Professional/Broadcast monitor hunting.

[Guspaz]

The TVL on the L5 is a bit high, but it's the only PVM that supports anything higher than 480i, so...

[FinalBaton]

Sony KV-20XBR for $25 in Québec City :

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-tvs/ville-de-que ... nFlag=true

One of the very rare TVs with an RGB input released in North America. Supposed to be a good tube too

[Ikaruga11]

Sony KV-20XBR for $25 in Québec City :

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-tvs/ville-de-que ... nFlag=true

One of the very rare TVs with an RGB input released in North America. Supposed to be a good tube too

Eww

[Einzelherz]

Do it, Baton!

[FinalBaton]

Do it, Baton!

I'm afraid I'll just give up on the RGB cable project though
and end up with a CRT that won't see any use

[Einzelherz]

32FS320 in Staten Island

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 2175691842

[accaris]

Ohio: Sony PVM-14N1U spotted. No RGB, but could be a good little s-video monitor.
https://www.govdeals.com/index.cfm?fa=M ... cctid=4821

[Einzelherz]

25" Sony Profeel on eBay in Daytona. If I still lived in central FL I'd totally go check it out, though I think they're asking too much.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 2235190433

[Sid]

Hardly specific enough (it just states "Canada"), but this listing offers two PVM-20M4U displays at $150 each - http://www.kitmondo.com/sony-pvm-20m4u- ... /ref296811

I imagine that the location would be narrowed if viewing having signed up. I'm in Australia, so no reason to sign up. The last two of these I saw sell in Oz incidentally went for AU$490 and AU$560. A BVM-A20F1M sold recently for AU$960. Some big dollars being thrown about considering what the state of play was only months ago.

[buttersoft]

The TVL on the L5 is a bit high, but it's the only PVM that supports anything higher than 480i, so...

Not quite true. There's at least one medical model, but it's rarer than moondust. The... 20M7MDE, or something? I think it has a paler case, too. Possibly a rebadge apart from that though, but I have no idea. I'm actually not sure if it's multiformat of 31kHz or what, but from what I understand it'll do 480p.

The last two of these I saw sell in Oz incidentally went for AU$490 and AU$560. A BVM-A20F1M sold recently for AU$960. Some big dollars being thrown about considering what the state of play was only months ago.

Geez, I'm in Aus too and I didn't realise things had gotten so bad. Glad I got onto the sets I did for cheap.

[Ed Oscuro]

480p is 31KHz. Higher resolutions are at higher scanrates but for some reason that's often not specified or mentioned.

[niall]

The last two of these I saw sell in Oz incidentally went for AU$490 and AU$560. A BVM-A20F1M sold recently for AU$960. Some big dollars being thrown about considering what the state of play was only months ago.

Geez, I'm in Aus too and I didn't realise things had gotten so bad. Glad I got onto the sets I did for cheap.

Yeah that BVM-A went for a nice price! I managed to pick up 2 * BVM-20F1 plus 2 * BVM-D20 for a total of AUD$450 a couple of years ago, the owner thought they were all broken but they fired up fine for me after I got them shipped down from Brisbane to Melbourne. 1 tube has slight damage as some idiot put tape across the glass, and the glue has reacted with it, but other than that they're all in pretty good condition particularly the D20s!

[nem]

1 tube has slight damage as some idiot put tape across the glass, and the glue has reacted with it, but other than that they're all in pretty good condition particularly the D20s!

What kind of tape reacts with glass?

Does BVMs have some kind of antireflective coating on them like arcade monitors? You sure you can't just buff it out?

[Ikaruga11]

If there is an anti-glare coating, don't buff it off or try removing it with chemicals. You'll just damage it further. Instead, try taking the BVM apart and peeling the anti-glare film off as one full sheet.

[Einzelherz]

Low bid Sony Profeel in Knoxville Tennessee

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 2737188725

[nem]

If there is an anti-glare coating, don't buff it off or try removing it with chemicals. You'll just damage it further. Instead, try taking the BVM apart and peeling the anti-glare film off as one full sheet.

As someone who has buffed out anti-glare coating, I can tell you there's no way you can just peel it off.

There's more discussion related to this on Arcade Otaku:

http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?t=1251
http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?t=2448

[Einzelherz]

I believe the good general is right on this one though. I'm pretty sure I've seen that the Sony monitors have a grey film adhered to the screen.

[Shoryukev]

I believe the good general is right on this one though. I'm pretty sure I've seen that the Sony monitors have a grey film adhered to the screen.

My PVM-14N6U has a little scratch about 3/4 of an inch long on the right edge of the screen.....I'll have to take the front bezel off and see if it has a film on it. If it does I can probably peel it off and get rid of it. That would make my day if it did LOL

[Ikaruga11]

I believe the good general is right on this one though. I'm pretty sure I've seen that the Sony monitors have a grey film adhered to the screen.

