TV RGB mod thread

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DotMatrixMoe
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by DotMatrixMoe »

jd213 wrote:Recently got a Sony KV-24CW1 here in Japan, a nice 24" widescreen model from 1998 but only has composite and S-Video (no PS connector shaped RGB input like some Trinitrons had in Japan).

Couldn't find the service manual anywhere, is there a way to determine what chassis it has? Here's a pic if it helps (pardon the dust, I cleaned it after taking the pic):

Image
There's usually a chassis number on the model number sticker. I don't know if Sony does things differently regionally, but it is a possibilittly.
Peppy Hare
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MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

feltz wrote:Hey guys, for some reason I am unable to go into my service menu after RGB OSD mux.
The non-service menu seems to be working fine, but PowerOff->display->5->volUp->PowerOn just turns it on normally.
The mod won’t prevent you from getting to service menu. Keep trying.
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jd213
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by jd213 »

DotMatrixMoe wrote:
jd213 wrote:Recently got a Sony KV-24CW1 here in Japan, a nice 24" widescreen model from 1998 but only has composite and S-Video (no PS connector shaped RGB input like some Trinitrons had in Japan).

Couldn't find the service manual anywhere, is there a way to determine what chassis it has? Here's a pic if it helps (pardon the dust, I cleaned it after taking the pic):

Image
There's usually a chassis number on the model number sticker. I don't know if Sony does things differently regionally, but it is a possibilittly.
Hmm, don't see one unfortunately.

Is there someplace that lists the release years of Sony models? If so, I can at least try comparing models from similar time periods.
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Pikkon
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Pikkon »

Tried searching for a service manual for your set but came up empty,the closest I could find was a KV-28WF1B which uses a BE-3D chassis but there pal sets.

What jungle ic is your tv using?
jd213
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by jd213 »

Not sure, the chip seemed to be under the tube where I couldn't get a good look at it. Will have to open it up again and remove some cables so I can pull the A board out, but not sure when I'll get around to it.

Thanks for the link though, I'll need to spend some time studying various manuals and tutorials before I'll want to attempt to mod this set anyway. Have done plenty of other random projects but don't want to mess this set up when S-Video already looks pretty good on it.
KBZ
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by KBZ »

Finished an RGB Mod on a JV AV20120 following these instructions

Had some rough ghosting before cleaning around and under the anode cap. Still somewhat visible if I get up close.
Otherwise, looking good if a bit blurry still. Adjusted the G2 as best as I could. Interesting how faint the scanlines are compared to the D series.
Pics up here: https://imgur.com/gallery/jj9pPid
=/
KPackratt2k
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by KPackratt2k »

culvos wrote:
Spoiler
I gave the EEPROM reflash a shot. Your model, E13309, is a TX808(A) model. In the TX808 parts list, you can see that the microcontroller subcode for the A model as well as many others (K,J,H,D,C,B,E,A,R) is the same. It probably flips some settings around based on the contents of the EEPROM, but ultimately there is different microcontroller code on these models vs. the G (SecureView) models. On the SecureView cut sheet, they indicate that the clock is disabled, for one thing. I guess clocks are not allowed in prisons? So that whole menu entry for the clock, as well as timer stuff, is gone from the set. There's no telling whether RCA engineers decided to disable the external video input option here. My gut says they just patched out the clock code and called it a day, though.

