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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2018 7:21 am 



Joined: 13 Oct 2017
Posts: 6
If I just want to have 2 RGB-enabled systems hooked up to a TV, would it be a good idea to, instead of buying a scart switcher, install dual RGB scart inputs on a TV and use a switch to change between the two? Would I need to use a different kind of switch and SCART or BNC connector when I use coax wires? If so, what do I search for to find these switches and connectors?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2018 10:25 pm 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 405
sparker599 wrote:
If I just want to have 2 RGB-enabled systems hooked up to a TV, would it be a good idea to, instead of buying a scart switcher, install dual RGB scart inputs on a TV and use a switch to change between the two? Would I need to use a different kind of switch and SCART or BNC connector when I use coax wires? If so, what do I search for to find these switches and connectors?


I think you'll find it easier to install a single RGB(s) input in the TV (doesn't have to be scart, could be RCA/BNC) and then find a suitable switch (and possibly adaptor) externally. You would also have to decide how you want to do the blanking, via a manual switch or passing through the blanking pin 16 voltage from the external device.

It may be possible to just daisy chain two scart ports inside the TV and just make sure you only have one external RGB device turned on at a time. Interested in other's thoughts on that. If you were to use a switch in the TV to change ports you would need the switch to handle RGB/Sync/Audio and possibly blanking from both ports. That's a 6 (or 7) point switch already. I'm not a fan of wiring myself, shaky hands, bad eyes :-)


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2018 11:18 pm 


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Its a shit idea.

Sorry its just asking for trouble. So much extra work that a cheap scart switch can handle and you'll end up with interference probs.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2018 6:13 pm 



Joined: 18 Sep 2012
Posts: 129
Wanted to post a sequence to my battle with the Sony Trinitron KV-2959T.
As I've posted it has digital RGB pins for OSD menu and analogue RGB pins unused.
Those pins are disabled and you need to change some registers in the ID side and reset the tv to enable those.

After all this, the tv, while displaying RGB had a wavy effect on the sides. It was not consistence, it would do it like for 5 seconds, stop 2 seconds and do for 3 seconds, but it was annoying.

First I thought this was caused by the scart plug near the flyback or lack of shielding. I've put everything outside and far away from the flyback, and I also bridged all ground pins, nothing.
So I got a shielded rca cable and went into the RCA jacks for audio and video (composite for sync).

Note: I'm using a NES RGB, Snes 1chip with proper attenuation, csync with attenuation and a genesis.
All the same.

Tried changing HFreq, which is different from Hpos. Sadly on newer sony tvs there's no HFreq anymore. It seemed to help but not solve it.

Ok, so I recaped the entire deflection portion, helped just a little.
So I recaped the neckboard. Nothing.
Recaped the color board, there's a pcb just for color, nothing.
Recaped the entire board with the CXA IC, nothing.
Resoldered the flyback.
I was seeing the image getting sharper but not solving the wavy screen.

So, now the thing I found out and I believe this might help other people here.
My Sony BA-5D (KV305) has the image shifted to the left and I guess this might be related to what I've found.
Also this tv is now showing a line in the middle of the screen which changes the color in a exact portion of the screen and I guess this might be related also. Still I didn't had time to work on it.

So, this TV accepts 3 systems: PAL-M, PAL-N and NTSC.
Near the CXA there's already a NTSC crystal and there's a board with 2 other crystal with some pots.
Tweaking the pots changed NTSC to PAL-M and vice-versa and this could be seeing changing in the service menu.
Tried tweaking those pots and things was getting better and getting worse, it was hard to tell, since the problem is inconsistent.

So in this board there's a CXA which selects PAL, SECAM, NTSC, PAL-M.

The problem went away when I unplugged this board. There's no side effect since I intend to use only NTSC.
So if you have sync problems might be your TV not understanding the csync and selecting the wrong color system.

Now I have a question, does sync needs any kind of attenuation to go into the CXA IC?
Also, if the console already have a crystal oscillator why the TV needs the same one?

