CPS2 A + B boards wont boot?

[Pasky]

I just finished my super gun and got my Atomiswave working great on it and my neo geo mvs board. However I have 3 CPS-2 A+B and none of them give video (or audio I assume as I get nothing from the RCA jacks).

http://na.suzohapp.com/all_catalogs/pow ... 80-0210-00

That's the power supply I'm using, I got the 12V and 5V lines hooked up. I hear the fan kick on when I power it but I get no video. I have 5V and 12V on the jamma lines verified with multimeter. I'm unsure what to think, I've never operated a CPS-2 system. Is there a dip, button, or setting I'm missing for it to boot? Thanks.

EDIT:

Could it be the region? My A boards are Japanese A boards and my B boards are blue. Unsure how region compatibility is for CPS-2.

Am I forgetting anything stupid like the game won't boot unless a kick harness is wired up (all of them require it, they're fighters)?

[ChuChu Flamingo]

Region doesn't matter for US/JP games, as they both have the same pinout for their A and B board. It is Grey boards,Orange boards, and some rentals you need to watch out as they each use a different pin connector that just won't physically fit (but can be modified to do so).

Should be able to hear sound or a picture unless the A-board is dead.

The RCA jacks are line level, so you can just plug it into any old receiver or even tv inputs to hear sound. You might have to adjust the volume buttons on the A-board.

[Pasky]

I'll take a look at the A-boards then i guess.

[Pasky]

Will there be a test screen or anything if booted without a B board attached?

[Zets13]

I have found that the A + B board connection can be a real bitch. I certainly have problems getting them connected just right. Try taking the B-board out of its shell and connecting it to the A board that way. Make sure each connector is pushed in firmly.

Were they purchased as working? You probably already know this, but B-boards can potentially suicide if their battery is not replaced (or is removed and too much time elapses before installing a new one, of course).

[Pasky]

I bought 2 A boards from Undamned he said they were working as well as a B board. The other 2 B boards a member from here, also said they were working and came with an A board. I'll try again.

[Pasky]

Just tried with both cases off on all the boards, not getting anything. I wonder if it needs an extra ground or something I dont have wired up. Not all my jamma pins are connected. I check with my oscilloscope im not getting a sync signal or anything on the color lines other than garbage. I find it hard to believe all 3 boards would be duds. The battery on one was replaced by undamned and its labeled july 2014.



Am I missing anything obvious?

EDIT:

Just noticed I'm only getting 4.1V off the 5V rail now and 11.50V on the 12V rail when it's powered on. I've got 4.4V on the 5V rail and 11.52V on the 12V rail with the atomis wave hooked up. Could the power supply be bad? It's brand new and rated for more than enough amperage for the cps2.

[ChuChu Flamingo]

The board needs to have 5.0-5.10v(5.10 at most) at the jamma edge connector UNDER LOAD. That explains why it isn't working or no sound.

CPS2 is pretty power hungry due to how their are two boards to deal with it.

[Pasky]

Damn, so is it a faulty power supply or is this just not good enough for CPS-2? I was told this would work =/. Again, it's this one:

http://na.suzohapp.com/all_catalogs/pow ... 80-0210-00

[aoiddr]

It could be the power supply needs to have the 5V turned up higher.

But I think there might be something more obvious at play... the Jamma connector you're using is one of those cheap ones. The gauge of wire being used for the Ground/5V/12V lines might not be thick enough. They hide the fact the wire is thin by adding extra plastic around this tiny wire on the inside. And it can end up causing a large voltage drop. Link: http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15755

[Pasky]

Interesting, I'll put some smaller gauge wiring on those lines then. Is there a pot that adjusts the 5V output on these? I see an adjustment pot but no idea what it's for.

EDIT:

The pot does indeed adjust voltage. Now I remember why I originally said I got 5V, I only measured at the power supply. On the CPS-2 board its much lower. Your explanation of the wire gauges must be spot on. I'll grab some thicker wires tomorrow and get some good results I hope. Thanks!

[Pasky]

Awesome. I adjusted the pot a bit to see if it would boot and all 3 did. Obviously not gonna run it like this, just wanted to make sure they weren't duds. It must definitely be the wire thickness if I have 5V at the power supply and 4.1V at the cps-2 board. Thanks everyone for your help. Gonna fix up this cable sometime this week.

[system11]

It's completely normal to see a voltage drop across the loom and edge connector. In fact if you measure at a TTL chip close to the connector and one near the back of the board you'll often see a difference there too. You read 4.4v at the PCB, but the B board would have been lower than that. Measuring at the power supply isn't much use, if you put a smaller board on there now you'll probably find a reading above 5v. It's unclear from the photo, is there +5 on the upper and lower pins, same with the grounds? It's best to make sure all ground and +5 (including the set on the right) are connected because it spreads the load over the pins.

Best rule of thumb I've found is to adjust for 5.06v read at the PCB with a small lower draw board, although you'll still find some larger ones under-supplied.

[Pasky]

Problem I'm seeing with adjusting the voltage output (before changing wires) on the power supply is the 5V line is getting less and before it actually boots the game is the amount it takes to start the game up, puts the 12V rail over 13V and the fan is going at crazy speed.

The jamma connector does have the bottom pins and top pins (3,4,C,D) connected.

[Asure]

Turn off the power, and then cut the red wire for the +5V. Look at the copper strand..

Surely, it states 20+AWG on the outside of this wire, so it must be 20+ awg, right?..... There would not be any cost cutting with these chinese made wires now, would there?

Same applies to the crappy +12VDC wire, and the 'fat' grounds.
Throw those wires out, get better ones. Trust me: Those boards are not booting because they are not getting enough amps,all because some chinese guy decided to buy cheap '24AWG' wire..

Edit: Same problem here. 20% voltage drop is _not_ acceptable

[Pasky]

Ya, already stated I plan to replace them sometime this week. Gonna grab some 18 or 16 AWG wire for the power and ground lines.

[ChuChu Flamingo]

Well that is fortunate you got it to work. Just make sure your jamma harness has all their ground pins and 5v/12v like system11 stated.

While you can usually get away with only having two 5vs connected (pin 1/2 in your case) and not pin A/B on the underside, it is usually not a good idea as some jamma boards dont have those pins bridged /linked and go to different places. Moonwalker is a great example of this and won't have sound iirc. It also spreads the load around all four pins instead of coming from one/two.

[kowal]

Hi
This Jamma harrness is crap
on picture is exactly the same harness as your

Lol this jamma have smaller core than AWG 24 and is only one wire
is insulation only

CPS2 need 3-4A on +5V
AWG22 can send correct only 1A You need 4x AWG22 or 1x AWG16

You must buy AWG16 and perform bridge and solder it right





+5V and GND need - AWG 16
-5 need AWG 22
+12 need AWG 18

[system11]

Ugh - I see how, not only a crappy wire, but there's only one of them. All mine have a separate wire for each pin. Bob Roberts sells amazing JAMMA looms.

[kowal]

separate wire on each pin is good but only for JAMMA extension - cable is more flexible
(or if jamma connector is crimp molex type - then you can not do the bridge )
on extenstion still good solution is fingerboard on one end with connected pathway (for GND & power)

on cabient one thin wire and soldered pins to each other is more better
bridge sends power equally to all pins
it does not matter if the one pin on PCB is bad (if the PCB has some damage)
you still have a full transfer
This is a much better solution. Sega also soldered pins to each other