shmups.system11.org

Thanks! Ferrite looks similar to the one I have now, so I'll leave that in and instead replace the cap. The 100n cap I used is too large (0805), and it's hard to tell if anything is being shorted or has bad soldering if it's towering/leaning over the other components. 3 fit in a line just looks nice

Well it's a 0 ohm resistor at r59 so the pin on the ic that connects to r59 and both sides of r59, should all be continuous. As long as you can make the cap connect to any of those points and to the ferrite bead, you can then use some wire or something to make the rest of the points continuous with the cap. It might not be the most elegant solution, but can at least get you up and running.

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Hello again. I recently installed the clock generator on my GBS 8200 and so far so good. I also recently installed a circuit with a THS7374 in my Supergun with the idea of ​​normalizing the video signals and that my Neo Geo MVS 1F will finally work but it did not. Although I get colors and image I know that something is wrong with the synchronization since the video is pausing at times. And another strange thing is that the video circuit that I put in my Supergun has options for Sync TTL or 75 Ohms, the only one that gets an image is with TTL Sync, although as I said it freezes every second and in every transition. But with Sync in 75 Ohms it is not possible to have an image, it just occasionally appears garbage on the screen or some Random image of the game but the synchronization is lost immediately. Someone will know what else I can do with this, the truth is strange since Neo Geo is the only system that is causing me problems. Everything else is excellent and I have seen on Youtube people with Neo Geo PCBs that do work and I read that apparently there are differences between the signals of each board and that is why they have these problems. I hope someone knows more or has been able to start their Neo Geo MVS.

Note: As an additional note, I want to comment that the video circuit works perfectly well since I can connect the video output of my Supergun to a device that converts RGBS into YPbPr that I use on a consumer TV without major problem.

Does anyone know if this Saturn cable works fine on GBS CFW ?

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/3287808868 ... 63e3u0dnnQ

Hi.

The cable that you show us brings out RGBS and if it is compatible it is but you don't think so. I mean, you can't take those RCAs and connect them to the component input of the GBS because it won't work. If you are already there, better buy a female Scart and assemble a cable from Scart to the RGBS input of the GBS.

Hey, I figured I'd give this thread a shot as I already created an issue on the GBS-C project Github but I was pointed in this direction.

Mind you, I've already searched this forum and THE GOOGLE quite a bit before I made this post. But I might have not used the correct search terms so forgive me if I missed it.

My setup:
--GBS 8200 with the typical GBS-C setup and includes the required and a lot of the optional mods
--Cables in: HD Retrovision and known good component cables have been tested
--Video out: An Active/Powered VGA to HDMI adapter made by FOINNEX. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0712 ... =1&fpw=alm
--Connecting to: 2019 TCL Series 4 TV and Micomsoft Internal capture card (both show the same issue)
--Power Supplies/cables: I have tried only 5v USB PSU's rated at 2amps or above. The ones I have tried include these guys, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0794 ... =1&fpw=alm, official Samsung charger, official Apple charger, official Android charger, Amazon Basics charger and also a power strip 5v USB plug. I have also tried multiple USB cables as well. And this goes for powering the GBS-8200 and the VGA to HDMI adapter.

My issue is that with 480p Preset and 480p only I get diagonal wavy lines going through my image. However, when I switch to either 720p or 960p, those lines go away entirely.

https://youtu.be/RNmey20n80o

You can see my issue in this Youtube video. If you watched from the beginning, it starts out at 480p and in the video it's not as pronounced as it is in person, but you can clearly see them when I pause the game and you look at the black bar. I then change to 960p and the issue goes away entirely. If you go to 95 seconds in you can clearly see the issue.

This is an odd issue because usually when you see something like this it would affect everything fairly equally. But in my case it is only 480p. So that leads me to believe that something happens with 480p that does not happen with the other resolutions. Maybe it's my VGA to HDMI adapter? But, again, it's odd that it would only be 480p. Is there something the GBS, the arduino or some feature within the software is doing at 480p that doesn't happen at other resolutions?

Hopefully somebody here can shed some light on the situation as it's a bit baffling to me.

Thank you!

You can use that to feed either the 8-pin input or the vga input. You would need to make a cable though - female rca to the 8-pin input or the vga input. Sync (yellow) from that cable goes to the h. sync pin of either input.

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@amerika - I had the diagonal wavy lines when I first got my GBS, what made it go away was using a better PSU. I know you've tried a bunch of USB PSUs so not sure if it would help but maybe a dedicated/wall wart one might have better noise filtering?

You can also try some of the mods, like the copper tape over the ram traces, in the video below if you've done all the recommended ones on the Github. I think they were deemed unnecessary once the control mod came about though.

Rama, would be possible to edit the slots names in some way? I would be like to rename "slot 1" to "Mega Drive" for example... is that possible?

Copper tape can still be helpful for a noisy gbs. I have applied it to multiple noisy gbs-8200s and it always results in improvement, where nothing else worked.

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Did you try changing SDRAM clock ?

When playing a SNES > SCART > SCART2RGB > GBS > OSSC I get periods of bad jitter, black screen, and wavy lines. All technical terms I realize, but I was able to capture the debug log when this happens. Can anybody tell me what's happening?