I didn't had time to test it but would be possible to inject sync straight into the CXA? If so, what pin should be expecting it? I believe the same as composite. Correct?
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2018 8:16 pm 



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Posts: 4
MarkOZLAD wrote:
Sylph4 wrote:
Checked datasheet on TA8759BN and found RGB inputs (47, 49, 51 pins) and TV/TX (pin 53) which are coming to tmp47c634an (seems to be OSD controller).
Also looked and PCB itselt and found that scart Blue pin 7 is grounded, while G/R/BL pins are not connected at all. So all I need to connect RGB/BL wires from scart to Jungle (TA8759BN) chip using your Mux Spreadsheet?


Yes.

For the RGB lines I would be looking to replace R171, R172 and R173 with the 5600R and diode. Remove R179, R180 and R181. The holes left by R179-R181 could become our RGB insertion point. Use 75R to ground and 1000R inline on the RGB lines.

If you want external blanking connect the pin 16 to a diode and then to the R174 on the OSD chip side. (assuming you're getting 5V blanking signal). For internal blanking connect the output of the 5V regulator to the same place, possibly via a switch.

Thanks for help! Made the mod and works flawlessly after first soldering try, great RGB picture.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2018 8:51 pm 


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fandangos wrote:
Wanted to post a sequence to my battle with the Sony Trinitron KV-2959T.
As I've posted it has digital RGB pins for OSD menu and analogue RGB pins unused.
Those pins are disabled and you need to change some registers in the ID side and reset the tv to enable those.

After all this, the tv, while displaying RGB had a wavy effect on the sides. It was not consistence, it would do it like for 5 seconds, stop 2 seconds and do for 3 seconds, but it was annoying.

First I thought this was caused by the scart plug near the flyback or lack of shielding. I've put everything outside and far away from the flyback, and I also bridged all ground pins, nothing.
So I got a shielded rca cable and went into the RCA jacks for audio and video (composite for sync).

Note: I'm using a NES RGB, Snes 1chip with proper attenuation, csync with attenuation and a genesis.
All the same.

Tried changing HFreq, which is different from Hpos. Sadly on newer sony tvs there's no HFreq anymore. It seemed to help but not solve it.

Ok, so I recaped the entire deflection portion, helped just a little.
So I recaped the neckboard. Nothing.
Recaped the color board, there's a pcb just for color, nothing.
Recaped the entire board with the CXA IC, nothing.
Resoldered the flyback.
I was seeing the image getting sharper but not solving the wavy screen.

So, now the thing I found out and I believe this might help other people here.
My Sony BA-5D (KV305) has the image shifted to the left and I guess this might be related to what I've found.
Also this tv is now showing a line in the middle of the screen which changes the color in a exact portion of the screen and I guess this might be related also. Still I didn't had time to work on it.

So, this TV accepts 3 systems: PAL-M, PAL-N and NTSC.
Near the CXA there's already a NTSC crystal and there's a board with 2 other crystal with some pots.
Tweaking the pots changed NTSC to PAL-M and vice-versa and this could be seeing changing in the service menu.
Tried tweaking those pots and things was getting better and getting worse, it was hard to tell, since the problem is inconsistent.

So in this board there's a CXA which selects PAL, SECAM, NTSC, PAL-M.

The problem went away when I unplugged this board. There's no side effect since I intend to use only NTSC.
So if you have sync problems might be your TV not understanding the csync and selecting the wrong color system.

Now I have a question, does sync needs any kind of attenuation to go into the CXA IC?
Also, if the console already have a crystal oscillator why the TV needs the same one?

I didn't had time to test it but would be possible to inject sync straight into the CXA? If so, what pin should be expecting it? I believe the same as composite. Correct?


Please post the ID registers changed to get RGB running.

Nice find with the chip, but you should ALWAYS run a consumer TV set via Composite video for sync. They used the extra info in there to set switches ect. Usually color related though.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2018 9:22 pm 



Joined: 18 Sep 2012
Posts: 129
Syntax wrote:

Please post the ID registers changed to get RGB running.

Nice find with the chip, but you should ALWAYS run a consumer TV set via Composite video for sync. They used the extra info in there to set switches ect. Usually color related though.


I changed everything to 1, so every single ID bit is 127.
I've found some bits to be easy to spot, when you change those you can immediately see "closed caption", or s-video, showing up in the menu.
For RGB I just toggled everything to 1, which I conclude that it's ON.
Each part of the ID register is related to something:

ID 5 00000010 turn some function on while
ID 5 00000001 would turn another function on.

