2600RGB - Video upgrade kit for the Atari 2600

[RGB32E]

The 2600RGB is now listed on Tim's online shop:

US Distributor - http://etim.net.au/shop/shop.php?crn=207

Worldwide - http://etim.net.au/shop/shop.php?crn=210

If you're hoping to install this in a 6 switch console, you'll have to wait until August 12th to order!

[philexile]

Got it!

[darcagn]

Do you guys have any specific plans for deviating from the typical install instructions?

Like the NESRGB, the 2600RGB kit comes with a 8-pin mini-DIN connector that uses the same pinout as the XRGB-mini (sans audio). Tim's reasoning for using this connector was to use a connector already in use by someone else, but I find it odd because the XRGB-mini port is an input and these are kits for output. What I mean by that is no console uses the 8-pin mini-DIN standard for its output, so you still have to buy/make a separate cable for the *RGB mod kits, which kinda defeats the point of using a connector already used, that is, reusing other existing cables or being able to purchase off-the-shelf cables that are compatible with it.

For my NESRGB-modded NES, I went with the multi-out connector, because that's appropriately in line with the rest of the classic Nintendo consoles.

I'm thinking for this mod I might do a 8-pin (full size) DIN connector with the same pinout as the Sega Genesis model 1, so that any off-the-shelf Genesis model 1 cables will work with it. Additionally, instead of mounting the connector to the back, I might just have a short female 8-pin DIN connector on a cable routed through the hole on the back of the console where the RF-out cable used to be, so it retains the same style as the original console configuration.

The advantages to this are, of course, that you can use any standard Genesis model 1 cable, but also that the Genesis model 1 connector provides both composite sync and composite video on the connector whereas Tim's 8-pin mini-DIN pinout gives you only one or the other. The downside is that using Genesis cables means components (resistors/capacitors) will need to be on the RGB output cables so they'll pretty much have to be SCART output only for RGB out, but that's not a problem given that I use SCART-to-BNC and SCART-to-XRGB cables for my two gaming setups (a BVM and an XRGB-mini). And the 2600RGB will need to be modified appropriately.

Thoughts?

[RGB32E]

Tim hit the nail on the head with his explanation you linked. If you want to connect to a XRGB-mini, you can use a real off the shelf cable, or one of the SCART cables he sells on his site.

It's one thing to double up a SHVC-010 style cable with the NESRGB without component removal, it's another thing to use a Genesis cable. I have to SMH every time I see someone's brilliant idea to use the MD2/SG2 pin out. To repeat what has already been stated, the Neo Geo AES pin out is a good alternative to the 8MDIN as no "unacceptable" components are involved. Heck, even a 10 pin mini din (Sega Saturn) would be great - enough pins for RGBS, S-Video, Composite, and two audio, with no unacceptable parts!

To use the term "off the shelf" is a misnomer given the consoles involved and the many cable variations and configurations. Given that NTSC and PAL consoles can have different external components added to the respective cables, it only complicates using what is referred to as "off the shelf" even further, not to mention the wide range of build quality. Official game console RGB cables that do not have extra components end up being relatively pricy when sold on eBay, so that doesn't help that goal.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/ ... escart.htm

Hence, if you want a 8 pin DIN connection to mimic a game console use the Neo Geo AES - it's what I'm planning to do! Inline 8 DIN female connectors are easy to obtain, and will allow for a "wire" out solution like the original consoles had for RF.

[RGB32E]

The downside is that using Genesis cables means components (resistors/capacitors) will need to be on the RGB output cables so they'll pretty much have to be SCART output only for RGB out, but that's not a problem given that I use SCART-to-BNC and SCART-to-XRGB cables for my two gaming setups (a BVM and an XRGB-mini). And the 2600RGB will need to be modified appropriately.

Thoughts?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07So_lJQyqw

[darcagn]

Tim hit the nail on the head with his explanation you linked. If you want to connect to a XRGB-mini, you can use a real off the shelf cable, or one of the SCART cables he sells on his site.

Problem with that is that I can only use that off-the-shelf cable to connect an XRGB-mini, if I want to use my BVM (and I will likely want to use both at different times) then I need a separate cable. And if I want to use composite sync for sync then I lose the ability to use composite video for situations in which I take the console elsewhere (as unlikely as that may be).

