TV RGB mod thread

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Virtual Davey
Posts: 9
Joined: Tue Jun 23, 2020 5:45 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Virtual Davey »

I RGB modded my GXTV (GXE1395) a couple years ago using 8-Bit Guy's tutorial video. Worked very well all this time, until today. I heard a hissing sound, thought it was air. Opened the set and notice a resistor sparking (small video clip below). I think the hissing might have actually been the resistor sparking.In the video you will also see the tube flashing with the "beat of the spark" if you know what I'm trying to explain. This is while the tv is off, in standby. There is a red light on the front of the set that is normally always on when the set is plugged in. That little red light also "pulses" to the "beat of the spark". You can see it in the attached picture that I also included (marked D201 on the board). It looks easy enough to replace, but I can't find what part that is. Also, what could have caused this? I would like to know what caused it before replacing it, so I can prevent it from happening again. The set does not turn on at this point, just all this pulsing activity while plugged in.

Picture of D201 which sparks:
https://postimg.cc/s1QRxmbT

Video clip of the sparking and pulsing tube (begins rather blurry but clears up - was rushing because I didn't want to leave the set plugged in):
https://vimeo.com/627808747
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matt
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Location: Honolulu, Hawaii

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by matt »

That's a diode, not a resistor. I'd want to replace it ASAP if I were you! If you have a copy of the service manual, you should be able to find an equivalent part.

It unrelated to the RGB mod.
Azul
Posts: 2
Joined: Fri Nov 13, 2020 8:11 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Azul »

DJO_Maverick wrote:Final (?) follow up on my Sony saga... I got another similar Trinitron from the same line, a KV-32S42, also an AA-2D chassis, to take another run at for comparison. However, in initial testing before I've done anything to it yet, I've discovered it has the EXACT same arc and semi-jailbar distortion in the exact same spot as my 32S22 does... it is merely fainter without having done anything to the set yet. This makes me think there was nothing wrong with the initial methodology, but maybe it's just a quirk/defect of this particular line of Trinitrons... either of the tube or the chassis.

Chances are it might not bother a lot of people (it's really only obvious on certain colors), but I'm definitely curious if anyone else has ever played around with any AA-2D chassis and noticed this (with or without mod).
Did you find a solution? I had the same problem with my TV and I think I have solved it but I'm not really sure.
tongshadow
Posts: 613
Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2017 5:11 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by tongshadow »

Virtual Davey wrote:I RGB modded my GXTV (GXE1395) a couple years ago using 8-Bit Guy's tutorial video. Worked very well all this time, until today. I heard a hissing sound, thought it was air. Opened the set and notice a resistor sparking (small video clip below). I think the hissing might have actually been the resistor sparking.In the video you will also see the tube flashing with the "beat of the spark" if you know what I'm trying to explain. This is while the tv is off, in standby. There is a red light on the front of the set that is normally always on when the set is plugged in. That little red light also "pulses" to the "beat of the spark". You can see it in the attached picture that I also included (marked D201 on the board). It looks easy enough to replace, but I can't find what part that is. Also, what could have caused this? I would like to know what caused it before replacing it, so I can prevent it from happening again. The set does not turn on at this point, just all this pulsing activity while plugged in.

Picture of D201 which sparks:
https://postimg.cc/s1QRxmbT

Video clip of the sparking and pulsing tube (begins rather blurry but clears up - was rushing because I didn't want to leave the set plugged in):
https://vimeo.com/627808747
Whatever is happening is bad enough to "shoot" the tube while it's off, and I think it's unrelated to your RGB mod. Troubleshooting a CRT isnt easy without a service manual, so find one, find what part of the circuit is letting that massive arc happen and start checking voltages and components.
Virtual Davey
Posts: 9
Joined: Tue Jun 23, 2020 5:45 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Virtual Davey »

I ordered a few replacement diodes which should come in any day now. Bought a few extras just in case it blows again as soon as it's replaced. I'd be shocked if that alone solves my issue, but I need to start somewhere. That long "hissing" sound I heard is concerning though, but I'm pretty sure it was the diode "fizzing away". If the tube is cracked, would there be a "hissing" sound from air escaping? I see no cracks on the neck by the way. But isn't the tube a vacuum? I'd think I'd be out of luck if it cracked somehow. Is the neck even replaceable?
I found the service manual rather quickly here:
https://elektrotanya.com/samsung_gxe139 ... nload.html
setiawan
Posts: 21
Joined: Thu Jan 14, 2021 3:10 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by setiawan »

I just picked up a CRT, and I think I might be way in over my head.. This would be my first time working on a CRT, and I don't have a background in electronics. I think I chose hard mode.

