TV RGB mod thread

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MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

mgerety wrote:New PSU solved the problem.
Fantastic! Any chance you can follow up in the other thread? Would love to see some more shots.
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kynrek
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by kynrek »

Thanks Markozlad for your help so far with the JVC Schematic. I am still planning to mod my JVC but I want to try my smaller 13” ninja turtles tv first. I saw the spongebob tv mod and the board is very similar to my Ninjar Turtles TV but there are some differences. I think I found the resistors for RGB lines coming from the OSD to ground but can’t find the blanking line indicated in the OSD ICs datasheet. Can someone take a look and help me figure out which pin it is? Pin 33 is labeled OUT and it is right next to the RGB pins for the OSD but I was expecting It to be labeled BLK. I took screenshots from the datasheet and put them below:

Image

Image

Here is a link to the datasheet:
https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet ... asheet.pdf
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

I'd expect it to be 33.
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kynrek
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by kynrek »

MarkOZLAD wrote:I'd expect it to be 33.
Thanks again, you rock. Thanks for being so willing to help!
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parodius
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by parodius »

Anyone got some experience modding Sony BX1S chassis ?
Those are used in recent 21" flat screen trinitrons that I see for sale locally.
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MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

parodius wrote:Anyone got some experience modding Sony BX1S chassis ?
Those are used in recent 21" flat screen trinitrons that I see for sale locally.
In my experience the BX1S cannot be modded by jungle RGB injection. The models I have encountered have disabled RGB inputs.
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parodius
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by parodius »

Oh, crap. :|
Thanks.
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MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

They can be YUV and S-Video modded if they don’t come with from factory.
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parodius
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by parodius »

Most of the 21" TVs around here don't come with YUV. I guess I could try that...
Is it easy, like just a matter of soldering in the adequate connectors ?
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MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

parodius wrote:Most of the 21" TVs around here don't come with YUV. I guess I could try that...
Is it easy, like just a matter of soldering in the adequate connectors ?
In general it's a matter of turning on the feature in the service menu and then filling in the missing components on the board to match the schematics of TV's that have same chassis but do have the YUV/S-Video.
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kynrek
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by kynrek »

Markozlad (or whoever else can help:)),

I am a little suck with my Ninja Turtles TV RGB Mod. I tried to follow the guide here https://tinkerplunk.com/spongebob-tv-rgb-mod/ but My tv's board is different. I'm not sure what I am doing wrong

When I turn the TV on all I get is a black screen (I think because I am setting blanking to +5 volts), When I turn on my N64 and hit the MENU button on the TV I get a few pixels that seem to scroll up the screen only where the menu should be:

Image


I was trying to follow this:

Image

I can't find a Schematic for the TV Model# P3815NT (Can't identify the brand either) it says Cosmo Communications Corp on it though.

Here is how I soldered to the TV's Board:

Image

Here is the Input circuit board I made, it is wired to a SCART connector and the resistors are here:

Image

It is not pictured here but I wired the audio to the tv's rear audio input, and also wired the composite video signal from SCART pin 20 to the rear Composite Input on the TV board to try to pass the SYNC signal. I ran all the ground wires (Scart 17,18,21) to the composite video jack's ground terminal.
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

I'll try and analyse when I get the time. I straight away noticed you have 5V line running to blanking and scart pin 16. Should only need one of them.
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kynrek
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by kynrek »

MarkOZLAD wrote:I'll try and analyse when I get the time. I straight away noticed you have 5V line running to blanking and scart pin 16. Should only need one of them.

Ok thanks I tried it without the +5 at first but it didn’t work. I also tried the +5 without blanking. Thanks for the help :)
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

kynrek wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote:I'll try and analyse when I get the time. I straight away noticed you have 5V line running to blanking and scart pin 16. Should only need one of them.

Ok thanks I tried it without the +5 at first but it didn’t work. I also tried the +5 without blanking. Thanks for the help :)
Well that's left me confused...

If you wanted to do blanking with pin 16 you should've removed the factory grounding resistor (R132 I think) from the chassis and put it on inline on the wire coming from pin 16, after the 75R termination.

Pin 16 -> \/ 75R to ground -> Factory grounding resistor R132 -> Blanking circuit (hole left by R132 that leads to jungle)
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"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
SirDiabeetus
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by SirDiabeetus »

EIDT: Sorry for the double post. The post I actually wanted is below a few posts.
Last edited by SirDiabeetus on Tue Dec 11, 2018 6:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.
kynrek
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by kynrek »

MarkOZLAD wrote:
kynrek wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote:I'll try and analyse when I get the time. I straight away noticed you have 5V line running to blanking and scart pin 16. Should only need one of them.

