GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

The place for all discussion on gaming hardware
rama
Posts: 1373
Joined: Wed Mar 08, 2017 3:15 pm

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by rama »

Hey, first off, this is still in heavy development. I'm just posting updates on my more familiar forum (in German, sorry ;p).
https://circuit-board.de/forum/index.ph ... /?pageNo=2

To the questions!

brightness:
I don't know what kind of cables are being used (what extra components are or aren't installed).
The GBS itself is configured to produce 0.7Vpp (100%) brightness *IF* the source delivers 0.7Vpp as well.
Most consoles I tested do not deliver as much, all depending on the cables.
For that reason, there is an auto adjustment feature that monitors the red output and tries to bring it to 100% over time.
It needs a cable connected from a Red (or Green, or Blue) output pin (use the extra pin header besides the VGA out port) into Arduino A0.
Then in the software, in setup(), set rto->autoGainADC = true;
It measures only one output but adjusts all 3 RGB channels.
The feature isn't very reliable yet but you can try!
A late generation PSX delivers the correct amplitudes by the way. (anything > SCPH-700x)

scanlines:
I like those, so I'll definitely try to get something like an SLG working. At the moment, it's probably just the sync pulse polarity that's off.
People requesting a 640x480 preset with that in mind, please hold out while I look into it. Chances are, it's just a bit to toggle and the usual preset will work.

resolutions in general:
This is a big one. It's very hard for me to create different resolutions. This is due to the amount of video timing knowledge necessary to even begin doing it.
I'm slowly learning though, and I'll need this to develop common TV compatible presets.
Do note that only the current (1280x1024) preset is fully optimized to fix many typical GBS problems.
There's filters to set, the H-PLL to tune, the Memory Controller to tune.. All on top of the video timings challenge.
Everything has to mix nicely to produce a good image.

Scart female to VGA male adapter:
Look what I found: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=35423
:D
It basically has to be an RGB passthrough + a solution for Sync. An LM1881 sync stripper works great with the GBS board.
Remember to attenuate the output with a 670 Ohm series resistor!
Get your 5V from the Scart cable (the console).
Alternatively, the LM1881 could be on the GBS board, fed by the input power supply (if that is 5V), or even by the GBS 3.3V.
In the 3.3V case, we're working with too little voltage. It works in my tests but it's not ideal and some care must be taken with bypass capacitors.

Are tests / reports useful?:
Very! I can only test with the hardware and time that I've got. You guys with your particular setups will discover problems that I'd never encounter here.
Also, it tells me what people want to see the most.
If you have capture hardware, videos would be great! :)
falz
Posts: 22
Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2016 10:39 pm

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by falz »

rama wrote: People requesting a 640x480 preset with that in mind, please hold out while I look into it. Chances are, it's just a bit to toggle and the usual preset will work.
If it helps at all, here's my 480p (640x480) preset in your format (~600 lines) which started life as doolink's "RGBHV_640x480@60Hz_RGB_240p60.set". Only changes should be some h/v shifting.

https://falz.net/static/RGBHV_640x480_6 ... _tweaked.h
rama
Posts: 1373
Joined: Wed Mar 08, 2017 3:15 pm

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by rama »

I'm not sure going with a low resolution will work out.
I've noticed that the lower the (horizontal mainly) resolution, the harder it gets to eliminate artefacts and align the colors with luma.
Even 1024 pixels is quite a bit harder to make look nice than 1280.
So far I didn't have the right display to start looking into 1920x1080. It's quite possible that it'll yield the best results.
I think I'll be doing this for Component out, since most displays support 1080p over Component.
falz
Posts: 22
Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2016 10:39 pm

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by falz »

I use 480p because that's the native resolution of my CRT, unsure if this is also why SCARTicus asked.
User avatar
SCARTicus
Posts: 189
Joined: Wed Apr 05, 2017 4:51 pm
Location: TX

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by SCARTicus »

I asked because it is my preferred resolution, and because 1280x1024 is a 5:4 aspect ratio, rather than the ideal 4:3. Although I realize that most consoles did not render at 4:3, they were intended to be displayed at 4:3. This is a smaller issue on a CRT, but those are dying fast and I imagine in ten years it will be virtually impossible to find one in decent working condition.

