gscartsw / gscartsw_lite / gcompsw switches support thread

[yarayar]

I received the gcomp today. I have two systems hooked up so far, and they work well. When I turn them both off though, the green light stays on and the screen flickers. Is this reason for concern? The 2 systems hooked up are Saturn with HD retrovision cables and Super NT with Analogue DAC.

[superg]

I received the gcomp today. I have two systems hooked up so far, and they work well. When I turn them both off though, the green light stays on and the screen flickers. Is this reason for concern? The 2 systems hooked up are Saturn with HD retrovision cables and Super NT with Analogue DAC.

Most likely your Analogue DAC has something different from logic low on the sync line when it's off. It's safe to ignore.

[kerframil]

Hello, all. After receiving my gscartsw today, I set about testing it with everything that I have and encountered two issues.

Firstly, my XRGB-Mini detects no signal from an original, unmodified, PC Engine - as used with this cable. However, that is only the case where the gscartsw is in the chain. The cable works well otherwise.

Secondly, the XRGB initially detected no signal from a Mega Drive (model 1), as used with a cable sold by retro_console_accessories (long before retro-access.com existed), which was described as "Megadrive 1 stereo RGB SCART with boosted sync". Again, the cable works if attached directly from the console to the XRGB. Fortunately, I have a different RGB SCART cable, as was originally sold with the Mega Drive itself. As it happens, that one works - with or without the gscartsw in the chain. Eventually, I realised that I could make the retro_console_accessories cable work by toggling on the first dip switch.

Regarding the PC Engine, is there anything that I can realistically do or am I going to be needing a mod of some kind? Also, can someone help me understand why I had to enable sync regeneration for the retro_console_accessories MD cable to work with the gscartsw, but not the other?

Finally, It occured to me that I should test a different SCART cable for connecting the gscartsw to the XRGB. Unfortunately, the only one that I have spare turned out to be broken so I won't be able to do that until sometime next week.

[superg]

Firstly, my XRGB-Mini detects no signal from an original, unmodified, PC Engine - as used with this cable. However, that is only the case where the gscartsw is in the chain. The cable works well otherwise.

PC Engine / TurboGrafx is known to have issues. Two configurations which are proven to work are db GrafxBooster and voultar mods. The other modifications, only god knows what's inside. My answer is that something is out of specs in that amplified cable.

Secondly, the XRGB initially detected no signal from a Mega Drive (model 1), as used with a cable sold by retro_console_accessories (long before retro-access.com existed), which was described as "Megadrive 1 stereo RGB SCART with boosted sync". Again, the cable works if attached directly from the console to the XRGB. Fortunately, I have a different RGB SCART cable, as was originally sold with the Mega Drive itself. As it happens, that one works - with or without the gscartsw in the chain. Eventually, I realised that I could make the retro_console_accessories cable work by toggling on the first dip switch.

Boosted sync is your issue here. It's recommended to use cables without sync strippers inside. Sync regeneration was created exactly for this kind of issues.

[kerframil]

PC Engine / TurboGrafx is known to have issues. Two configurations which are proven to work are db GrafxBooster and voultar mods. The other modifications, only god knows what's inside. My answer is that something is out of specs in that amplified cable.

I see.

Boosted sync is your issue here. It's recommended to use cables without sync strippers inside. Sync regeneration was created exactly for this kind of issues.

Let me see whether I understand this correctly. The retro_console_accessories cable that I have…

• taps csync from the console
• amplifies the csync signal (hence, "boosted")
• doesn't properly attenuate said signal

On the other hand, my other cable is trouble-free because, regardless of whether it uses cvideo or csync, it probably contains no amplifier. Is that right?

[superg]

Let me see whether I understand this correctly. The retro_console_accessories cable that I have…

• taps csync from the console
• amplifies the csync signal (hence, "boosted")
• doesn't properly attenuate said signal

On the other hand, my other cable is trouble-free because, regardless of whether it uses cvideo or csync, it probably contains no amplifier. Is that right?

Not exactly. Usually it takes sync from composite video and "cleans" it with LM1881 or equivalent chip, hence the "CSYNC" in the name. It looks like it's an early cable which is not manufactured anymore.
Usually there is nothing to boost if you take CSYNC directly from the console, that needs to be attenuated to the correct level with resistor, not boosted.
In general, if we speak quality, you don't want any extra circuits / processing / cable length. Keep your cables short whenever possible, prefer packapunch from RGC or minicoax from retro-access and make sure the cables don't have active components inside (only if that's absolutely needed in PC Engine case). You will get less latency and you will get better image quality.

[kerframil]

Not exactly. Usually it takes sync from composite video and "cleans" it with LM1881 or equivalent chip, hence the "CSYNC" in the name. It looks like it's an early cable which is not manufactured anymore.
Usually there is nothing to boost if you take CSYNC directly from the console, that needs to be attenuated to the correct level with resistor, not boosted.