Ok thanks I tried it without the +5 at first but it didn’t work. I also tried the +5 without blanking. Thanks for the help :)
Well that's left me confused...

If you wanted to do blanking with pin 16 you should've removed the factory grounding resistor (R132 I think) from the chassis and put it on inline on the wire coming from pin 16, after the 75R termination.

Pin 16 -> \/ 75R to ground -> Factory grounding resistor R132 -> Blanking circuit (hole left by R132 that leads to jungle)
Ah! Cool I will remove R132 and put SCART pin 16 to the non grounded pin closest to the jungle chip. I want to make sure I understand though, does this blanking pin just toggle wether or not the jingle chip should use the RGB signal to display, being either on or off?
kynrek
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by kynrek »

MarkOZLAD wrote:
kynrek wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote:I'll try and analyse when I get the time. I straight away noticed you have 5V line running to blanking and scart pin 16. Should only need one of them.

Ok thanks I tried it without the +5 at first but it didn’t work. I also tried the +5 without blanking. Thanks for the help :)
Well that's left me confused...

If you wanted to do blanking with pin 16 you should've removed the factory grounding resistor (R132 I think) from the chassis and put it on inline on the wire coming from pin 16, after the 75R termination.

Pin 16 -> \/ 75R to ground -> Factory grounding resistor R132 -> Blanking circuit (hole left by R132 that leads to jungle)
I removed R132 and tried using only pin 16 to non grounded pin of R132. After that, I also tried (what I believe is) +5V from the board to the non grounded pin of R132. I am having the same issue though, the screen is totally black unless I hit the menu button on the front of the TV. It does seem that the colors coming through where the menu should be are brighter now though than before I removed R132. Any other ideas?
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Diopter Doctor
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Diopter Doctor »

kynrek wrote:
Ah! Cool I will remove R132 and put SCART pin 16 to the non grounded pin closest to the jungle chip. I want to make sure I understand though, does this blanking pin just toggle wether or not the jingle chip should use the RGB signal to display, being either on or off?

Interesting Mod layout.

First, blanking is just a certain voltage (Chip specific) that tells the chip to display the incoming RGB signals of the respected pins its meant for. So yes, it turns RGB on or off.
With the TV on, use a multimeter to check what voltage is going from the to the grey wire you have hooked up to the blanking line. Red lead touching the grey wire, black lead connected to ground anywhere on the chassis. This indicates the voltage. You should disconnect one of the grey wires though, choose either 5V from the chassis or from your console. I'd recommended using it from your console so you can use your original inputs unless your going to add a switch or only use your TV for RGB now.

Second, I would add flux to all of your solder joints and reheat them for a quick moment until they are shiny. Some of those joints could be cold and thus nonconductive.

I didn't read every detail of the conversation so far and your perf board is kinda hard to analyze, but these are two things I noticed right off the bat.
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by kynrek »

Diopter Doctor wrote:
kynrek wrote:
Ah! Cool I will remove R132 and put SCART pin 16 to the non grounded pin closest to the jungle chip. I want to make sure I understand though, does this blanking pin just toggle wether or not the jingle chip should use the RGB signal to display, being either on or off?

Interesting Mod layout.

First, blanking is just a certain voltage (Chip specific) that tells the chip to display the incoming RGB signals of the respected pins its meant for. So yes, it turns RGB on or off.
With the TV on, use a multimeter to check what voltage is going from the to the grey wire you have hooked up to the blanking line. Red lead touching the grey wire, black lead connected to ground anywhere on the chassis. This indicates the voltage. You should disconnect one of the grey wires though, choose either 5V from the chassis or from your console. I'd recommended using it from your console so you can use your original inputs unless your going to add a switch or only use your TV for RGB now.

Second, I would add flux to all of your solder joints and reheat them for a quick moment until they are shiny. Some of those joints could be cold and thus nonconductive.

I didn't follow all of the conversation so far but these are two things I noticed right off the bat.

Thanks for the advice! I have a flux pen so I'll put some on each join and melt it for a second.

Let me make sure I am understanding you:
The SCART cables are supposed to get +5v from the console and put it to pin 16. I shouldn't need a constant +5v from the TV, that way I can only force it to display RGB when a console is connected (and thus sending +5V)

Thanks,
kynrek
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by kynrek »

Diopter Doctor wrote:
kynrek wrote:
Ah! Cool I will remove R132 and put SCART pin 16 to the non grounded pin closest to the jungle chip. I want to make sure I understand though, does this blanking pin just toggle wether or not the jingle chip should use the RGB signal to display, being either on or off?