That res gives a look that I prefer on PC CRTs. If I'm going to watch an old SDTV show on my PC, I will turn the resolution down to VGA res. Compression artefacts disappear and it just looks "right" in a way that I cannot fully understand or explain. I get nice, chunky scanlines out of my primary aperture grille monitor all the way to SVGA and 768i (yes!) and visible lines up to XGA. This bad boy goes all the way to 1800x1400@85.

BTW, I am not asking for low resolutions anymore. Rama made it clear that it was most likely just not in the cards and I can live with that.

Falz, I am eager to test that preset that you linked. I do not know how to, however. I am not experienced with Arduino or anything like this. Let's say that I have opened the Arduino IDE and my Uno is connected via USB (I have it set up for that, I was able to successfully upload Rama's program, after all.). I have your files and Rama's files. So, from the IDE, how do I flash your preset to my board and make it work. I am sorry for my inexperience, but I only need to have it explained to me once.
falz
Posts: 22
Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2016 10:39 pm

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by falz »

SCARTicus wrote:I asked because it is my preferred resolution, and because 1280x1024 is a 5:4 aspect ratio, rather than the ideal 4:3. Although I realize that most consoles did not render at 4:3, they were intended to be displayed at 4:3. This is a smaller issue on a CRT, but those are dying fast and I imagine in ten years it will be virtually impossible to find one in decent working condition.

That res gives a look that I prefer on PC CRTs. If I'm going to watch an old SDTV show on my PC, I will turn the resolution down to VGA res. Compression artefacts disappear and it just looks "right" in a way that I cannot fully understand or explain. I get nice, chunky scanlines out of my primary aperture grille monitor all the way to SVGA and 768i (yes!) and visible lines up to XGA. This bad boy goes all the way to 1800x1400@85.

BTW, I am not asking for low resolutions anymore. Rama made it clear that it was most likely just not in the cards and I can live with that.

Falz, I am eager to test that preset that you linked. I do not know how to, however. I am not experienced with Arduino or anything like this. Let's say that I have opened the Arduino IDE and my Uno is connected via USB (I have it set up for that, I was able to successfully upload Rama's program, after all.). I have your files and Rama's files. So, from the IDE, how do I flash your preset to my board and make it work. I am sorry for my inexperience, but I only need to have it explained to me once.

All that I did to hack mine in, which may not be 100% correct, is to add #include "RGBHV_640x480_60Hz_RGB_240p60_tweaked.h" at the top of gbs-control.ino and commented out "writeProgramArrayNew(ntsc_240p);" and replaced it with "writeProgramArrayNew(RGBHV_640x480_60Hz_RGB_240p60_tweaked);" in an else if statement near the middle of the progam.

A perhaps better more test-ey way is to just add a new case statement for an unused letter (case 'u' is what I used) and call writeProgramArrayNew(RGBHV_640x480_60Hz_RGB_240p60_tweaked); from there.

If for some reason you wished to use any of doolink's other presets, do basically the same thing but use writeProgramArray() instead of writeProgramArrayNew().
rama
Posts: 1373
Joined: Wed Mar 08, 2017 3:15 pm

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by rama »

That would be the correct way to upload different presets :)

Other resolutions will happen sooner or later. I'm just saying that I'll first go for the higher ones, for several reasons.
The GBS are upscalers. This means the resolutions and their aspect ratios aren't defining what you see on the TV.
They're more like defining a canvas, on which we can draw.
For example, if the image is too wide, simply decrease horizontal scaling and adjust the H-Blank :)

(I say "simply". It's actually quite involved with all those parameters. But it's doable ;) )
User avatar
SCARTicus
Posts: 189
Joined: Wed Apr 05, 2017 4:51 pm
Location: TX

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by SCARTicus »

Okay Falz, I tested that 480p preset. It is really nice looking on my PSOne. Metal Slug X would go black during gameplay every few seconds until I disconnected the VSync from my arduino, though. After that it stopped blacking out and it looked and played rather well. I also tested Chrono Trigger and ZanacXZanac with similar results.

This preset hated my ths7374 modded N64. I never got blacking out, but the screen would freeze for a fraction of a second every ten or so seconds. This makes every game unplayable. Also, N64 games had a weird ghosting effect, which mucked up the image and the motion. This effect was extremely pronounced.