. (debug) ign. length: 0x61
. (debug) ign. length: 0x62

.*** (debug) ign. length: 0x51

. (debug) ign. length: 0x61
. (debug) ign. length: 0x62

Have you done the dejitter mod?

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Yes in March

What does SCART2RGB do ? Does it have a sync stripper ?
In that case it might send H+V sync and GBSC doesn't cope well with it

Sorry, complete brain fart, it's not SCART2RGB it's the Retrotink RGB2COMP.

viewtopic.php?p=1324157#p1324157

Not sure what RGB2Comp uses as its source for sync.
HD retrovision cables use sync-on-composite, when I modded my snes (using HDRV cables) I had to use H-PLL post coast as mentionned in the linked post.

sorry to ask but I'm just wondering if the mcu refit kit is necessary for good or only with pal-based systems?

been trying to read what I could for quite a while but I'm not sure if its just me or it seem like most of the refit are only for pal owners (versus ntsc for eg me)

many thanks

Has anyone tried Antonio’s VGA to S-video adapter with a 15khz signal from their GBS?

https://www.antoniovillena.es/store/pro ... o-adapter/

The website suggests that it might accept CSYNC only rather than seperate H+V sync (it advises mister users to enable CSYNC which is why I’m making the inference).

Yeah, you could just split the wire that carries power to the clockgen board and add an inline toggle switch that connects/disconnects power from it. Or, alternatively, use a DPDT toggle switch for disconnecting the SDA and SCL lines from the clockgen board. These aren't particularly fancy solutions but they should get the job done.

Thanks those are good suggestions. I'm still wondering if it's confirmed that clockgen causes this issue (signal drops during resolution changes) in general, or whether it may be something specific to slayrval's setup. I got my GBS Control with clockgen recently but won't have a flat panel to test it with myself for a while.

Believe it was already said, but it's not the clockgen mod.

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Rama actually answered this for me a while ago. Quote is below, full context is here: https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?p=1419717

That being said, on some displays and setups you might not get dropouts anyway even when the clockgen is enabled; it's certainly more a little more stable than a linedoubler or say, the OSSC on its own (and it works great when partnered with them!)

If I feed my Retrotink2X running in 2X mode into my GBS, games with lots of 480i/240p transitions like Star Wars Rogue Squadron have zero dropouts, even though they would drop out if run in passthrough mode or connected directly to my display.

Has anyone else experienced this, https://imgur.com/gallery/Am0E3Zd. Not sure how well the video shows it but in motion objects appear to have a double vision effect almost like a combing artifact but in a progressive signal, I’m running 480p through Xbox component into a version 5 gbs8200 with a clock gen installed and gbs control, and all power supply bypass capacitors have been added, going into a Sony multiscan 100sx. The effect is also noticeable on other displays. What can be done to remedy this?

I’m exited to add GBS Control with the clock generator to my 8200 but am still unsure of some things to components to add during the build despite doing my best to find information.

For the newer gen 8200 this page seems to note to just add the electrolytic 22uF capacitor but I still notice some people talking about adding the bead and capacitor at R58 which is instructed for the older gen 8200: https://github.com/ramapcsx2/gbs-contro ... 0-Variants

Also came across a post mentioning replacing the caps at C33 and C35 with different values.

I really appreciate it if someone can give me some guidance on a new build, thanks!

This looks like the info I was looking for:

https://github.com/ramapcsx2/gbs-contro ... od-Library

One thing I don’t see mentioned is the 1uF capacitor to ground. Is this still suggested?

If anyone has any other suggestions then please let me know. Thanks again.

I finally got gbs (single VGA and black buttons, v4.0 from 2019) with gbs-control working. However, I have two questions

1. When I connect my PSX (PAL SCPH-7500, csync directly to the board) I get wavy lines (heat waves) all across the screen. However, everywhere else (GT1, Tekken 3, LSD: Dream Emulator) they're either completly invisible or much harder to notice. What should I do to make them less noticeable? (Only things I did outisde to board of gbs-control was adding 100ohm resistor for RGB sync and removing C11) I currently dont have access to SMD capacitors to solder to C23 C41 C42 C48 so I would prefer to omit doing that if there's something else to do.

2. Can I leave RGB connector plugged (but without a signal going on) when I use component? Connector i've got with a board is quite hard to disconnect so I would prefer to not touch it unless I have to.

1) You removed C11 and replaced with a 22uf electrolytic cap?
And you know, since your issue sounds exactly like what C23 C41 C42 and C48 solves, it's probably a good idea to do them. ebay services the entire world these days.

2) Yes, you can have component plus either of the other inputs connected simultaneously. You cannot have both RGBS/RGBHV inputs connected simultanesouly.

Hi guys, I have an issue with RGB potentiometers on my GBS board. I have removed them, and after that, I have lost the RED color from picture. Then I was a re-solder the bridge connection and solder it again, and after that, I have lost a RED and GREEN color.. I can't understand what happens and how I can fix that issue.

I have attached a link to the image with an solder points to the spoiler.

NoAffinity: For now I just removed C11, however I've got some THT caps that should fit so I'll put one later on. And since it's seems to be the only option, I'll source some SMD ones as well after holidays for those 4 points (unless I can find 10uf ones I have got some time ago). As I said, it's really noticeable only in BIOS so I should be able to cope with that until they arrive
And thanks for claryfing the situation about the inputs