And if you set ID 5 00000011 this would enable both functions.

Now the other part.
The thing with sync on those brazilian sets (and I believe some others will have this problem too) is that it relies on the jungle or another IC to detect what system it should use, PAL-M, NTSC etc.
In this particular set it had a PAL-M and a NTSC crystal on that dedicated board while still having another NTSC crystal near the jungle IC CXA.
So this screws up sync.

I know most sets work great with sync on composite or luma or Y.
But for some that have problems I'm starting to think it would be better to just go straight to the jungle IC.

EDIT: After looking again at the service manual it seems on the BA-5D chassis the video1/2/3 composite pass trough a R 75ohm to gnd and a 0.47uF 10v. So yeah, not a big change in bypassing it.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 2:44 am 



Joined: 18 May 2017
Posts: 405
fandangos wrote:
Syntax wrote:

Please post the ID registers changed to get RGB running.

Nice find with the chip, but you should ALWAYS run a consumer TV set via Composite video for sync. They used the extra info in there to set switches ect. Usually color related though.


I changed everything to 1, so every single ID bit is 127.
I've found some bits to be easy to spot, when you change those you can immediately see "closed caption", or s-video, showing up in the menu.
For RGB I just toggled everything to 1, which I conclude that it's ON.
Each part of the ID register is related to something:

ID 5 00000010 turn some function on while
ID 5 00000001 would turn another function on.

And if you set ID 5 00000011 this would enable both functions.

Now the other part.
The thing with sync on those brazilian sets (and I believe some others will have this problem too) is that it relies on the jungle or another IC to detect what system it should use, PAL-M, NTSC etc.
In this particular set it had a PAL-M and a NTSC crystal on that dedicated board while still having another NTSC crystal near the jungle IC CXA.
So this screws up sync.

I know most sets work great with sync on composite or luma or Y.
But for some that have problems I'm starting to think it would be better to just go straight to the jungle IC.

EDIT: After looking again at the service manual it seems on the BA-5D chassis the video1/2/3 composite pass trough a R 75ohm to gnd and a 0.47uF 10v. So yeah, not a big change in bypassing it.



This might interest intrepidbreak who was looking to mod a BA-5 chassis. May be able to enable those extra RGB pins using this method.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 3:53 am 



Joined: 18 Sep 2012
Posts: 129
The pins enabling method is for kv2959t which I had a problem with sync causing wavy screen. This was related to ntsc/pal m crystal.

The ba-5d has a image shifted to the left and a vertical line in a precise point of the screen which I believe is related to that selection also.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 7:27 pm 


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Just got 3 27" trinitrons for the princely sum of $15, a KV-27TS29, a KV-27TS30, and a KV-27v65. All of them work but need some adjustment, hoping to mod them sometime this week or next.

Edit:
I've done the ts29, same chassis as the kv27s10 I did before, SCART pins 16, 15, 11, and 7 to jungle pins 15-18 respectively through 104 caps and 75ohm to ground, 20, 6, and 4 to AV1 inputs, and of course all of the ground pins to ground.

I'll do the v65 next, because I know I can do the CCD/PiP method with that one too. Only problem is the screen looks like a rainbow. On a blue screen, the left 1/3 of the screen is red, the middle's blue, most of the right 1/3 is green and the rightmost edge is red again. I'm not sure if it just needs a thorough degaussing, some fiddling with the yoke, or a tube replacement.

The ts30 has a bit of an odd chassis. Instead of the OSD RGB going into the jungle, it goes from the pll cont display chip through transistors and some passives then just gets spliced in with the RGB going from the jungle to the tube. Not sure how or if I might do this one, seems like it'd pretty much have to be the neckboard method unless I'm missing something.

Another Edit:

v65 had a bad tube, accidentally killed the ts30 trying to do a neck mod.
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Last edited by BobWoggle on Wed Jun 13, 2018 3:45 am, edited 3 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 11:34 pm 



Joined: 18 Sep 2012
Posts: 129
Need some help again, I'm back at my BA-5d (KV-29FV305) to tackle the last problem a vertical line in the middle of the screen.