The model is a Panasonic VW-CM1450. A security monitor with 2x composite in and 2x s-video in. I can find almost nothing about this monitor on the internet. Barely any comments on it to be found, and no service manual as far as I can see (there is an operating manual though). I opened up the unit and took a peek inside. It looks like its signal processing IC is a Sanyo LA7680, which I've found the datasheet for here: https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/down ... ber=LA7680

Here's the block diagram. No RGB inputs, however I see pin 18 and 20 are B-Y In and R-Y In respectively, so I'm hoping there might still be a chance to component mod it:

Image

This is from the 'sample application' page of the datasheet, where they give an example of the usage of those pins. Again, I don't have a background in electronics so I'm not entirely sure what I'm looking at, so I'm hoping someone with a bit more knowledge might be able to tell me whether doing a component might be viable here:

Image

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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matt
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Location: Honolulu, Hawaii

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by matt »

Azul wrote:
DJO_Maverick wrote:Final (?) follow up on my Sony saga... I got another similar Trinitron from the same line, a KV-32S42, also an AA-2D chassis, to take another run at for comparison. However, in initial testing before I've done anything to it yet, I've discovered it has the EXACT same arc and semi-jailbar distortion in the exact same spot as my 32S22 does... it is merely fainter without having done anything to the set yet. This makes me think there was nothing wrong with the initial methodology, but maybe it's just a quirk/defect of this particular line of Trinitrons... either of the tube or the chassis.

Chances are it might not bother a lot of people (it's really only obvious on certain colors), but I'm definitely curious if anyone else has ever played around with any AA-2D chassis and noticed this (with or without mod).
Did you find a solution? I had the same problem with my TV and I think I have solved it but I'm not really sure.
Never seen that curved line before, but the jailbars on the left side of the screen are caused by a bad capacitor on the B+ power supply. It's a common failure in Trinitrons.
Virtual Davey wrote:I ordered a few replacement diodes which should come in any day now. Bought a few extras just in case it blows again as soon as it's replaced. I'd be shocked if that alone solves my issue, but I need to start somewhere. That long "hissing" sound I heard is concerning though, but I'm pretty sure it was the diode "fizzing away". If the tube is cracked, would there be a "hissing" sound from air escaping? I see no cracks on the neck by the way. But isn't the tube a vacuum? I'd think I'd be out of luck if it cracked somehow. Is the neck even replaceable?
I found the service manual rather quickly here:
https://elektrotanya.com/samsung_gxe139 ... nload.html
Where is the hissing sound coming from? The most common reason is high voltage leaking from either the flyback or the anode cap. If it's the anode, it's easy to fix - it needs to be cleaned out, thoroughly dried, and given a new coat of dielectric grease. If it's on the flyback side, it usually means that the housing is cracked - sometimes this can be patched with silicone but it might be better to look for a new flyback.
darknezz19
Posts: 60
Joined: Tue Oct 13, 2015 1:59 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by darknezz19 »

Has anyone tried this RGB mod for sets with YUV OSD in? The guy who came up with it on facebook speaks Spanish, but curious if any gringos have tried it yet.

Image

Image
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Syntax
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Location: Australia

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Syntax »

Nothing to do with YUV, its a crappy neckboard mod. No brightness control, usually missing clamping black levels way off.

