TV RGB mod thread

[sparker599]

I modded my KV-27FV300. I used the same wiring as my last mod on page 42 of this thread, except with 470 ohm resistors for the inline resistors instead of 330 ohm. The OSD still is a bit dim compared to the RGB image (especially against the Mario 3 HUD), and games looks bighter on RGB than on composite or s-video, so I think something higher, about 680-900 ohms, would be ideal for my wiring.









Album with a couple more pics: https://imgur.com/a/t17Cj
Album with full size pics, but some duplicates (will remove those tomorrow) https://imgur.com/gallery/3tVQJ

I am combining the VGA H and V syncs also using tim's dodgy diode circuit and feeding it through the component luma channel.

Is there any reason you can't just use a pair of 1k resistors like I did in my mod? I made an external adapter that I can use to combine H and V together into a single RCA jack.

[fandangos]

Very sad to report that Sony KV-2959T with cxa1465as is not moddable.
I know goxod modded a set with the same cxa but the brazilian version have the analogue rgb pins disabled. I even went into the service menu and altering the bits from 0 to 1 on the ID part would give me closed caption option but when you enter it, there's nothing.

Blanking works but all it shows is a black screen. If on rf the white noise screen becomes black. So blanking is working. Used pins 15,16,17,18 for the mod. The other RGB pins are digital so no use.

later I tried rgb directly into the neck board with Tim's board (scart to jamma) as it should amp the rgb signals.
The tv will not turn on with RGB wires hooked but if I turn it on and hook the wires to the board it will stop showing the OSD and the screen gets dark. Like some kind of protection.
This is the result:

upload pic

Lukilla or someone with experience on direct neck modding have any advice? should I cut the RGB wires from the tv board before soldering the rgb into the neck?
Also this set does not have G2 pot to rise brightness l, only focus on the flyback.

[boliva]

I am combining the VGA H and V syncs also using tim's dodgy diode circuit and feeding it through the component luma channel.

Is there any reason you can't just use a pair of 1k resistors like I did in my mod? I made an external adapter that I can use to combine H and V together into a single RCA jack.

It was just the first thing I tried and it worked, I also tried combining the signals with 1k resistors and the result was exactly the same.

[boliva]

Very sad to report that Sony KV-2959T with cxa1465as is not moddable.
I know goxod modded a set with the same cxa but the brazilian version have the analogue rgb pins disabled.

looks like we in latin america got the short end of the stick when it comes to moddable CRT sets

Lukilla or someone with experience on direct neck modding have any advice? should I cut the RGB wires from the tv board before soldering the rgb into the neck?

Yes, you need to cut off the wires coming from the board and place your own RGB and ground signals instead.

[MarkOZLAD]

I modded my KV-27FV300. I used the same wiring as my last mod on page 42 of this thread, except with 470 ohm resistors for the inline resistors instead of 330 ohm. The OSD still is a bit dim compared to the RGB image (especially against the Mario 3 HUD), and games looks bighter on RGB than on composite or s-video, so I think something higher, about 680-900 ohms, would be ideal for my wiring.


Album with a couple more pics: https://imgur.com/a/t17Cj
Album with full size pics, but some duplicates (will remove those tomorrow) https://imgur.com/gallery/3tVQJ

Excuse the crudeness of my edits but I think this would be better for the RGB circuits.

I am combining the VGA H and V syncs also using tim's dodgy diode circuit and feeding it through the component luma channel.

Is there any reason you can't just use a pair of 1k resistors like I did in my mod? I made an external adapter that I can use to combine H and V together into a single RCA jack.

If the 1k and twist method works, go with it. Plenty of other people use it.

[Syntax]

Bah it's not my quote.

Oi Mark did you just redraw our plans lol??

[MarkOZLAD]

Bah it's not my quote.

Oi Mark did you just redraw our plans lol??

I wondered about that....

Yeah, redrew....

[comp1demon]

Any Idea where to start for JVC AV27S33

I know it is a 600 line TV.

But can't seem to find too much info on it.

Would love to add RGB input to this.

