Cloning the Gamecube component cable

[Ghegs]

Thread split into Samsung F4500 plasma bargain for 480p sources.

[lev11]

This looks great, hoping to do the DVI mod, thank you Unseen.

[Josh128]

Just wondering if anyone else has gotten this to work, and if the OP is still developing it. Looks great, please continue the work. Did you or anyone else consider taking donations to fund a project, this is a really great idea and I think a lot of people (myself included) would be interested in purchasing kits if they were produced.

[mickcris]

Just wondering if anyone else has gotten this to work, and if the OP is still developing it. Looks great, please continue the work. Did you or anyone else consider taking donations to fund a project, this is a really great idea and I think a lot of people (myself included) would be interested in purchasing kits if they were produced.

Megalomaniac is working on making boards:
http://www.gc-forever.com/forums/viewto ... 150#p28150

[Unseen]

Just wondering if anyone else has gotten this to work, and if the OP is still developing it.

Nobody seems to have noticed it yet, but there is an updated code release for the GCVideo Lite boards (aka "analog version") that adds an SPDIF output. I'll add that to the DVI version eventually, but first I want to finish something else that will also require re-drawing the connection diagram and I'm too lazy to do that twice.

(also, I'm waiting until my soldering station is returned from repairs because I need to move the wire that connect sthe signal from controller 1 to the FPGA to a point that should offer a bit more reliability =) )

[lev11]

I noticed, and am hoping for SPDIF on the DVI version, but am currently having huge 'fun' trying to install Vivado so have not yet completed the current version.

[Unseen]

I noticed, and am hoping for SPDIF on the DVI version

=)

but am currently having huge 'fun' trying to install Vivado so have not yet completed the current version.

Isn't Vivado limited to 7-series chips, i.e. Artix/Kintex/Virtex 7/Zynq?

[Einzelherz]

I still don't get how the easiest implementation isn't to send the YUV signals to the RGB pins on the Multi-AV and to add a SNES connector (since they're easy to come by) to a COTS component cable from a Wii or PS2.

[lev11]

@unseen Maybe, but looks like I need to install Vivado to get the webpack fpga software that KNJN recommend, and I want to have a tinker and glean some knowledge in the process before hiding it away inside a gamecube, especially as I got stung for 17quid tax on customs import. (The customs fee might not apply if you ask them to send it as a gift (ssshhh, wink wink))

Also struggling to find small rotary 4-way and 9-way switches, what would happen if using dip type switch and 2 or 3 or more of the linedoubler mode, scanline mode and scanline strength selections were grounded at the same time?

@Einzelherz looks like you can, but you need to go for the analogue version, which is the gcvideo_lite kit of parts previously linked to. The DVI version looks simpler to me as its got a ready made standard connector on board.

[Unseen]

@unseen Maybe, but looks like I need to install Vivado to get the webpack fpga software that KNJN recommend

No, you'll need the ISE Design Suite. The Webpack version is an installation option of that winy little 6-8GB download.

Also struggling to find small rotary 4-way and 9-way switches, what would happen if using dip type switch and 2 or 3 or more of the linedoubler mode, scanline mode and scanline strength selections were grounded at the same time?

Scanline strength is priority-encoded, weakest setting wins. The two mode switches select "all disabled" if more than one connection is grounded.

Your other option would be to select some settings you can live with for now, refrain from installing any switches and wait until I've had the time to finish my current sinister plans which would remove all of the jumper settings in favor of an OSD controlled by the pad in port 1 (probably triggered by L+R+X+Y or some other unusual buttom combo). I'm not sure how soon this will happen though, currently I don't have much spare time to implement the remaining parts.

[Einzelherz]

@Einzelherz looks like you can, but you need to go for the analogue version, which is the gcvideo_lite kit of parts previously linked to. The DVI version looks simpler to me as its got a ready made standard connector on board.

Yeah you can. What I was talking about is I don't see why someone's not selling that as a "GameCubeRGB" type dealy complete. I'm not smart enough to understand the laundry list of parts to be able to do it myself.

[lev11]

@Einzelherz You can get RGB from a PAL Gamecube already. Looks like component/YUV via the digital out is getting closer to being possible with this thread, just the issue of sourcing the unique Digital AV Out connector, which could need MOQs to get it bespoked so someone would have to take a risk on manufacture.

@Unseen yes thanks, two errors from me not reading their site properly, didn't see the tabs, and didn't see the .tar download option further down. After several overnight failed web-installs I've grabbed the right one now and got it on no probs! Sounds like the jumpers are well implemented, nice one, also I like your sinister plan but how would the Pluto get any idea of controller button presses?

[Unseen]

also I like your sinister plan but how would the Pluto get any idea of controller button presses?

A single wire to a point on the board that carries the controller's data signal is enough to read the controller input. I haven't decided yet which point I'll recommend - it will probably be a trade-off between convenient soldering (some test pads are connected directly to the controller data line) and protection of the FPGA's input (connecting "behind" the protection components that shield the Flipper chip and thus also the FPGA from voltage spikes).

Unfortunately it's not that simple to suppress the input seen by the cube, so while the OSD is on-screen, whatever is running on the cube will see the same inputs. It's probably not much of a problem with the D-Pad in many games, but the Cube's main menu reacts to all three directional controls of the pad.

[lev11]

Just checked and all four controllers can take over main menu at same time, hoped first only would have control, you'll just have to not have A and B buttons for anything in the OSD so no changes are translated into the main menu. Or elegant/sinister suppression...

[Unseen]

you'll just have to not have A and B buttons for anything in the OSD so no changes are translated into the main menu.