The Mega Drive has a dedicated pin for sync though, doesn't it. I can't think of any good reason for Drew to have ever manufactured a cable that uses the composite video pin for that purpose. But who knows - maybe she did and I bought it unawares. Either way, it's a turkey and I will be disposing of it in in short order.

In general, if we speak quality, you don't want any extra circuits / processing / cable length. Keep your cables short whenever possible, prefer packapunch from RGC or minicoax from retro-access and make sure the cables don't have active components inside (only if that's absolutely needed in PC Engine case). You will get less latency and you will get better image quality.

Roger that. Thanks.

[Downcry]

This is mainly a question for the designer:

Could these switches be configured to load a specific OSSC profile whenever an input is selected?
I don’t believe an interface for this exists yet, but maybe it could be done with a USB IR blaster or something.

[Downcry]

Now that I think of it, with the OSSC being open source and all, you could probably design a switch with an integrated OSSC.

[superg]

This is mainly a question for the designer:

Could these switches be configured to load a specific OSSC profile whenever an input is selected?
I don’t believe an interface for this exists yet, but maybe it could be done with a USB IR blaster or something.

I don't immediately understand what is needed from the switch side in order to do what you're asking.

There is an EXT header which can be used to query information on active port.
If you're electronics savvy you can design a simple board which will process this information and possible control some external device.

[Downcry]

This is mainly a question for the designer:

Could these switches be configured to load a specific OSSC profile whenever an input is selected?
I don’t believe an interface for this exists yet, but maybe it could be done with a USB IR blaster or something.

I don't immediately understand what is needed from the switch side in order to do what you're asking.

There is an EXT header which can be used to query information on active port.
If you're electronics savvy you can design a simple board which will process this information and possible control some external device.

It would require two things I think:
1 - I would need to know whenever the active source switches
2 - I would need to know which source (1-8) is active after a switch

I suppose if I could poll #2 I wouldn’t need #1.

[mxpxpxpx]

Hello, I got the Gcompsw from you a month ago, and it was working great till now. I have it paired with the Retrotink2X and none of my systems show on the screen. I get a power light, but nothing else. I have tried the systems with just the retrotink and they work, they only quit when using the gcompsw. I have tried different component cables and both outputs, and same results. Is there anything I can do to try and fix it, like a firmware update? Or should I send it back for repair? I am from the USA (Georgia). Thank you for your help.

[superg]

Hello, I got the Gcompsw from you a month ago, and it was working great till now. I have it paired with the Retrotink2X and none of my systems show on the screen. I get a power light, but nothing else. I have tried the systems with just the retrotink and they work, they only quit when using the gcompsw. I have tried different component cables and both outputs, and same results. Is there anything I can do to try and fix it, like a firmware update? Or should I send it back for repair? I am from the USA (Georgia). Thank you for your help.

Does the switch work without retrotink?
Which consoles did you use?

[mxpxpxpx]

Hello, I got the Gcompsw from you a month ago, and it was working great till now. I have it paired with the Retrotink2X and none of my systems show on the screen. I get a power light, but nothing else. I have tried the systems with just the retrotink and they work, they only quit when using the gcompsw. I have tried different component cables and both outputs, and same results. Is there anything I can do to try and fix it, like a firmware update? Or should I send it back for repair? I am from the USA (Georgia). Thank you for your help.

Does the switch work without retrotink?
Which consoles did you use?

Hello, Yes I have tried it by its self and I still get no image or sound. I have tried the Sega Master System, Genesis, SNES, Super Famicom, and NES. I am using HD Retrovision cables. Thank you again for the help.

[superg]

Hello, Yes I have tried it by its self and I still get no image or sound. I have tried the Sega Master System, Genesis, SNES, Super Famicom, and NES. I am using HD Retrovision cables. Thank you again for the help.

You can send it for the repair but you will have to cover the return shipping and optionally the repair costs in the event it's not a manufacturing defect. Usually switches don't die by itself. Also I don't guarantee a successfull repair because if the switch was misused and Altera is dead, I can't repair such a damage. Unfortunately there is no way to tell what is faulty until I diagnose it here. I will PM you my address.

[PersianImm0rtal]

Today I tested my PS1 with the gscart and it does not work. I get a scrabbled image. How do i get the ps1 to work with the gscart?

[superg]

Today I tested my PS1 with the gscart and it does not work. I get a scrabbled image. How do i get the ps1 to work with the gscart?

PlayStation is quite straightforward. Try first DIP switch on, if that doesn't help, replace a SCART cable. Get something from RGC or retro access. You can go ahead either with composite sync or sync on luma version. Don't get csync version cable.

[DeepThoughts]

I have the earlier version gscart with the hd15 as the second output. I'd like to run that into my Sony PVM that's expecting a 75ohm signal. Does the hd15 output need to be modified to work safely? I know the scart connector output would work for this, but I have another display in mind for that.

[superg]

I have the earlier version gscart with the hd15 as the second output. I'd like to run that into my Sony PVM that's expecting a 75ohm signal. Does the hd15 output need to be modified to work safely? I know the scart connector output would work for this, but I have another display in mind for that.