Just get a component convertor and call it a day.
darknezz19
Posts: 60
Joined: Tue Oct 13, 2015 1:59 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by darknezz19 »

I'm going to try it anyway. Can't wrap my head around it till i try it and see what's the result. It taps in before the rgb amp, and has osd mux pulldowns. Most neckbaord mods tab at the leads running from chassis to neckboard. This one goes right into the line without cutting backfeed. But maybe it's just wishful thinking on my part.
Last edited by darknezz19 on Fri Oct 22, 2021 6:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
toxictigga
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2021 5:22 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by toxictigga »

crispytreat wrote:Hi All. I have a 27" Toshiba - 27af43. The mod is successful and everything looks really good. I have some wavy lines/noise/interference on some grey/gray backgrounds. If I adjust the brightness it appears that it is always there but only visible on certain colors. I have played around with ground points, sync termination, cable length, and various other things that I have picked up from these forums but I am not able to get rid of it. It is on present on the s-video, component, or composite inputs. Any other suggestions on what I can do to get rid of this wavy lines/noise/interference?
Has anyone noticed this issue? I'm noticing the exact same issue on two of the 27AFX54. Any help here would be super helpful.
luizlink64
Posts: 6
Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2021 5:00 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by luizlink64 »

Image
Can I ground the 75ohm resistor to the same wire that collects the 3 grounds of the EXT rgb?
toxictigga
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat Mar 06, 2021 5:22 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by toxictigga »

Yes, you can tie all grounds together.
Shiver_169
Posts: 40
Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2018 4:27 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Shiver_169 »

Hi guys.

I got free an old CRT Sharp 20MR10 has a jungle that have RGB and Blanking inputs but when injecting the RGB signals, and the 5V in Blanking I turn on the source (for this case a SNES) and I get an image for a second and then gradually go towards a totally black screen. Before I did tests adding capacitors and resistors to the RGB input lines but I got a black screen directly by removing this I got a signal that looks good at startup but just turns off after a short time. I have been reading about several mods on Sharp TVs but nothing is ever concluded. Some say that it has a digital OSD Chip and that is why it is not possible but I do not know according to the data sheet it is not like that. Hopefully someone can help me.
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Edgecrusher
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Edgecrusher »

I've been trying to find an intelligent way to ask a problem I'm faced with and I hope I get it right.

If I mod a crt for RGB and I need to connect to something like a PI through a cheap HDMI to component convertor, how do I include the sync when I just have the red green and blue RCA jacks on the convertor at my disposal. I haven't seen anyone address this which makes me think I'm missing something obvious. I've been researching for about a month and I'm getting impatient for the answer, I apologize.

No Retrotinks for sale these days much less anything else.
Shiver_169
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Shiver_169 »

Edgecrusher wrote:I've been trying to find an intelligent way to ask a problem I'm faced with and I hope I get it right.

If I mod a crt for RGB and I need to connect to something like a PI through a cheap HDMI to component convertor, how do I include the sync when I just have the red green and blue RCA jacks on the convertor at my disposal. I haven't seen anyone address this which makes me think I'm missing something obvious. I've been researching for about a month and I'm getting impatient for the answer, I apologize.

No Retrotinks for sale these days much less anything else.
I think you are a bit confused, the HDMI converters you are talking about convert this signal but to component video which is another type of signal very different from what is discussed in this thread. For a case like the one you are talking about, I would recommend you better use an HDMI to VGA converter and find a way to combine Hsync and Vsync in Csync.
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Hoagtech
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Hoagtech »

GoXoD wrote:Sweet! that's awesome, I ordered a scart socket and some other small parts and will set this up as such.

I was wondering where did you tie your 5v to on that set? I'm looking at an unpopulated connector on the board that has 5v and also links to pin 15.
If I connected the two should that be fine or will i have problems? Or do I remove Diode d004 from the closed caption portion and tie the 5v into that side of pin 15?
The two red dots is what I was looking to do from the start.
Image


Thanks for the info!

After reading this thread for a couple years. Im ready to trek down the path of RGB mod.

I have a Sony KV-27TS29 and removed and cleaned the Boards

Image
Image


I found the message of GoXoD and retrieved my M board. I couldn't tell if he ever finished his mod

I located RGB on the Closed caption shcematic but couldnt locate Datasheets on IC101 Tuner Control (Sony CXP80424-065S, 340F06E) or IC301 (CXA1465AS, 344D68K)


This is the Schematic for IC 150 CC

Image


I realize its a waste of time helping people who are not committed to taking the steps needed to finalize, but I want to reassure everyone Im here and I wont quit till its finished!

