TV RGB mod thread

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Gonzalo
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Gonzalo »

MarkOZLAD wrote:
You’ve got vertical jailbars. Try googling that and see if you can find anything.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Found some info and i'll report back if i resolve this issue.
Gonzalo
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Gonzalo »

vol.2 wrote:
That looks like ringing getting into scan time somehow. You would first have to determine if it's present in the video signal or not. If it's from the video signal, your TV is okay and it's coming from your signal.


However, I think it's the TV. My guess just looking at it is that it's the ripple from the flyback leaking into the ground plane and something somewhere isn't filtering it out properly.

IAC, I've had similar issues and I was never able to fix them. I'm actively working on one set that I've exhausted almost everything I can think of, including (but not limited to) isolating the heater from the cathode, changing all the caps in the deflection circuitry, adding extra filtering to all of the power supply rails, and filtering all the AC out of the video signal.

Maybe you will have better luck than I do, but it might be hopeless.
Its not video signal related, as the Amiga500 and the Playstation i tested both do the same.

As MarkOZLAD said there's some info googling "vertical jailbars" and sony trinitrons. I read that it can be mitigated lowering brightness.. I'll try and report back. I'm not able to perform the fixes you tried.

Thank you for your answers!
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matt
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by matt »

Gonzalo wrote:How do i get rid of the ghosting and shades from the left of the screen? Is that some kind of interference and wires have to be shielded?

Image

Image quality is very good. Picture doesnt make it justice.
Those look like ringing artifacts from poor filtering in the power supply. It's usually caused by a bad capacitor on the B+ line going to the flyback. I doubt it's related to your mod.

What model is your TV? I've fixed this problem on a couple of my TVs and it shouldn't be hard to find the bad part.
Gonzalo
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Gonzalo »

matt wrote: Those look like ringing artifacts from poor filtering in the power supply. It's usually caused by a bad capacitor on the B+ line going to the flyback. I doubt it's related to your mod.

What model is your TV? I've fixed this problem on a couple of my TVs and it shouldn't be hard to find the bad part.
Its a Sony KV21FE12A, with OSD mix mod

This is my mod post..
viewtopic.php?p=1410111#p1410111

And now that i review that post screens, i notice the ghosting there too.. :cry: :cry:

Any tip about this issue is greatly appreciated, Matt.
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vol.2
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by vol.2 »

Yeah, actually Matt, if you have some ideas about this, I'm trying to address basically the same thing on one of my sets. Though I replaced the caps on the B+ already...

Image

Figured if this is basically the same issue, and you have some ideas, I'm all ears.
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matt
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by matt »

Gonzalo wrote:
Its a Sony KV21FE12A, with OSD mix mod

This is my mod post..
viewtopic.php?p=1410111#p1410111

And now that i review that post screens, i notice the ghosting there too.. :cry: :cry:

Any tip about this issue is greatly appreciated, Matt.
OK, I have no experience with that TV, but I have fixed a couple of earlier model Trinitrons with similar schematics to yours. In my case, the culprit was a 4.7 uF capacitor on the 30v line going into the tuner (which is connected to B+ via a 15k resistor). On your model it is C205. This took me a while to find because its location is far from the PSU/Deflection caps that usually fail and I hadn't thought to check that part of the schematic.

Other potential problems could be C539, C540, C548, C624, or C654 - basically any of the decoupling caps on the B+ line. So far I've rarely seen the larger capacitors (548 and 624 on your TV) fail, but the 4.7, 10, and 25uF ones often seem to go bad.
vol.2 wrote:Yeah, actually Matt, if you have some ideas about this, I'm trying to address basically the same thing on one of my sets. Though I replaced the caps on the B+ already...

