GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

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Puppydogpals
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by Puppydogpals »

Hi,

I just got all bits and pieces to do the GBS8200 and installed all components and flashed gbscontrol.

Removed the pots and bridged the correct points, removed C11, added the 4 caps, installed the clock gen and esp.

I'm using a vga to hdmi adapter for output and a sync strike for rgb scart input.

All seems to be working properly. Can connect and change resolution and alter screen position etc and get the message about having the clock installed. So all good.

I only have a few questions if I may

I am using a 5v 3amp power supply. Will that be enough to run the board,clock,esp and also power the vga2hdmi adapter if I run a cable from the power pins? (P8 If I recall)

I was also thinking of running a cable to my sync strike too, I know most scarts would power this, but If I have one that does not I wanted to utilise the board power for this.

I see the gbs can use upto 12v but I guessing this would blow the clock,esp and vga2hdmi?

If I use sync strike do I also need to use the 100ohm resistor mod too, if so what watt do I need. I have some 1/4w 100ohm film resistors but i guess they are underpowered and would fail

how often is the gbscontrol github updated should I reflash the software every so often?

Thanks
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SCARTicus
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by SCARTicus »

Puppydogpals wrote:Hi,

I just got all bits and pieces to do the GBS8200 and installed all components and flashed gbscontrol.

Removed the pots and bridged the correct points, removed C11, added the 4 caps, installed the clock gen and esp.

I'm using a vga to hdmi adapter for output and a sync strike for rgb scart input.

All seems to be working properly. Can connect and change resolution and alter screen position etc and get the message about having the clock installed. So all good.

I only have a few questions if I may

I am using a 5v 3amp power supply. Will that be enough to run the board,clock,esp and also power the vga2hdmi adapter if I run a cable from the power pins? (P8 If I recall)

I was also thinking of running a cable to my sync strike too, I know most scarts would power this, but If I have one that does not I wanted to utilise the board power for this.

I see the gbs can use upto 12v but I guessing this would blow the clock,esp and vga2hdmi?

If I use sync strike do I also need to use the 100ohm resistor mod too, if so what watt do I need. I have some 1/4w 100ohm film resistors but i guess they are underpowered and would fail

how often is the gbscontrol github updated should I reflash the software every so often?

Thanks
5v at 3A should be plenty for all of that, and I can verify that it will work with the exception of the vga2hdmi converter. I do not know what voltage the converter expects, but if it is a 5v device, then you will be good. I blew my ESP when I tried to power everything with 9v. You should still do the 100Ohm resistor. On which input are you using the SyncStrike? I would not run a separate power supply to the SyncStrike. When I tried that in this configuration, I got weird power bleed issues. Sync Strike works great with power from the SCART line, and all of the consoles that I have tried work great that way. Which consoles are you using with your GBS-C?
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NoAffinity
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by NoAffinity »

The firmware should pretty much be considered final. It hasn't been updated in quite a while and rama has expressed that he has moved on to other things (and more power, and best wishes, to him).

The gbs with all inherent goodies will run fine off of 5v 1a. Figure out what the max draw for any additional devices is/are, like the vga to hdmi , add those to the 1a, and you will know if 3a is good enough, but I would echo @SCARTicus, and 3a should be more than enough.

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jc179
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by jc179 »

Hi there

Hoping someone with more experience in this project might be able to offer some suggestions for what I'm trying to do with a GBS 8220. My understanding is the GBS 8220 can handle SOG/Sync on green inputs, but from digging possibly only on the composite inputs, but I imagine some passive components could be added to get SOG to work on the VGA hd15 connector ?

I want to use the GBS 8220 as a converter, to pickup the 13W3 /SOG signal from an older Silicon Graphics / SGI machine I have, and send the signal through the GBS, and on out the HD15/VGA output to any ole vga screen that supports the resolution.

I am using an adapter to go from 13W3 to VGA off the back of the SGI, and sending it into the GBS 8220. The signal from most SGI have the h/v signals on the green color signal channel, and I am finding most modern monitors don't support this anymore. I thought that using the GBS 8220 would be a neat solution to get this working on any screen removing the dependency of finding a SOG one..

