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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 1:51 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 84
Get so tired yest that i going start the mod just now, man that R111 is so tiny, what about if i just remove him and replace for one of same value and twist with the 680R?
EDIT: no i think i just mistake myself, going solder a wire downside the board maybe
here some pics of the board: https://imgur.com/a/sze3VI1
Thanks again!


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 7:29 pm 


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Joined: 16 Feb 2009
Posts: 119
Location: Columbus, OH
Pikkon wrote:
LuckyDay wrote:
Otherwise though the rgb mod on the 14" looks great, and I have another set sitting and waiting to mod soon as well.


Does yours have a horizontal shift when using composite as sync,just tried rf as sync and and pretty much fixed it but don't really want to go to the trouble using that setup.


Quoting you because it sounds like you have a similar BA-4D modded to mine, but this question is really for anyone who happens to know.

My 14" 14M42 looks great as far as clarity, brightness, and sharpness, but I'm having difficulty adjusting white balance when the switch on my mod is set to RGB. With the switch turned off and using composite, the white looks great. When RGB is turned on, my whites are yellowish/reddish (using something like the Sega logo screen as an example it's very noticeable. This means other colors in the game are thrown off a bit too.

Has anyone experienced this difference after modding? I adjusted R.Cut, B.Cut, G.Cut, and the R.Drv, B.Drv.G.Drv as the service manual mentions for white balance, and was able to get it a bit closer, but it's still noticeably red/yellow in the white areas.

What I'm curious about is if this has anything to do with the components I'm using or anything as far as the wiring of my mod itself. Is it just trickier to adjust white balance using RGB rather than composite which is only Y/C?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2019 9:59 am 


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Joined: 26 May 2015
Posts: 67
Location: Florida
My 13inch is a BA-1 chassis and I don't have that problem.

You could try and experiment with some 1k pots on the rgb lines.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2019 2:59 pm 


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Joined: 26 May 2015
Posts: 67
Location: Florida
I pickup up another sharp tv,this is a 27a-s120 from 91.

I can't find a service manual for it but did find the jungle ic and it's got me confused,think it's digital.
http://www.weisd.com/store2/NTE7054.pdf

Seems the B input(pin 17)and blanking share the same pin.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2019 7:15 pm 


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Joined: 16 Feb 2009
Posts: 119
Location: Columbus, OH
Pikkon wrote:
My 13inch is a BA-1 chassis and I don't have that problem.

You could try and experiment with some 1k pots on the rgb lines.


Good idea, I have extra pots lying around I could use. Think this would work fine just wiring this right by the SCART socket using the ext RGB lines that are coming from that socket?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 4:02 am 



Joined: 24 Feb 2019
Posts: 2
Pikkon wrote:
I recently modded a sony kv-13tr29 for rgb and it came out great but when I got to adjusting the tv in the service menu HSIZ is locked in at 18 and is disabled,in the service manual it says Not Use for HSIZ,I can move the numbers up and down but has no effect and I tried using other ID-0 through ID-4 but that did nothing,other sets using the same BA-1 chassis have the HSIZ working so I guess it's locked out in software,kind of a bummer as I just wanting to move it just a bit.


There's another way to adjust the width, which will work on just about any TV you come across. All you have to do is locate the horizontal width cap, and change it out for a capacitor of a different farad value.

The horizontal width cap will almost always be a 0.10uf - 0.56uf poly cap with the voltage anywhere from 200v to 300v (though in some cases, as high as 630v). It will always be somewhere in the path of the horizontal yoke windings.

Using that information, you can almost always narrow it down to a single capacitor on the board. Usually lowering the value of it will increase width, but in some cases it may decrease it (depends on the circuit). To be safe, replace it with a capacitor of the same type.

LuckyDay wrote:
I have two 13" Sony's and both have the same limitations of the service menu. Which is a shame because they both have the same slight corner bowing, and some of the menu items that are not working are the PINAMP and C.PIN adjustments.


On these smaller sets you can adjust pincushion manually, using those small round magnets that you always see at the craft store, and some double-sided foam tape.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 3:57 am 



Joined: 13 Feb 2019
Posts: 4
Ok so im currently working on a Sony KV-32S40 it has a problem where it will work for a few minutes and then the image will go out but the sound still works. At first i thought it might be the flyback transformer so i replaced it it was good for about a day but then started doing it again. I thought maybe the tramsformer needed to be adjusted but theres no change. Not sure what i should check bext. I heard something about it being the HV Drive and to replace the jungle. Not sure if thats accurate or not. If so i have 2 extra cxa2095s chips. Any help would be appreciated. Really dont wantnto trash this one cuz i really like the image on ot.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 7:11 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 84
Wigz81 wrote:
Ok so im currently working on a Sony KV-32S40 it has a problem where it will work for a few minutes and then the image will go out but the sound still works. At first i thought it might be the flyback transformer so i replaced it it was good for about a day but then started doing it again. I thought maybe the tramsformer needed to be adjusted but theres no change. Not sure what i should check bext. I heard something about it being the HV Drive and to replace the jungle. Not sure if thats accurate or not. If so i have 2 extra cxa2095s chips. Any help would be appreciated. Really dont wantnto trash this one cuz i really like the image on ot.

dude try to redone every bad solder spot that you find, besides that theres not much to do unless use the tube on another set because nobody gonna know if theres a faulty component


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 7:13 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 84
So guys i finish my sharp mod, theres what it turns out lol
https://imgur.com/a/JWfXwxB

I think the lesson here is: if the set is too old, just let the thing alone with composite, now i never gonna know whats going wrong, the horizontal lines show clearly some bad solder spot or faulty component, you know its all right its all part of the experiment, you cant open a 20 years old TV and expect he gonna just turn on like new after. Anyway i thank you guys for all Pikkon Mark Syntax and all the others, was a nice learning and i gonna keep learning, until next guys! bye bye!


