TV RGB mod thread

[rx7turbo233]

Should I snipp the osd rgb wires before or after the capacitors on the positive or negative side of the capacitors and should I add the 75 k resistors or should I use the ones on my console with my rgb coming out of it , I shouldn't have to touch any of the sync stuff just the osd input wires , so as a recap of what I'm doing I'm going to be taking the original osd inputs out and installing my r,g,b inputs from my console into it those input of the osd , if I do it like that I should not have to mess with the osd blanking pin on pin 18 because then the TV micro controller can still mess with that part of it , I can install a switch to bypass the original osd rgb input to make it take my rgb signals , and then If i want to make it go back to the way the TV was before I'm modding it should have a switch for it to go back to like it not being bypasses to my rgb signals I'm giving it

[MarkOZLAD]

So pins 14,15,16 I'm snipping at the legs of the capacitors coming into the osd and I'm hooking my rgb wires from my game console their to the osd input of pin 14,15,16 then I'm I'm feeding power to the rgb vcc on pin 18 I should add somewhere around 1 volt up to 9 volts to get it to blank to rgb the circuit says it takes 9 volts on their what should I do about the black pin 17

Find capacitors that feed pins 14,15,16 of Jungle IC 201.

desolder the legs that are furthest from jungle, closest to OSD chip IC 2001.

Run wires from the the now empty capacitor leg holes to outside legs of switch.

find a resistor the OSD blanking line goes through. desolder a leg on the OSD side. Run a wire from empty hole to the outside leg of switch.

Run wires from legs of cap to inside leg of switch.

Run wire from leg of OSD blanking resistor to inside leg of switch.

Run wires from Scart RGB pins 7, 11 and 15 and 16 (for blanking) to other outside legs of switch. Put a 10K potentiometer on the blanking line.

Connect scart pin 21 to chassis ground. Connect pin 18 to chassis ground.

Terminate wires from scart RGB pins 7,11 and 15 to ground via 75 ohm resistors.

Connect scart pin 20 (Sync) and pin 17 (Sync ground) to the AV port.

Scart pin 6 is audio L, Scart pin 2 is audio R, scart pin 4 is audio ground. Connect to AV Audio port.


This should get you close. Syntax is a guru at doing this, get him to check.

[Syntax]

Only helping rx7turbo233 if he changes his profile pic to this guy. :p

[MarkOZLAD]

Only helping rx7turbo233 if he changes his profile pic to this this guy. :p

Yeah fair enough.

I'm only helping because his tv is a "Shart" brand.

[Syntax]

Only helping rx7turbo233 if he changes his profile pic to this this guy. :p

Yeah fair enough.

I'm only helping because his tv is a "Shart" brand.

That did make my night the other day. Kinda like my Panasonic Quntrix lol.

Thinking about playing in paint and making a drawing for fail safe osd hack for everyone.

[rx7turbo233]

I was looking for a pic I should use that one, I appreciate the help and explanation for the TV mod , I will post pics of all of it on. Few days

[MarkOZLAD]

I was looking for a pic I should use that one, I appreciate the help and explanation for the TV mod , I will post pics of all of it on. Few days

I made up a pretty bad one if that works

[rx7turbo233]

can you chime in syntax and tell me if his pictuure is correct and i need a 3 wire four way switch for the rgb osd hack and one for the blanking wire

[cruzlink2]

Did a Sony Trinitron 20FS12 for Retrorgb.

[MarkOZLAD]

can you chime in syntax and tell me if his pictuure is correct and i need a 3 wire four way switch for the rgb osd hack and one for the blanking wire

The picture shows a single 4PDT toggle switch.

[rx7turbo233]

i only could get a 3 pole one today

[MarkOZLAD]

i only could get a 3 pole one today

Oh well use two switches then. One for the RGB lines and another switch for blanking.

[Syntax]

Or don't cut the blanking and wire it to your scart plug/console 5v.
Shouldn't be a problem having blanking linked.

[Syntax]

This is the set that started it all for me a month or two ago. I've owned it for years but only ever played PS1 or PS2 shooters on it.
Always wanted to run RGB so I could plug in my Time Crisis 1 pcb and finally get my world record uploaded.