Any advice or insight going down this road before I get started?

thanks,
Jonathan
bsas
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by bsas »

Hi!

I am just researching the mods for the 8200 and I have a couple of questions related to some soldering simplifications:

1) Why is it recommended to "remove" the C11 and replace with an 22uF? Can I just solder an 22uF in "parallel" to it? (asking because it is easier to solder an 22uF directly to the "LDO" pads right bellow it since the pads are bigger.

2) Why don't we use the "Vin" pads on the Si5351A clock gen and we solder directly to the cap? I like the idea of using the LDO on the clock gen if possible to assure power consistency, and the clock gen chip can easily be wired to the 3.3V or 5V in theory (the documentation on Adafruit specifies it supports 3-5VDC). Heck, you could even get it from the ESP8266 Vin no?

3) Also for the clock gen, why we solder to the Pin 25 and 26 pads instead of just going to the SCL and SDA headers? Asking basically because soldering to IC pads is harder for beginners and that would make the wiring so much easier.

4) Is the Pin 40 for TrueView not connected to any other component? I much prefer soldering to caps/resistors instead of soldering to IC pads.

5) Same question for the debug pin, is it not connected anywhere in the board?

Thanks a lot, you all rock!!! :D
lolitsevan
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by lolitsevan »

Hi, I just put one of these boards together according to voultar's video, and the only issue I'm having is that I can't connect to the web ui when I have video plugged in. With only power plugged in the web ui loads fine using gbscontrol.local, but as soon as I get video running through the board the web ui is unreachable. I'm getting a picture(looks significantly better than stock) and I checked continuity everywhere, all seems good. p8 jumper is bridged, as I THINK it should be(?).

Also, gbs control only seems to load when the blue "COM" light on the wifi module is OFF, and that light never goes off when input or output signals are connected. Not sure how the video signals being connected would change anything but I'm certainly no expert. Swapped d1 and d2 on the wifi module as well just to see what happened, and I lost picture so I swapped those back. I also put a 22uf cap on c11 instead of just leaving it open, as I saw somewhere I can't remember.

NodeMcu V3 LUA WeMos wifi module
Adafruit Si5351A Clock Generator
5v 2amp psu
^the particular stuff I used, incase any of that stuff is wrong/won't work for this

if the problem ends up being that the board needs to be reflashed, what connections do I need to disconnect from the gbs in order to flash the wifi module again? Can I get away with just power/data/debug or do I need to disconnect the wifi module entirely to flash?

Sorry if someone has asked/answered this before, any help would be appreciated, thanks.
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NoAffinity
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by NoAffinity »

jc179 wrote:Hi there

Hoping someone with more experience in this project might be able to offer some suggestions for what I'm trying to do with a GBS 8220. My understanding is the GBS 8220 can handle SOG/Sync on green inputs, but from digging possibly only on the composite inputs, but I imagine some passive components could be added to get SOG to work on the VGA hd15 connector ?

I want to use the GBS 8220 as a converter, to pickup the 13W3 /SOG signal from an older Silicon Graphics / SGI machine I have, and send the signal through the GBS, and on out the HD15/VGA output to any ole vga screen that supports the resolution.

I am using an adapter to go from 13W3 to VGA off the back of the SGI, and sending it into the GBS 8220. The signal from most SGI have the h/v signals on the green color signal channel, and I am finding most modern monitors don't support this anymore. I thought that using the GBS 8220 would be a neat solution to get this working on any screen removing the dependency of finding a SOG one..