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 8:18 pm 


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Joined: 26 May 2015
Posts: 67
Location: Florida
Did you try and adjust the screen voltage on the flyback,might be worth a try.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 9:46 pm 



Joined: 14 Nov 2018
Posts: 84
Pikkon wrote:
Did you try and adjust the screen voltage on the flyback,might be worth a try.

Man not even think about this, i not even touch the things with power on because im not a technician, well who knows with cauntion maybe i can do this.
here some pics of the drilling part (the fun part) i gonna edit this album later: https://imgur.com/a/ejTCgJo
EDIT: Pikkon are you talking about the screen pot? because i think i let the thing gets misfit when i was working on the board.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Feb 27, 2019 6:38 pm 



Joined: 24 Feb 2019
Posts: 2
Wigz81 wrote:
Ok so im currently working on a Sony KV-32S40 it has a problem where it will work for a few minutes and then the image will go out but the sound still works. At first i thought it might be the flyback transformer so i replaced it it was good for about a day but then started doing it again. I thought maybe the tramsformer needed to be adjusted but theres no change. Not sure what i should check bext. I heard something about it being the HV Drive and to replace the jungle. Not sure if thats accurate or not. If so i have 2 extra cxa2095s chips. Any help would be appreciated. Really dont wantnto trash this one cuz i really like the image on ot.


Do you lose high voltage when the picture goes out? If you still have high voltage and/or neck glow, then you can rule out the Jungle/H Drive/HOT/Flyback as being the problem, at least when it comes to catastrophic failure.

These problems are usually caused by bad solder connections.

The low hanging fruit, is to carefully and lightly tap around the chassis with the back end of an insulated screwdriver. If the problem changes as you tap, then it's for sure a bad solder connection. Tapping around lightly can help you determine roughly where the problem is. If you're not comfortable doing this while powered on, then just resolder everything that looks suspect.

If you have a decent multi-meter (or O-scope) there's some other things you can check to help narrow down the issue. For instance, you should be able to follow the video signal from video input jack, to the input of the Jungle, then out of the Jungle and to the neck board. R/G/B voltage in the output stage (on the neck-board) should be somewhere in the 100-200v range. Nowhere near enough to kill you, but it can give you a nice little zap if you're not careful.

When you say the image goes out, are you talking about the video signal (ie composite, component, etc)? The OSD? Both?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2019 12:19 am 


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Joined: 16 Feb 2009
Posts: 119
Location: Columbus, OH
Success with another Sony 14M52 today, but one issue. The service menu changes that I make will not save, even when powering the TV off (not unplugging it from the AC outlet).

This means color calibration is way off, and there seems to be no way to fix it. Anyone encountered this on a Sony, and is there a fix or can a RAM chip be replaced, or is there some sort of battery in the board that is used to store settings? I don't see a battery of any type in the manual.

When in the menu using the mute+enter method shows the 'Write' message, and it appears to work as I'm doing it, but they still don't save.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2019 2:32 pm 


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Joined: 26 May 2015
Posts: 67
Location: Florida
Your tv might have a eeprom.

Guess the setting from the factory are in place.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Feb 28, 2019 2:43 pm 


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Joined: 16 Feb 2009
Posts: 119
Location: Columbus, OH
Pikkon wrote:
Your tv might have a eeprom.

Guess the setting from the factory are in place.


Yeah, it does and it's possible that chip is bad. I'm going to look into replacing it since it's only $1.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2019 4:58 pm 



Joined: 13 Oct 2015
Posts: 32
Did you hit Enter after Mute+Vol+ to save the write?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2019 6:41 pm 



Joined: 24 Jun 2017
Posts: 3
Hi, long time lurker here, and I finally picked up a TV that was a good candidate for a RGB mod. It's a Sony Trinitron KV-27V40, it uses a BA-4 chassis, so anyone else with the same chassis should be fine with copying my setup. Big shout out to MarkOZLAD for his resistor calculator spreadsheet, saved me a lot of trouble selecting proper resistor values. On to the pics!