Thank you for the walkthrough and the file. For now, though, Rama's preset looks like the most promising all-purpose preset.
rama
Posts: 1373
Joined: Wed Mar 08, 2017 3:15 pm

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by rama »

I've made a lot of progress lately. If you guys could test and report back, that would be great!

The PAL / NTSC presets are now aiming for 720p timings. Your displays should report 720p.
It easier now to create new presets, so 640x480 is doable.
I need to know if the current timings display properly first though.

Cheers!
User avatar
SCARTicus
Posts: 189
Joined: Wed Apr 05, 2017 4:51 pm
Location: TX

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by SCARTicus »

Great. I'll get on it and let you know. Do I need to connect HSync and Red?
rama
Posts: 1373
Joined: Wed Mar 08, 2017 3:15 pm

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by rama »

Hsync is unused and I might not ever need it.
Red can be connected, if you want the auto ADC gain feature (automatic brightness gain, depending on console RGB output).
rama
Posts: 1373
Joined: Wed Mar 08, 2017 3:15 pm

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by rama »

Just in case you can't get a full picture with the new presets anymore: I'm an idiot! :p
I used 720p "HD" formats, not realizing that many displays will only display those in 16:9.
There's going to be another round of presets.
If the current ones work for you, your display respects a force 4:3 option, or is already 4:3 natively.
User avatar
SCARTicus
Posts: 189
Joined: Wed Apr 05, 2017 4:51 pm
Location: TX

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by SCARTicus »

I didn't have any issues with the aspect ratio, but the one widescreen that I tested has a control for 4:3. I did have to shift the image significantly the the right for some reason on both CRTs.

I played some N64 with the new preset and it looked great and was fast. The screen had two major hiccups over a ~10 minute period of time. Other than that it was fine.

I didn't notice anything bad when I was playing Genesis. I played for a good hour. It looked really nice. I also fired up Artemio's 240p test suite and everything looked right.

I still had to significantly increase the brightness settings on each of my monitors in order to get the picture right, and my preferred monitor unfortunately does not have enough 'headroom' on this setting to enable a bright enough image.

If the Arduino is using the output of the Red line to automatically adjust brightness levels, would I be able to put a potentiometer on that line to manually control brightness?

If you do not want to use an HD format for this preset, then maybe XGA would be a good fit. Most 720p LCDs are actually 768 pixels tall anyway, so it might even give a better image on those. Also it is the preferred resolution of most scan line generators.
rama
Posts: 1373
Joined: Wed Mar 08, 2017 3:15 pm

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by rama »

XGA meaning 1024x768, right?
I actually tried those but for some reason, they demand inverted sync pulses.
Since I haven't tried my theory on how to get those yet, I went with 1280x960 now.
I'm doing all that with the new tools, so it's a pretty efficient process :)

I saw those hickups with my SNES for a while. Will have to investigate those.

For the brightness, I don't know what's wrong there. At least for N64, many older RGB mods were too dim.
Genesis should be fine, if you have the right cable.
I wouldn't try to use the ADC gain tool to correct that kind of brightness issue.
It must be something with the cables, the RGB mod (N64) or with any adapters.
It's unlikely that the VGA to monitor cable is bad, but better check :p

Update:
Oh! I forgot about the crappy trimpots on the inputs. Make sure to turn them all the way to the left!
znpfg
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Dec 16, 2017 4:58 pm
Location: Japan
Contact:

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by znpfg »

I have tested the rama's automatic upscaler with arduino nano. I bought the GBS8200 v4 and GBS8220 v3 with Arduino nano compatible one.
The program port on the GBS8200 v3 was not soldered, while the GBS8220 has a port.

I soldered the program port for GBS8200 v3, then compile and upload the rama's work into Arduino nano.