Any advice or insight going down this road before I get started?

thanks,
Jonathan
Component only on the rca inputs, and rgbs or rgbhv on the hd-15, 5 pin or 8 pin input. (Rgbs only on the 5 pin)

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humantofu
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by humantofu »

Hi everyone,
I'm just writing this down because I want to know if there's a way to get accurate (or close to accurate) colors with GBS-C. I enjoy the PS2's sharp output for captures, but I can't help but notice that when comparing my captures to other longplays of games like SH2 on Youtube, that the colors were slightly off.
For comparison, there's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_8uqu4UaLQ as an example, and my captures right here https://imgur.com/gallery/SBM4bNV.
Changing the colors by going from Oversampling 1x from 4x helps and gets rid of the ugly green tint that it sometimes defaults to, but I was just wondering if there's more options that can help improve the colors, or if this just an inherent limitation of the board.
yatzr
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by yatzr »

I put one of these together over the weekend, more or less following voultar's recent video guide. Everything is fine with it, except something about the external clock generator causes the screen to be shaky. It feels like interlace flicker, but horizontal instead of vertical and a little more intense. I did a bunch of triaging, including adding caps on the 3.3v lines around the big chip. I tested it on two different monitors and with two different systems (ps2 with component, misterfpga with vga) and the shaking was always consistent. It wasn't until I disconnected power to the clock generator that the shaking stopped and I had a rock solid picture. I tried resoldering everything for the clock generator, but still shaky screen.

I tried searching through this thread, but didn't find anything obvious. Anyone else ever run into this? Or anyone have ideas of what I could try? I'm kinda wondering if maybe I just got a bad clock generator.
Image
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Syntax
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by Syntax »

double post
Last edited by Syntax on Tue Sep 21, 2021 2:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Syntax
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by Syntax »

Try the ceramic cap that should be on the clock line. Could help
Syntax wrote:Finally got around to installing the external clock :)

I cut the clock pad in half to fit the capacitor, I freak out installing SMD floating off pads.

Image

Image
yatzr
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by yatzr »

Interesting, I completely missed that cap. It seems like most people aren't including it. I didn't have any 1nF, but I did have some 4.7nF, so I did 4 in series to get close :lol:
Unfortunately, I still get the exact same shake as before :(
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NoAffinity
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by NoAffinity »

yatzr wrote:Interesting, I completely missed that cap. It seems like most people aren't including it. I didn't have any 1nF, but I did have some 4.7nF, so I did 4 in series to get close :lol:
Unfortunately, I still get the exact same shake as before :(
Image
Cant tell where you're pulling power from, for the clock gen, but C48 is recommended. Maybe it's all the same, but maybe theres some noise near your current source that is causing problems.

Also, your clock line is pretty long, relatively speaking. Should keep it as short as possible. See syntax's handiwork for a good example of how best to do it.

What kind of caps did you add to C23, C41(alternative: C43), C42, C48?

And you did the below mods, as well as replacing c11 with an electrolytic?
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Syntax
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by Syntax »

Looks like a tantalum cap on c48??

That little bridge of caps is great I love seeing stuff like that, screw waiting for parts hey?

I keep a few crt chassis boards and VCR boards to steal the SMD components from when doing tests.
yatzr
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by yatzr »

NoAffinity wrote:Cant tell where you're pulling power from, for the clock gen, but C48 is recommended. Maybe it's all the same, but maybe theres some noise near your current source that is causing problems.
There's a bunch of those capacitors that are all on the same 3.3v line. Voultar's guide uses one of them from that side to get a shorter power wire. Regardless, I did try pulling power from a couple different places, including 5v on Vin. Always had the identical shaking behavior. If I get some time later today, I'll check it out with the oscilloscope.
NoAffinity wrote: What kind of caps did you add to C23, C41(alternative: C43), C42, C48?

And you did the below mods, as well as replacing c11 with an electrolytic?
I used some 10uF tantalums cause I already had them on hand. Note that the behavior was the same with or without them. I simply removed c11 as I was following voultar's guide and I've seen a lot of other mentions in this thread and on the wiki that say that's a fine way to go. I did not do the other changes you mentioned, as I believe they are just for the 8220.

I think it's important to keep in mind that I get a rock solid picture if I don't use the external clock generator, so I don't think it's anything on the gbs main board. I played for a few hours last night after simply pulling power off the clock generator board. It's not clear to me what exactly we use that clock generator for, so maybe I don't need it. For what it's worth, I'm playing on a 480p crt.
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Syntax
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by Syntax »

the clock wire should be as short as possible.