Yes - my plan was to use just X and Y and keep away from A/B (menu selections) and Start (pause). If you want to use it in the main menu you could just switch over to the options menu - although the option selection would still be moved by the D-pad, the X and Y buttons are ignored and no settings are actually changed unless A is used.

That's still some time away though, so don't get too excited. =) Currently the "OSD" only shows a hard-coded grid pattern for checking if there is enough contrast between the dimmed background and a white overlay.

[Josh128]

@Einzelherz You can get RGB from a PAL Gamecube already.

Just not 31KHz/480p RGB, right?

[lev11]

No worries, I'm not waiting, just slow at tinkering, am looking for dip type switches for hard wiring in.

[lev11]

Just not 31KHz/480p RGB, right?

Yes, 480i/60Hz or 576i/50.

[Einzelherz]

@Einzelherz You can get RGB from a PAL Gamecube already.

Which is great if you live in PAL land. Not so much in NTSC country.

[mvsfan]

has anyone taken apart a pal gamecube to see whats different from an ntsc one? could rgb be added to the ntsc one by adding the missing parts?

[Unseen]

has anyone taken apart a pal gamecube to see whats different from an ntsc one?

Yes, many people have - the AV encoder chip is different. The PAL cubes use an "AVE P-DOL", the NTSC cubes use an "AVE N-DOL". The first PAL version outputs composite and RGB, the NTSC version composite and S-Video.

could rgb be added to the ntsc one by adding the missing parts?

It is probably possible to connect an AVE P and the supporting components it requires to an NTSC cube, but it would still be limited to 15kHz modes.

[mvsfan]

well if you swapped that chip with one from a broken pal gamecube would that chip have to run at 50hz or could it run fine at 60?

Id really like a rgb gamecube because of the gameboy player.

[Unseen]

well if you swapped that chip with one from a broken pal gamecube would that chip have to run at 50hz or could it run fine at 60?

As far as I know, both video encoders have no problems working with either 50 or 60 Hz. Many PAL games on the Gamecube have a screen on startup that asks if you want to run at 50 or 60Hz.

[RGB0b]

As far as I know, both video encoders have no problems working with either 50 or 60 Hz. Many PAL games on the Gamecube have a screen on startup that asks if you want to run at 50 or 60Hz.

I've tested a PAL GameCube outputting RGB with NTSC games via a mod chip and they all seemed to work fine. Also, maybe it was just the one PAL unit I tested, but it seemed RGB from the digital out port (via a modded component cable) looked better then analog RGB on both the NTSC consoles and the same PAL console. If that's the case with most PAL consoles, this component cable clone will be a huge help for people in all regions, for all outputs (analog and digital). I wish I had access to a bunch of PAL consoles for more testing, but sadly I only had that one.

[lev11]

I'm not sure if I can recommend the removal of the DV connector - it does free up a bit of space to add a custom video connector, but unsoldering its (many) ground pins from the board was rather annoying.

This connector is looking tricky to remove, had a bit of a go with solder mop, and with a de-solder pump, (but the tip was too big), I might have to revert to plan B and get the side cutters at it from the top side of the board. What kit did you use to unsolder this connector?

[Unseen]

This connector is looking tricky to remove, had a bit of a go with solder mop, and with a de-solder pump, (but the tip was too big), I might have to revert to plan B and get the side cutters at it from the top side of the board. What kit did you use to unsolder this connector?

I used some special solder with a very low melting point (ChipQuik). It is mainly marketed for SMD removal, but it can also be used on throughole parts like that connector by using a large blob of it and moving it over the pins with the iron until the solder fillings in all of them have melted and the connector can be pulled out. You don't need to remove the original solder fillings for this to work, a mixture of the original solder and the low-melt stuff still has a sufficiently low melting point for it to work. Just make sure that you pull on the connector with a pair of pliers and not your fingers - since the metal shield is soldered to the ground layer, it will heat up too. Afterwards the pads still need to be cleaned, but since they are filled with a low-melt alloy it's quite easy to do with a standard de-solder pump and there are no more pins blocking its tip.

Unfortunately that stuff quite expensive. You can in principle use the same process (heating everything at the same time through a large blob of solder) with standard solder, but since you need a much higher temperature it's more stressful for the PCB. I also don't recommend doing it this way since you need a rather large blob of solder to cover all pins and when you pull the connector (or more likely: try to lever it out bit by bit with a screwdriver) you are working quite close to a large blob of molten metal that is ready to splash around at the first sudden movement. This is actually how I removed the connector from the first Cube I worked on - I never managed to remove the solder from all of the ground pads even after the connector was out and the PCB was discolored slightly due to the heat.

[lev11]

The connector is now out: http://imgur.com/sKlPKq5
Chip Quik is pretty good stuff, though I used a little too much of the flux and the low melt solder, so it took a while to clean-up.
I grabbed the connector in a small vice, with a wooden peg on each jaw to prevent heat spreading into the vice, then managed to lift the board right off in one go.

[Einzelherz]

After rereading all of this I'm still confused about which I would get to accomplish my goal. All I'm interested in is sending an analog component YUV signal to the standard multi-av port using the unused R, G, and B pins. That way I can splice a commonplace multi-av male onto a Wii component cable. I'm not interested in hdmi or filters or displayport complexity. Would I use the digital or analog version?

[Unseen]

I'm not interested in hdmi or filters or displayport complexity. Would I use the digital or analog version?

Analog

[Lawfer]

It is possible to get Digital RGB out of the US Gamecube, you would need to mod the cable though. You can even get 480p by modding it to output RGBHV.

A few Gamecube games dont have any 480p support, some of them are:

Evolution Worlds
Resident Evil 0
Resident Evil
Resident Evil 2
Resident Evil 3: Nemesis
Resident Evil: Code Veronica X
Killer 7
Lost Kingdoms
Lost Kingdoms II