It's one thing to double up a SHVC-010 style cable with the NESRGB without component removal, it's another thing to use a Genesis cable. I have to SMH every time I see someone's brilliant idea to use the MD2/SG2 pin out.

I'm aware of what the pinout is for both the MD2/SG2 you linked and the MD1/SG1 that I am talking about using. Like I said, "the 2600RGB will need to be modified appropriately" i.e. I can do the necessary component removal (I did with the NESRGB already, after all).

To repeat what has already been stated, the Neo Geo AES pin out is a good alternative to the 8MDIN as no "unacceptable" components are involved.

What's unacceptable for Tim to use for a general purpose kit might be completely acceptable for me in my personal setup, though. I'm in no way saying that I think Tim should have used the Genesis cable as the basis for his kit.

Heck, even a 10 pin mini din (Sega Saturn) would be great - enough pins for RGBS, S-Video, Composite, and two audio, with no unacceptable parts!

The thought had crossed my mind for a short moment but it's impossible to find female 10-pin mini-DIN connectors. I haven't tried looking for any myself but I've known people who've tried to no avail. I do have some dead Saturns that I could harvest one from, though, but I think I'd feel awful doing that when there are other alternatives and nothing particularly special about that connector.

To use the term "off the shelf" is a misnomer given the consoles involved and the many cable variations and configurations. Given that NTSC and PAL consoles can have different external components added to the respective cables, it only complicates using what is referred to as "off the shelf" even further, not to mention the wide range of build quality. Official game console RGB cables that do not have extra components end up being relatively pricy when sold on eBay, so that doesn't help that goal.

Sure, trust me, I get that, I've been doing this long enough and own a wide array of different RGB cables for different RGB-capable consoles. I practically know the SCART pinout variations for all of the major consoles by heart at this point.

Hence, if you want a 8 pin DIN connection to mimic a game console use the Neo Geo AES - it's what I'm planning to do! Inline 8 DIN female connectors are easy to obtain, and will allow for a "wire" out solution like the original consoles had for RF.

I don't disagree with you there, the Neo Geo AES pinout is indeed a good alternative, and IMO is the connector Tim should have based his kits on (I can't understand from his page why he didn't do that in the end anyway), but my personal reason against it is that I don't own one and don't ever plan on owning one, I want to consider all my options here before I decide to use a cable type that I have no re-use for. That and Genesis cables are much, much more common around here than Neo Geo AES cables. I can get in my car right now and go to the store and buy a Genesis composite cable, for example, but I can't say the same for the Neo Geo AES. Hell, I've never actually known a single person locally who's owned a Neo Geo AES, nor have I ever seen one in a store, or heck, nor have I actually ever seen the console in real life at all.

[ApolloBoy]

I can get in my car right now and go to the store and buy a Genesis composite cable, for example, but I can't say the same for the Neo Geo AES.

Funny you say that because the AES can use a model 1 Genesis/SMS composite cable.

Also, I just ordered a 2600RGB yesterday morning so I'm really looking forward to see how this compares to S-video (which will be blown out of the water I'm sure).

[darcagn]

I can get in my car right now and go to the store and buy a Genesis composite cable, for example, but I can't say the same for the Neo Geo AES.

Funny you say that because the AES can use a model 1 Genesis/SMS composite cable.

Ha, I didn't even think of that, if it's not fully pinned.

[RGB32E]

Tim hit the nail on the head with his explanation you linked. If you want to connect to a XRGB-mini, you can use a real off the shelf cable, or one of the SCART cables he sells on his site.

Problem with that is that I can only use that off-the-shelf cable to connect an XRGB-mini, if I want to use my BVM (and I will likely want to use both at different times) then I need a separate cable. And if I want to use composite sync for sync then I lose the ability to use composite video for situations in which I take the console elsewhere (as unlikely as that may be).

There's nothing wrong with having a separate cable! Complicating an install to conform to a proprietary cable is just... inane. You can always mount an industry standard RCA cable for composite video, or add a switch for that pin. I'm not saying you have to use the 8MDIN, just you shouldn't use that as justification. The Famicom-PA board is the only instance where I use a 8MDIN as an output.

It's one thing to double up a SHVC-010 style cable with the NESRGB without component removal, it's another thing to use a Genesis cable. I have to SMH every time I see someone's brilliant idea to use the MD2/SG2 pin out.

