XRGB Mini Noise Issue

[Skips]

OK, Josh did hype it up a bit too much at times

You think? Hype train at warp speed!

Guilty as charged . Not unwarranted though, I still standby my assertions that it produces the most CRT-like picture you can get in a non-CRT set, the insane price is just icing on the cake. No LCD blue-blacks, and it has a better viewing angle than the 19" Viewsonic CRT Im currently typing this on! I know the 288p issue is a big negative for you guys across the pond, obviously its a non-issue for me. For anyone who doesnt have or want an external processor and can deal with ~32-48ms of lag I think its without a doubt one of the best sets out there for everything but 1080p.

RGB32E all I can say is dont knock it till youve tried it, viewing it side x side with light cannon LEDs on a showroom floor doesnt count!

Skips, you mentioned your set doesnt display the emulated 240p scanlines properly, sounds like a 720 or 768p set-- what exactly are you using?

I am using a Sharp LC-39LE551U. Thing is a great TV with very little to no noticeable ghosting and very little input lag (cant feel it).

Also in this day and age that blueish back stuff with LCD's is not correct unless you are buying a cheap HDTV. Every TV I have had from the past few years (including this one) have had really dark blacks (to the point where the TV looks powered off in those areas). I don't think I have had an LCD with bluish blacks since 2008 or so. Even my old Sharp Aquos from 2010 had great looking blacks.

[Josh128]

I agree the newer ones are much better, but still in every LCD Ive personally seen I can still detect some amount of slight "blueness", usually more apparent in dark scenes, which gets progressively worse if I dont sit directly in front of the set. Its most apparent to me in controlled (dim) room lighting.

[Skips]

I agree the newer ones are much better, but still in every LCD Ive personally seen I can still detect some amount of slight "blueness", usually more apparent in dark scenes, which gets progressively worse if I dont sit directly in front of the set. Its most apparent to me in controlled (dim) room lighting.

The current one I have does not do it unless I turn the brightness up a bit too high (which you don't do anyway because it washes out colors). I'm about 3 feet from it (use it as a PC monitor). Mine of course though is not an edge lit TV so it is able to get a bit darker blacks. Blacks on the NES over the XRGB mini were a good solid black, so dark the interference could not be seen in the blacks (like other people say theirs does show).

[axlblazeadam]

I'm also having this problem. Since this thread is a bit older, maybe a solution has been found?

I've tried:

* changing all the settings (brightness/gamma/adlevel)
* using different XRGB SCART IN cables (with powered sync)
* changing the original PSU to a more expensive one (which doesn't require the stepdown converter)
* ruling out cables on different consoles, all consoles have the same issue

All solid backgrounds have noise/jitter. I've included some screenshots from Earthworm Jim where you can clearly see it in the green areas.

Also i got these three weird bands running through the screen when running various tests with 240p suite.

I really hope there's a solution, it's so distracting.

[FBX]

I've spotted the noise in every input on my Framemeister. Ste Kulov over at RetrovisionHD claims it is actually caused by bad coefficients used in the conversion of the analog signals to digital format. He wasn't able to see any improvement when trying clean power supplies, but RGB32E did with his, so YMMV I guess in this case.

[Voliko]

I didn't see this thread when it was first posted. I'm surprised I haven't seen more people talk about this issue, it was definitely noticeable to me on multiple setups as well. I hadn't seen anyone mentioning it around the time I bought mine, from the limited discussion there was so far back then anyway.

[axlblazeadam]

Glad to hear i'm not the only one with this problem!

Did anyone ever contacted Micomsoft about this?

[Chocograph]

It's the one reason why I've been on and off in the SNES revision thread asking about amps and resistors and crap....the new official japanese PSU I got on ebay really did the trick and it's barely noticable for me now but I'm still thinking about changing all the caps in my 1chip. I'm not sure it would make any difference. Even without DNR I have an almost completely clean snes image now. I used to see the noise on green in SMW but now it's just gone.

[axlblazeadam]

the new official japanese PSU I got on ebay really did the trick and it's barely noticable for me now

Did you use the one that came with the Framemeister or is there a new official PSU in existence?

I used the original that came with the Framemeister itself (with a stepdown converter that is, i live in Europe) and even that gave me noise. I replaced it with a good 5V that doesn't need a stepdown converter, but still noise.

[Chocograph]

Oh GOD, I'm sorry. I meant my new SNES PSU.

[FBX]

Oh GOD, I'm sorry. I meant my new SNES PSU.

Yeah, the noise we're discussing here is completely independent of the console and comes from the Framemeister itself. Once you see it, it cannot be unseen.

[axlblazeadam]

Oh GOD, I'm sorry. I meant my new SNES PSU.

