TV RGB mod thread

[Star1]

Very cool!

[Einzelherz]

When will you be selling them and for how much?

[Ryoandr]

When will you be selling them and for how much?

I'm not selling them (well, it, for now ). However I'll try to give as much info as I can on the process, it not that hard to do but it required a bit of planning and it's a bit time consuming.

I tryed to be as compact as possible just in case, but component placement could be relaxed a bit I guess.

Biggest confirmation are :
plain IDC DC3 50PL socket works just fine, no need for that special sauce Hirose PCN10EA 50P. Just needs to be perfectly centered on the board.
1N4148 diodes are fine.
C945 transistors are fine too, 2N3904 are probably too.

[Einzelherz]

I really like the idea of breadboarding a full card with the I/O ports on the back. How feasible is that as a shopping list and wiring diagram?

[Ryoandr]

I really like the idea of breadboarding a full card with the I/O ports on the back. How feasible is that as a shopping list and wiring diagram?

If you mean a PCB that filled the entire length of the slot, couldn't do it because I couldn't find perfboard bigger than 160x100mm. To do so would require custom etching / milling on a fully coated PCB and I don't have the tools. And for a board this size, Oshpark and the like would be prohibitly expensive even when trying to reduce the footprint, as you need the 130mm height and a minimum lengh as the guiding rails don't run all the way to the bottom of the slot.

Then there's the daughterboard solution, but there's not much space on the backplate, around 35x180mm.
So that's why I put a JST connector, I'm going to punch holes on a steel plate and just screw a scart socket and audio outs, if I have some space left I'll put component phono jacks, and maybe make another plate with a VGA socket. Note that it's a 5 pin JST while a full socket would require 6, it's because it's what I have ATM, I have 6 pins on the way and will replace with it.

[Einzelherz]

I swear I've seen micro atx-ish sized perf boards before. How much more complex would the circuit need to be to have the pass through added as well?

[lewolfeur]

this card will also work for component signal ?

[Xer Xian]

Congrats on this small/big feat of electronic engineering (depends on your background, for me it's big )

I am useless at modding (and I've recently acquired one of those damn input cards too), but I hope I'll be able to make one myself someday - I've actually bought a copy of Electronics for Dummies for this

[Ryoandr]

Passthrough would require autoswitching or self-terminating bnc sockets or a switch.
Such sockets are a bit of a pain to find, so the switch route would be easier.

[Star1]

this card will also work for component signal ?

It should, the component/rgb isn't separated in the card, that happens in the signal board.

[Ryoandr]

this card will also work for component signal ?

got to test it, but it should.

[ApolloBoy]

I just recently bought a Magnavox "Perfect View" TV, largely for aesthetics but I think it might be possible to mod it for RGB. I've also got the service manual for it, and I can post it here if anyone else would like to take a look.

[Ryoandr]

I swear I've seen micro atx-ish sized perf boards before. How much more complex would the circuit need to be to have the pass through added as well?

so I just scouted the interwebs, and you can find very large perfboards but with no copper or completely copper plated.
However I did found on a site named futurlec (scroll down a bit) there's a board that is 128x180mm, basically the perfect size for one, or can be split to make 2 if going with the wires-to-panel approach.
I also found on ebay (almost by accident) that there are boards 130x250mm, the perfect height (barring some minimal filing/sanding for adjustment) and that be used for up to 3 cards since the circuit I made takes about 72mm (but then there's the short guiding rails inside to remember when inserting / pulling card). Also a bit thinner but shouldn't make a real difference.
Searching with "prototype board" yields better results than "perfboard", on both ebay and aliexpress.

[Ryoandr]

So this is the end result.
Metal plate was a bit overkill because I initially thought about cutting and bending a plate and attach it to the PCB. In the end I just kept the front plate and attached a zip tie to the PCB so I can pull it out. Note that the phonos are outputs not inputs, from the scart socket.

Now, to put all this into a tutorial...

[Einzelherz]

I think it looks pretty darn good. It's giving me ideas about drawing up a RP housing that people could just print up. We'd need a standardized parts kit though.

[ApolloBoy]

Here's the service manual for that Magnavox Perfect View if anyone wants to take a gander: https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ciezcbjlbv8p ... n.pdf?dl=0

[lukilla]

Here's the service manual for that Magnavox Perfect View if anyone wants to take a gander: https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ciezcbjlbv8p ... n.pdf?dl=0

Not good I think, it just seems to be generating an R-B osd and mixing it at the output stage as color difference.

[Ikaruga11]

Any word of a service for this?