I'm aware of what the pinout is for both the MD2/SG2 you linked and the MD1/SG1 that I am talking about using. Like I said, "the 2600RGB will need to be modified appropriately" i.e. I can do the necessary component removal (I did with the NESRGB already, after all).

It's just a bad practice to remove those parts. They're supposed to be in the circuit to begin with. Trying to mimic the "cost cutting" decision Sega made with the Genesis and Master System is just backwards! The parts to make many different cables are out there if you actually look for them and cost less than you make them out to be. Ultimately, by going with a Sega conforming pin out, you're perpetuating bad decisions (in retrospect) of the past.

To repeat what has already been stated, the Neo Geo AES pin out is a good alternative to the 8MDIN as no "unacceptable" components are involved.

What's unacceptable for Tim to use for a general purpose kit might be completely acceptable for me in my personal setup, though. I'm in no way saying that I think Tim should have used the Genesis cable as the basis for his kit.

Reminder: Tim sells appropriate cables. I know you are adverse to not using the same cable for every console if at all possible. Perhaps you should go with this, and mount that on all your consoles. Quality 8MDIN plugs that accommodate relatively thick cabling for that type of connector do exist...

Heck, even a 10 pin mini din (Sega Saturn) would be great - enough pins for RGBS, S-Video, Composite, and two audio, with no unacceptable parts!

The thought had crossed my mind for a short moment but it's impossible to find female 10-pin mini-DIN connectors. I haven't tried looking for any myself but I've known people who've tried to no avail. I do have some dead Saturns that I could harvest one from, though, but I think I'd feel awful doing that when there are other alternatives and nothing particularly special about that connector.

You would have found them if you'd actually searched for them. No need to harvest a PCB mount from a Sega Saturn either. Sounds like you need to take a look for yourself!

To use the term "off the shelf" is a misnomer given the consoles involved and the many cable variations and configurations. Given that NTSC and PAL consoles can have different external components added to the respective cables, it only complicates using what is referred to as "off the shelf" even further, not to mention the wide range of build quality. Official game console RGB cables that do not have extra components end up being relatively pricy when sold on eBay, so that doesn't help that goal.

Sure, trust me, I get that, I've been doing this long enough and own a wide array of different RGB cables for different RGB-capable consoles. I practically know the SCART pinout variations for all of the major consoles by heart at this point.

If that is the case, I'm even more shocked at your irreverent obsession with the Sega 9MDIN pin out!

Hence, if you want a 8 pin DIN connection to mimic a game console use the Neo Geo AES - it's what I'm planning to do! Inline 8 DIN female connectors are easy to obtain, and will allow for a "wire" out solution like the original consoles had for RF.

I don't disagree with you there, the Neo Geo AES pinout is indeed a good alternative, and IMO is the connector Tim should have based his kits on (I can't understand from his page why he didn't do that in the end anyway), but my personal reason against it is that I don't own one and don't ever plan on owning one, I want to consider all my options here before I decide to use a cable type that I have no re-use for. That and Genesis cables are much, much more common around here than Neo Geo AES cables. I can get in my car right now and go to the store and buy a Genesis composite cable, for example, but I can't say the same for the Neo Geo AES. Hell, I've never actually known a single person locally who's owned a Neo Geo AES, nor have I ever seen one in a store, or heck, nor have I actually ever seen the console in real life at all.

Actually, when it comes to the 2600RGB, it might not be such a good idea to use the AES pin out if you're connecting kit audio to it, as it appears to require dual mono for a safety feature.

http://etim.net.au/2600rgb/2600rgb_wiring.pdf

[darcagn]

There's nothing wrong with having a separate cable! Complicating an install to conform to a proprietary cable is just... inane.

What makes Sega's cable any more or less "proprietary" than the 2600RGB/NESRGB/XRGB pinout? (Or the Neo Geo AES's, for that matter) Both cables are made out of inexpensive standard parts; however, one was used by a legendary major gaming company that shipped millions of consoles worldwide whereas the other was used by an obscure Japanese video processing hardware designer and an Australian mod kit designer. And neither are industry standards.