Yeah, the noise we're discussing here is completely independent of the console and comes from the Framemeister itself. Once you see it, it cannot be unseen.

Yes
I see it on all my consoles... i'm doubting this could be fixed by a firmware upgrade too.

[bonzo.bits]

It's the one reason why I've been on and off in the SNES revision thread asking about amps and resistors and crap....the new official japanese PSU I got on ebay really did the trick and it's barely noticable for me now but I'm still thinking about changing all the caps in my 1chip. I'm not sure it would make any difference. Even without DNR I have an almost completely clean snes image now. I used to see the noise on green in SMW but now it's just gone.

I was trying to fix the same problem with SMW last night. It's prominent for me on green backgrounds and white also. Was thinking of paying the big $$$ for a fully shielded SCART cable from retro console accessories, but maybe a new PSU would help.....

I have the SD2SNES also, and don't notice any problems on the menu using a SNES Mini with RGB mod (the 4 wire version, no amp).

Another thing that puzzles me, out of my four current SNES SCART cables, the PAL one gives the cleanest picture by far. Given that this has no caps, and resistors in addition to those added by the mod, shouldn't this be the least likely cable to work....?

[RGB32E]

I was trying to fix the same problem with SMW last night. It's prominent for me on green backgrounds and white also. Was thinking of paying the big $$$ for a fully shielded SCART cable from retro console accessories, but maybe a new PSU would help.....

I have the SD2SNES also, and don't notice any problems on the menu using a SNES Mini with RGB mod (the 4 wire version, no amp).

Another thing that puzzles me, out of my four current SNES SCART cables, the PAL one gives the cleanest picture by far. Given that this has no caps, and resistors in addition to those added by the mod, shouldn't this be the least likely cable to work....?

Pictures is in the pudding?! What cables are you using?

[bonzo.bits]

I was trying to fix the same problem with SMW last night. It's prominent for me on green backgrounds and white also. Was thinking of paying the big $$$ for a fully shielded SCART cable from retro console accessories, but maybe a new PSU would help.....

I have the SD2SNES also, and don't notice any problems on the menu using a SNES Mini with RGB mod (the 4 wire version, no amp).

Another thing that puzzles me, out of my four current SNES SCART cables, the PAL one gives the cleanest picture by far. Given that this has no caps, and resistors in addition to those added by the mod, shouldn't this be the least likely cable to work....?

Pictures is in the pudding?! What cables are you using?

I have one PAL cable with four resistors, this is the one that gives the best PQ. When looking closely flaws can be seen (some cross-hatching, noise) but overall it's really clear, bright and smooth. Unsure of which type of sync is used, but the mini is wired for csync. I'll ul a pic later on.

I have two NTSC cables, one with three caps which gives a fuzzy and flickery picture.

The four-cap cable is a slightly better PQ with dialled-down versions of the issues of the three-cap. Has a resistor across two of the scart pins also.

[bonzo.bits]

These are the pics of the cable, which I inaccurately described as a PAL cable with resistors. Only has one resistor across the pins and I didn't lable the cables when I purchased, so can't say what it was sold as.

Error code NUB101 - user doesn't know how to post an image.

I tried to copy a dropbox image url between img tags but it doesn't work. Is there a nub tute somewhere

Nm, copied one of the posts above, should work now...



And from the other side.

[Chocograph]

Changing the snes power supply to an official one from a super cheap chinese one made a huge difference to me. It's pretty much gone. I see it on the purple backgrounds in the first megaman X stage and...that's pretty much it.

[axlblazeadam]

Sorry for the bump, but it still baffles me that everyone is looking for the perfect picture for their consoles, but somehow neglect this noise issue with the Framemeister.

I see it in all the video captures from the XRGB that people post, and then being anal about perfect pixel uniformity, overscan, scrolling shimmer, colours, scanlines but don't talk about all the noise that shows up in the solid colour areas.

It's such a big deal! Is there any solution for fixing this inside the Framemeister yet? Somebody talked about the horrible A/D conversion that could be fixed by changing the hardware?

[austin532]

Whatever flaws the Mini has at this point, I think we are stuck with them until the next version comes out. It's pretty obvious with the lack of any major updates from Micomsoft that they can't be fixed.

[Chocograph]

I've had the benq xl2420t since 2012 but had to get a new monitor after I threw my usb cable at it and killed a few pixels. I made a nice hole in the monitor. So I ordered the 1ms 144hz xl2411z. Input lag has always been most important to me and I noticed an improvement over 2ms immediately playing a GBC emulator. I wanted to test more games and I just now installed RetroArch, BSNES accuracy and tried a few games with different shaders...yeah....I could totally do without the framemeister. I'm probably going to play more games on emulators now. I've used emulators for years but always hated the input lag. Not so much anymore.