So how are you switching input to composite on your modded E13309? I found a few videos of the E13320 online which is an H type set (the same type you flashed your EEPROM with) and people use the "Input" button on the remote; maybe it's also possible to go down from channel 1/2/3 to switch to the input. On this G model and on your unmodded E13309, pressing "Input" on the remote sends the TV to cycle through channels 3/4, as if you have an RF modulator attached. I also found the manual for your E13309 and it says it behaves that way (input on remote = change to channel 3/4). When you flashed your EEPROM did the remote behavior change?
tl;dr: My hunch here is that your set uses a microcontroller with code that is reused across many models of this TV, and the microcontroller on the SecureView series has different code. Even if the SecureView still has the same code path for enabling the external video input with some flag in the EEPROM, that flag may be in a different position. I'd like to figure that out, because if that is the case I could provide a modded EEPROM image for other SecureView users to flash and avoid needing to swap boards or microcontrollers to enable the input. Of course, an RGB-only mod can still be done without any of this. It's just nicer to have the input working too
After I've flashed the E13320 firmware on my set, I could access the AV input by using the channel up/down buttons on the set. I haven't tried pressing the "Input" button on a remote, but I would imagine that would work too.
culvos wrote:I think the person who modded his TX808 and flashed the EEPROM, who also mentioned having issues with "excessive brightness possibly due to a faulty flyback" likely has his display over driven and that's why it doesn't look dim to him.
It was having excessive brightness issues at times even before I modded it, so it was definitely a failing flyback transformer in my case. After replacing the flyback, the problem went away completely. Aside from that, the brightness is the same on both RGB and Composite/RF inputs after I figured out the inline resistors.
snappleman
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by snappleman »

Kingbuzzo wrote:Finished an RGB Mod on a JV AV20120 following these instructions

Had some rough ghosting before cleaning around and under the anode cap. Still somewhat visible if I get up close.
Otherwise, looking good if a bit blurry still. Adjusted the G2 as best as I could. Interesting how faint the scanlines are compared to the D series.
Pics up here: https://imgur.com/gallery/jj9pPid
I've modded the same set and the scanlines are sharper than on my trinitron. Maybe you just have a heavily used tube? That last image looks like you've got some convergence issues too?

The only issue with both my JV AV series sets I have is a bit of horizontal linearity distortion (like a very slight keystone) that seems to be an issue with the yokes they use. I've replaced one of the yokes with a WG equivalent and the image is amazingly straight.
KBZ
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by KBZ »

snappleman wrote:
Kingbuzzo wrote:Finished an RGB Mod on a JV AV20120 following these instructions

Had some rough ghosting before cleaning around and under the anode cap. Still somewhat visible if I get up close.
Otherwise, looking good if a bit blurry still. Adjusted the G2 as best as I could. Interesting how faint the scanlines are compared to the D series.
Pics up here: https://imgur.com/gallery/jj9pPid
I've modded the same set and the scanlines are sharper than on my trinitron. Maybe you just have a heavily used tube? That last image looks like you've got some convergence issues too?

The only issue with both my JV AV series sets I have is a bit of horizontal linearity distortion (like a very slight keystone) that seems to be an issue with the yokes they use. I've replaced one of the yokes with a WG equivalent and the image is amazingly straight.
It absolutely could be just heavily used. Yours wouldn't be a JVC D-series would it? If not, mind posting some photos of the scanlines you're getting for comparison? I'm testing with World Heroes Anthology on the PS2 which is supposed to be 240p. The other person's mod I followed didn't end up with visible scanlines either. I figured this was just how sets with low TVL look
=/
deezdrama
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by deezdrama »

First off I want to apologize since I have a seperate thread asking about this set... But I wanted to add the info here in the rgb mod thread incase someone in the future picks one of these sets up and wants to RGB mod it.

So I have several 13-14" pvm's/pro monitors with rgb inputs but never found a 19/20" pvm before prices exploded and really think 19/20" is the perfect size for my desk/mister fpga setup.

My nephew brings me a 19/20"philips magnavox PR1920C125 consumer set he got for free from work.
Ive always looked past these types of sets in favor of sonys,toshibas,panasonics.... But yesterday i finally decided to test this little set and was blown away... The geometry out of the box is pretty sweet compared to my larger sony and panasonic flat tubes... Also the color and vibrancy on this little set surprised me and it looked pretty damn good even with composite.
-Click "show full res image"
Image

This set has a samsung tube and TDA8846 / SAA5543ps micon-jungle chips. Its rf on back, one composite/mono audio on front.

Im pumped to finally rgb mod a consumer set after years of never getting around to it.

Ive fully recapped (120 caps...ouch) a sony 27fs120,pvm's, recapped dozens of consoles, done a bunch of nesRGB mods and have all the equipment. Replacing components...following guides is easy for me but I lack any electronics background so reading schematics etc is not my strong point so hopefully can wrap my head around this and figure it out.