It's just a bad practice to remove those parts. They're supposed to be in the circuit to begin with. Trying to mimic the "cost cutting" decision Sega made with the Genesis and Master System is just backwards! The parts to make many different cables are out there if you actually look for them and cost less than you make them out to be. Ultimately, by going with a Sega conforming pin out, you're perpetuating bad decisions (in retrospect) of the past.

I do know how much it costs and what it takes to build these cables. I've done 2 NESRGBs for myself and the first one I did I actually made the Tim cable design. But after I did my second one with a multi-out I cannibalized that cable for another use and no longer have it.

Is there an actual downside, electrically speaking, or quality-wise, caused by Sega's decision to put the resistors in the SCART connector? If it's functionally the same, then I don't see it as a big deal and at most a minor inconvenience during the installation process.

I know you are adverse to not using the same cable for every console if at all possible. Perhaps you should go with this, and mount that on all your consoles. Quality 8MDIN plugs that accommodate relatively thick cabling for that type of connector do exist...

I'd rather stick with the native/unmodded look where possible on my consoles, and then when the native look cannot accommodate what I want to do, then I go for re-using existing stuff (hence the idea to use the Genesis pinout).

And besides (and I know I'm reaching here) but the Atari 2600, Master System, and Genesis all share the same controller pinout. Why not all share A/V pinout too?

You would have found them if you'd actually searched for them. No need to harvest a PCB mount from a Sega Saturn either. Sounds like you need to take a look for yourself!

link?

If that is the case, I'm even more shocked at your irreverent obsession with the Sega 9MDIN pin out!

The Genesis model 1 uses a 8-pin DIN, not a 9-pin mini-DIN. But either way, I have no "obsession" with the Sega output. I'm still not yet completely sure what path I'm going to take for this install, but so far you haven't said much to convince me against it.

Actually, when it comes to the 2600RGB, it might not be such a good idea to use the AES pin out if you're connecting kit audio to it, as it appears to require dual mono for a safety feature.

http://etim.net.au/2600rgb/2600rgb_wiring.pdf

Spoiler

I saw that, and if I'm reading that correctly, it's only applicable if you're using the included 3.5mm TRS connector for audio. Remember, the Atari 2600 uses a 3.5mm TS connector for its power supply, so when this kit is installed in its default configuration it would be really easy to accidentally plug the power into the audio jack and fry the 2600RGB, so Tim is wisely including a protection feature to prevent that very realistic scenario. It appears that protection feature doesn't kick in if the ring and sleeve contacts are wired together. But if I'm not using that connector in the first place then I won't need the protection feature. That is, if I am indeed reading that correctly; hopefully Tim can perhaps chime in and confirm that for any of us who are interested in deviating from the default configuration.

[ckong]

The 2600RGB is now listed on Tim's online shop:

If you're hoping to install this in a 6 switch console, you'll have to wait until August 12th to order!

Not quite right, our PAL friends can go ahead and order it.

BTW, I can't wait to see some comparsion pictures between RGB and composite output. I have two composite modded 2600's and until now I'm quite happy with the image quality. I don't know if the RGB upgrade will do a lot for the 2600.

[darcagn]

The 2600RGB is now listed on Tim's online shop:

If you're hoping to install this in a 6 switch console, you'll have to wait until August 12th to order!

Not quite right, our PAL friends can go ahead and order it.

I think the 6-switch PAL adapter board was put up after RGB32E posted.

[collinp]

I definitely want to do something with a tethered cable replacing the RF cable for my install. That seems in the spirit of the 2600. I'm thinking of doing an inline mini-din 8 with the Framemeister pinout. Unlike Tim's suggestions I was thinking of running audio over the mini-din 8. Is this really going to cause video interference as Tim implies? Certainly the RGB21 to min-din 8 cable on the Framemeister doesn't seem to have any interference problems though it is admittedly quite short.

On a different topic, I note that there is a thru-hole near the audio circuitry on the 2600RGB. Is that for mixing in external audio?

[RGB32E]

What makes Sega's cable any more or less "proprietary" than the 2600RGB/NESRGB/XRGB pinout? (Or the Neo Geo AES's, for that matter) Both cables are made out of inexpensive standard parts; however, one was used by a legendary major gaming company that shipped millions of consoles worldwide whereas the other was used by an obscure Japanese video processing hardware designer and an Australian mod kit designer. And neither are industry standards.

