. The OSD lines are 5V point to point. The voltage divider + the diode bring the OSD RGB voltages down to 0.7V point to point.

Ignoring any 75 ohm termination in the console the maths for working out the resultant OSD lines is:

(Source Voltage - Diode Voltage Drop) * (Second Inline Resistor + Terminating Resistor)/(First In line Resistor + Second Inline Resistor + Terminating Resistor)

(5.0V - 0.7V) * (1000 + 75) / (5600 + 1000 + 75) = 0.69V

If we take into account terminating resistors on the console side:

(5.0V - 0.7V) * (1000 + (75 *75)/(75+75) ) / (5600 + 1000 + (75 *75)/(75+75)) = 0.67V

Either way we get very close to the standard 0.7V p-p that we expect at the Jungle.

The results aren't perfect. Syntax still thinks the OSD is a bit washed out during RGB insertion but it is definitely usable.

Here is a video of the TV in action.

If you're wondering about the choice of the 1k inline resistor on the external RGB lines, we tested a few options but realised the maths favoured larger resistors (for power dissipation and for OSD voltage variation when attaching consoles that do or don't have 75 ohm termination). We have both worked on LG MC-84a chassis before and they have 1k inline resistors on the external RGB lines so Syntax gave it a try. In fact he tried values up to 10K and the ext RGB clamping seemed unaffected.

Oh, for the blanking circuit, Syntax came up with this quickly. We still haven't taken the time to understand the blanking mechanism Tim mentioned in his post. We understand that this is debatable (of course everything here is)
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 12:00 am 


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Be nice if someone put it on page 1 so we don't have to dig anymore..


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 8:18 am 


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Syntax wrote:
Be nice if someone put it on page 1 so we don't have to dig anymore..


mikejmoffitt wrote:
I haven't kept up with this thread because I was getting overwhelmed, and then people started doing shit like tapping into the neck board directly, which this thread was explicitly created to help people avoid doing.

If I have some time I'll parse through where I left off and continue updating the OP.


Four posts ago.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 5:10 pm 


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Got a couple free 20" sets the other day, Toshiba cf20e30 and JVC AV-20320.

Couldn't find service manuals or schematics for these sets nor datasheets (at least in english) for their jungle chips (toshiba ta1223n and ta1242n respectively).

Had to search all of the manuals of sets of this era, from either company, for the same jungle and a detailed enough schematic. Both take osd blanking and rgb through pins 14-17, should be a relatively easy mux.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 6:26 pm 



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I'm experimenting trying to get YPbPr images closer to RGB since I now own a Kramer FC-14. It's kind off topic but I just want to ask if anyone ever find someone explaning what each of the settings mean:

Spoiler: show
Fix 0 COUT COUTS(00 / 2-3) 3
Fix 1 YAPS YAPS(00 / 0-1) 1
Fix 2 NSDS NSDS(01 / 4-5) 0
Fix 3 MSS MSS(01 / 2-3) 0
Fix 4 KILS KILS (01 / 1-0) 1
Fix 5 DYC DYCOS ( 02 / 7-6) 2
Fix 6 EXAD EXADINS(02 / 5) 0
Fix 7 EXCS EXCSS(02 / 1- 0) 1
Fix 8 CPP CPP(03 / 6) 0
Fix 9 HDP HDP(03 / 3-5) 6
Fix 10 CDL CDL(03 / 0-2) 6
Fix 11 DYCO DYCOR(04 / 4-7) 2
Fix 12 DYGA DYGAIN(04 / 0-3) 10
Fix 13 DCCO DCCOR(05 / 4-7) 2
Fix 14 DCGA DCGAIN(05 / 0-3) 9
Fix 15 YNRL YNRLIM(06 / 4-5) 1
Fix 16 CNRL CNRLIM(06 / 0-1) 1
Fix 17 ID1O ID1ON(07 / 7) 0
Fix 18 ID1W ID1W0A1(07 / 6) 0
Fix 19 ID1N ID1W0A2(07 / 5) 0
Fix 20 WSC WSC(08 / 6-7) 1
Fix 21 VTRH VTRH(08 / 4-5) 1
Fix 22 VTRR VTRR(08 / 2-3) 1
Fix 23 LDSR LDSR(08 / 0-1) 2
Fix 24 WSS WSS ( 09 / 7 ) 0
Fix 25 ID1E ID1ECON ( 09/6) 1
Fix 26 TT TT ( 09 / 4 -5) 0
Fix 27 FELC FELCHK ( 09/3) 1
Fix 28 TH TH ( 09 / 1 -2) 0
Fix 29 VAPG VAPGAIN(0A / 5-7) 3
Fix 30 VAPI VAPINV(0A / 0-4) 25
Fix 31 YPFT YPFT(0B / 4-5) 3
Fix 32 YPFG YPFG(0B / 0-3) 9
Fix 33 V1PS V1PS(0C / 6-7) 3
Fix 34 VEGS VEGS(0C / 4-5) 2
Fix 35 CC3N CC3N(0C / 3) 0
Fix 36 C0HS C0HS(0C / 2) 0
Fix 37 SEL2 SELD2FH(0C / 0) 1
Fix 38 SEL1 SELD1FL(0D / 5) 1
Fix 39 YHCO YHCOR(10 / 6-7) 0
Fix 40 YHCG YHCGAIN(10 / 5) 1
Fix 41 OVST +OVST(10 / 3) 0
Fix 42 CSHD CSHDT(10 / 2) 0
Fix 43 KCTT KCTT(10 / 0-1) 0
Fix 44 SHT SHT(11 / 7-6 ) 0
Fix 45 VCT VCT(11/ 5) 0
Fix 46 CGAT CLKGAT ( 11 / 4) 0
Fix 47 CG2D CLK2D ( 11 / 3) 1
Fix 48 CGGT CLKGGT ( 11 / 2) 0
Fix 49 CGEB CLKGEB ( 11 / 1) 0
Fix 50 CGT CLKGT ( 11 / 0) 0
Fix 51 HPLL HPLLFS(12 / 7) 1
Fix 52 BPLL BPLLFS (12 / 6) 0
Fix 53 FSCF FSCFG(12 /5) 0
Fix 54 PLLF PLLFG(12 / 4) 1


I want to reduce the image processing to a minimum on the component side.
I'm also not enterily sure if the comb filter works over component or if it's composite, rf or s-video only.

Using Sony KV-FV305 here which is similar to KV-FV310 in the US.
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http://capivaragamer.com.br


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 6:50 pm 



Joined: 16 Jun 2018
Posts: 4
Double post.


Last edited by meltyzaps on Mon Jun 18, 2018 3:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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