[cyborc]

Any Idea where to start for JVC AV27S33

I know it is a 600 line TV.

But can't seem to find too much info on it.

Would love to add RGB input to this.

This tv uses a single micro/jungle chip so the OSD injection method will not work I'm afraid
My cousin has this TV. An RGB to component converter looks very nice on his TV so that's an option for you at least.

[MarkOZLAD]

Any Idea where to start for JVC AV27S33

I know it is a 600 line TV.

But can't seem to find too much info on it.

Would love to add RGB input to this.

Checked out the schematic.

I find it very interesting that the TM8812CSANG3PF2 Jungle chip has the 21 Pin Ys right next to the 22 Cb In, 23 Y in and 24 Cr in. If you look at the block diagram these four pins all go to a block which mentions RGB matrix and Int/Ext switch.

I have so far been unable to find a datasheet for the TM8812CSANG3PF2. If you could find one that would be great because I believe there is a chance that Pins 21 - 24 could be:

21 Ys - Fast Blanking
22 Cb IN/Blue in
23 Y IN/Green in
24 Cr IN/Red in

...and bringing pin 21 high might allow RGB insertion instead of YUV.

Without a datasheet or direct experiment it is impossible for me to say for sure though.

If I am right you would be able to send RGB through the Cr/Y/Cb ports of the TV and Sync through AV1 port, tune to AV1 and trigger blanking into pin 21.

Need that jungle chip datasheet!!!


EDIT:

I have found datasheets for similar chips. It seems the Pin 21 Ys is for Picture in Picture YCbCr, not for RGB... Essentially you can be on a different input/tuner and the picture in picture can be triggered to show YCbCr content on top.

Still yet to find the exact datasheet

[cyborc]

Mark,

That would be great if you get this figured out! I was pretty disappointed when I found out I couldn't mod my cousin's TV the "easy" way.

[MarkOZLAD]

Mark,

That would be great if you get this figured out! I was pretty disappointed when I found out I couldn't mod my cousin's TV the "easy" way.

I have edited my original reply. I was mistaken.

[boliva]

hey everyone. got myself another TV, it's a 25" Samsung, svc model CL25M5WKX/RCL. I haven't been able to locate the exact service manual but I found this one which I believe should be very close, if not the same, except for country specific model number variations. Any hints on where to start? Thank you in advance.

[lukilla]

hey everyone. got myself another TV, it's a 25" Samsung, svc model CL25M5WKX/RCL. I haven't been able to locate the exact service manual but I found this one which I believe should be very close, if not the same, except for country specific model number variations. Any hints on where to start? Thank you in advance.

It seems fandangos was modding a tv with the tda9592, dunno what happened in the end.

[MarkOZLAD]

hey everyone. got myself another TV, it's a 25" Samsung, svc model CL25M5WKX/RCL. I haven't been able to locate the exact service manual but I found this one which I believe should be very close, if not the same, except for country specific model number variations. Any hints on where to start? Thank you in advance.

I think there may be a chance to mod this TV by putting RGB through the Component ports, Sync through AV1 and then sending between 0.9V and 3.0V into pin 45 of the jungle.

I do have concerns about the Component Y input though, it appears to be going through a circuit that I don't know what it is doing. May need to bypass that circuit for your Green input.

[boliva]

Hi MarkOZLAD,

I think there may be a chance to mod this TV by putting RGB through the Component ports

RGB lines @ ~5V or 0.7?

Sync through AV1

csync right?

I do have concerns about the Component Y input though, it appears to be going through a circuit that I don't know what it is doing. May need to bypass that circuit for your Green input.

Would you care to elaborate a little bit? by bypassing the circuit you mean injecting the green component directly into one of the jungle pins?

[MarkOZLAD]

Hi MarkOZLAD,

RGB lines @ ~5V or 0.7?

0.7

csync right?

csync, composite video or luma

Would you care to elaborate a little bit? by bypassing the circuit you mean injecting the green component directly into one of the jungle pins?

...good question!