*facepalm*
Given that the RGB encoders are supposed to have the resistors and capacitors connected within close proximity of it's outputs, your comparison is just absurd! Go read a datasheet! Sega HW engineers redeemed themselves with the Saturn - from a RGB standpoint at least.

Is there an actual downside, electrically speaking, or quality-wise, caused by Sega's decision to put the resistors in the SCART connector? If it's functionally the same, then I don't see it as a big deal and at most a minor inconvenience during the installation process.

Yes, there are reasons why you should not remove those parts. Tim has explained this already in this forum. Go fetch if you're curious.

Genesis RGB cables are notorious for audio buzzing due in part to missing components you like to remove:

It's all very well to say that you have a thick shield ground conductor, but what does it actually measure? The only important property of the ground connection is the resistance. It should be less than 0.3 ohms from one connector to another. You can measure it with a multimeter if you null out the test lead resistance. The ground is shared by the audio and video and any voltage drop across the ground wire caused by the (relatively high current) video signals will be picked up by the audio amplifier.

There's also the capacitance between the wires. The noise from this can be significantly reduced by placing the 75 ohm resistors in series with the R, G, B lines right where the video comes out of the console, at the mini din connector end. The capacitors can go into the SCART end. This way the video will be at 0.7 Vpp throughout the length of the cable, instead of 1.4 Vpp until right at the SCART end.

Given the size of the 9MDIN connector, adding resistors of any size inside that connector is a challenge, and could decrease reliability of the connection.

I'd rather stick with the native/unmodded look where possible on my consoles, and then when the native look cannot accommodate what I want to do, then I go for re-using existing stuff (hence the idea to use the Genesis pinout).

And besides (and I know I'm reaching here) but the Atari 2600, Master System, and Genesis all share the same controller pinout. Why not all share A/V pinout too?

Exactly this... lol. Using the Sega 8DIN or 9MDIN on anything that didn't use it originally is always a bad idea.

The thought had crossed my mind for a short moment but it's impossible to find female 10-pin mini-DIN connectors. I haven't tried looking for any myself
...
link?

This looks promising...

I have no "obsession" with the Sega output. I'm still not yet completely sure what path I'm going to take for this install, but so far you haven't said much to convince me against it.

I don't believe you! Try going with BNCs for RGBS, and RCAs for audio. It will look like one of those bling-bling JROK AES installs!


Sexy, isn't it?

I saw that, and if I'm reading that correctly, it's only applicable if you're using the included 3.5mm TRS connector for audio.

Makes sense given the type of power connector used on the Atari 2600.

[CkRtech]

Are you guys planning on doing the palette switch on your Atari or doing the controller mod?

The controller mod seems like an interesting and helpful addition, although I imagine it will feel a bit weird as you'll still have to access the Atari unit itself for the difficulty switches and do a second mod of some sort for paddle controllers. Those controllers use left and right on the DB9 for the button activation of the P1 and P2 paddles.

Perhaps a palette option on the Atari is obligatory...

[darcagn]

*facepalm*
Given that the RGB encoders are supposed to have the resistors and capacitors connected within close proximity of it's outputs, your comparison is just absurd! Go read a datasheet! Sega HW engineers redeemed themselves with the Saturn - from a RGB standpoint at least.

Yes, there are reasons why you should not remove those parts. Tim has explained this already in this forum. Go fetch if you're curious.

Genesis RGB cables are notorious for audio buzzing due in part to missing components you like to remove:

It's all very well to say that you have a thick shield ground conductor, but what does it actually measure? The only important property of the ground connection is the resistance. It should be less than 0.3 ohms from one connector to another. You can measure it with a multimeter if you null out the test lead resistance. The ground is shared by the audio and video and any voltage drop across the ground wire caused by the (relatively high current) video signals will be picked up by the audio amplifier.

There's also the capacitance between the wires. The noise from this can be significantly reduced by placing the 75 ohm resistors in series with the R, G, B lines right where the video comes out of the console, at the mini din connector end. The capacitors can go into the SCART end. This way the video will be at 0.7 Vpp throughout the length of the cable, instead of 1.4 Vpp until right at the SCART end.

Given the size of the 9MDIN connector, adding resistors of any size inside that connector is a challenge, and could decrease reliability of the connection.