I feel like I'm going about this wrong on the CC instead of the Jungle IC

Here's the Service manual for reference

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/12876 ... =12#manual
Copyright 1987
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matt
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by matt »

Hoagtech wrote:
I feel like I'm going about this wrong on the CC instead of the Jungle IC

Here's the Service manual for reference

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/12876 ... =12#manual
Try this service manual instead:
https://elektrotanya.com/sony_kv-27ts29 ... ad.html#dl

This mod should be pretty straightforward. You'll want to disconnect the CC circuit from the jungle IC and add your RGB to pins 16, 17, an 18 of the jungle chip. The easier way seems to be by removing C315, 316, and 317. Blanking will most likely be on pin 15. The usual 75 ohm terminating resistor and 0.1uF inline capacitor should be fine - the jungle chip expects 0.7pp RGB.

This generation of Trinitrons is great for RGB mods, since you don't have to interfere with the OSD. Some models have the closed caption inputs on a pin header which makes it especially easy (not sure how yours is in this regard).
Exjad
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Nov 01, 2021 10:40 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Exjad »

suprcrackers wrote:BTW, I did find info on the Sanyo LA7610 chip. Let's just say that took a loooooong, loooong, time to track down.
Would anyone happen to have the info for this chip? I have a composite only RCA with this chip and I would love to mod it, but I cannot find the documentation
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

Hoagtech wrote:
GoXoD wrote:Sweet! that's awesome, I ordered a scart socket and some other small parts and will set this up as such.

I was wondering where did you tie your 5v to on that set? I'm looking at an unpopulated connector on the board that has 5v and also links to pin 15.
If I connected the two should that be fine or will i have problems? Or do I remove Diode d004 from the closed caption portion and tie the 5v into that side of pin 15?
The two red dots is what I was looking to do from the start.
Image


Thanks for the info!

After reading this thread for a couple years. Im ready to trek down the path of RGB mod.

I have a Sony KV-27TS29 and removed and cleaned the Boards

Image
Image


I found the message of GoXoD and retrieved my M board. I couldn't tell if he ever finished his mod

I located RGB on the Closed caption shcematic but couldnt locate Datasheets on IC101 Tuner Control (Sony CXP80424-065S, 340F06E) or IC301 (CXA1465AS, 344D68K)


This is the Schematic for IC 150 CC

Image


I realize its a waste of time helping people who are not committed to taking the steps needed to finalize, but I want to reassure everyone Im here and I wont quit till its finished!

I feel like I'm going about this wrong on the CC instead of the Jungle IC

Here's the Service manual for reference

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/12876 ... =12#manual
If it were me I'd either remove the Closed caption chip or lift the RGB (5,6,7) and Box (3) legs of the Closed Caption chip.

For RGB I would remove R159,R160,R161. I would then remove R162, R163 and R164 and then jumper across the pads (a big solder blob across where eash resistor was would likely do). I would then inject 75 ohm terminated RGB into the empty holes from legs 5,6,7 of removed closed caption chip header. Factory caps C315, C316 and C317 will likely be fine to leave in place. Could change them to 0.1uF later if there are issues.

For blanking I'd take a 5V line and connect it to the empty pin 3 "Box" of the closed caption header. Can first go to a switch if you want to be able to enable and disable RGB.
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MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
Pahnda
Posts: 1
Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2021 6:51 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Pahnda »

Hi all,

I just tried to do a RGB mod to my TM-1700PN-K using this guide: https://immerhax.com/?p=336

However my mod is not working so I undid everything.
When thinking about what went wrong ... I noticed that my OSD Menu is all black and not white, like it should be.
It also was like this before I started to do the mod.
I'm quite sure, that that's the reason why my mod is not working.

Image

The blanking voltage on pin 24 is about 0,3 V when OSD is off, when I press the menu-button and the black OSD is shown, it is 0,6 V.
Shouldn't it be about 5 V in the menu?
I tried applying 5V direktly to pin 24 when the OSD is on, but than the picture goes completly black.

Has anyone a hint where to look at? I think I first need to get the OSD menu white again :D.
Any ideas?
culexus
Posts: 10
Joined: Tue Feb 06, 2018 10:46 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by culexus »

Hi I may get me a Panasonic wm-cm 1480 and started to look at a possible RGB mod for it. Never done this before so I ask here to see if Im way off :)
I know all about the risk of high voltages so no worry.