Interesting Mod layout.

First, blanking is just a certain voltage (Chip specific) that tells the chip to display the incoming RGB signals of the respected pins its meant for. So yes, it turns RGB on or off.
With the TV on, use a multimeter to check what voltage is going from the to the grey wire you have hooked up to the blanking line. Red lead touching the grey wire, black lead connected to ground anywhere on the chassis. This indicates the voltage. You should disconnect one of the grey wires though, choose either 5V from the chassis or from your console. I'd recommended using it from your console so you can use your original inputs unless your going to add a switch or only use your TV for RGB now.

Second, I would add flux to all of your solder joints and reheat them for a quick moment until they are shiny. Some of those joints could be cold and thus nonconductive.

I didn't read every detail of the conversation so far and your perf board is kinda hard to analyze, but these are two things I noticed right off the bat.
Ok, so I used my flux pen and the solder looks very shiny right until it cools. I tried keeping it hot longer but I'm afraid of damaging components, even though I kept the solder shiny and melted for 4 seconds straight. I used a ton of flux fluid from the pen, not sure what else to do.

I checked the voltage from the point on the board it was 4.9, from pin 16 on my RGB modded N64 it was 3.7v. I put them on a switch, when I select the scart pin 16 one I get the default solid blue screen on the TV until I turn on the N64 then it goes solid black and I only get any color if I hit the menu button on the TV then I get some colors where the menu words should be. If I switch to the board point it does the same except I don't get the blue screen when the system is off (which makes sense). Why is the blanking voltage making the whole screen black except when the menu button is pushed? It seems that the menu button is sending power to another pin perhaps? Maybe the diode between the OSD and jungle chip?
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Syntax
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Syntax »

https://turtleflakes.com/images/turtlestvpcb.jpg

Your grey "5v to blanking" wire, whats it for?

It looks to me like you have hardwired blanking directly to 5v.

So you have scart pin 16, OSD blanking and 5v tied together, not really the best idea. Id remove it.
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by kynrek »

Syntax wrote:https://turtleflakes.com/images/turtlestvpcb.jpg

Your grey 5v blanking wire, whats it for?

It looks to me like you have hardwired blanking directly to 5v.

So you have scart pin 16, OSD blanking and 5v tied together, not really the best idea. Id remove it.
Correct, I didn't know what I was doing. I rewired pin 16 (which turned out to be 3.6V when the N64 was turned on) and +5v to a switch to check and see if one made things work, it turns out that it does not make a difference, I can still only see some color when I hit the menu button where the menu words are supposed to be.
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Syntax
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Syntax »

on any channel?

If the screen goes black the generally means blanking is working, but its odd your getting unsynced image in the menu blanking area.

Sure this is not a Digital OSD?
kynrek
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by kynrek »

Syntax wrote:on any channel?

If the screen goes black the generally means blanking is working, but its odd your getting unsynced image in the menu blanking area.

Sure this is not a Digital OSD?
Not sure, here is the info I could find on the RGB Pins for the OSD Chip:

Image

This is the jungle chip info:

Image
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Syntax
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Syntax »

remove R218, put a 75r in its place.

Remove the diode you installed, put a 180R in its place.

Wire scart pin 16 directly to the jungle side of the 180R(Not the OSD side!)
kynrek
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by kynrek »

Syntax wrote:remove R218, put a 75r in its place.

Remove the diode you installed, put a 180R in its place.

Wire scart pin 16 directly to the jungle side of the 180R(Not the OSD side!)
Sorry for the Confusion, the Schematic I posted with the jungle chip is not actually from my board, I just posted it as a reference to the pins on the IC so the R218 from the schematic does not exist on my board.

I did replace the diode with a 180ohm resistor and put pin 16 on the jungle chip side of it. I also replaced the resistor that was going to ground for the blanking line with a 75 ohm one:

Unfortunately I am still having the same problem. Black screen except when I hit the menu button some colors scroll upwards where the text should be.

Image
SirDiabeetus
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by SirDiabeetus »

Hello there! Long time lurker, but I'm finally planning to RGB mod my Apex AT2704s TV! I couldn't find the service manual for this TV, so I had to get my information based on a similar set with the same jungle IC.