So the micon and jungle do directly connect...
Image
and I know what all resistors and caps are on the lines.... but I do not know what any of it means other than there is a direct path LOL.
Sorry I dropped out of electronics class lol.

I have 2 easy access points to inject RGB signal, at jumpers or at resistor jumper points...
Image

I have no idea if resistors/caps need to be added or removed from the circuits if I cut and splice in at either of those points.


I hate asking for my hand to be held through this but Ive spent days and hours reading,watching vids and I get the gist of it but get lost when it comes to figuring out what value resistors,caps need to be added to the signals and it seems like all the videos Ive watched go about the mod completely different so hoping someone can give some guidance as to where to jack in my RGB signals and if I need to add or remove components to the lines.
Also,
Ive seen people using SPDT switches for blanking and seen people use 4PDT .... Im assuming 4PDT is the way to go that way I can see OSD when I need to?


Sorry for all the questions, I can replace components and recap consoles,pvm's, consumer sets in my sleep but never studied electronics theory so Im still trying to wrap my head around everything.
Thanks!
Last edited by deezdrama on Tue Jan 25, 2022 1:33 am, edited 1 time in total.
CapKing
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by CapKing »

Image Image Could i just run a +5v to blanking and my rgb into the in? its connected to ground in the tv schematic but the datasheet clearly shows rgb and bl in. Is this for pal scart connection?
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DotMatrixMoe
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by DotMatrixMoe »

CapKing wrote:Image Image Could i just run a +5v to blanking and my rgb into the in? its connected to ground in the tv schematic but the datasheet clearly shows rgb and bl in. Is this for pal scart connection?
Usually, pins are connected to ground if they're not in use by the set. I'd check if you have to enable it in the service menu or via IC data interception. You can also take a gamble and just solder onto those points to see if you'll get an image.
Peppy Hare
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Actually it's an aileron roll.
pedranic
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by pedranic »

Hello,

I have a Roadstar 1010XK with TDA8842 Jungle Chip. The inline resistor in OSD Chip are 100ohm, and excel calculator give me negative resistor because of that.
In this case, what are the values for resistor? The schematic of my tv without modding is:

Image

Thanks
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

pedranic wrote:Hello,

I have a Roadstar 1010XK with TDA8842 Jungle Chip. The inline resistor in OSD Chip are 100ohm, and excel calculator give me negative resistor because of that.
In this case, what are the values for resistor? The schematic of my tv without modding is:

Image

Thanks
Are the OSD inline resistors through hole or surface mount?

What is the chip number on the micro controller/OSD chip?
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OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
pedranic
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by pedranic »

MarkOZLAD wrote:
pedranic wrote:Hello,

I have a Roadstar 1010XK with TDA8842 Jungle Chip. The inline resistor in OSD Chip are 100ohm, and excel calculator give me negative resistor because of that.
In this case, what are the values for resistor? The schematic of my tv without modding is:

Image

Thanks
Are the OSD inline resistors through hole or surface mount?

What is the chip number on the micro controller/OSD chip?
The Jungle Chip is TDA8842 and the OSD Chip is TMP87CM38N
The resistors are through hole.

The values are for OSD CHIP side:

- R051, R052 & R053 = 100ohm
- R054 = 470ohm
- BL Capacitor = 330pF

On the other JUNGLE CHIP side:

- CT11, CT12, CT13 = 0.022MF
- BL Resistor = 1ohm

https://elektrotanya.com/roadstar_ctv-1 ... nload.html here you have the data sheet.

Image Image
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

pedranic wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote:
pedranic wrote:Hello,

I have a Roadstar 1010XK with TDA8842 Jungle Chip. The inline resistor in OSD Chip are 100ohm, and excel calculator give me negative resistor because of that.
In this case, what are the values for resistor? The schematic of my tv without modding is:

Image

Thanks
Are the OSD inline resistors through hole or surface mount?

What is the chip number on the micro controller/OSD chip?
The Jungle Chip is TDA8842 and the OSD Chip is TMP87CM38N
The resistors are through hole.