Its main purpose it to eliminate screen tearing/rolling line.
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NoAffinity
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by NoAffinity »

yatzr wrote:I did not do the other changes you mentioned, as I believe they are just for the 8220.
Oh, sorry. I confused syntax's pictures with yours. Yeah, disregard that, not needed on an 8200.

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kitty666cats
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by kitty666cats »

Anyone thought about doing a run of VGA/HD-15/DE-15/whocares15 F to M + M to F adapters with sync combiners in ‘em for RGBS in/out of these things for downscaling/better signal stability?

Buttersoft designed one but they’re not gonna be actually printing out any PCBs. As seen in the OP here:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.p ... c=160869.0

I already have a solution at the moment but it is kinda cumbersome, heh. I rarely downscale RGBHV sources anyway, so it’s not really a issue either. But I would assume there’s a decent handful of perverts out there who are SUPER into downscaling shit who may like ‘em
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Josh128
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by Josh128 »

yatzr wrote:
NoAffinity wrote:Cant tell where you're pulling power from, for the clock gen, but C48 is recommended. Maybe it's all the same, but maybe theres some noise near your current source that is causing problems.
There's a bunch of those capacitors that are all on the same 3.3v line. Voultar's guide uses one of them from that side to get a shorter power wire. Regardless, I did try pulling power from a couple different places, including 5v on Vin. Always had the identical shaking behavior. If I get some time later today, I'll check it out with the oscilloscope.
NoAffinity wrote: What kind of caps did you add to C23, C41(alternative: C43), C42, C48?

And you did the below mods, as well as replacing c11 with an electrolytic?
I used some 10uF tantalums cause I already had them on hand. Note that the behavior was the same with or without them. I simply removed c11 as I was following voultar's guide and I've seen a lot of other mentions in this thread and on the wiki that say that's a fine way to go. I did not do the other changes you mentioned, as I believe they are just for the 8220.

I think it's important to keep in mind that I get a rock solid picture if I don't use the external clock generator, so I don't think it's anything on the gbs main board. I played for a few hours last night after simply pulling power off the clock generator board. It's not clear to me what exactly we use that clock generator for, so maybe I don't need it. For what it's worth, I'm playing on a 480p crt.
yatzr, as Syntax said, try to keep the clock gen wire as short as possible. Mine is much, much shorter and Ive had no problems. I just followed the instructions in the wiki, nothing fancy, and had no issues whatsoever. Below is a pic of my install. I did move the Arduino farther away to help with interference as you can see in my SCART install, but thats about it.

Image

and after installing a SCART connector

Image
yatzr
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by yatzr »

I tried moving my external clock to get a shorter wire between pin 40 and the clock. I don't think I can get much shorter than this. I also moved my power and ground to C48 just in case. I still get the exact same shake as before. I really don't think it has changed in the slightest. I'm beginning to wonder if I just got a bad clock generator.

Image


edit:
Just to recap things I've tried:
-Power from 5v power supply to VIN
-Power from two different caps on 3.3v to cap on external clock generator
-With and without extra 10uF caps on 3.3v line.
-Small amount of capacitance between clock generator and pin 40.
-Shorter wire between clock generator and pin 40.

Everything I've tried results in a picture that "shakes" horizontally. It feels like interlace flicker, but sideways, and a bit more intense. The amount of shake has felt the same with each change. When I remove power from the clock generator, I get a perfect stable picture.
Last edited by yatzr on Wed Sep 22, 2021 10:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Josh128
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by Josh128 »

Indeed, maybe it is a bad clock generator.
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Syntax
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by Syntax »

Would make sense.
His is an Adafruit blue one. Ours are all purple with a different xtal.
yatzr
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by yatzr »