I got the schematics for the monitor and as you can see there is a MPU that controlles the Jungle chip (AN5192K), if I look at the RGB in for this chip I
see that the RGB lines are all tied together. And pictures online when viewing the OSD is all grayish. So there is only one Line from the MPU to input of
the RGB at the Jugle chip. I guess that is the reasson why it is all gray. So I will cut traces on the pcb to seperate the RGB lines and copple the one sigle line
from the MPU with 3x diodes "1n4148" before it goes into the RGB lines of the Jungle. I hope that this will work:) Not shure on that one.

Next up is just to feed the RGB from A BNC connector at the back ringt to the Jungle chip RGB in. I made a schematic for it have a look.
You can also see the switch for the blanking so I can switch it to RGB mode when I need that.

My main goal is that I do get the OSD to work even if I use the RGB in, and by toggle switch back to OSD mode all will be stock.

What do you think?

My drawing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FfajE7 ... sp=sharing

Snapshot from the manual
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aqViFd ... sp=sharing

Service manual https://drive.google.com/file/d/17RoNPr ... sp=sharing
chickenxhat
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2021 12:38 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by chickenxhat »

[deleted]
Last edited by chickenxhat on Mon Nov 15, 2021 2:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
chickenxhat
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Nov 14, 2021 12:38 am

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by chickenxhat »

matt wrote:
Hoagtech wrote:
I feel like I'm going about this wrong on the CC instead of the Jungle IC

Here's the Service manual for reference

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/12876 ... =12#manual
Try this service manual instead:
https://elektrotanya.com/sony_kv-27ts29 ... ad.html#dl

This mod should be pretty straightforward. You'll want to disconnect the CC circuit from the jungle IC and add your RGB to pins 16, 17, an 18 of the jungle chip. The easier way seems to be by removing C315, 316, and 317. Blanking will most likely be on pin 15. The usual 75 ohm terminating resistor and 0.1uF inline capacitor should be fine - the jungle chip expects 0.7pp RGB.

This generation of Trinitrons is great for RGB mods, since you don't have to interfere with the OSD. Some models have the closed caption inputs on a pin header which makes it especially easy (not sure how yours is in this regard).

Turns out the KV-27V10 also uses this chassis! I was able to simply follow this quick sketch and get rgb over scart. However...

https://imgur.com/a/YQJKQcZ

I have a strange vertical crawling checkerboard pattern scrolling up through the image as well as distinct white shadow to the left of the image on whites and brights. I perhaps have sync connected to the wrong scart pin? Which pin should I connect sync to if I'm injecting it into the s-video Luma pin?

EDIT: I failed to bridge the ground connections to common. Once I did this the ghosting to the left of any white imaging disappeared. Hooray!
However, now that the image is being properly displayed I am noticing quality issues. Color saturation is poor, as though somewhere along the signal path something is being attenuated. Reading reference to the other post on a set with this chassis it was recommended to remove certain numbered components. Will this be necessary for my set as well? Would the removal of the referenced components impact such things as color intensity, light snow in the image, vertically crawling checkerboarding (primarily when displaying 480i, like on the Playstation boot logo)?

If I were to move my RGB insert to the emptied leg through-holes of the RGB out from the CC chip I would then follow the suggest to remove R159-161 and then remove R162-164 and bridge them, would this clean up my signal and have everything at the correct levels?
notsonic
Posts: 23
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2007 5:18 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by notsonic »

I'm planning on modding a Sharp 13G-M60. It has a IX2573CE for the jungle chip.

Pin 14 Blanking
Pin 15 R
Pin 16 G
Pin 17 B

My problem is that this tv only has an RF input, so I have to do something for sync. Pin 39 is marked as Ext Video In, so I think it's safe to assume composite/sync can go there. But how do I tell the tv to switch to it? Block diagrams for similar Sharp jungle chips show a switch between Pin 37 and Pin 39 but not what controls the switch.
Spoiler
Image
Image
isolenz
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by isolenz »

Hi All, First time poster, long time reader.

I just picked up a samsung txj2550. It has a TDA8373. I believe I have the proper pins nailed down (Pins 23,24,25 and 26 (blanking)).

The RGB voltage (based on the schematic for my tv) looks to be 3.3V, and I plan on using this primarily for JAMMA based boards which I understand are 0 -> 4V. I may want to use this down the road for SCART voltages in the future too though, which I understand top out at 0.7v.
I also have a PARSEC supergun which seems to output 0.7v RGB through it's BH7236AF IC which is an option for running my JAMMA based boards.