Thank you. Finally real reasons not to use the Sega Genesis configuration.


I understand now why this presents problems, however, I'm a bit skeptical though that this is the real cause of the Genesis audio buzzing. Disconnecting the cable from the 9-pin mini-DIN connector and installing a separate 3.5mm TRS jack on the back of my Genesis model 2 console resulted in no noticeable reduction in buzzing in my tests. However, the previous owner of my Genesis model 2 console installed a MegaAmp replacement audio output circuit so I cannot account for any issues that may have caused.

The thought had crossed my mind for a short moment but it's impossible to find female 10-pin mini-DIN connectors. I haven't tried looking for any myself
...
link?

This looks promising...

Spoiler

It does look promising but I don't believe the pin spacing on those Pan Pacific connectors are the same as the ones on the Saturn. I could be wrong though. You can quote me saying I haven't searched for myself and provide an image and not a link to be oddly withholding all you want, but the reason I'm asking is not because I can't use Google or other search engines, but because I know other people have had issues getting this connector in the past, and Tim Worthington's page specifically says it's extremely rare and difficult to find the proper connector. Your original post implied you knew something he and I don't, so it seemed appropriate to request a link from you, no? Unfortunately the MD-10S-P is mysteriously absent from the Pan Pacific website so I'm guessing it isn't produced anymore and I can't find a datasheet.

I don't know if I've ever done anything on here to piss you off, but if I have, then I sincerely apologize. We're all here to help one another and discuss how to get the best out of our favorite consoles, so let's try to cut down on the snark, eh?

[RGB32E]

I don't know if I've ever done anything on here to piss you off, but if I have, then I sincerely apologize.

People using the Sega 8DIN and 9MDIN connections for projects is a pet peeve of mine and this is not the first time I've expressed this. Please understand.

We're all here to help one another and discuss how to get the best out of our favorite consoles

Absolutely! I wouldn't have made so many postings about my experiences if that were not the case.

so let's try to cut down on the snark, eh?

[antron]

I'm about to be "that guy" who asks for a new product in a thread about a newly released killer piece of kit.

Commodore 64 at all possible? Or 128? Being an actual computer, it's just begging for RGB.

Can't wait to order the 2600RGB.

[darcagn]

So I think I'm just going to panel-mount a bunch of connectors. I would have preferred to do it with a female pigtail coming out where the RF cable was, but since there's no "perfect" connector with the versatility in connections that I want, and I don't want a multitude of pigtails coming out of there, I might as well just go the panel-mount route. In addition, the 2600 has that space on the back that's untextured where mounting ports would look fairly stock-ish anyway.

I'll be installing the controller circuit inside the Atari because there's no reason not to, but I'll leave it off of the controller for now.

Another reason to use the default kit configuration is because none of the existing cables I have go far enough to reach my couch, and I think I'd prefer to have the Atari sit next to me when I play, so that I can operate everything on the console itself. The controller mod doesn't do everything I want to be able to do remotely, as I want to be able to turn the console on/off since this is the only way to change games on the Harmony Encore cartridge.

I'll probably mount the palette switch, 2 RCA jacks for composite video and mono audio, the S-video jack, and the RGB miniDIN to the untextured part on the back, and then I can use any lengths of cable I want for them and be able to control everything from the console on the couch.

[CkRtech]

In addition, the 2600 has that space on the back that's untextured where mounting ports would look fairly stock-ish anyway.

That was something that I was happy to see when I modded my Atari 2600 for S-Video several years back. SO much space on a flat panel's surface



I definitely recommend using Forstner drill bits for the job. I think Tim recommends a step bit. A regular twist bit can shatter the back of the 2600. I've seen it happen...

I also think perhaps going the route of the BNC connectors (as was earlier suggested) for RGBS would work. That would allow you to use a BNC cable and/or VGA cable as needed, and you could switch the sync line to CVideo by literally moving a single cable from one port to another. You could either make your CVideo out a yellow RCA plug and put an adapter on your BNC (BNC male to RCA male) if you need CVideo for sync - OR - make the composite video signal on the Atari also a BNC connector and adapt to RCA female if you ever need to run it out to a composite input.

I am still not sure if I am going to move from S-Video to RGB or not. If so, I think I may just use an HD15 (VGA) connector for video since I run all my consoles to a VGA switch.