I forgot to mention I tried looking at the clock signal on my oscilloscope, but my scope isn't fast enough. First time since I got it that I've ever needed to look at a signal this fast :lol:
I ordered a purple one, so we'll see if that makes the difference. Fortunately it's been running fine without the clock generator on everything I've been playing so far. I also ordered parts to build a second one for a friend, so that'll give me some good opportunity to compare things.
DanAdamKOF
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by DanAdamKOF »

EDIT: Sorted, I think. I bypassed the Monoprice VGA splitter installed after the PCB's DB15 output, and the GBS-Control works exactly as it should. My red herring (and why I didn't mention it) was that the arcade monitor in the cabinet, being fed a signal from the VGA splitter, into its DB15 port (that it happily takes in 15khz on) behaved the same as always. I think the splitter might be doing something to trick the GBS-Control into thinking VSync is present or something like that. Another tell-tale sign was returning the GBS to stock operation resulted in a No Signal message coming from it.

Edit 2: Well I tried clipping the VSync pin in the VGA cable between splitter and the behavior seems unaffected. Not sure what this splitter is doing, but it's doing something.

Edit 3: Replaced the Monoprice splitter with an Extron splitter and it's fine. I don't exactly want to tie this up inside a machine but it's fine I guess.

https://youtu.be/B6Z4p6vSbYw

I'm having an issue with a System 573 arcade PCB and GBS-Control. The PCB has an auxiliary consumer level 15khz RGBS output on a DB15 port. I'm using that to connect to GBS-Control's DB15 input.

It seems like 240p is kind of OK. When it switches 240p to 480i, GBS-Control has an unusable garbled signal (lots of diagonal stuff in the first half and not updating at 60fps). It then continues like that.

I have a very typical build with no clock generator. I've verified the GBS-Control works with other sources, and verified it's not the VGA-HDMI adapter nor capture card that I'm using.

I don't have logs from the exact time that the video above was taken, but I started from the same screen in the game and let it go for a while through the same screens, here's the output. The first Get Video Timings was taken during a 240p screen, the second during a 480i screen.
Spoiler

Code: Select all

....
........
............
...............debug view: on
........
. (debug) ign. length: 0x82
*
. (debug) ign. length: 0x77
 (debug) ign. length: 0x82
. (debug) ign. length: 0x82
*
. (debug) ign. length: 0x7D
* (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
 (debug) ign. length: 0x76
 (debug) ign. length: 0x7F
*
..* (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
 (debug) ign. length: 0x6A

. (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
.
.. (debug) ign. length: 0x72
..... (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
.
............. (debug) ign. length: 0x74
... (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
 (debug) ign. length: 0x68
. (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
* (debug) ign. length: 0x71

.. (debug) ign. length: 0x64
.. (debug) ign. length: 0x72
. (debug) ign. length: 0x6C

. (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
 (debug) ign. length: 0x65
 (debug) ign. length: 0x71
*
..... (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
. (debug) ign. length: 0x67
 (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
 (debug) ign. length: 0x67

.. (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
 (debug) ign. length: 0x69
.. (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
.
HT / scale   : 2704 512
HS ST/SP     : 8 160
HB ST/SP(d)  : 2594 612
HB ST/SP     : 2512 480
------
VT / scale   : 1000 512
VS ST/SP     : 1 4
VB ST/SP(d)  : 1000 38
VB ST/SP     : 24 26
IF VB ST/SP  : 6 8
CsVT         : 97
CsVS_ST/SP   : 4 1
. (debug) ign. length: 0x64
 (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
* (debug) ign. length: 0x53
 (debug) ign. length: 0x65

. (debug) ign. length: 0x66
. (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
* (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
* (debug) ign. length: 0x63
 (debug) ign. length: 0x65
* (debug) ign. length: 0x82

...... (debug) ign. length: 0x68

. (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
 (debug) ign. length: 0x68

. (debug) ign. length: 0x6D
 (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
 (debug) ign. length: 0x6D
* (debug) ign. length: 0x78

. (debug) ign. length: 0x7E
*
. (debug) ign. length: 0x70
. (debug) ign. length: 0x64
.. (debug) ign. length: 0x6D