[ApolloBoy]

Any word of a service for this?

Shipping a CRT back and forth is pretty risky (and expensive), that's why nobody's offered a service.

[Ikaruga11]

Any word of a service for this?

Shipping a CRT back and forth is pretty risky (and expensive), that's why nobody's offered a service.

What about appointments? Modders who live nearby could offer to come over.

[adcurtin]

What about appointments? Modders who live nearby could offer to come over.

what kind of TV do you want modded?

[Ikaruga11]

What about appointments? Modders who live nearby could offer to come over.

what kind of TV do you want modded?

Nothing for me. Just curious.

A 27FV310 if I had one.

[KatKya]

Also posted this in fudoh's display thread, but:

Assuming one were to have a TM-H1900G and a TM-H1750CG, how difficult would it be to either:

1- Swap the tubes/chassis to get the equivalent of a 1950CG

OR

2- Swap the signal input boards (and option daughterboard) to get the same result
?

I've recently pick up both, and neither are in the best of shape all in all(1750 seems a bit worn and has 16:9 burn-in|1900 has a great tube, but the case took damage in shipping), and I'd like to frankenstein the two together if possible. Aside from needing to customize the back panel of the 1900G, I think just straight up swapping the chassis entirely may be the simpler choice due to some resistors missing on the power board that deal with the input board to my knowledge.

[adcurtin]

I've got a JVC AV-36260. I hooked up RGB where the PIP board outputs, but the picture is way too dark. The main chip is a TB1253AN, which I can't find the datasheet for. The pip chip is a SDA9389X-X, and the OSD chip is a MN1876478JL1.

I'm trying to figure out what level of the RGB signal should be. The service manual I have labels the pins as 2.2V, does that mean 2.2Vp-p, or something else?

What kind of amp should I use for this? http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/ ... ga2arc.htm will the first one here do the trick? Is there anything easier, or a PCB I can get (it can be blank)?

[lukilla]

I've got a JVC AV-36260. I hooked up RGB where the PIP board outputs, but the picture is way too dark. The main chip is a TB1253AN, which I can't find the datasheet for. The pip chip is a SDA9389X-X, and the OSD chip is a MN1876478JL1.

I'm trying to figure out what level of the RGB signal should be. The service manual I have labels the pins as 2.2V, does that mean 2.2Vp-p, or something else?

What kind of amp should I use for this? http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/ ... ga2arc.htm will the first one here do the trick? Is there anything easier, or a PCB I can get (it can be blank)?

It seems that on the ic301 (pip controller) you have 0.6v rgb inputs with .1 caps.

[MAVZERO]

Just got myself a TM-H150CG and was wondering if the RGB mod also enables component. If JVC already had all the circuitry for RGB and component in the monitor to begin with, then there really is no use for the RGB/Component card but for the inputs. Thanks Ryoandr for your awesome work btw

[samson7point1]

I'm considering trying to mod a KP61S65. SM here: http://intrepid-video.com/files/41T65.pdf

Can anyone suggest whether this TV is a good candidate and which circuit is the "jungle"?

[Pikkon]

Have all of my parts to mod my KV-32FS100 to output RGB.

Now do I need to take the blanking pin out of circuit,just want to make sure before I do any work on my crt.

[KnuckleheadFlow]

I'm considering trying to mod a KP61S65. SM here: http://intrepid-video.com/files/41T65.pdf

Can anyone suggest whether this TV is a good candidate and which circuit is the "jungle"?

It's IC301, YCU. YCU being chroma (Y) control unit I guess. I've found jungle ICs are usually labeled "chroma something" outside of older Sony documents that actually labeled it as jungle IC. I get the impression that's more of an industry nickname for those chips. A good rule of thumb for finding them is that they'll usually be the last IC before the CRT's neckboard and they'll have RGB output to it.

Have all of my parts to mod my KV-32FS100 to output RGB.

Now do I need to take the blanking pin out of circuit,just want to make sure before I do any work on my crt.

Check the schematics and look for a diode somewhere on the blanking line between the micro outputting the OSD and the jungle IC's input. If it has one, you're ok in leaving the blanking connected. If doesn't have one, you can either add a diode yourself before the DC blanking you'll be adding or you can switch it along with the RGB signals.

And to toot my own horn, if you haven't seen it yet, take a look at the circuit board I've had made that makes this whole mod simpler, cleaner and easier (maybe even a little cheaper): http://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=60330

[Ryoandr]

It's done (I think):
https://pastebin.com/EXqMBfcY