The values are for OSD CHIP side:

- R051, R052 & R053 = 100ohm
- R054 = 470ohm
- BL Capacitor = 330pF

On the other JUNGLE CHIP side:

- CT11, CT12, CT13 = 0.022MF
- BL Resistor = 1ohm

https://elektrotanya.com/roadstar_ctv-1 ... nload.html here you have the data sheet.

Image Image
Does the TV have the Teletext option QT01 installed?
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"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
pedranic
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by pedranic »

Does the TV have the Teletext option QT01 installed?
The TV has Teletext. Do you want to know if that chips is installed? I am sure but I can open the tv again for check it and take some pics if you want.
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

pedranic wrote:
Does the TV have the Teletext option QT01 installed?
The TV has Teletext. Do you want to know if that chips is installed? I am sure but I can open the tv again for check it and take some pics if you want.
Might be a good idea. Looks to me like the grounding resistors on OSD RGB will be RT10, RT11 and RT12.

Would be interested to see what reading you get if you measure resistance to ground from the jungle sided of diodes D001, D002 and D003. Looks to me like that should read 1000 ohms.

I'd say it is possible to RGB mod by using the twist method in RT10, RT11 and RT12. Lifting the grounded legs and twisting on some 75R into the ground holes.
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"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
freqhog
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by freqhog »

Hi All,

I'm looking into RGB mux mod my 2003 APEX AT2408S CHASSIS NO. CH-10C1(S). I know a little about soldering, but electronics theory is way beyond me. I have some familiarity working with CRT's. I successfully re-capped an arcade monitor last year using a cap kit. The service manual for this APEX TV is readily available online. Taking a look at the manual, I can see OSD chip and Jungle chip are there, with RGB and BL lines present, so it looks like I'm good to go. The link to the service manual can be found for free here: https://elektrotanya.com/apex_ch10c1_ch ... ad.html#dl

I specifically want to RGB mod the tv using the mux method, so I can see the original OSD input while the image is on screen, but I'm having a hard time understanding how the resistors come into play with the mod. I think I understand what I need to do, but I would really like someone to spot check my work before trying anything.

Could someone please take a look at the images from I've uploaded and let me know if I have everything correct? https://imgur.com/a/dhRsqar

If I understand correctly, I need to:

1) Remove SMD resistors at locations R072, R073, R074, R076

2) Add through-hole resistors 1K, 330K, 330K, 330K to RGB and BL respectively after the SCART head connector

3) Ground 75ohm through-hole resistors to each line [RGB & BL] (Do I tie this into SCART PIN-4, which will be grounded to the chassis?)

4) Wire PIN-20 to composite AV-1 and Ground on the board directly for sync

5) Wire PIN-2 and PIN-6 to L&R AV-1 & Ground on the board directly, for Right and Left audio channels respectively. What are the resistors in the OSD Mux Mod circuit audio circuit for? Do I need to worry about this?

Additional questions:

- Should I ground the SCART connector to the chassis more than once? I see ground is available on PIN-4, PIN-17, PIN-18 and PIN-21. If so, in which places should I make my ground connections?

- Do I rely on my AV source to provide the 5V needed to BL through SCART PIN-16, or do I need to grab that from the chassis with a switch?

- Where should I attach my RGB and BL wires to exactly? What's the ideal spot? I saw diodes that appear to go across the board between the OSD and Jungle. Would that be the best spot?

Thank you very much in advance for the assistance.
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

freqhog wrote:Hi All,

I'm looking into RGB mux mod my 2003 APEX AT2408S CHASSIS NO. CH-10C1(S). I know a little about soldering, but electronics theory is way beyond me. I have some familiarity working with CRT's. I successfully re-capped an arcade monitor last year using a cap kit. The service manual for this APEX TV is readily available online. Taking a look at the manual, I can see OSD chip and Jungle chip are there, with RGB and BL lines present, so it looks like I'm good to go. The link to the service manual can be found for free here: https://elektrotanya.com/apex_ch10c1_ch ... ad.html#dl

I specifically want to RGB mod the tv using the mux method, so I can see the original OSD input while the image is on screen, but I'm having a hard time understanding how the resistors come into play with the mod. I think I understand what I need to do, but I would really like someone to spot check my work before trying anything.