I was thinking you could intercept the Y line at Jumper J705 and run to a switch. Switch between the Y and 75-ohm terminated Green. If you used a double switch you could also hook up a 5V line there too.

If you are clever you maybe able to find a way snip the Y line after the 75 Ohm termination resistor R707 and send it to the switch so that you can use the factory Y port as your Green input.

[fandangos]

It seems fandangos was modding a tv with the tda9592, dunno what happened in the end.[/quote]

It was a philips 32 inches widescreen that I got at a tv repair shop. The owner said the tv was fine but I had my doubts.
I was able to add RGB to it but after half an hour of use it would start shaking the screen and the tv ended up switching off.

I had many problems with this set. The pins of the jungle broke, I had to use a dremel to solder on what left of it.
I ended up buying another jungle and replaced it.

later I removed some smd components (3 resistors) to be able to solder from osd IC and the jungle. It worked but after sometime it would start shaking the screen and it would switch off.
I don't know if the problem was there or was caused by the mod.

Also you need some kills to work on that small board.
I don't recommend this tv for rgb modding because it's difficult, unreliable and it's component input with my js technology component to rgb transcoder were identical. Philips sets have awesome component inputs compared to other sets. So I would recommend getting a transcoder because it's identical in PQ.

EDIT: sorry for the quick reply I'm texting from my phone while waiting for the dentist.
Also the tv went to the trash.

EDIT: Ok, now I'm back home and I've read that Boliva is trying to mod a samsung tv and not a philips one like mine.
I have no experience with Samsung sets, as far as I read online their tubes are not the best and not worth putting the effort into modding.

I remember I had some problems using current drop resistors for some reason with the TDA and I can't remember what worked in the end.
I remember I used 0.1uF ceramic caps (I use polyester for my mods now). Here are the only pictures I still have from the mod:










As you can see I used a solder bolder and some enamel wires to solder. The reason is to avoid putting some pressure and stress over such fine traces.
Hope this helps you.

Also those photos were taken before 75 ohm terminator resistor were added, at the time I was testing the results without it.

[lukilla]

Holy cow, I don´t think my old solder iron could go over there As for samsung, if it still got a punchy sharp picture for cheap/free why not?, back in the day in arcades you could find much worse

Btw I have a philips flat screen that has two circuits in the manual for the component inputs, one for yuv and the other for rgb "itv". I wonder what´s an itv?.

[fandangos]

Btw I have a philips flat screen that has two circuits in the manual for the component inputs, one for yuv and the other for rgb "itv". I wonder what´s an itv?.

Maybe interactive TV?

Ok, remember that KV-2959T that I was trying to mod for RGB and the analog pins were disabled?
Well it's possible to enable those.

This tv came with a few problems:
1. Tons of dirty inside that I could barely see the boards.
2. Wavy screen.
3. The input 2 (video 2) wasn't showing up.

If you guys followed my last posts I was trying to do a direct neckboard modding since the TV wouldn't enable the analogue RGB pins.
Using Tim boards I tried my best to work with G2 on the neck (this model have it on the neckboard instead in the flyback), tweaking the contrast knob and the brightness.
No deal, the image was always too dark and the tv wouldn't power on without the RGB amp pins connecting to the neck.
I was able to power on the TV with 2.2K resistors but either way terrible results.

So I figured out how to enable the pins in this set. You need to set everything on the ID side of the service menu to 1. Each bit enables something, like close caption.
The trick is do this and reset the service menu with 8 + enter.
This will enable the pins and leave the ID side intact.

So after getting RGB I was getting some wavy image on the left and right side of the screen.
Tried resoldering the flyback and everything else, without success.
Swapped all electrolytic on the deflection side and it's almost entirely gone.

After assembling everything I just grounded pins 21 (main shield) and did a jumper to pin 2 (audio ground).
Well, I guess I should have bridged every single gnd pin on the scart end. I'm getting buzzing audio like poorly shielded cables.

Besides that I learned that different GND points make a difference.
Also long gnd cable near the flyback makes the image much brighter. If you just put the flyback cable near the gnd cable you get a very strong white ringing effect.