It's hard to explain but it's more or less like 2/3 of the screen were a little bit brighter compared to the final 1/3.

When I was experimenting with blanking this is the exact some spot that if I, just an example, insert external R G B into the jungle IC pins, DON'T feed 5v and press menu on the remote. it's the same place were the external signal would show if it was the menu.

So, I believe this is called half blanking? or OSD mask or OSD contrast?
I can't find, anywhere, the datasheet of the CXA2154AS and this makes things way more difficult.

Does anyone have this datasheet?
Or does anyone have any idea what pin half blanking is?

Also just in case, when blanking is off, composite, s-video and component are fine, no vertical line.

EDIT: I believe I found it. It's called 0_YS on the micro controller M306V5ME-109SP, while O_YM is blanking.
The YS is connected by R011 (1k resistor) and C020 220pF capacitor.

Since I'm using the mux method on this set, this has to go so I don't have any kind of masking on the screen.
I'll test this tomorrow, while the wife is out and I can work in peace LoL
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2018 3:52 am 



Joined: 11 Sep 2015
Posts: 11
MarkOZLAD wrote:
I think an OSD Mux method using the RGB pins 30-32 is your best bet. The OSD RGB lines have 6k8R/680R voltage divider which suggests this jungle expects 0.5Vp-p RGB. Pin 29 is your blanking, probably just solder a 5V line to a switch and then to the leg of resistor R1078 that is closest to the micro controller.


Just so I'm clear, like this? >> https://imgur.com/a/Xv3Ky

MarkOZLAD wrote:
It may be possible to disconnect the capacitors of pins 26,27 and 28 and feed the RGB in there, using 25 for blanking but I'm not sure if those pins will be active. There may be an ID setting in the Service Menu which enables them, I don't know though.


I'll wire those up in case as a plan B.

MarkOZLAD wrote:
To get 0.5Vp-p from your Scart RGB, place a 30-Ohm resistor before the 75-Ohm termination.


Could you (or anyone) elaborate on this a bit? My apologies, I'm unclear on what you mean.

Did you mean follow the OP diagram and use the 0.1uf, etc, but add the resistor, like so?

https://imgur.com/a/EoKtP

MarkOZLAD wrote:
This might interest intrepidbreak who was looking to mod a BA-5 chassis. May be able to enable those extra RGB pins using this method.


Thanks for keeping me in mind. I'll wire up 25-28 and then experiment with this a bit.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2018 2:36 pm 



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Cutting YS didn't solve the vertical line.

What solved was moving the sync cable away from the flyback.
The less wires and further away from the flyback and the power board the better.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Mar 03, 2018 9:18 pm 


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LOL, HV can be a bitch hey.

Here's an example of HV too close to the sync line https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWzyv2APdh8

I tried making a sync switch on a PS2 the other day, and the only spot to put it is between the AV out and the 240v in.

Shielding the area helped a little but I gave up on it. Lesson learnt.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2018 8:13 am 



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intrepidbreak wrote:
Just so I'm clear, like this? >> https://imgur.com/a/Xv3Ky


No, other side of the resistor, closest to the micro controller, farthest from the Jungle

intrepidbreak wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote:
It may be possible to disconnect the capacitors of pins 26,27 and 28 and feed the RGB in there, using 25 for blanking but I'm not sure if those pins will be active. There may be an ID setting in the Service Menu which enables them, I don't know though.


I'll wire those up in case as a plan B.

MarkOZLAD wrote:
To get 0.5Vp-p from your Scart RGB, place a 30-Ohm resistor before the 75-Ohm termination.


Could you (or anyone) elaborate on this a bit? My apologies, I'm unclear on what you mean.


Scart RGB signals are 0.7V point to point. It seems likely your jungle requires 0.5V point to point. To achieve this use a voltage divider. A 30-Ohm resistor before your 75-Ohm termination resistor should do nicely. (You need to terminate the RGB lines with 75-Ohm resistors to ground)

intrepidbreak wrote:
Did you mean follow the OP diagram and use the 0.1uf, etc, but add the resistor, like so?

https://imgur.com/a/EoKtP


That's the principal yes.