[ApolloBoy]

I'm just going to use a panel mount 8-pin mini-DIN since I have plenty of those and I can reuse the same cable for my NESRGB-modded Famicom. As for the palette switch and extra controller functions, I'm most likely not going to bother with those. I also plan on replacing the PSU jack with a barrel tip connector so that I can use a model 1 Genesis PSU with it (which is what I use for most of my consoles).

[darcagn]

Just got a notice that my order was shipped!

[BuckoA51]

Weren't an awful lot of 2600 games designed around the inherent fuzziness of the RF signal though? I mean, when the Stella emulator introduced filters to put that all back in again, it was widely celebrated, now we're hacking RGB onto the original console and taking that out...



Honestly I prefer the RF version, even with all that noise

(likely the first and last time I ever say that, but the 2600 is a special case)

[darcagn]

Some people said that same stuff about the NES too though. NES emulators with composite-style filters exist as well. I personally vastly prefer the look of the RGB version.

Not to mention that RF is an annoying way to hook up a console these days. I can't put it through my normal video chain, and I have to set my TV up to play audio instead of feeding everything through my receiver.

[CkRtech]

I can't put it through my normal video chain, and I have to set my TV up to play audio instead of feeding everything through my receiver.

Well...you *could* modulate your RF signal externally after output from the console and run the video to your TV from the modulator and the audio directly from the console's output.

But then if you want that modulated look, why would you want the super awesome surround audio? <tapping fingers....> Although I do have to admit that Atari explosions via a home theater kinda make me giggle.

[darcagn]

Sure, but I'd rather just 2600RGB it

[zakruowrath]

Weren't an awful lot of 2600 games designed around the inherent fuzziness of the RF signal though? I mean, when the Stella emulator introduced filters to put that all back in again, it was widely celebrated, now we're hacking RGB onto the original console and taking that out...



Honestly I prefer the RF version, even with all that noise

(likely the first and last time I ever say that, but the 2600 is a special case)

I believe the 2600RGB doesn't rid of RF output completely. In fact in Tim's instructions for the 4 switch 2600 it says to keep original RF output be sure to solder back on the orange inductor variable coil. You could always hook up using composite video so the image isn't as pixel perfect as RGB but still a little fuzzy like RF.

[Smashbro29]

Why not make one for one of the later Ataris that are fully backwards compatible?

[darcagn]

Why not make one for one of the later Ataris that are fully backwards compatible?

Now I know the 7800 was talked about on the AtariAge fourms, and I'm willing to bet it would be a bit more challenging being it has two separate video processors. Maybe Tim could develop a board that does the same thing as the 2600 board with the TIA but also adds the 7800 MARIA processor on board as well and when in 7800 mode it keeps the TIA active for only sound and uses the MARIA for graphics. Sounds like it can be done, maybe in the next couple of years, one can dream

I do plan on making a 7800 version eventually. I think it is possible... I'm not about to attempt it right away. First I need some time to forget how much of a bastard these kind of mods are to develop.

[viletim]

Weren't an awful lot of 2600 games designed around the inherent fuzziness of the RF signal though? I mean, when the Stella emulator introduced filters to put that all back in again, it was widely celebrated, now we're hacking RGB onto the original console and taking that out...

The that filter in the screen shot doesn't look like Atari RF video. It's more like RGB with Vaseline smeared over the screen. Characteristics of the Atari's RF are low colour saturation, colour distortion on leading and trailing edges, and noise in the audio. At least it's true for the PAL consoles I've used. Maybe the NTSC version looks different?

I believe the 2600RGB doesn't rid of RF output completely. In fact in Tim's instructions for the 4 switch 2600 it says to keep original RF output be sure to solder back on the orange inductor variable coil. You could always hook up using composite video so the image isn't as pixel perfect as RGB but still a little fuzzy like RF.

It doesn't prevent the RF from working, but there may be a bit more work required to install the board without reducing the quality of the RF output. First you will need to hold down the palette switch when switching the console on to disable the 2600RGB video outputs. The noise from the switching power supply might also get into the RF signal. If this is a problem the only solution is to put the linear 7805 back in place with a larger heat sink and switch to a larger power adapter (such as the one from the Mega Drive).