Next weekend I'll open up this TV again to fix the grounding and consequently buzzing sound, at least I hope.
I enjoy this set for personal reasons, this were the first tv I saw a PS1 hooked and those black plastic tvs are way more nostalgic for me.
Also this tv has almost perfect convergence and has a curvature similar to a PVM, which I enjoy.

Well finally, here are some pictures:
url=https://ibb.co/hyry87][/url]




PS: Menu uses digital RGB pins, so RGB plus OSD Menu is fine.

[Syntax]

Very nice work!
I will have to pick your brain re ID bits as there are a few Sony here that may be the same.

One shoupd always keep wires away from the power board and especially the flyback.

[lukilla]

Yeah, there even is a trick to get power off the flyback by winding wire at some area, and never use hot ground unless you want to fry your console/video card

[djcalle]

Hi Guys, hoping you can have a look at this and confirm or debunk my suspicion. I have a CRT equiped with a NXP OM8371PS, which looks like a clone of a philips chip, which seems identical to a TDA935X.

Datasheet: http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datashe ... 094_DS.pdf

Looking at the datasheet, it seems to be an interesting chip:

-Built in Teletext
-Built in OSD
-RGB/YUV ext inputs.

The main issue i see is that there's no blanking pin and I suspect blanking is activated digitally by some kind of data bus.

What do you guys think? Any way to hack this puppy?

Cheers.

[Syntax]

Pin 45

[djcalle]

Pin 45

Cheers mate, duh now that you point it out

I'll wire a pot to VCC and see if it blanks.

[Syntax]

I kinda hate it when a tda has component and RGB on the same pins.

It's supposed to change modes depending on voltage but sometimes the flag is locked off in the jungle.

Best of luck.

[fandangos]

I kinda hate it when a tda has component and RGB on the same pins.

It's supposed to change modes depending on voltage but sometimes the flag is locked off in the jungle.

Best of luck.

If it's actually a close of the TDA as he said, it will go from component to composite.
Every tv I tried this resulted in composite.

By the way, in the tvs you had success with voltage into YPbPr blanking pin changing to RGB, did you just wired sync with Green?
I remember when I was trying I was using a Y cable with a breakout box sending green and sync the same time for the same pin.

[MarkOZLAD]

I kinda hate it when a tda has component and RGB on the same pins.

It's supposed to change modes depending on voltage but sometimes the flag is locked off in the jungle.

Best of luck.

If it's actually a close of the TDA as he said, it will go from component to composite.
Every tv I tried this resulted in composite.

By the way, in the tvs you had success with voltage into YPbPr blanking pin changing to RGB, did you just wired sync with Green?
I remember when I was trying I was using a Y cable with a breakout box sending green and sync the same time for the same pin.

I've successfully done this with a TV running a VCT4942 Jungle and sync went through AV1 composite port, RGB through CrYCb ports respectively.

[djcalle]

It's supposed to change modes depending on voltage but sometimes the flag is locked off in the jungle.
Best of luck.

Cheers! Found this on page 89:
Switching between RGB and YUV can be realised via the YUV-bit in subaddress 2BH.

On page 111, Fast blanking voltages are specified but there's no mention of YUV.
I have little hope given how much seems to be controlled digitally on this chip (which I don't understand how).
Regardless, I'll test it out and report back.

[MarkOZLAD]

It's supposed to change modes depending on voltage but sometimes the flag is locked off in the jungle.
Best of luck.

Cheers! Found this on page 89:
Switching between RGB and YUV can be realised via the YUV-bit in subaddress 2BH.

On page 111, Fast blanking voltages are specified but there's no mention of YUV.
I have little hope given how much seems to be controlled digitally on this chip (which I don't understand how).
Regardless, I'll test it out and report back.

I'm currently preparing to test the TV Bus Manipulator that etim developed. I will be attempting to change a register in the jungle via I2C. This may be the sort of thing you may have to do to achieve this if the switch is disabled.

However...if the chip is all in one this may not be possible.