Figured if this is basically the same issue, and you have some ideas, I'm all ears.
Yup, looks like the same problem. What model is this? I've only had this problem with Trinitrons (knock on wood) but as I mentioned above it stumped me for a while because the problem cap was one step removed from B+ and I missed it. Maybe it's something similar?
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vol.2
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by vol.2 »

matt wrote: Yup, looks like the same problem. What model is this? I've only had this problem with Trinitrons (knock on wood) but as I mentioned above it stumped me for a while because the problem cap was one step removed from B+ and I missed it. Maybe it's something similar?
It's a Toshiba from the late 80's. Slot mask unit with really nice bright colors and a strong tube. I've got a thread about it over on VFED http://www.vcfed.org/forum/showthread.p ... post659722

Most of the schematic is on page one of that thread, and I have the whole thing if you want to see it bigger. I replaced all of the electrolytics because so many of them were leaking all over the place. I also replaced both the Vert and Hor ICs, the main video IC and the RGB Jungle chip. Also replaced all of the large film caps, just in case. At this point, I think it might be some rogue transistor somewhere messing things up. Maybe it's the power transistors in the supply section or something.

If you've got any ideas, I'm seriously all ears. I've tried practically everything I can think of.
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matt
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by matt »

Well, it looks like you've gone further than I ever have! I don't have any better ideas - so far I've been able to sort out this problem by changing filter caps.
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vol.2
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by vol.2 »

matt wrote:Well, it looks like you've gone further than I ever have! I don't have any better ideas - so far I've been able to sort out this problem by changing filter caps.
I've gone pretty far. At this point, I'm just trying to filter the ringing out rather than identify exactly what's causing it. I tried powering the heater from a bench power supply and putting RC filters on the cathodes and the power supply rails.

I think it might be coming from the RGB board, but I can't seem to filter it out completely, even if I filter the AC going into the cathodes with giant film caps.
Brigandier
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Brigandier »

Just wanted to stop by and give a big thank you to the people of this thread, particularly MarkOZLAD. I have successfully OSD Mux RGB modded a kv-13m53 (BA-4D chassis) using Mark's instructions here: viewtopic.php?p=1342960#p1342960

Build album can be found here: https://imgur.com/a/uGNsOcN

I did run into a couple hiccups, wanted to post them up in case anyone else is modding this little guy.
  • Even though kv-13m53 is BA-4D chassis, some of the resistor numbers differ from Mark's original BA-4D post (that post was geared towards kv-27s42). In his original post, he mentions removing surface mount resistors R086, R087 and R088. On my board, these were R087, 88, and 89,
  • Mark's guide shows placing a 5v source with 1k resistor directly after R028 towards the jungle blanking pin. When I did this, I had no video output unless I had the OSD menu open. I also noticed when I was on the coax input with static, the blanking switch was only heavily dimming the screen. I noticed a diode directly after R028 and was worried about it dropping voltage to the point the blanking wasn't fully activated. After looking around, I came upon another guide by Mark for the BA-5D chassis ( viewtopic.php?f=6&t=63622 ) and I saw that in that instance he had used a 2.4k resistor placed directly after that diode. After modifying my mod to the same, blanking worked correctly and I had beautiful, beautiful RGB display.
Enjoy the action shots. The scanlines aren't that thick on this little guy, but it sure looks nice to me. Camera can't do it justice:
Spoiler
Image
Image
Also, Youtube video of it doing some NeoGeo from a Mister FPGA can be found here: https://youtu.be/G-QaymM2_Yg

Thanks! :mrgreen:
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

Looks great Brigandier.

I’m sure there’ll be quite a few people jealous of your RGB modded white 14” trinny. I know those sets are quite desirable.

Glad you were able to adapt the mod from the provided notes. For the Sony BA4/4D/5/5D stuff people will do well to remember that I’ve never even seen or touched one of these sets as I live on the other side of the planet from them.

As for blanking, these days I favour the technique that the 8 Bit Guy came up with on the mod I helped him with. (See part two of his videos covering the RGB mod). If you have a throughole resistor on the blanking line from micro controller it’s simple and pretty much foolproof.
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Speedy
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Speedy »

I’m completely new to this, but have a couple TVs that I’m wondering if I can RGB mod...

Is it possible to RGB mod a Toshiba 24AF46 or a Sony 24FS120?

Both of these have YPbPr, but have significant red oversaturation (red push).
Does RGB modding a TV bypass the color matrix decoder and restore natural/accurate balance of colors typically?
Do you typically still have the ability to adjust white balance in the service menu after RGB modding?