I can't say whether BVMs and PVMs have a sprayed-on anti-glare coating or an actual plastic sheet, but my Sony KD-34XBR960 had the sheet of anti-glare plastic. When I got it, there was extreme corrosion to the plastic that showed visible rainbow scratches and the picture was very dim. The set was pretty much unwatchable until I opened up the CRT and peeled the sheet off myself. It all came off as one big yellowed and scratched sheet of plastic that the previous owner damaged severely by using ammonia-based cleaners. Afterwards all of the rainbow scratches were gone and I could immediately see a huge increase in clarity, brightness and colors. The glass of the tube screen was basically pristine. Well worth it.

I wouldn't take the AG film off if it isn't damaged though. The higher clarity and more vibrant colors may not be worth the added reflections and glare unless you have strict control over all ambient light.

[tacoguy64]

I believe the good general is right on this one though. I'm pretty sure I've seen that the Sony monitors have a grey film adhered to the screen.

I can't say whether BVMs and PVMs have a sprayed-on anti-glare coating or an actual plastic sheet, but my Sony KD-34XBR960 had the sheet of anti-glare plastic. When I got it, there was extreme corrosion to the plastic that showed visible rainbow scratches and the picture was very dim. The set was pretty much unwatchable until I opened up the CRT and peeled the sheet off myself. It all came off as one big yellowed and scratched sheet of plastic that the previous owner damaged severely by using ammonia-based cleaners. Afterwards all of the rainbow scratches were gone and I could immediately see a huge increase in clarity, brightness and colors. The glass of the tube screen was basically pristine. Well worth it.

I wouldn't take the AG film off if it isn't damaged though. The higher clarity and more vibrant colors may not be worth the added reflections and glare unless you have strict control over all ambient light.

This right here. Unless you got a light controlled room it is highly advisable to to leave the anti glare protector intact.

[Michael Ikonomidis]

I believe the good general is right on this one though. I'm pretty sure I've seen that the Sony monitors have a grey film adhered to the screen.

I can't say whether BVMs and PVMs have a sprayed-on anti-glare coating or an actual plastic sheet, but my Sony KD-34XBR960 had the sheet of anti-glare plastic. When I got it, there was extreme corrosion to the plastic that showed visible rainbow scratches and the picture was very dim. The set was pretty much unwatchable until I opened up the CRT and peeled the sheet off myself. It all came off as one big yellowed and scratched sheet of plastic that the previous owner damaged severely by using ammonia-based cleaners. Afterwards all of the rainbow scratches were gone and I could immediately see a huge increase in clarity, brightness and colors. The glass of the tube screen was basically pristine. Well worth it.

I wouldn't take the AG film off if it isn't damaged though. The higher clarity and more vibrant colors may not be worth the added reflections and glare unless you have strict control over all ambient light.

This guy tore the cover off of his b/c it was scratched:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPbDvqFdjG4

Around the 2:50 mark

[SamIAm]

Speaking of anti-glare coating, I recently picked up a Victor DT-V1710C with a patch of the anti-glare coating missing. It's not the kind where you can peel off a film, either; it's properly bonded with the glass itself. Over the past several days, I've been battling to get the rest off and make the picture consistent.

I tried alcohol, acetone, vinegar, baking soda, and lots of mild cleaners to no effect. Even heavy-duty stuff with sodium hydroxide (lye) and hydrochloric acid in it doesn't do much. I can't seem to find anything locally with ammonia, which some say works, and the "stove cleaners" you can find here in Japan aren't quite the same as the spray-on oven cleaners that people say is the most effective.

Japanese netizens recommend a windshield polish called キイロビン, which I might check out later.

What I have succeeded with, however, is mineral oil contact spray and hard scrubbing with my fingernails through a piece of tissue. I don't know what is going on chemically - it could be that the other stuff has compromised the coating, and the oil is just helping things along - but the coating doesn't come off when I'm scrubbing with anything else. I've got about 50% of it removed this way.

Anyway, I've learned that most TVs also have a super-thin anti-static coating as well. I think that mine is coming off with the anti-glare layer, and the effect is that I get visible static sparks when I turn the monitor off and on. Maybe it will level out once I get the rest of the coating off. In the meantime, I'll have to be careful.

Would it be a good idea to put an exposed ground wire near the screen outside the visible range to give the excess static a place to go? Or would that be colossally stupid for some reason?

[buttersoft]

Would it be a good idea to put an exposed ground wire near the screen outside the visible range to give the excess static a place to go? Or would that be colossally stupid for some reason?