Could someone please take a look at the images from I've uploaded and let me know if I have everything correct? https://imgur.com/a/dhRsqar

If I understand correctly, I need to:

1) Remove SMD resistors at locations R072, R073, R074, R076

2) Add through-hole resistors 1K, 330K, 330K, 330K to RGB and BL respectively after the SCART head connector

3) Ground 75ohm through-hole resistors to each line [RGB & BL] (Do I tie this into SCART PIN-4, which will be grounded to the chassis?)

4) Wire PIN-20 to composite AV-1 and Ground on the board directly for sync

5) Wire PIN-2 and PIN-6 to L&R AV-1 & Ground on the board directly, for Right and Left audio channels respectively. What are the resistors in the OSD Mux Mod circuit audio circuit for? Do I need to worry about this?

Additional questions:

- Should I ground the SCART connector to the chassis more than once? I see ground is available on PIN-4, PIN-17, PIN-18 and PIN-21. If so, in which places should I make my ground connections?

- Do I rely on my AV source to provide the 5V needed to BL through SCART PIN-16, or do I need to grab that from the chassis with a switch?

- Where should I attach my RGB and BL wires to exactly? What's the ideal spot? I saw diodes that appear to go across the board between the OSD and Jungle. Would that be the best spot?

Thank you very much in advance for the assistance.
Looks like you're pretty much on the right path.

I don't tend to use the scart pin 16 for blanking voltage. It is possible but a switch just provides certainty. I'd look maybe at using the 8 Bit Guy's blanking method as documented in the mod thread I did for him.

Having said that, your design is likely right for using pin 16 if you want to give that a go.
freqhog wrote:2) Add through-hole resistors 1K, 330K, 330K, 330K to RGB and BL respectively after the SCART head connector
I assume you mean 330R instead of 330K

The mux calculator spreadsheet suggests 220R.

freqhog wrote:- Should I ground the SCART connector to the chassis more than once? I see ground is available on PIN-4, PIN-17, PIN-18 and PIN-21. If so, in which places should I make my ground connections?
Best to ground them all.

freqhog wrote:What are the resistors in the OSD Mux Mod circuit audio circuit for? Do I need to worry about this?
When mixing left and right audio into mono most people recommend the resistors to attenuate the signal. I would add them if you are mixing LR to mono.
freqhog wrote:Where should I attach my RGB and BL wires to exactly? What's the ideal spot? I saw diodes that appear to go across the board between the OSD and Jungle. Would that be the best spot
Wherever on the circuit gives you the best chance of a solid and easy connection.
___________________________________________________
MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
freqhog
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by freqhog »

MarkOZLAD wrote: Looks like you're pretty much on the right path.

I don't tend to use the scart pin 16 for blanking voltage. It is possible but a switch just provides certainty. I'd look maybe at using the 8 Bit Guy's blanking method as documented in the mod thread I did for him.

Having said that, your design is likely right for using pin 16 if you want to give that a go.
freqhog wrote:2) Add through-hole resistors 1K, 330K, 330K, 330K to RGB and BL respectively after the SCART head connector
I assume you mean 330R instead of 330K

The mux calculator spreadsheet suggests 220R.

freqhog wrote:- Should I ground the SCART connector to the chassis more than once? I see ground is available on PIN-4, PIN-17, PIN-18 and PIN-21. If so, in which places should I make my ground connections?
Best to ground them all.

freqhog wrote:What are the resistors in the OSD Mux Mod circuit audio circuit for? Do I need to worry about this?
When mixing left and right audio into mono most people recommend the resistors to attenuate the signal. I would add them if you are mixing LR to mono.
freqhog wrote:Where should I attach my RGB and BL wires to exactly? What's the ideal spot? I saw diodes that appear to go across the board between the OSD and Jungle. Would that be the best spot
Wherever on the circuit gives you the best chance of a solid and easy connection.
Thanks for the help. Yes sorry, I meant 1K and 330R. I thought I should use 330 over 220 as I saw the diodes at locations VD031,VD032,VD033,VD034? Or is this wrong?
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

freqhog wrote:Thanks for the help. Yes sorry, I meant 1K and 330R. I thought I should use 330 over 220 as I saw the diodes at locations VD031,VD032,VD033,VD034? Or is this wrong?
Ah I see. No those diodes aren't inline like you can see in my diagram. They appear to have something to do with the micro controller outputting 16 colour RGBI instead of 8 colour RGB.
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MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
VHS_Jess
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Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2022 9:33 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by VHS_Jess »