Thanks!
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

The 24FS120 is a BA-6 chassis which is no go fir RGB mod via jungle RGB hi-jack.
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MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

Toshiba 24AF46 is moddable by OSD Mux focussing on R141, R142 and R143
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abispac
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by abispac »

Found a donor for 2 tvs, one 14 and one 20, i disasemble the 14 inch one, and it only has 1 chip that dont take rgb so im not gonna bother withis one, on the 20 inch one, i found the manual/schematic, so im gonna study it to see where i can do the mix baby....Stay tuned...
abispac
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by abispac »

Well, the tv in question is an Emerson etv20, and following the diagrama i uploaded here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g4CANR ... sp=sharing
I can see that pins 14 to 16 are my rgb with 17 being the blanking
Spoiler
Image
The colors have some 4.7 resistors, so i should replace them with 750ohm resistors + the 75ohm resistors terminated to ground right?
Now on the blanking pin , im not really sure what the capacity of the resistor i should replace.
Plus i dont see 0.1uf caps on this, so i guess i should have to add them?
And i did a search on the forum but not alot of answers showed up, but according to this one , wich is old,and have the same jungle ship
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=56155&p=1161883&hil ... 4#p1161883
This thing has standar video signals, so it should be .7vpp, so that means i should just feed it 5v straight at the blanking line?
Thanks for any kind of help.
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Osirus
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Osirus »

abispac wrote: The colors have some 4.7 resistors, so i should replace them with 750ohm resistors + the 75ohm resistors terminated to ground right?
Now on the blanking pin , im not really sure what the capacity of the resistor i should replace.
Plus i dont see 0.1uf caps on this, so i guess i should have to add them?
And i did a search on the forum but not alot of answers showed up, but according to this one , wich is old,and have the same jungle ship
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=56155&p=1161883&hil ... 4#p1161883
This thing has standar video signals, so it should be .7vpp, so that means i should just feed it 5v straight at the blanking line?
Thanks for any kind of help.
Could be a Digital RGB circuit, which is why there are no grounding resistors. The microcontroller also has an unused Intensity output along with the RGB lines.

Not sure, but it looks like the jungle IC can accept either Digital or Analog OSD, with the type being determined by a Control Register value.
abispac
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by abispac »

Osirus wrote:
abispac wrote: The colors have some 4.7 resistors, so i should replace them with 750ohm resistors + the 75ohm resistors terminated to ground right?
Now on the blanking pin , im not really sure what the capacity of the resistor i should replace.
Plus i dont see 0.1uf caps on this, so i guess i should have to add them?
And i did a search on the forum but not alot of answers showed up, but according to this one , wich is old,and have the same jungle ship
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=56155&p=1161883&hil ... 4#p1161883
This thing has standar video signals, so it should be .7vpp, so that means i should just feed it 5v straight at the blanking line?
Thanks for any kind of help.
Could be a Digital RGB circuit, which is why there are no grounding resistors. The microcontroller also has an unused Intensity output along with the RGB lines.

Not sure, but it looks like the jungle IC can accept either Digital or Analog OSD, with the type being determined by a Control Register value.
Thanks, i found a page of a guy that did the rgb mod to his tv and i was going to follow up some instructions and guess what? Bummer, freaking tv does not have the same chassis as the manual/diagram i found,LOL it has a single chip that handles everything , so it cant be done, ill just keep the tube to use it with an arcade chassis.
Leason learned today: First disasemble your tv, and make sure you are reading the same manual/diagram/schematic, before getting to exited.
abispac
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by abispac »

It wasnt all lost, i used the tube with and old weiyah chassis and it looks great, so i guess i can call this a half succesfulll mod, LOL
Image
Image
francoisadt
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by francoisadt »

Gonzalo wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote:
You’ve got vertical jailbars. Try googling that and see if you can find anything.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Found some info and i'll report back if i resolve this issue.[/quote

Apology my mobile phone submit while typing.

per definition:
]
The Passive Attenuator is a purely passive resistive network (hence no supply) which is used in a wide variety of electronic equipment for extending the dynamic range of measuring equipment by adjusting signal levels, to provide impedance matching of oscillators or amplifiers to reduce the effects of improper input/output terminations, or to simply provide isolation between different circuit stages depending upon their application as shown.

So how much do one need to change incoming voltage/signal from each RGB lines to the chassis? Hoq do one know if the signals coming in is incorrect and not already corect level from a 5v feed?