I had no idea what I was doing, but I was certain that a big company like sony would sell the same set around the world and just change the plugs.
After about 2 hours I found the teletext module had RGB written on its plug. This has to be it right?
Ripped it out and wired in my arcade pcb, and gave blk pin 5v as that's what teletext output on the multimeter when I pressed the button.
You canimagine how stoked I was when it Time Crisis came up on screen, even if it was off center and a bit washed out.

And thatswhat brought me here, needing to know why my picture was washed out and how to tune the off center RGB signal. Google took me straight to this thread.

Last night I finally revisited this TV, it had wires hanging out the back and never got properly finished, it still had 430ohm terminations and 10n caps, id been too busy.
Gave it proper terminations and caps and shielded cable everywhere. Now blacks and whites are so nice, will have to test the Time Crisis PCB next.

SONY - KP - XA43M31
Chassis - ??
Jungle IC - CXP86213
Hack Method - Teletext

Remove the teletext module and throw it.
Remove the side control board so you can work on it on a bench, find and remove the 430ohm and 10n caps on the teletext RGB lines and replace with 75ohm and 100n(104)
5v to blanking pin,
The plug has writing on it and wires are ordered RGB Blanking Ground

Its easy to remove the component jack so you can work on 90% of the mod on a bench.

Now feast your eyes on 43inch of RGB goodness!


Id like to thank @mikejmoffitt for starting this thread and everyone else that has ever contributed info or helped out others.
I still have a lot more to learn but I wouldn't of been able to get this far without you lot.
So thanks!

[MarkOZLAD]

Or don't cut the blanking and wire it to your scart plug/console 5v.
Shouldn't be a problem having blanking linked.

Yes, fair call that. Plugging in the console will create the blanking voltage.

Easy to get stuck in a mindset when you do things a certain way.

[rx7turbo233]

On my tv it has a amp for the red,green and blue output on the pwb b going to the tube of the TV , also I'm trying to fiquire out where to disconnect the rgb input to the osd 2001 I take them off that line so their not hooked to the osd 2001 any more so I'm bypassing the rgb output of the ic2001 to the jungle ic 201 so I'm putting my own rgb input at the jungle ic 201 and disconnecting the osd blanking line from the osd2001 and using the five volt out put from the console to send the blanking power signal, what should I do about the ground just ground it thru the chassis ground of the TV do I still have to install the 10 k pot on the blanking line if I do it that way , or can I just ask a switch just to sent it 5 volts to test it

[Syntax]

5v might be fine for now direct to blanking.
Connect the ground of the console scart plug to the Tv ground.
I use many grounds just to be sure of a good connection.
Usually have sync shielded cable, audio shielded, video shielded.
It's a bit overkill as the sync wire is the only one that really needs shielding.

You should not have to disconnect the blanking pins. Just wire to that line.

[rx7turbo233]

On the osd ic2001 their are no caps only resistors so I should

[rx7turbo233]

I should keep the resistor that goes to the jungle ic from the blanking output of the osd ic2001

[rx7turbo233]

I plan to use very good shielded microphone wire for the scary cable , I have been trying to find a multi out put connector to build my scary cable for a super nes, I'm going to test it with my Sega Genesis rgb output

[Syntax]

RGB line components and order.

Jungle IC
100n(104)capacitor
75ohm resistor tied to ground
Console

In that order.

I did a thing for people that like pictures.

[rx7turbo233]

I have a rgb kit from retro fixes with csync on it and 75 ohm atenuation on it already so don't need to do the 75 resistors and csync , but still going to install it in the kit and hook it up on a different pin

[Syntax]

I have a rgb kit from retro fixes with csync on it and 75 ohm atenuation on it already so don't need to do the 75 resistors and csync , but still going to install it in the kit and hook it up on a different pin

Console AND tv need 75 ohm terminations.