Here is a link to the OSD Mux digram again in case you missed it. Here is the calculator sheet.

intrepidbreak wrote:
MarkOZLAD wrote:
This might interest intrepidbreak who was looking to mod a BA-5 chassis. May be able to enable those extra RGB pins using this method.


Thanks for keeping me in mind. I'll wire up 25-28 and then experiment with this a bit.


No worries at all, best of luck. If you use the 25-28 you won't need to mux the OSD. Would be the best way but dependent on whether you can activate them.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sun Mar 04, 2018 9:10 pm 


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Anyone in the Chicagoland area interested in helping me RGB mod my Trinitron? I've been meaning to do it myself, but I don't have room for a work station & the dangers of draining the electricity out of it are pretty intimidating.

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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 3:26 am 



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MarkOZLAD wrote:
To get 0.5Vp-p from your Scart RGB, place a 30-Ohm resistor before the 75-Ohm termination.


I'm mistaken, the jungle will be 0.7Vp-p


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 11:39 am 


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Well it's looking like the issue with my KV-27v65 is a damaged tube, so that set's getting parted out and/or recycled. Moving on to the KV-27ts30.

I'm going to have to go in the neck, seeing as the jungle doesn't have rgb inputs. Upsides are I'll still have OSD because it only gets spliced in just before leaving for the neckboard, and I won't need to cut the connector from the main board to the neck board like a savage because there's some handy resistors to pull. Downside is it's still a neckboard mod.

I've got little to no idea what I'm doing. Some questions:

- I need to amplify my rgb signals, is there a specific amp I want to buy? I seem to remember some mention of a purchasable circuit for this?

- Is a switched install doable? In all the talk I've seen of this method, I've seen no mention of a switch to use the old inputs, but I don't know if that's because it's not doable or because the modders just don't want/need the old inputs.

- Sync still goes in the same place?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 8:17 pm 



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Hi all,

Been lurking for a bit, I have a Sony KV32V15. Already have found the datasheet, and am willing to tap into the Jungle OSD lines, but I had a few questions.

There's a closed caption input available on that chip, can I just tap that instead? This would allow me to still have the OSD and not need a toggle switch yes?

For Sync, do I just dump that pin from the scart head I'm mounting into one of the Luma pins on the TVs SVideo inputs?

Also, to work on the Jungle chip, do I need to discharge the CRT? Or am I fine to leave it, as long as I don't touch the tube?

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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 11:41 pm 


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Hello there Mikeyy, you should be able to use the CCD lines. Plug your terminated signals in there through caps, get blanking voltage from scart pin 16 and stick sync in luma, you should be good to go.

So long as you steer clear of the HV you should be alright not to discharge, but I'd do it just to be safe.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 1:39 am 


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I feel dumb for asking this, because it's probably really simple and I'm just not wrapping my brain around it:

What's the proper way to wire a toggle switch for a series 470 ohm resistor for sources that need their sync levels attenuated? (extron switches, etc)


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 2:26 am 


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Either end of an SPDT hooked up to the same sync source, one end through a resistor the other just straight, then the middle pin is your output? That seems right to me but idunno. Feels like I'm giving out loads of bad advice today.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 3:26 am 



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BobWoggle wrote:
Hello there Mikeyy, you should be able to use the CCD lines. Plug your terminated signals in there through caps, get blanking voltage from scart pin 16 and stick sync in luma, you should be good to go.

So long as you steer clear of the HV you should be alright not to discharge, but I'd do it just to be safe.


Cheers, I'll post results once the parts come in.


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 6:19 am 



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Alright. Couple new questions.

When tapping into closed captioning, do I still need pull down resistors and the in line caps?

Also, it seems my scart switch only outputs 3v vs the 5 expected.. is 3 enough to blank the screen?

Edit: here’s a picture from my service manual. I removed the in line caps and tapped in there.. I’m trying to use pin 15 to blank.. is that right.

https://imgur.com/gallery/xUq9b


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 7:01 am 


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You still need the caps and resistors for the CCD/PiP method, yes. In my experience you can use the caps that are already there, and just disconnect the line resistors earlier in the existing CCD chain.

Look up the datasheet for your jungle chip, There should be a section where it goes over each pin in detail, and there it should list a "high" voltage, or a minimum and maximum "high" voltage range for ys on pin 15 (ViH or something like that). High means on.
If your 3v is above that value/between those values (it should be), you'll be fine.