TV Service Manual: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DWSit ... oRVKVmF2d-
Jungle IC: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OMgnA ... nu-nOYR_ko

I do have I few questions before I get started on this mod. My OSD RGB resistors are 1.8k ohm, so the EXT RGB resistors needed to replaced with 220 ohm and solder the 75 ohm resistors to ground, right? I'm debating if I should either use Luma (thanks to S-video) or Composite as my sync for the mod. I wanted to go with the former, but I see many people going with the latter instead, so I'm conflicted on which to choose. After that, I plan to getting 5V from the console, thus wiring it to the blanking pin of the Scart cable.
Spoiler
Image
djcalle
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by djcalle »

SirDiabeetus wrote:Hello there! Long time lurker, but I'm finally planning to RGB mod my Apex AT2704s TV! I couldn't find the service manual for this TV, so I had to get my information based on a similar set with the same jungle IC.

TV Service Manual: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DWSit ... oRVKVmF2d-
Jungle IC: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OMgnA ... nu-nOYR_ko

I do have I few questions before I get started on this mod. My OSD RGB resistors are 1.8k ohm, so the EXT RGB resistors needed to replaced with 220 ohm and solder the 75 ohm resistors to ground, right? I'm debating if I should either use Luma (thanks to S-video) or Composite as my sync for the mod. I wanted to go with the former, but I see many people going with the latter instead, so I'm conflicted on which to choose. After that, I plan to getting 5V from the console, thus wiring it to the blanking pin of the Scart cable.
Spoiler
Image
Hey mate, I'd recommend you first isolate OSD from the jungle temporarily and inject RGB and blanking directly on the jungle with 104 caps and 75R termination, if it blanks and looks right you can then look at applying the OSD Mux method using Syntax and MarkOZlad's calculator, if you get to that point and get stuck I'm sure they'll be able to help out.
You might want to put a 1K pot in between your Scart 5V and blanking in case the required blanking voltage is less than 5V.

Regarding Sync, it doesn't matter much in my experience, if using S-Video you'll have to short the connector detection switch, I think just use composite for now and see how you go.
Seems you are on the right path, just get into it and start testing.
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Diopter Doctor
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Diopter Doctor »

kynrek wrote:
Ok, so I used my flux pen and the solder looks very shiny right until it cools. I tried keeping it hot longer but I'm afraid of damaging components, even though I kept the solder shiny and melted for 4 seconds straight. I used a ton of flux fluid from the pen, not sure what else to do.

I checked the voltage from the point on the board it was 4.9, from pin 16 on my RGB modded N64 it was 3.7v. I put them on a switch, when I select the scart pin 16 one I get the default solid blue screen on the TV until I turn on the N64 then it goes solid black and I only get any color if I hit the menu button on the TV then I get some colors where the menu words should be. If I switch to the board point it does the same except I don't get the blue screen when the system is off (which makes sense). Why is the blanking voltage making the whole screen black except when the menu button is pushed? It seems that the menu button is sending power to another pin perhaps? Maybe the diode between the OSD and jungle chip?
So the trick to getting a good solder joint is to not have too much (it should look like a volcano vs a ball), add flux, heat enough until it melts then immediately remove your iron. The longer you hold your iron there while it's melted, the more flux you burn away.

So are you inputting c-sync or Luma into your RCA/s-video jack on the back panel?
kynrek
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by kynrek »

Diopter Doctor wrote:
kynrek wrote:
Ok, so I used my flux pen and the solder looks very shiny right until it cools. I tried keeping it hot longer but I'm afraid of damaging components, even though I kept the solder shiny and melted for 4 seconds straight. I used a ton of flux fluid from the pen, not sure what else to do.

I checked the voltage from the point on the board it was 4.9, from pin 16 on my RGB modded N64 it was 3.7v. I put them on a switch, when I select the scart pin 16 one I get the default solid blue screen on the TV until I turn on the N64 then it goes solid black and I only get any color if I hit the menu button on the TV then I get some colors where the menu words should be. If I switch to the board point it does the same except I don't get the blue screen when the system is off (which makes sense). Why is the blanking voltage making the whole screen black except when the menu button is pushed? It seems that the menu button is sending power to another pin perhaps? Maybe the diode between the OSD and jungle chip?
So the trick to getting a good solder joint is to not have too much (it should look like a volcano vs a ball), add flux, heat enough until it melts then immediately remove your iron. The longer you hold your iron there while it's melted, the more flux you burn away.

So are you inputting c-sync or Luma into your RCA/s-video jack on the back panel?
Thanks for the tips!. I put the composite video pin from the SCART connector to the rear composite in jack on the TV. The composite signal shows when I select the AV Input if the blanking pin does not have any voltage so I know it is hooked up to the correct scart pin although the color does seem a bit off.

Thanks,
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