How should I handle this situation? Should I target a common input of 0.7v regardless of the situation and amplify the signal to 3.3v for the TDA8373? Or would I get better quality putting in multiple lines, one for JAMMA and bring it down a smidge, and another for other sources that I would need to amplify up?

Thanks!
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

notsonic wrote:I'm planning on modding a Sharp 13G-M60. It has a IX2573CE for the jungle chip.

Pin 14 Blanking
Pin 15 R
Pin 16 G
Pin 17 B

My problem is that this tv only has an RF input, so I have to do something for sync. Pin 39 is marked as Ext Video In, so I think it's safe to assume composite/sync can go there. But how do I tell the tv to switch to it? Block diagrams for similar Sharp jungle chips show a switch between Pin 37 and Pin 39 but not what controls the switch.
Spoiler
Image
Image
FYI the IX2573CE chip is a clone of the Toshiba TA1201. It's datasheet suggests it should work fine with analog RGB through the pins you suggest. Likely an OSD mux candidate.

For the AV switching I believe this chip needs to be switched via I2C serial commands.

You should be able to input your video signal into the cap that leads to pin 37 (whilst still in TV/RF mode), you might be able to input audio into pin 53. Thereby no needing to switch to AV

HOWEVER...The first thing you need to work out is if your TV has a live chassis. If so you will need to use an isolation transformer on the set or it could short out your external device. A dead giveaway on a live chassis is a transformer on the antenna input before the tuner.
___________________________________________________
MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
notsonic
Posts: 23
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2007 5:18 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by notsonic »

MarkOZLAD wrote:
notsonic wrote:I'm planning on modding a Sharp 13G-M60. It has a IX2573CE for the jungle chip.

Pin 14 Blanking
Pin 15 R
Pin 16 G
Pin 17 B

My problem is that this tv only has an RF input, so I have to do something for sync. Pin 39 is marked as Ext Video In, so I think it's safe to assume composite/sync can go there. But how do I tell the tv to switch to it? Block diagrams for similar Sharp jungle chips show a switch between Pin 37 and Pin 39 but not what controls the switch.
Spoiler
Image
Image
FYI the IX2573CE chip is a clone of the Toshiba TA1201. It's datasheet suggests it should work fine with analog RGB through the pins you suggest. Likely an OSD mux candidate.

For the AV switching I believe this chip needs to be switched via I2C serial commands.

You should be able to input your video signal into the cap that leads to pin 37 (whilst still in TV/RF mode), you might be able to input audio into pin 53. Thereby no needing to switch to AV

HOWEVER...The first thing you need to work out is if your TV has a live chassis. If so you will need to use an isolation transformer on the set or it could short out your external device. A dead giveaway on a live chassis is a transformer on the antenna input before the tuner.
Awesome thanks for the info. The manual makes no mention of using an isolation transformer when servicing, but the tuner is separate from the rf connector. (It also looks like the chassis has provisions for front composite and stereo audio, but of course it's all unpopulated.)

Here's the manual and some pictures of the chassis.
https://usermanual.wiki/Document/Sharp1 ... 1538401927
Spoiler
Image
Image
Image
If I do need an isolation transformer, I'm familiar with them in arcade cabinets, but is there anything a little more plug and play available for this kind of use case where I dont have a giant arcade cabinet to hide the transformer in?
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maxtherabbit
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by maxtherabbit »

you can get standalone inline ones, they have a power cord and receptacle
fdolop79
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2021 7:57 pm

Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by fdolop79 »

Hi all,

I just finished modding my first TV a Sony KV 37M36D Chassis AA D1. I followed some tutorials and once finished I turned on to test the results. I noticed it kind of worked as I could see very barely the image (it was kind of dark) so I thought it had to do w/ the RGB resistors so I removed them and connect directly expecting to have a brighter picture. Sort of worked but still is kind of dark (see the picture). I read that some people adds capacitors so I’m kind of lost.

Can somebody help me to guide me on what could be missing? I added the part of the diagram of the chassis.
Thanks

Image
Image

https://ibb.co/2SSR1Yd
https://ibb.co/cv8hSHB
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