PVM's sync voltage range is wide so I don't think you need anything extra. Just get VGA->BNC cable if you haven't already.

[DeepThoughts]

Here's a bit more information on the PVM input if it makes a difference. I know these monitors are pretty robust, but I'd like to stay within the specs if at all possible.

RGB: 0.7V p-p +/- 6dB
CSync: 4V p-p +/- 6dB

[Naudriel]

Hi! Just received the gcomp switch which came just in a zipper bag and without the universal power adaptor Gscart switch I got previously came in a separate box for extra protection as well as included the power adaptor. So a bit disappointed with how the gcomp arrived, but I understand such things can happen. Just can't test and use it for now.

Can you please specify the technical characteristics of the power adaptor so that I can buy one? Don't want to guess and risk frying the whole thing.

[PersianImm0rtal]

Today I tested my PS1 with the gscart and it does not work. I get a scrabbled image. How do i get the ps1 to work with the gscart?

PlayStation is quite straightforward. Try first DIP switch on, if that doesn't help, replace a SCART cable. Get something from RGC or retro access. You can go ahead either with composite sync or sync on luma version. Don't get csync version cable.

Thank you for your support superg! I took a push pin tack to move the 1st Dip switch down, and retested and it still didn't work. However, I decided to go ahead and test with a composite cable, and the PS1 displayed fine. So when I put the Scart cable back in, it magically started working again, and I put the the dip switch back to its original position. So all along it must have been the scart cable being seated incorrectly. Thanks anyways!

[superg]

Today I tested my PS1 with the gscart and it does not work. I get a scrabbled image. How do i get the ps1 to work with the gscart?

PlayStation is quite straightforward. Try first DIP switch on, if that doesn't help, replace a SCART cable. Get something from RGC or retro access. You can go ahead either with composite sync or sync on luma version. Don't get csync version cable.

Thank you for your support superg! I took a push pin tack to move the 1st Dip switch down, and retested and it still didn't work. However, I decided to go ahead and test with a composite cable, and the PS1 displayed fine. So when I put the Scart cable back in, it magically started working again, and I put the the dip switch back to its original position. So all along it must have been the scart cable being seated incorrectly. Thanks anyways!

Could be just a connectivity issue, I've seen some 3rd party playstation multi out cables which are somewhat tight.
Glad it works!

[mikehaggar]

I have a question...I believe I have a V3 GSCARTSW that I bought in about 2015...

I have all my RGB consoles running into this switch, then outputting to a component transcoder, then going into my TV and all is well. I have just started streaming so I would like to now finally utilize the second output to take RGB via VGA out and into my capture setup. I tried running the cable though and I'm getting nothing but a black screen.

Is there something I'm doing wrong? Both my capture card as well as the computer monitor I tried showed a black screen, but not sure if this is correct as taking RGB somewhere via VGA is something I've never done before.

[superg]

I have a question...I believe I have a V3 GSCARTSW that I bought in about 2015...

I have all my RGB consoles running into this switch, then outputting to a component transcoder, then going into my TV and all is well. I have just started streaming so I would like to now finally utilize the second output to take RGB via VGA out and into my capture setup. I tried running the cable though and I'm getting nothing but a black screen.

Is there something I'm doing wrong? Both my capture card as well as the computer monitor I tried showed a black screen, but not sure if this is correct as taking RGB somewhere via VGA is something I've never done before.

That should just work but most people are using VGA with VGA 2 BNC cable to PVM monitor.
Try to switch CV/HV toggle and see if that helps, that changes composite VGA sync to hv VGA sync.

[superg]

Hi! Just received the gcomp switch which came just in a zipper bag and without the universal power adaptor Gscart switch I got previously came in a separate box for extra protection as well as included the power adaptor. So a bit disappointed with how the gcomp arrived, but I understand such things can happen. Just can't test and use it for now.

Can you please specify the technical characteristics of the power adaptor so that I can buy one? Don't want to guess and risk frying the whole thing.

Resolved via email

[Napola76]

Hello SuperG
What’s the procedure in getting a repair done to a gscarts?

I can’t locate an email on the official website

Thanks

[parodius]

Alright, I managed to snap my MicroUSB connector off, while installing a 3D printed enclosure.

If I want to solder in a wired barrel plug to replace it, it looks like the easiest place to solder the +5V is on the F1 component, on the side closest to the MicroUSB, right ?

[superg]

Alright, I managed to snap my MicroUSB connector off, while installing a 3D printed enclosure.

If I want to solder in a wired barrel plug to replace it, it looks like the easiest place to solder the +5V is on the F1 component, on the side closest to the MicroUSB, right ?

Yes, that F1 is +. Find some ground but make sure you use +5V to power it.

[parodius]

Yes, that F1 is +. Find some ground but make sure you use +5V to power it.

Thanks.
Sure. I will use the same 5V power brick, which has a barrel plug to MicroUSB adapter.

Edit : repaired, thanks.