Wiring (Arduino : GBS82xx)
Pin A4: SDA
Pin A5: SCL
Pin A0: Red channel of VGA2 output
pin VCC in P5 port : 5V
pin GND in P5 port : GND
pin D10: VSYNC in VGA2 output

Video source
Dodonpachi Daioujou (Playstation 2 SCPH-77000) (JP21 out) - (JP21 in) Micomsoft XSYNC-1 (DSUB15 out) - (DSUB15 input) GBS82xx
Retroelectronik supergun (SCART-JP21 out) - (JP21 in) Micomsoft XSYNC-1 (DSUB15 out) - (DSUB15 input) GBS82xx
PS2 (jp21 out) - (handmade jp21-5pin RGBS in) - gbs8200 (dsub15 out) - SC512N1-L/DVI or monitor


Result:
Although there is little noise on the screen, the screen is quite excellent :D .
I think the noise is from GBS82xx itself. This problem may be improved by replacement the capacitor.
I tested using Arcade PCB Psikyo Strikers 1945-3 and playstation 2 SCPH-77000.
The resolution was fixed as 1280x720, no artifact has observed both PS2 and arcade JAMMA board.
The screen has cropped of left and right. I suppose this might be caused by no wiring the pin 10 and pin 11.
It seems that GBS8200 v4 has auto-gain function, the brightness with PS2 source was fine without changing the potentiometer.
But in GBS8220 v3 case, the brightness has terrible low even if I change the potentiometer to minimum, while the brightness by arcade jamma signal was fine.

Image
Image

Since I tested via old source, the resolution was 720p which was displayed as
cropped on my monitor/capture device. Now I have updated the newest source that
has changed to 1280x960, which is fine to fit my monitor and capture device
(micomsoft SC-512N1-L/DVI)

I’m very impressived that this is no black-out/flicker during the 240p-480i
change. I’ve never seen like this upscaler even if few frame needed via ossc.

Here I attatched the captured some screenshots.

1280x720 (4days ago, with -80 left offset)
Image

1280x960 (now, without offset, perfect in my monitor/capture device)
Image

I also played the two delay-sensitive games to practical testing the delay that
there were no delay I feel in the 240p source.


regard
Last edited by znpfg on Tue Dec 19, 2017 6:22 pm, edited 7 times in total.
znpfg
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Dec 16, 2017 4:58 pm
Location: Japan
Contact:

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by znpfg »

Edit: sorry, duplicated post.
Deleted myself.
Last edited by znpfg on Tue Dec 19, 2017 5:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
SCARTicus
Posts: 189
Joined: Wed Apr 05, 2017 4:51 pm
Location: TX

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by SCARTicus »

I'm going to stop mentioning brightness because I think it is just something with my monitor. I ramped up the R,G,and B gain from the 70 range into the 80s and now everything is perfect.

I played with the scaler some more. I played for about 2 hours last night, and I did not see any tearing or screen hiccups at all. I was also able to finally test my Saturn, which works great. I lost the color red briefly while playing SFZ3. This only happened on Saturn playing SFZ3. I also got through a game of NBA Jam and a circuit of Mario Kart 64 with a friend and there were no noticeable visual artefacts.

The picture really is fantastic. Text is more legible and character profile pictures, as are present in many games, look clearer and better than ever. I never realised how detailed some of them actually are, and the animated ones in StarFox64 look especially great. Dark scenes are easily playable. The deep space levels of SF64 have always been too dark, even over s-video on a decent tube tv. I always struggled to see the enemies on these levels, especially the boss of "Sector Y", who may as well have been invisible. It is easier to see him now! It's still too dark, but that is Nintendo's fault and theirs alone. Textures on N64 look really nice. I always thought that the 64, which was and still is my favorite of the 5th gen, had muddy and unimpressive textures compared to the PSX. They look much nicer now. It is very noticeable.

I know that many or most people have trouble getting a sharp image from an N64 even over RGB, but my image is very sharp. I can easily make out individual pixels, and there is no hint of blur.

I enjoy playing on this. It works almost perfectly most of the time. However, the fact that it occasionally jump/hiccups/blanks means that I will not be putting any together for my friends yet. I feel like this is currently the biggest issue from a user's standpoint.

By XGA I did in fact mean 1024x768.

I was reading the beginning of this thread, and Dooklink says that he was able to get a simple linedoubling mode working. Would this possibly be faster than scaling? Do you think that your control program might see further speed increases?

Thank you again for all of the hard work.
rama
Posts: 1373
Joined: Wed Mar 08, 2017 3:15 pm

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by rama »

Many thanks for both of your reports :)

I'm currently trying to nail down some image positioning and geometry issues that seem to plague PAL video modes / using the 50Hz output settings.
Once that is done, I can investigate those hiccups and start thinking about some user controls.
Also, the YPbPr and HDMI output methods need some work.
(HDMI, as used on the blue new GBS boards, has wrong colors. YPbPr most likely needs the hardware resistor modification for proper colors.)