I picked up four Sony Trinitron KV-13M20 TV's recently. I want to have a go at modding them via osd mux. I've already got the board out of one and am trying to identify all the locations of things and getting parts ordered, but I'm having trouble digesting the info in this thread. Is there like a good place to go for info or should I just keep trying to work through the pages of thread here?
superfzzbigmuff
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by superfzzbigmuff »

Hi everyone, I recently came into possession of a Sony KV-35s66.

I have managed to find the service manual of this TV. I disassembled the board and have already located the Blanking and RGB inputs on the Jungle IC (CXA2095S). I have already desoldered the necessary pins and attached wires to the necessary pins.

The problem I've run into is that I'm having trouble figuring out what to do next. Here is a list of the things that are confusing me:

I have seen so many different variations on how to wire up the scart input that I'm worried I will find myself wiring it up wrong and damaging my set.

I am having trouble understanding where I should connect my audio out wires on the board. I have two inputs, one composite and one S-video. I can not figure out which points on the board would be the correct ones to connect to.

Finally, I am unsure of where on my board I should be pulling 5v from.

Any help you guys could offer would be beyond appreciated. Included at the bottom of my post is a link to the Service manual for this TV and quite a few others that are considered similar to it.

If any other information is needed, please let me know. Thank you!

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/10224 ... 32s42.html
Virtual Davey
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Virtual Davey »

I had RGB modded a 1996 Samsung GXTV (GXE 1395) using 8-Bit Guy's tutorial. But I bought a second Samsung GXTV already RGB modded. Newer motherboard (1998) and the board looks quite different, so I'm not totally familiar with how this set was modded. The seller did say "It has been professionally modded in order to get pure RGB from the jungle chip. Some resistors has been changed to get more pure RGB colors". I had mentioned 8 Bit Guy's tutorial to the seller to which he replied "I haven’t followed 8-bit guy’s tutorials I watched it though but it is not the same chassis nor same micom...Instead I've changed the rgb resistors using values for the specific MUX mod...".

The picture looks fantastic, with bright colors, and nice sharpness. Better results than the mod I had done to my 1996 GXTV using 8 Bit Guy's tutorial.

But I'm having an issue with the physical buttons on the television. They rarely perform as they should. For example, the physical On/Off button will instead change the tv's input, most of the time but not all of the time. Volume Up physical button will always behave as an On/Off button. Channel up button will sometimes function as another button too, input I believe. I've checked internally and see nothing obvious. But there seems to be some relation to how the physical buttons perform and the position the the RGB/AV switch installed on the side. The seller says "I’ve separated the sync and sound cable for RGB as av jack connector this is because if you want to use both jacks inputs as a normal av jack the rgb mod will not make any interference. and labeled the switcher between rgb and av... you need to input the yellow and white/red cable in order to get sync/audio for the rgb mod. Actually those cables could be injected directly into the motherboard using the av jack pins but every time that you want to switch to a/v that jack input will be completely unusable... Make sure before you play in RGB mode first connect the scart cable when the tv is off and then turn it on. Remember you're giving 5v to the jungle chip every time that you're playing in RGB so it is just an advice before hook any rgb cable up and to avoid any short...About physical buttons I'm not really sure what happened they were working before. I don’t think it could be the rgb mod the 5v I've took it from a unusable 5v pin header but what I believe it could be prob a cap failed in the buttons motherboard or just simply needs a motherboard cleaning. Try with alcohol at 75% or 99% spray it directly in the buttons and with a toothbrush brush them out...Regarding the 5v I've solder it in a unused pin header that what you’re describing right now its weird because that pin header is not in use from any components on the chassis. If you want to change it I would recommend you use the 5v coming from RF if you don't gonna use the RF in the future".