[rx7turbo233]

I did the termination on console and I have to also do it on the rgb lines from the scart connector I'm installing on the TV I can use any connector I want just have to terminate the 75 ohm resistors to ground on the rgb lines going to the jungle ic201 do use a cap or just he 75ohm termantion I have to do it to the osd input on the jungle ic201side

[MarkOZLAD]

Modded a set today and have a problem. The picture is too dark.

The TV has a generic Chinese chassis design with an LA76810A Jungle I/C. I have no service manual or schematic but I reverse engineered the chassis by inspection and found the set had external RGB inputs that share the OSD lines.

I inserted 75ohm terminated RGB, blanking worked fine, but the picture is wrong. Too dark. Black levels wrong or something.

I was able to get the colour close to right using the service menu but when I do the composite picture is way too bright.

I tested inserting the RGB without any termination and it was he same. Too dark.

Any thoughts?

[Syntax]

Modded a set today and have a problem. The picture is too dark.

The TV has a generic Chinese chassis design with an LA76810A Jungle I/C. I have no service manual or schematic but I reverse engineered the chassis by inspection and found the set had external RGB inputs that share the OSD lines.

I inserted 75ohm terminated RGB, blanking worked fine, but the picture is wrong. Too dark. Black levels wrong or something.

I was able to get the colour close to right using the service menu but when I do the composite picture is way too bright.

I tested inserting the RGB without any termination and it was he same. Too dark.

Any thoughts?

Wire blanking like I do, your probably inserting 5v and that is putting the blanking in a "Half-Tone" state.
Probs needs around 3v to be in normal state.

[MarkOZLAD]

Modded a set today and have a problem. The picture is too dark.

The TV has a generic Chinese chassis design with an LA76810A Jungle I/C. I have no service manual or schematic but I reverse engineered the chassis by inspection and found the set had external RGB inputs that share the OSD lines.

I inserted 75ohm terminated RGB, blanking worked fine, but the picture is wrong. Too dark. Black levels wrong or something.

I was able to get the colour close to right using the service menu but when I do the composite picture is way too bright.

I tested inserting the RGB without any termination and it was he same. Too dark.

Any thoughts?

Wire blanking like I do, your probably inserting 5v and that is putting the blanking in a "Half-Tone" state.
Probs needs around 3v to be in normal state.

That makes a lot of sense. It's like there's transparency

[MarkOZLAD]

Modded a set today and have a problem. The picture is too dark.

The TV has a generic Chinese chassis design with an LA76810A Jungle I/C. I have no service manual or schematic but I reverse engineered the chassis by inspection and found the set had external RGB inputs that share the OSD lines.

I inserted 75ohm terminated RGB, blanking worked fine, but the picture is wrong. Too dark. Black levels wrong or something.

I was able to get the colour close to right using the service menu but when I do the composite picture is way too bright.

I tested inserting the RGB without any termination and it was he same. Too dark.

Any thoughts?

Wire blanking like I do, your probably inserting 5v and that is putting the blanking in a "Half-Tone" state.
Probs needs around 3v to be in normal state.

Thanks so much Syntax. Working perfectly now.

[Syntax]

Modded a set today and have a problem. The picture is too dark.

The TV has a generic Chinese chassis design with an LA76810A Jungle I/C. I have no service manual or schematic but I reverse engineered the chassis by inspection and found the set had external RGB inputs that share the OSD lines.

I inserted 75ohm terminated RGB, blanking worked fine, but the picture is wrong. Too dark. Black levels wrong or something.

I was able to get the colour close to right using the service menu but when I do the composite picture is way too bright.

I tested inserting the RGB without any termination and it was he same. Too dark.

Any thoughts?

Wire blanking like I do, your probably inserting 5v and that is putting the blanking in a "Half-Tone" state.
Probs needs around 3v to be in normal state.

Thanks so much Syntax. Working perfectly now.

Ah sweet! We got lucky.
I can't remember if its LG or Panasonic that have the half tone blanking but it has happened to me before.

[MarkOZLAD]

Ah sweet! We got lucky.
I can't remember if its LG or Panasonic that have the half tone blanking but it has happened to me before.

I think it's definitely better but still too dark.

Going to build a test rig that will allow me to play with termination resistance and other parameters.