I don't think I can reduce the lag any more. It already is somewhere close to just 16ms, which is half of a "low lag" device.
The line double mode in the Scaler IC is interesting nevertheless, because it might allow me to bypass some processing.

Last but not least, I want to try to get the ADC sampling phase correct. Right now, it is randomly aligning or not aligning.
If I get this right, I can disable many filters and deliver absolutely razor sharp pixels ;)
User avatar
SCARTicus
Posts: 189
Joined: Wed Apr 05, 2017 4:51 pm
Location: TX

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by SCARTicus »

That is good to hear. I do not think I mentioned this, but the size of the image, vertically and horizontally, is different for some games on the same system. Like, on Saturn, Metal Slug is narrower than Street Fighter Zero 3, but about the same height. I do not know if this is an actual issue or not.
rama
Posts: 1373
Joined: Wed Mar 08, 2017 3:15 pm

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by rama »

That would be normal. Games don't have to use a fixed resolution on the Saturn :)

Some more pictures, this time the focus is on the maximum definition I can get out of the GBS right now:
Image

Image

Again, this is a $20 delivered board :p
User avatar
AndehX
Posts: 790
Joined: Sun Oct 18, 2015 11:37 pm

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by AndehX »

man this makes me want to get this board again so I can play around with and potentially help with stuff. I've lost my damn arduino though :/
zerosigea
Posts: 7
Joined: Sat Dec 23, 2017 8:48 pm

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by zerosigea »

Hello all. Long time lurker, first time poster.

Figured I would come check in and see if there was any news on this thread. Seems there is :)

First things first, many thanks to dooklink for providing a jumping off point for many of us (myself included).

But wow, rama, your code is a lot more functional than my sorry attempt at porting it (a big reason why I hadn't shared it). I mean it works, but it's pretty basic.

Anyway, I've been trying out your code and I've been trying for the past couple of hours to get the auto vsync calibration function to work on my Arduino Mega 2560, but despite all my fiddling with it, it doesn't seem to detect vsync. I've made modifications to the code to look at PINB, bit 4 (because Arduino pin 10 got moved to PB4 on the Mega MCU), still no sync detected, I checked the connection with both a multimeter and a dummy program, so I know it's seeing the signal. Maybe it's a timing issue, I guess? Any advice would be appreciated.

Other than that, the code works, I just make it run the vclktest mode by pressing 2 at the serial monitor (the normal NTSC preset doesn't play well with my Genesis). Probably not ideal, but at least I was able to get a stable image out of my setup.

Thanks again.
Last edited by zerosigea on Sun Dec 24, 2017 5:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
znpfg
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Dec 16, 2017 4:58 pm
Location: Japan
Contact:

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by znpfg »

I forgot to report about hiccup the screen. But it seems that no longer
hiccuped since I update yesterday. After then I created simple LM1881
circuit to extract the v-sync for sending stabilized signal to arduino D10.
Maybe I don't need the LM1881 circuit for console except for dirty sync
signal such as arcade pcb.

Should I check the effect of LM1881N? Anyway, I can capture PS2 NTSC
240p/480i and strikers 1945-3 arcade pcb with no-cropped/shifted image
with latest source code.

EDIT : Rechecked. I wired C-sync into arduino D10 that, LM1881 was not
affected the hiccup screen with latest source code. checked by NTSC PS2
SCPH-77000 and arcade PCB.


Here’s attached my improved setup and results.
Image

Image

Image

Image

many thanks for this project contributer.
Last edited by znpfg on Mon Dec 25, 2017 2:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
Hoagtech
Posts: 939
Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2015 3:53 am
Location: Bellingham, WA

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by Hoagtech »

I am a huge fan of this project. And would love to invest my time into its completion.

I think it is the answer for solving low cost solutions for RGB gaming compatibility.

The Top one is a GBS 8220 V3. The bottom is a HD9600 V5.
Image

I bought off of ebay with a custom scart socket (the image is not good)

SCART SOCKET (poorly soldered)
Image

So I have 2 GBS versions I would love to install and test the custom firmware onto. That being said

what Arduino should I buy from ebay? And do I need anything else?