I probably should have said that to begin with, now that I think about it.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 3:47 pm 



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BobWoggle wrote:
You still need the caps and resistors for the CCD/PiP method, yes. In my experience you can use the caps that are already there, and just disconnect the line resistors earlier in the existing CCD chain.

Look up the datasheet for your jungle chip, There should be a section where it goes over each pin in detail, and there it should list a "high" voltage, or a minimum and maximum "high" voltage range for ys on pin 15 (ViH or something like that). High means on.
If your 3v is above that value/between those values (it should be), you'll be fine.

I probably should have said that to begin with, now that I think about it.



Here's the datasheet (http://www.ic72.com/pdf_file/-/88074.pdf), pin 15 is listed as a Ys pin?.. so a) is that the correct pin to put high, and b) what does VIL and V1H 0.4v-1.0V mean? Do I need to involve pin 14 at all?

Edit: Just reading more through the datasheet.. looks like pin 15 is activated by the I2C.. so, will dumping 3-5v in there even do anything?

Last edit, worse case.. could I not just disconnect pin 20,22,24 from the jungle.. tap my RGB into those points on the board, and then tie my sync into pin 3?.. it's basically feeding the RGB direct to the tube.. but it's still going through the RGB amp if I do it right at the jungle..


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 5:08 pm 


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BobWoggle wrote:
Either end of an SPDT hooked up to the same sync source, one end through a resistor the other just straight, then the middle pin is your output? That seems right to me but idunno. Feels like I'm giving out loads of bad advice today.

that makes sense. I will give it a try. still waiting for the rest of my parts to come in and hopefully I will get this Sony KV-27s42 modded in the next week or two. Thanks for the advice!


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 11:29 pm 


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Mikeyy00 wrote:
Here's the datasheet (http://www.ic72.com/pdf_file/-/88074.pdf), pin 15 is listed as a Ys pin?.. so a) is that the correct pin to put high, and b) what does VIL and V1H 0.4v-1.0V mean? Do I need to involve pin 14 at all?

Edit: Just reading more through the datasheet.. looks like pin 15 is activated by the I2C.. so, will dumping 3-5v in there even do anything?

Last edit, worse case.. could I not just disconnect pin 20,22,24 from the jungle.. tap my RGB into those points on the board, and then tie my sync into pin 3?.. it's basically feeding the RGB direct to the tube.. but it's still going through the RGB amp if I do it right at the jungle..



Funnily enough, that's the same jungle as the KV-27ts29 I've just done, as well as the KV-27s10 I did a while back.

YS is the correct pin to drive high in your case. Now I've not given your schematics a proper look but there will probably be a diode somewhere between your CCD chip (assuming you do indeed have one) and your jungle on that line, you can pop it off if that's what you're into, but it's a diode so you should be fine? I'd still for sure remove the series resistors on the CCD RGB lines just to prevent any unwanted activity.

I've noticed no problems with the 2 installations I've done like that, on this same jungle.

VIL and VIH are something along the lines of voltage in low/high. Basically the max it lists for VIL is the highest voltage it will consider as "off," and the min it lists for VIH is the lowest it will count as "on". Since the voltage you're trying to use is higher than the listed minimum high, you will blank the screen.
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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 7:56 pm 



Joined: 22 Feb 2016
Posts: 26
Hrm,

Yeah, this still isn't working. As per the schematic, the RGB CC lines leaving the Jungle hit 3 caps, which I removed and tapped into there. Pin 15 is hooked up to the 5v scart line. https://imgur.com/a/EzpY1

All I get is a black screen.

Oddly enough, I tried going into the OSD RGB pins (they're marked digital RGB though, so I don't think it'll work), and now I just get a white screen on all three inputs.

Back to the drawing board I guess, I'm waiting for some new parts to show up and I'll give it a go again. Worse case I guess I could tap into the neck RGB hey?


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 Post subject: Re: TV RGB mod thread
PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2018 8:39 pm 


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Joined: 09 Mar 2017
Posts: 36
First things first, check whether that black screen is a blanked screen. Try plugging in and switching to another A/V input, with your scart plugged in and driving that pin.
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