If your going to do this to your TV, I'm going to assume you know how to discharge the anode cap, and disassemble the TV without breaking something or blowing yourself up. Without further ado, here's the relevant part of the service manual.
Image
Here we can see our RGB lines coming out of the Microcontroller, and going through a voltage divider before heading off to the jungle IC. 5.6Kohms inline, 680 Ohms to ground. Nothing too special here. Blanking is where things get weird. It seems there are 2 outputs from the Micom heading to the blanking pin of the jungle IC. I simply made my blanking circuit very similar to the top one, just a diode and a 1Kohm resistor. Here's pics of the components on the board.
Image
R025, R026,and R027 are red, green, and blue respectively, and D003 is where I'll put my blanking signal. Also, you can see the header for an optional PiP board, which is where I'll get my ground.
Here's a pic of the underside of the board underneath those resistors.
Image
R086, R087, and R088 are the factory OSD pulldown resistors, but they're the wrong size for what we're doing, so they have to go. I removed them by adding enough solder to cover both sides of the resistor, which caused them to stick to the soldering iron, then it's a simple matter of flicking them off the iron. The results look like this.
Image
As for the rest of the mod, I figured out that when you clear the vias on this board with a solder sucker, there is enough room to poke another component's leg into that via. Here are the results.
Image
In the 3 shrinkwrap tubes are a 910 ohm and a 75 ohm resistor soldered together, the union is where my external RGB comes in, the 910 ohm leg going down into the existing resitor vias, and the 75 ohm leg going go the unused ground behind (hidden under the shrinkwrap tubes). Blanking is going through a 1kohm resistor, a diode, and then into the via by D003. I decided to make this function similar to a Scart TV, so blanking will be enabled by the external device sending 5V to the TV, but I also wanted to add a toggle switch so I could manually force blanking on if the device I connect doesn't have 5V available on it's AV port. I needed to find a source of switched 5V on the board, which was actually kinda hard to find, seeing as how Micom is on 5VSB, Turns out the tuner needs switched 5V, so I grabbed it off a nearby capacitor C626. Like so.
Image
Here's the completed mod, minus the plate I made for the back of the TV.
Image
Now for the moment of truth! Here's my test subject, Mega Bomberman on a Sega Genesis 2, VA3 motherboard (3/4 board).
Image
here's the same, via RGB instead.
Image
Final thoughts and notes: MASSIVE improvement over composite, from both my Genesis and Raspberry PI (RGB via GERT666 board). As for sync You CAN put it in through the composite port, but I suggest using the S-Video port, since it bypasses the comb filter IC, which fixes the issue with the image shifting offscreen to the left. So far I've tried CSYNC and composite video sync over S-video, and they both work fine. The presence of the unused PiP board port leads me to believe that it's also possible to add component inputs as well, I might need to revisit this unless I can find a simple and cheap solution to convert YUV to RGB (some consoles I want to use have component out, but not RGB. Overall, a relatively simple mod with fantastic results! I still need to fix some minor purity and convergence issues with this TV, but other than that, it's perfect! Thanks to all who have contributed to this forum, It's simply the best repository on the internet for RGB modding!


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2019 6:47 pm 


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Joined: 16 Feb 2009
Posts: 119
Location: Columbus, OH
darknezz19 wrote:
Did you hit Enter after Mute+Vol+ to save the write?


Fixed this problem from earlier. I replaced the EEPROM with another I had on a spare board, and the writes work now.

If I had to guess, I'd say I probably burned up this board by mistake when soldering to the 5V pin for my blanking circuit on the RGB mod. I moved the 5V source to another IC, and replaced the EEPROM and things are working now.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 5:21 am 



Joined: 11 Sep 2015
Posts: 12
Just picked up a Toshiba 14AF44 and would love to RGB mod this set. Anyone have any diagrams/photos/install docs for this particular model?

Also, I'd appreciate any tips for discharging the tube. I'm particularly terrified of dying and would appreciate any tips. Any gear, gloves, steps you would recommend? Any and all help is appreciated.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2019 11:33 pm 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 493
Had a quick look and it seems that this TV has digital RGB coming from the micom to the jungle. I’ve been wrong before but it seems unlikely to be moddable.
_________________
___________________________________________________
MarkOZLAD
OSD/External RGB Mux Diagram
OSD/External RGB Mux Resistor Value Table


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2019 11:42 pm 



Joined: 16 Mar 2019
Posts: 1
Hi there,

Been lurking around here for a long time, but had a troubleshooting question I can't seem to answer-

I recently modded a Sharp 27N-S300 to use with a cab project, and it has worked more-or-less fine, with the exception that there is about a 2 inch wide vertical band of faintly lighter/discolored screen on the far right edge. I'm 99.9% sure it's EMI on the ground wire. I've already relocated the jacks and switch and the wiring in general, and finally seem to have narrowed it down to when I physically move around just the ground wire. I've also tried changing the ground points between several candidates. I can actually manipulate it into a position where there is no imbalance with the chassis slightly cracked open, but the forward positioning that happens when I actually close the case brings it back.

I'm using generic insulated 22AWG copper wire. Any tips from anyone else who has dealt with this? Any workable shortcuts such as a sheath or shielding tape I can throw on it?

Thanks-

EDIT: Disregard; took so long to get approved that I got it sorted! Turned out it wasn't so much EMI as having to crank up the cutoff so much (input was pretty low). I added in series resistors per Ozlad's table and it resolved it; still have to crank up the cutoff, but only about half as much. That was enough to remove the jailbar.


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