Luckily I have the GXTV's original remote control, and all buttons work as they should as long as I use the remote, not the physical buttons.
I have a feeling it's the RGB/AV switch that is causing this issue, but I don't want to mess too much with the innards of this set, because the mod appears to be much different than what I'm familiar with and I don't want to cause unnecessary issues because the picture is so nice. Like I said, I have the remote control so it's not too big a deal, but I've spent many hours troubleshooting this button issue and would love an answer/solution if possible.
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

Virtual Davey wrote:But I'm having an issue with the physical buttons on the television
The first thing I'd be trying is some electrical contact cleaner spray on the buttons and then giving them a good pressing.

The buttons work on a simple resistor ladder principle, the problem is the buttons contacts get dirty and build up resistance. This confuses the micro controller.
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MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

VHS_Jess wrote:I picked up four Sony Trinitron KV-13M20 TV's recently. I want to have a go at modding them via osd mux. I've already got the board out of one and am trying to identify all the locations of things and getting parts ordered, but I'm having trouble digesting the info in this thread. Is there like a good place to go for info or should I just keep trying to work through the pages of thread here?
That's a BA-3 chassis. Not RGB moddable via the Jungle injection methods we use here.

There are threads on this site that show how the Sony BA-3 chassis can be S-Video modded.
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MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

superfzzbigmuff wrote:Hi everyone, I recently came into possession of a Sony KV-35s66.

I have managed to find the service manual of this TV. I disassembled the board and have already located the Blanking and RGB inputs on the Jungle IC (CXA2095S). I have already desoldered the necessary pins and attached wires to the necessary pins.

The problem I've run into is that I'm having trouble figuring out what to do next. Here is a list of the things that are confusing me:

I have seen so many different variations on how to wire up the scart input that I'm worried I will find myself wiring it up wrong and damaging my set.

I am having trouble understanding where I should connect my audio out wires on the board. I have two inputs, one composite and one S-video. I can not figure out which points on the board would be the correct ones to connect to.

Finally, I am unsure of where on my board I should be pulling 5v from.

Any help you guys could offer would be beyond appreciated. Included at the bottom of my post is a link to the Service manual for this TV and quite a few others that are considered similar to it.

If any other information is needed, please let me know. Thank you!

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/10224 ... 32s42.html
AA-2D chassis has been covered a few times in this thread.

Basic RGB mod process is to remove R1123, R1128 and R133. OSD mux resistors are 330 Ohm

Your specific model should have a text port CN1801 where RGB and Blanking voltage can be fed.

Blanking is 5V into a SPDT switch, then to a 470 Ohm resistor and then into the blanking pin of port CN1801.
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MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
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matt
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by matt »

Virtual Davey wrote:But I'm having an issue with the physical buttons on the television. They rarely perform as they should. For example, the physical On/Off button will instead change the tv's input, most of the time but not all of the time. Volume Up physical button will always behave as an On/Off button. Channel up button will sometimes function as another button too, input I believe.
MarkOZLad is correct on this. It's a common problem with old TVs (Philips/Magnavox seems to be especially bad for this). If contact cleaner doesn't work, you can replace the microswitches themselves. Either salvage them from another chassis or take measurements and order replacements from an electronics supplier.
RIPConMan
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by RIPConMan »

Hi there, I'm new to this whole CRT modding thing, and I'm having a bit of an issue. I have magnavox 20MT1331/17 and after several weeks of research I decided to attempt to mod in component input as outlined in this post: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=56155&p=1440296#p1440296. After many, many checks with a multimeter, I believe I've wired it all up correctly. However, the CVI input option never appears, no matter what value I set in the service menu for OP5. My biggest clue thus far is that while the service manual linked in the post I was following says that a bit value of 8 on OP5 should enable CVI, it actually enables an AV channel labelled FRONT, which the manual says should be on a bit value of 16. And 16 does nothing, even after attaching the blanking pin to 8V with a surface mount 1k resistor, as instructed.

Am I just possibly on a different firmware that doesn't support component and therefore SOL? Or am I missing something? Thanks in advance.
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