I've been thinking about this, and I'm not sure it'll be much help. Glass is a good insulator, so even tapping one side of the tube won't affect a huge area. I don't *think* it'll hurt anything, because the front of the tube isn't directly connected to anything else or it wouldn't be building up the static. (Though being an insulator, it wouldn't matter if there *was* something connected to it.) There also won't be much charge there, but static does get to really high voltages. And the dag on that tube, and the grounding wire, is probably at earth potential already. Certainly it would be on a PVM/BVM. And the tube is already pretty close to that.

I guess it might do something bad to the grille/mask (I'm not sure what that set uses) but I wouldn't think so.

Where are the sparks going, exactly? How did this anti-static coating work?

[SamIAm]

Hey, thanks for another reply.

I've been thinking about this, and I'm not sure it'll be much help. Glass is a good insulator, so even tapping one side of the tube won't affect a huge area. I don't *think* it'll hurt anything, because the front of the tube isn't directly connected to anything else or it wouldn't be building up the static. (Though being an insulator, it wouldn't matter if there *was* something connected to it.) There also won't be much charge there, but static does get to really high voltages. And the dag on that tube, and the grounding wire, is probably at earth potential already. Certainly it would be on a PVM/BVM. And the tube is already pretty close to that.

I guess it might do something bad to the grille/mask (I'm not sure what that set uses) but I wouldn't think so.

Where are the sparks going, exactly? How did this anti-static coating work?

If you google CRT anti-static coating, you can find lots of patents related to it. Here's one. I think it's just an extremely thin, transparent layer of conductive particles.

Interestingly, the sparks I'm getting like to go to a bit of the coating on the very edge that I haven't polished out yet. At least, I think that's what's happening. It probably makes its way back to ground through there. What will happen if I ever truly eliminate the pathway out, I can't say. The mask around the screen seems to be plastic.

The sparks are large and loud - usually just one happens per power-up or power-down. I wouldn't want one to hit me, or any sensitive equipment.

I haven't had time to mess with it, but assuming that the metal case itself is grounded, it would be very easy to run a wire from one of the screws to the front of the screen. If it won't hurt anything to discharge the static that way, I might leave it there for peace of mind.

[buttersoft]

The sparks are large and loud - usually just one happens per power-up or power-down. I wouldn't want one to hit me, or any sensitive equipment.

That sounds kinda unnerving, but might not be too harmful. Where does the anti-static coating connect to? Ground? If so, using a ground wire should do the same job. It really sounds like a fair amount of charge, in relative terms, if it's trying to arc.

[SamIAm]

That sounds kinda unnerving, but might not be too harmful. Where does the anti-static coating connect to? Ground? If so, using a ground wire should do the same job. It really sounds like a fair amount of charge, in relative terms, if it's trying to arc.

Yep, it's definitely arcing a bit. It's nothing too terribly dramatic, but it's enough that the arc is maybe 2 centimeters.

That patent page is quite a chore to read through, given the way it's written, but here are a couple of key sentences:

The first inner antistatic layer 34 is applied to the faceplate's outer surface so as to be in contact with a grounded implosion protection band disposed about the faceplate. In another embodiment, conducting tape may be used to electrically couple the first inner antistatic layer 34 to the implosion protection band for the purpose of grounding the antistatic layer.

...

There has thus been shown an antiglare/antistatic coating for a CRT applied to the outer surface of the CRT's faceplate for safely discharging electrostatic charge to ground and reducing random scattering of light reflected from the faceplate for improved video image viewing.

Seems like a good sign to me.

[tacoguy64]

Bang and Olufsen Avant 32 spotted here in Portland

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ele/5916479032.html

I don't know much about the monitor, but from the little i searched is that these are 100hz tv's which I don't think play nice with NTSC consoles
It is also seems like a 16:9 format instead of 4:3 so it stretches out all 4:3 content.
Like all B&O they have SCART inputs.
And finally, how rare is it to catch these units out in the states?

For $400 with no remote seems a bit to rich for me. I might just check it out just to see one in person

[FinalBaton]

Ok... I shouldn't be doing this. I should'nt share that treasure I just discovered, but instead should keep it to myself... buuuuuut, since I already have a pretty darn good RGB monitor for my consoles, I'll let other people have a chance at acquiring one.

There's a 17" 750 TVL RGB monitor up for sale in Montreal right now:

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-electronique/lon ... 1225036960

And get this : it only costs 60$. That's a total frickin' steal. And yes, it does come with the RGB/component input card.





The person who ends up buying this better invite me over for dinner and an evening of gaming

[tacoguy64]

Hey buddy, pick that up for me and send me that RGB card

[Einzelherz]

I'd pick it up for tate in a heartbeat. That's why I bought my 150CGU.