So which potentiometers are easy to use, like a switch to turn, easy to test the incoming and outgoing feeds or signaks?

Also how do ine know what R, B, G, S signaks amplitude are expected for each line to tge TV CRzt chassis and chip?

Also, what do you mean SCART levels?, how one know what that level is for each line?So scart and av input have the same levels?
francoisadt
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by francoisadt »

Refer to my post above on my question of levels...

http://martin.hinner.info/vga/scart.html

Above link do shoe voltages and impedance for SCART input.
Is this what you mean by having to bring down the voltage if red. blue, green and sybc ti the expected voltage lvel n scRt input video should expect?? So the current from Jamma rgb is then too higj?

How do o e bring down voltage and have correct impedance?

So if voltage is 5v on RGBS bring thst down to Red Scart expected 0.7v by a resistor but what how one get impedance or ohm level correct to be 75ohm per line?

Is my understanding correct here?
Virtual Davey
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Virtual Davey »

Is it normal for, after doing the RGB mod, to have a nice crisp RGB picture, but the composite and RF pictures to now be blurry (well, they appear much blurrier than before the mod). I'm fine with it in general, for I'd much rather have RGB than composite anyway, but just curious if that's an after-effect of the mod. I presume I might be able to open the set and adjust the focus knobs to improve the composite and RF pictures, but in the process blurring up my RGB.
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Osirus
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Osirus »

Virtual Davey wrote:Is it normal for, after doing the RGB mod, to have a nice crisp RGB picture, but the composite and RF pictures to now be blurry (well, they appear much blurrier than before the mod). I'm fine with it in general, for I'd much rather have RGB than composite anyway, but just curious if that's an after-effect of the mod. I presume I might be able to open the set and adjust the focus knobs to improve the composite and RF pictures, but in the process blurring up my RGB.
Not normal. The typical RGB mod doesn't touch the other inputs, save for injecting sync.
Virtual Davey
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Virtual Davey »

Osirus wrote:
Virtual Davey wrote:Is it normal for, after doing the RGB mod, to have a nice crisp RGB picture, but the composite and RF pictures to now be blurry (well, they appear much blurrier than before the mod). I'm fine with it in general, for I'd much rather have RGB than composite anyway, but just curious if that's an after-effect of the mod. I presume I might be able to open the set and adjust the focus knobs to improve the composite and RF pictures, but in the process blurring up my RGB.
Not normal. The typical RGB mod doesn't touch the other inputs, save for injecting sync.
Actually I did touch something which might have affected those other inputs. I placed a jumper wire across a resister. I had followed 8-Bit Guy's tutorial (we modded basically the same CRTs except I have more inputs). You'll see the jumper wire and where I soldered it at the 5:29 mark in the video below. Even 8-Bit Guy was unsure why he was doing it, but heard that it would improve his RGB picture. I suspect that that jumper has affected my other inputs. I don't see how it could not have some sort of effect. See it here, it should link you to the exact point:
https://youtu.be/DLz6pgvsZ_I?t=329
tongshadow
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by tongshadow »

Ok, anyone familiar with RGB mods on LG TVs?
I have a model that supports RGB through SCART and all I apparently need is to install the socket and add the missing components. However, there's no option in the service menu to enable a SCART/RGB channel. Would a voltage on the blanking pin (Pins 16 and 8 maybe?) be enough to display a RGB image? Here's a picture of the schematic:
https://i.imgur.com/y8bnQDF.png
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

tongshadow wrote:Would a voltage on the blanking pin (Pins 16 and 8 maybe?) be enough to display a RGB image? Here's a picture of the schematic:
There's one way to find out.
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MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