Image
Copyright 1987
User avatar
SCARTicus
Posts: 189
Joined: Wed Apr 05, 2017 4:51 pm
Location: TX

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by SCARTicus »

Hoagtech, how are you powering that board? It looks to me like maybe that board is trying to get power from the game console over SCART. Is that what is going on? I was curious to see if something like that would work.

Also, I use a V5 board like yours. I wonder if there is any practical difference in the two with the new firmware. It would be cool if you tested both boards and let us know.

I'm pretty sure that you can use any Arduino Uno clone. I use a Sparkfun Uno clone called the redboard.

Does anyone know where I can get wiring harnesses for the VGA pin headers on these boards? I do not know what they are called.
User avatar
Hoagtech
Posts: 939
Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2015 3:53 am
Location: Bellingham, WA

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by Hoagtech »

SCARTicus wrote:Hoagtech, how are you powering that board? It looks to me like maybe that board is trying to get power from the game console over SCART. Is that what is going on? I was curious to see if something like that would work.

Also, I use a V5 board like yours. I wonder if there is any practical difference in the two with the new firmware. It would be cool if you tested both boards and let us know.

I'm pretty sure that you can use any Arduino Uno clone. I use a Sparkfun Uno clone called the redboard.

Does anyone know where I can get wiring harnesses for the VGA pin headers on these boards? I do not know what they are called.
I use a 5v 2A 100-240v AC/DC Adapter that came with the V3.

I use it on this power connector.

Image

I have read that the GBS likes a decent PSU.

Do you have one you would recommend? I may have robbed this PSU from another device so if there is something that is known to work I will use that instead
Copyright 1987
User avatar
Hoagtech
Posts: 939
Joined: Mon Apr 27, 2015 3:53 am
Location: Bellingham, WA

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by Hoagtech »

This is what the HD 9600 V5 looks like on my Mitsubishi XC3725C monitor.

Image
I had to crank up the Brightness, Contrast, and turn down the saturation in the GBS menu to get a "tolerable" picture.

It still looks washed out and all my whites have a purple/red hue to them.

I cannot test my GBS 8220 V3 until I can get a SCART to D sub working.

THis is what my OSSC looks like on the same PAUSE screen.

Image
Copyright 1987
rama
Posts: 1373
Joined: Wed Mar 08, 2017 3:15 pm

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by rama »

Hey everyone!

Generally, the GBS board doesn't need anything special for the power supply.
It should be 5V with at least 1A and maybe not the very cheapest you can find.
The entire board (with Arduino and LM1881) uses about 2.5W of power.

@zerosigea
First off, I want to warn you for using a Mega 2560, probably not altered. I read that those use their own physical pull up resistors for the I2C pins.
They probably pull the bus up to 5V, while the GBS is a 3.3V device. It would be best if you removed those resistors on the Mega (or changed to an Uno, or used level translators).

For the VSync-in pin, it should be #51 in your IDE (pinMode(51, INPUT)). That way, no further changes are necessary.
Alternatively, keep "pin 10" but change all occurrences of "bitRead(PINB, 2)" to "bitRead(PINB, 4)".

@znpfg
Your board looks good already!
You need to connect the VSync that the GBS produces to the Arduino, not your LM1881 CSync.
https://github.com/ramapcsx2/gbs-contro ... nect-vsync
Otherwise, everything should be good.

@Hoagtech
The Arduino you picked will be just fine. Other that a few cables and one jumper, you don't need anything else.
I would move that little LM1881 board away from the TiVo memory bus though. The area is electrically noisy.
znpfg
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Dec 16, 2017 4:58 pm
Location: Japan
Contact:

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by znpfg »

rama wrote:
@znpfg
Your board looks good already!
You need to connect the VSync that the GBS produces to the Arduino, not your LM1881 CSync.
https://github.com/ramapcsx2/gbs-contro ... nect-vsync
Otherwise, everything should be good.
Rama, I have a question. You described in manual that we need v-sync to use auto sync functionality.
I used v-sync(NOT the “C”) by extrated from LM1881 pin3(v-sync out) which is connected to arduino D10 with no-modified gbs-control source code. Was that wrong method? Just I’d better to use v-sync from VGA2?

Regard
Post Reply