.. (debug) ign. length: 0x69

........................
.....
HT / scale   : 2704 512
HS ST/SP     : 8 160
HB ST/SP(d)  : 2594 612
HB ST/SP     : 2512 480
------
VT / scale   : 1000 512
VS ST/SP     : 1 4
VB ST/SP(d)  : 1000 38
VB ST/SP     : 24 26
IF VB ST/SP  : 6 8
CsVT         : 259
CsVS_ST/SP   : 4 1
.................................................
........................
... (debug) ign. length: 0x74
. (debug) ign. length: 0x67
. (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
. (debug) ign. length: 0x6B
 (debug) ign. length: 0x6B
. (debug) ign. length: 0x72
 (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
 (debug) ign. length: 0x69
 (debug) ign. length: 0x6C
*
. (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
 (debug) ign. length: 0x6D
*
. (debug) ign. length: 0x6E
 (debug) ign. length: 0x69
. (debug) ign. length: 0x64
 (debug) ign. length: 0x72
. (debug) ign. length: 0x70

. (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
 (debug) ign. length: 0x73
*
. (debug) ign. length: 0x7B
 (debug) ign. length: 0x1A
* (debug) ign. length: 0x65
*
. (debug) ign. length: 0x61
 (debug) ign. length: 0x65

Last edited by DanAdamKOF on Mon Sep 27, 2021 5:51 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Syntax
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by Syntax »

Try snapping the vsync pin on the cable you are using, Vsync is the trigger for VGA passthru.
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by DanAdamKOF »

Syntax wrote:Try snapping the vsync pin on the cable you are using, Vsync is the trigger for VGA passthru.
I just did that and it doesn't seem to have made a difference. I'm pretty sure I clipped it flush enough. edit: Snapped it off from the other side to be sure, it's definitely flush there, no change.

Edit: Replaced the Monoprice splitter with an Extron splitter and it's fine. I don't exactly want to tie this up inside a machine but it's fine I guess.

I guess one thing that would have made this all easier is that it didn’t seem like this was the behavior of no sync or bad sync. The default GBS behavior can communicate this, so it seems there is capability to detect bad sync or inability to sync. If it was more obvious in the UI or in the developer mode text that GBS-Control can’t sync to whatever signal is coming in, it would have made for easier troubleshooting.

I might write that up as a feature request on the GitHub when I get a little time.
yatzr
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Joined: Thu May 23, 2013 3:08 am

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by yatzr »

yatzr wrote:Everything I've tried results in a picture that "shakes" horizontally. It feels like interlace flicker, but sideways, and a bit more intense. The amount of shake has felt the same with each change. When I remove power from the clock generator, I get a perfect stable picture.
Just wanted to share an update. I got a different external clock generator, just some generic purple one (though it came as a black pcb). Swapped it in and my picture is perfect. Confirmed it's using the external clock too. So it was a bad external clock generator I guess.
AlxUnderBase
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Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by AlxUnderBase »

yatzr wrote:
yatzr wrote:Everything I've tried results in a picture that "shakes" horizontally. It feels like interlace flicker, but sideways, and a bit more intense. The amount of shake has felt the same with each change. When I remove power from the clock generator, I get a perfect stable picture.
Just wanted to share an update. I got a different external clock generator, just some generic purple one (though it came as a black pcb). Swapped it in and my picture is perfect. Confirmed it's using the external clock too. So it was a bad external clock generator I guess.
Sir , can you share from where you've got it ? Thank you in advance !
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Syntax
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Location: Australia

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by Syntax »

So stay away from the blue adafruit clock gens then?
yatzr
Posts: 38
Joined: Thu May 23, 2013 3:08 am

Re: GBS 8200/8220 CFW Project

Post by yatzr »

Here's the first one I got
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SK8LNYG?ps ... ct_details
I went with adafruit because I've bought a lot of their stuff in the past and never had a problem with it. :?

Here's the second one that worked with no issue
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DRFK5K4?ps ... ct_details
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