Virtual Davey wrote:
Osirus wrote:
Virtual Davey wrote:Is it normal for, after doing the RGB mod, to have a nice crisp RGB picture, but the composite and RF pictures to now be blurry (well, they appear much blurrier than before the mod). I'm fine with it in general, for I'd much rather have RGB than composite anyway, but just curious if that's an after-effect of the mod. I presume I might be able to open the set and adjust the focus knobs to improve the composite and RF pictures, but in the process blurring up my RGB.
Not normal. The typical RGB mod doesn't touch the other inputs, save for injecting sync.
Actually I did touch something which might have affected those other inputs. I placed a jumper wire across a resister. I had followed 8-Bit Guy's tutorial (we modded basically the same CRTs except I have more inputs). You'll see the jumper wire and where I soldered it at the 5:29 mark in the video below. Even 8-Bit Guy was unsure why he was doing it, but heard that it would improve his RGB picture. I suspect that that jumper has affected my other inputs. I don't see how it could not have some sort of effect. See it here, it should link you to the exact point:
https://youtu.be/DLz6pgvsZ_I?t=329
The jumper will only affect the OSD and External RGB.
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OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table 0.7Vp-p : 0.5Vp-p

"Imagine toggle switch OSD modding a TV in 2019" - maxtherabbit
francoisadt
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by francoisadt »

tongshadow wrote:Ok, anyone familiar with RGB mods on LG TVs?
I have a model that supports RGB through SCART and all I apparently need is to install the socket and add the missing components. However, there's no option in the service menu to enable a SCART/RGB channel. Would a voltage on the blanking pin (Pins 16 and 8 maybe?) be enough to display a RGB image? Here's a picture of the schematic:
https://i.imgur.com/y8bnQDF.png
Hi

I am busy planning to mod a LG CRT TV, getting a feed from arcade pcb analog rgb video.

I have bumped into this great resource about arcade analog rgb mapping to scart explaining which resistors sizes to use for each line!!! to lower the voltage to scart levels as Mark suggested here.
Great resource, I am just looking at jamma2euro scart section but lots of info here.
http://www.geocities.ws/podernixie/htpc/jamma2euro.gif
the site link:
http://www.geocities.ws/podernixie/htpc ... #vgaarcade

Other resources for those look here:
http://scarthunter.blogspot.com/2012/04 ... e.html?m=1

Another vga/rgb to scart using schematics, too difficult for me but for those that are experts this could be a great find:
http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/ ... ga2arc.htm

regards
Francois du Toit
Virtual Davey
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by Virtual Davey »

The jumper will only affect the OSD and External RGB.[/quote]

Thank you. Yes, you are correct. After some more experimenting I've noticed that if you have multiple inputs ( mine has 2 composite and 2 RF ), and you adjust the convergence rings, focus knobs, etc to get the sharpest RGB picture possible ( I also use magnetic strips for further fine tuning of the RGB picture) that there is no way to get all the available picture inputs perfect ( in this case the composites and RFs ). Choices have to be made if you want your RGB to be your priority viewing option. If I reset all my adjustments to before the RGB picture's fine tuning, all my inputs are "fine", but my RGB would not be nearly as perfect and clear as it is now. So I had to make a choice: leave the tuning "as-is" so all my inputs are usable, or "fine tune" my RGB via convergence rings, focus knobs, etc to get the best RGB possible (sacrificing clarity in composite and RF). I wish I could adjust them all individually, but there is just no easy way. I suppose I could try to adjust each input separately with the service menu (somewhat), but that is highly inconvenient. For I would have to re enter the service menu every time I chose either RGB or composite/RF.
MarkOZLAD
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Re: TV RGB mod thread

Post by MarkOZLAD »

Virtual Davey wrote: Thank you. Yes, you are correct. After some more experimenting I've noticed that if you have multiple inputs ( mine has 2 composite and 2 RF ), and you adjust the convergence rings, focus knobs, etc to get the sharpest RGB picture possible ( I also use magnetic strips for further fine tuning of the RGB picture) that there is no way to get all the available picture inputs perfect ( in this case the composites and RFs ). Choices have to be made if you want your RGB to be your priority viewing option. If I reset all my adjustments to before the RGB picture's fine tuning, all my inputs are "fine", but my RGB would not be nearly as perfect and clear as it is now. So I had to make a choice: leave the tuning "as-is" so all my inputs are usable, or "fine tune" my RGB via convergence rings, focus knobs, etc to get the best RGB possible (sacrificing clarity in composite and RF). I wish I could adjust them all individually, but there is just no easy way. I suppose I could try to adjust each input separately with the service menu (somewhat), but that is highly inconvenient. For I would have to re enter the service menu every time I chose either RGB or composite/RF.
I've never encountered this before. Have you tried just altering brightness and contrast?
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